Look What the Brown Truck Brought Me Today!

[JetdocX]

new copper valve seats! :D



It's sitting on my dining room table.  Why, yes, ladies, I am single. :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

[Mustang]

That's borderline pornographic ! :D  

[JetdocX]

Nah, but I'll not take a photo of the stain I put in my riding pants when I ride the bike again. :shock:

[Mudhen]

That's borderline pornographic ! :D  

x2.

A piece of art.

The closest I have to that is a clutch pushrod in our silverware drawer...

Edit:  I'm assuming the copper valve seats will prevent them from receding again??

[Cos]

Issaboot freakin time yo.

[JetdocX]

That's borderline pornographic ! :D  

x2.

A piece of art.

The closest I have to that is a clutch pushrod in our silverware drawer...

Edit:  I'm assuming the copper valve seats will prevent them from receding again??

I sure hope so!  We'll see.  I will have some idea at the next valve clearace check.

[JetdocX]

Head is on and torqued.  Now i'm in reassembly mode!

I noticed that two of the cylinder jackets moved easily with the pistons (cyl's 1 and 2).  I also noticed the coolant remaining in the cylinder cavities leaked into the sump.  Drained the sump, but now I'm worried about the cylinder jacket base seals leaking.  In fact they were leaking without the cylinder head putting pressure on them, so I hope they seal for me now.

Anyone been that far in who can tell me what the seals are like for the cylinder jackets?

Mustang????? :?

[Mustang]

Head is on and torqued.  Now i'm in reassembly mode!

I noticed that two of the cylinder jackets moved easily with the pistons (cyl's 1 and 2).  I also noticed the coolant remaining in the cylinder cavities leaked into the sump.  Drained the sump, but now I'm worried about the cylinder jacket base seals leaking.  In fact they were leaking without the cylinder head putting pressure on them, so I hope they seal for me now.

Anyone been that far in who can tell me what the seals are like for the cylinder jackets?

Mustang????? :?

Your not going to like what I have to say but here goes ................

Take it back apart and get some hylomar sealant for the cylinder sleeves . otherwise it is going to leak coolant into the sump all the time and then you will be needing more than a new head . .

Bike Bandit or your dealer can get you the hylomar . It's listed on BB  in the CRANKSHAFT, CONN RODS, PISTONS & LINERS fiche and it is item #17  
17:
HYLOMAR, 100 GR TUBE   5578228-001   $29.94

Do it , it's the only way to seal the cylinders , otherwise your tigger will explode once the coolant attacks the main and rod bearings

[JetdocX]

Yay!  I love this engine!  

I have a cam timing question, too.  Seems like the shop manual has the arrows on the gears pointing at each other at #1 TDC.  My cams don't agree with that.  I noticed this when I took it apart.

Also, how does the crank sensor know when to fire the spark.  The crank makes two complete turns for every cam rotation.  How does it know which time to fire, or does it just go ahead and fire on the exhaust stroke, too? :?

[Mustang]

the ecu takes care of it for the firing .

The arrows on the cams should be pointing at each other when the #1 is at top dead center if they were not then someone didn't put it back together right last time it was apart and had the teeth of the cam gears off , when you put it back together you should actually have to pry the chain over the intake cam gear to keep the arrows lined up . reason being because one of the cylinders , i forget which one 2 or 3 is starting to have the cam open some valves so there is a pressure against the cam that makes it easy to get the intake off by one tooth .

[JetdocX]

How does the ECU know whether it's a compression stroke or an exhaust stroke?  I can see nothing else to differentiate unless it just fires every other pass of the trigger.  Then the question comes up:  How do I know I'm on the right stroke when assembling except trial and error?

I'll take a picture of the cams installed once I get back to that part and show you what I mean.  The bike ran well before (meaning the cams were 180 out) which means to me that it was assembled correctly.  The intake and exhaust cams are in the right holes, and the gears on the end are identical and can only be installed on a cam in one way, so these can't be swapped.

For now I'm off to find Hylomar 100......

[Mustang]

notice that there are seven triggers on the crank sensor plate the ecu knows when to fire by the pulses it is receiving from the sensor

see the mark that says t1 is lined up with the crank sensor , when that is set there the cams arrows should be pointing directly at each other and should be basically at the same level as the height of the cylinder head where the valve cover surface is

[JetdocX]

I know how to line up the#1 mark and the cams by the book.  What I can't figure out is how the ECU knows which cylinder is where.  All seven of those trigger points go by twice in one complete engine revolution (cams go round once).  How does it know whether #1 for instance is on compression or exhaust?  It can't unless I'm missing a cam sensor somewhere, right?

Perhaps it does not know and fires the plug anyways.  It would not make much difference firing on the exhaust stroke, as all or most of the combustion gasses are burned, and it might also help clean up the emissions.  Just one of those things that makes me go, "Hmmmmmm."

BTW, that is one sweet looking timing advance plate.  I hope they still make them.

[Mustang]

It's smart and counts pulses , some of the machines I used to work on had spindle speed detectors that could count marks on the sensor ring that were spaced only 1/32 of an inch apart and would count every mark , like 6or 700 of em in one revolution at 8000 rpm

if you really are curious and want to know stick a spark plug connected to the #1 coil in your mouth and turn the crank by hand if you get bit every time the crank spins once it fires on the exhaust stroke too  

it could well be that it does fire on the exhaust stroke , my Honda  CRF450 does

[JetdocX]

I think I'll use some alligator clips attached to my gonads to test my theory! :lol:  :lol:  :lol:

OK, cyl 1 and 2 slid right out really smoothly.  And the piston retracts enough into the hole in the case for a good thourough cleaning of the cylinder sleeve mating surfaces.  They even cut a nice taper in the bottom of the cylinder sleeve to aid in reinstallation without a ring compressor!  Too bad they couldn't have gone the extra half mile and put a nice o-ring seal at the base of the cylinder instead of the mickey mouse Hylomar-unobtainium seal on there right now.

I'll be waiting two more weeks for the fancy sealer to get here and a new head gasket as well.  Yay!  

While I'm waiting, I have time to contemplate removal of cyl. #3.  It won't budge.  Should I get medieval on it?  or just leave it alone?  Anyone?

I'll take photos, too so you can all reap the possible benefits of my misfortune, or just laugh at me, not with me. :roll: