Getting ready for Alaska trip, need some help

[mrk00k]

I'm trying to get my bike ready for an Alaska trip next month. I have a few mechanical issues I need to iron out before the trip.  Just to let you know my experience, this is the first motorcycle that I have owned. Last weekend I replaced the throttle cable and that was the first thing I really ever did. I'm pretty good mechanically, just not with motorcycles (yet...)

1. I think I should replace the coolant. Is it really necessary to use the triumph coolant. Can I just pick up something else at local auto store? Anything I need specifically.

2. I think I'm gonna get a new chain just to be on the safe side. I don't know much about chains. I noticed one mentioned in the cross-reference guide. So can I just use any size 530 114 link chain? Does it need to be X-ring or is O-ring ok?

3. I think my left fork seal might be blown (see picture). If I let go of handlebars the bike leans left. I know nothing about forks really. Do I need to buy the triumph fork seal? do I need anything else also? should I replace fork oil now too? Is this something I should just take to the dealer for?

The nearest dealer to me is like 90 miles away and I don't like them very much from previous dealings with them. Anyone know of a good dealer in Southern California?

Sorry if my questions are stoopid and feel free to answer me and talk to me like the inexperienced idiot I am. I'm sure I'll be posting more in the future. I've got some farkling ideas you all might appreciate.

Thanks in advance! This site is great, I've already gotten alot from it.

[John Stenhouse]

I changed the coolant in mine for something that wasn't Triumph, no problems so far.
X ring or O ring is what you can afford
Can't tell from that photo wether you've blown a seal. Have you got oil on the forks under the sleeves on the fork legs? If so you have probably blown a seal

[Mustang]

I would replace the chain with an EK chain from dennis kirk  $114
Part# 110019120
530 SRX Grand Prix Series Chain   it's an x ring
if this is for a steamer they have a JT steel rear sprocket also Part# 80530548
Sprocket
and the front sprocket you can get at sprocket specialists  #598-18 29 bucks
you are going to need a chain tool also  Motion Pro makes a real nice one that can break the chain to the correct size (# of links ) and can also press the side plate on and the same tool can also install the rivet type master link . Keep in mind that the tool will cost you a 100 bucks , so you can also have a bike shop install but what fun would that be .
I suggest picking up a good manual , either the factory book or Haynes

Do NOT attempt a trip to AK with a chain that is not brand new as the dirt and gravel and # of miles will destroy a used chain pretty fast .

Like John said if there is no oil on the outside of the forks then you don't have a blown seal . I woulsd however replace the fork oil with new for a trip of this magnitude ! And yes you can put in any fork oil , use a 10 wt. or go with 15 wt if you want to stiffen up the front end a little .

Coolant I use good ol Prestone anti freeze mixed 50 / 50

[blacktiger]

3.  If I let go of handlebars the bike leans left.

Could be something to do with the cable wrapped around the forks in the (bad) photo.

[mrk00k]

Could be something to do with the cable wrapped around the forks in the (bad) photo.

Haha, yeah, thanks. but thats just the turn signal wire I think. I just took those off. so the wire was hanging weird.

Sorry about the bad pic. What I was trying to show was the sortof upward pointing half moon shaped black splotch near the top. I guess it is hard to see. So what do I do for blown seal? I looked at parts on www.bikebandit.com (http://www.bikebandit.com) Do I just need to get a new fork seal and replace that?

Thanks for the advice and factory manual should be here in a few days.

[FullMonte]

Before my Moab trip I got a new DID 114 link chain and JT sprockets from sprocketcenter.com.  It arrived in 3 days and they were very helpful on the phone.  I would recommend them since everything arrives in one box for one price.  BTW, I'm taking my skidplate to Paul's house tonight so he can get started on fabricating yours.  You owe me a beer.

[mrk00k]

Before my Moab trip I got a new DID 114 link chain and JT sprockets from sprocketcenter.com.  It arrived in 3 days and they were very helpful on the phone.  I would recommend them since everything arrives in one box for one price.  BTW, I'm taking my skidplate to Paul's house tonight so he can get started on fabricating yours.  You owe me a beer.

Thanks. sprocketcenter looks good. good prices too. Thanks for the skidplate thing too. I'll buy you a beer anytime you're out here in Cali...or you could meet me up in Alaska...

[John Stenhouse]

So that's two Tiggers in Alaska in June then :lol:

[JasonS]

Consider a chain oiler. With the amount of dirt you will be seeing it you could have the cost of a chain, and have a oiler keeping  things lubed up.

Take your tools and tighten every bolt you can get your wrench on.... IE make sure everything is tight.. the vibrations form all the gravel will have its affect..

Do you have protective grates over the radiator and oil coolers?

Have a great trip!!

[zombie]

keep your chain clean and your all set ,  and have fun.
I did minimal prep on my bike apart from an oil change and new tires and had no problems at all on the way out or bike form alaska

[mrk00k]

I got a few more things I need to do before I go. Got a few more questions...


How much coolant does this bike take roughly? Doesn't say in manual.

Do you really need the special tool to do the valve check? The one that holds the valves open?

Do you think its ok to do the 12K service at 14K?

[Stretch]

My manuals says the coolant capacity is 2.8 liters.

The valve tool isn't required to check the valve clearance, only to remove and replace the shims.  And even then, it isn't
completely necessary, as you can always just remove the cams once you've taken all the measurements.

If your bike hasn't been subjected to lots of long, high-speed runs, your 12,000 mile valve clearances are most likely within spec, so only
a couple thousand more miles shouldn't be detrimental.  But do have it done as soon as you're able.