General Consensus on Chain Adjustment

[HappyMan]

I know we've discussed this but I can't seem to locate it.  I know I'm being lazy so accept my apology in advance.

There seems to be a difference of opinion on whether the adjustment via the "book" on it's side stand is correct.  Some have felt it best to load the bike down and check it.

Have we decided as a group which is best?  When I measured tonight I was within spec loaded and just out of spec on it's side stand.

[paulie]

the way the shop manual says(with bike loaded) just seems to make more sense to me.

if you do it on the sidestand, wouldnt the chain be far too loose once the swingarm is compressed by the load? i guess thats my thinking  

im trying to come up with a good way to check chain tension while i'm on the bike. sure, i can reach down a wiggle it, but i cant conceive of a way to actually measure the freeplay to see if its in spec or not. seems like its a two-person affair until i can figure that part out.

[iansoady]

The manual doesn't say do it loaded - the handbook says on the centre stand, the workshop manual on the prop stand (depending on year I believe). The problem with doing it on the side stand is that depending where you have the pre-load set, what load is on the bike etc the slack will change.

The ideal would be to do it on the wheels and fully loaded so the sprockets and s/a spindle are all in line, then to check what that turns into when it's on the centre stand for ease in the future.

Oh, and Paulie, it tightens up when there's load on it rather than slackening.

[Chris Canning]

Do a test for yourself,sit on the bike,lean down and check the chain tension,now get a passenger on the back and check again,if it's right one up,it'll be like a banjo string two up.

I had a steep learning curve when bought my first tiger in 99,checked the chain with me on it, fine,set off for the SoF,for the midlanders here got as far as Gaydon services(not very) way to many vibes leaned down felt the chain it was solid.

I find the book funny,full of legal jargon,don't blame us stuff,and the bit about the chain,is just plain wrong.

[paulie]

well i concede.  got my facts wrong..  :oops:

i will now shut up and sit in the corner to watch this thread

[katoomon]

You can determine this yourself for any chain driven bike. Assuming that sprockets, chain, bushings, and bearings are in decent to new condition:

Back the shock preload off to 0.  Connect a tie down from one side of your swing arm, over the seat (wide strap, and protect seat with a blanket) and to the other side of the swing arm. Compress your suspension (tightnening the tie down as you go) until the countershaft, swing arm pivot, and rear axle, all line up.  Hold this position. This position is your greatest drive chain extension; the greatest distance between the final drive sprockets.

Adjust your chain in this position to nearly-zero slack (street) to little play (off-road), BUT, no tension. Spin your wheel in this position to ensure there is no tension or binding due to a slighlty out of round sprocket etc. Remove the tie down, and note how much play your chain has in some repeatable position (i.e. centerstand down, on a workstand, kickstand down, etc). In this position, use your chain guide, or note where your chain will just about touch the swing arm when you test the free play of the chain. The amount of free play in your chain in this repeatable test position is the minimum amount of chain slack for your bike.

If your chain is any tighter than the free slack you determine using the above method, then your chain will bind when your rear suspension travels through the max extension; that is when countershaft, swingarm pivot, and rear axle are aligned.  If your chain binds, it will affect handling, performance, accelerate wear, or parts will stretch(not that Stretch)/bend/break/fail.

Adjust it, lube it, ride it.

[HappyMan]

Very nice!  I will definitely do that.  Thanks Katoom!!