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new guy, and jetting question.

Started by dieselr3, April 02, 2009, 06:05:11 AM

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dieselr3

Hey folks,great board and people.I just bought a 96 tiger not long ago but just cannot get this bike running right. All the usaul things checked new o rings in carbs, floats set, all tank filters and carb filter cleaned, tank breather good. Air box is new. Even have new nology coils.
Thing is its got a staintune 3into1 system on it, and it dies when you let the clutch out. Does anybody have any idea to what jetting is needed for the staintune setup?.
I am currantly running
3 turns out idle screw ,almost stops stalling, but runs rich/sooty
42.5 pilots
3rd notch from top stock needle
110 mains
stock float height.

only things I havnt replaced are carb diaphragms, or checked valve clearances yet. Any help on this is greatly appreciated, cheers

Mustang

3 turns is a lot on the pilot screws , try going with some bigger pilot jets and make sure the orings that go on the pilot screws are not buggered . if you have the right pilot jets in it for the setup you have you shouldn't have to open the pilot screws more than 2 turns

dieselr3

Ill try one size up on the pilots and see what happens. The staintune system is basicly straight through with no restriction, very free flowing. it was already on the bike when i got it ,nice sound though :wink:

Mustang

Forgot to add that you may want to have the cap on the right side snorkel or it won't run very good either , with 110's for main jets you should definately only have one side of the airbox open .

dieselr3

Thanks, yes one side is capped, the other is snorkled.

nightrunner

I think the others have got you covered.   The only thing I can add is that 3 turns is indeed the limit for pilot screws.  More turns will not add any more fuel.  Here's a really good reference on jetting M/C carbs.

http://hondanighthawks.net/carb14.htm (http://hondanighthawks.net/carb14.htm)

For reference I have stock airbox and exhaust on my 98 (keihin carbs) and I went one size up on the pilots, and the mains, and shimmied the needles by 0.025".  I can run with or without the right side airbox cover; it just gets a little leaner without it.  It gives a bit of control for big changes in elevation.  The bike runs and starts great.  With the header on your's I would say use at least a similar setup and you may end up raising the needle a bit more and going 2 sizes up on the jets.

Lastly, you could rig up a cheap differential manometer using a clear tube and water, and balance the carbs as well.   You'll find plans for these gizmos on advrider, or you can buy the the fancy electronic balancers for like $100 or so.

Welcome to the forum
Scott

Seeking adventure and peril

dieselr3

Thanks for the tips, all good stuff. Ive balanced the carbs, using the same method ,they were pretty spot on for balance.
 But the good news is putting the 45 pilot jets in made quite a difference. Now it dosnt die and stall like it did before, and Ive got the pilot screw out to 2 turns, runs smoother with good acceleration, very little popping or farting. Also the valve clearances checked out ok, no tight valves.

Starting to run allot better.

Thanks all for the help and advice.

Mustang

puts a big silly grin on your face when they run right doesn't it :D  :D  :D