Battery goes down at High RPM´s (bike dead in the highway)

[Stretch]

I should have mine back together by then also.

[Stretch]

Okay, I've installed a brand-new stator and brand-new RR.


But this aint it...

Others have reported good service from their ElectroSport stators, but I had to install this while parked on a grassy spot beside a country road (with the sun going down, of course).  That meant cutting wires, crimping terminals, installing the connector, and glopping silicone sealer around the wires to get a seal where they come out of the alternator cover.


And here's my ElectroSport stator after having run about one hour with a fried regulator / rectifier...

Maybe not totally cooked, but it obviously did run pretty warm.  It tested okay with the Ohmmeter (not shorted), but it's output was poor, even with a brand-new RR.


Here's the stator from Rick's.  Note the terminals, connector, and rubber grommet built in to the wires, just like the Triumph item...

No cutting, splicing, etc.  Plug-and-play, as they say.




Here's Sasquatch's Voltage Fix (large black and yellow / black wires) plugged in to the RR, running straight to the battery.  Ignore the scorch marks.  I used heat-shrink tubing to insulate the soldered connections, and I overdid it with the heat gun.


To remove the Regulator / Recifier in it's factory form, you have to remove the battery, battery box, all side panels, and then lift the tank to access the lower bolt with 18 inches worth of socket extensions.  No thanks.

I made a new Regulator / Rectifier bracket that turns the RR around so the bolts are accessible by merely removing the left side panels.  Two bolts, two plugs, bada-bing-bada-boom you're done.


As per Swamper650's suggestion:  To ensure the RR is properly grounded (helping it to run cooler), I made a ground wire, running it from the body of the RR straight to the Negative battery terminal with 10-gauge wire.

All terminals and connections were cleaned and treated with silicone dielectric grease prior to installation.

The results:  The bike idles at 12.3 volts (1100 RPM), picks up to 13 volts at 1500 RPM, and by 2500 RPM the bike is making 14.6 volts, where it stays throughout the rest of the tachometer range.  After an hour-and-a-half ride this afternoon, all wires were cool to the touch and the RR was only slightly warm.

So in my case, the cure was to replace both the stator and RR with brand-new, never-run parts at the same time, cleaning and greasing all connections, and installing Sasquatch's Voltage Fix.

I do hope this ends my charging system problems.  I rode around for about an hour and a half this afternoon, with everything remaining stable.

Good Luck and Happy Trails.

[AndyM]

I replaced the stock Triumph stator with one from Electrosport about a month ago. This weekend I'll be replacing that with one from ricks as the Esport stator doesn't seem to be up to the task.

Stretch
How is the output with the rick's installed?

[Stretch]

I don't have an ammeter, so I don't know the wattage or amperage, but it's running at 14.6 volts above 2500 RPM... a full volt higher than it ever did with the stock charging system.  I'm a happy camper.

I would recommend replacing both the stator and RR at the same time to anyone having charging system trouble.  I went back and forth between one and the other a couple times, and all that accomplished was to fry the newer part each time.  I actually spent more money on parts doing the see-saw method than if I had just taken a bite and bought both at once.

As I wrote in an earlier post... the stator and RR in a car's alternator are housed together, so when the alternator is replaced or rebuilt, everything is replaced at the same time, eliminating the see-saw effect.  

The stator was $140 and the RR was $120, with free shipping    .  With prices from Rick's so much lower than the Triumph parts, why not replace both at once?

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

[Mustang]

As I wrote in an earlier post... the stator and RR in a car's alternator are housed together,

or a manly Steamer Alternator ,  :shock:

[german]

Gentlemen,

I have a question, apparently my bike has a current leak, I will appreciate your help in order to know DCV value measured in your bike between batt(+) and fuse box fuse 5 Starter cte, normally needs to be less than 0.2 dcv, I am measuring 3.2 dcv.

Thanks for your help.

[Tom Herold]

My new to me 05 is just over 24k and starting to get a bit testy.

I'm running the Kuryakin LED battery monitor and have developed issues with the battery draining over time.  I've also noticed the headlight and tail light both have a flutter to them at idle, and the voltage keeps dropping off to below 10 at higher RPM's.

I'll be calling Ricks for a new RR and stator on Monday morning and will do the Sasquatch mod while I'm in there.  Hopefully I can get expedited shipping so they can get it to me before Christmas.

I'm doing the chain, sprockets, and slapping on a new set of Conti Trail Attacks over the Christmas weekend too, it's going to be a new machine when I'm done!!

I'd rather be riding than wrenching, but at least Im wrenching in my garage and not on the side of the road somewhere!

[atokad]

Sasquatch Mods, Stretch's Engineering, Stators-RR's-Fuses...Hell you sure your bike is even a Triumph anymore?

I have not had nor done any electrical mods on my 2006 w/10,000 miles on it.  The bike is stock yet (in electrical terms) other than Triumph heated grips and a Garmin Zumo 550 direct wired.  I put it on a Battery Tender Junior whenever it's not being ridden.

I go on long 300+ miles rides, alone,  into the mountains on some pretty desolate roads that don't have cell service.  Am I playing with fire here by not doing some of these mods?  What is the minimum I should consider doing? Oh, and I really suck at voltmeters, amp meters or whatever meters.

Think I'll get a SPOT...soon.

[Stretch]

The vast majority of folks here are running completely stock bikes, and in tens of thousands of miles have experienced no trouble whatsoever.  But based on my experiences detailed in this thread, I now hope for the best and prepare for the worst.

I carry a spare stator and RR on long trips, and have a Datel voltmeter installed in the dash for real-time voltage readings.  When the voltmeter displays trouble (less than 12 volts at highway speeds), I can swap the charging system out in about an hour.

Or I may never have trouble with it again.

[Advwannabe]

Wow, thanks to all for a comphrehensive and elegant solution to this problem.

I'm lining up to do an IBA ride on Tigger next weekend, too late to have the parts handy. Wish me luck.

I'd have soldiered on Blithely but a friend with a 1050 Sprint has had this problem recently, which of course got me thinking and worrying.

Cheers

[german]

Hola,
Problem solved, I have found the charging problem back of the fuse box, the wiring between  the reg / fuse box  was more warm than the normal temp, the problem was the connection (wiring degraded) to the main fuse bus.

I rewire the charging sys.

Thanks for all your comments, please let me know if you have a similar problem.