Electrical accessory load on Tiger

[mrazekan]

It was stated the alternator puts out 480 watts....
I read that and questioned it..... my notes on my service page says
420 watts.

So I looked in my service manual: The alternator output on a 955cc
motor is 35 amps.

Lets not forget:  Power = Voltage X Current

So, 35 amps at 12V means 420Watts maximum available.

Now we know we can get 14.5V at the battery terminals.  (Thanks sasquatch!)  So at 14.5V, the 35A protected charging circuit can output ~500W before the fuse blows.  

But we know that the stator can only put out so much power.  This is a function of the RPM, wire gauge, fixed magnet field strength, geometry, and heat dissipation capabilities.  The number I have heard is around 350W.  This makes sense as we should never really be operating near the rated fuse capacity.  If consumption exceeds 350W, than the voltage will drop.  The battery will then add extra power and run down if the total load is not reduced.

I'll be combing over my electrical system this weekend.  I have a really cool current meter that I will be using.  I'll be writing it up soon.  We'll see what happens.

[gbcphoto]

I strongly recommend that Tiger riders install a voltmeter on or near the gauges to keep track of electrical goings-on.  Doing so allows you to keep track of the condition of the charging system under various loads.

Without one you're just guessing, and if your accessories are pulling too much juice, you won't know it until the battery gets too low to run the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition.  You're walking then, baby.

Cheap insurance...  http://www.DatelMeters.com/cgi-bin/webs ... g=ent-home

Hello Stretch,

I have been reading all of the post to do with the Girly charging system problems with great interest. A wealth of knowledge. Does Triumph know about you guys???  Thanks for sharing. Great stuff.

I am in the midst of doing the RR switch to a newer MOSFET type as well the harness bypass. After reading your comments about using the 500wt RR( just bought it), I am rethinking and considering a 350wt. Not sure yet. It was a  pain to get one off ebay up here and it took 2 weeks.  As you said if one keeps in mind the load on the bike you should have no problems. Right?

After taking the connector of of a Elecrtosport RR I made it fit to the existing Stator Plug. NOW I have to change that because of your post on burnt spade connectors. Thanks! javascript:emoticon(':lol:') It was such a nice job I did too.

The question I have is where did and how did you install your Datelmeter. I have one and am not sure of where the best place to connect the +lead on the switched side.
I had considered a ChargeGuard but thought the Datel was as good and it was availabel up here.

Thanks in Advance

GBC

[Stretch]

Howdy!

I've already experienced all the trials and tribulations with swapping and experimenting with various parts and pieces I've described here.  I feel your pain.  

I've clipped the connectors off of brand-new electrical parts, knowing I've voided the warranties by doing so.  But when the connectors build up so much heat so as to cause the connector to fail, sod the bloody warranties.  I'd rather my bike work.

You won't have any trouble with running a 500-watt R/R as long as you keep your electrical load below the 350 watts that the Stator can supply.  If you go over 350, you're overloading the Stator, and she'll cook.

I installed my voltmeter on a shelf I built for the dash, but it can be installed in the dash near the heated grips switch.  The Datel meter comes with a spring-steel bezel for in-dash installations.

[gbcphoto]

Howdy!

I've already experienced all the trials and tribulations with swapping and experimenting with various parts and pieces I've described here.  I feel your pain.  

I've clipped the connectors off of brand-new electrical parts, knowing I've voided the warranties by doing so.  But when the connectors build up so much heat so as to cause the connector to fail, sod the bloody warranties.  I'd rather my bike work.

You won't have any trouble with running a 500-watt R/R as long as you keep your electrical load below the 350 watts that the Stator can supply.  If you go over 350, you're overloading the Stator, and she'll cook.

I installed my voltmeter on a shelf I built for the dash, but it can be installed in the dash near the heated grips switch.  The Datel meter comes with a spring-steel bezel for in-dash installations.

Hi Stretch,

Thanks for the reply but I guess I wasn'r very clear on my question as to where I can attach the meter in the wiring harness. I plan to install in the dash as you suggest but I am not sure where is best to power it from. Any suggestions much appreciated.

As for the 500wt RR, I only ever run a heated vest and only on the coldest days up here. There may be a set of acc. lights in the future but that is about it. From all the posts regarding loads on the tiger, I think I'm in the clear.
I am going to cut the plug from the stator(':cry:') and connect the wires to the RR with a Posi Connectors. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec_ ... -info.html    I have had real sucess with these connectors in the past.

Thanks again Stretch.

Cheers
GBC

[oxnsox]

Best place to measure battery voltsis...  at the battery,  anywhere else is not giving you accurate numbers.  But you'd  want to have the meter fed fused and switched.
On alternator output... the 420watt rating would be max o/p.  Which you'll only really get when the engine revs are up probably over 3k rpm and things are cool. Because as has been said before, this is not what you will get when things warm up and the efficiency decreases. I'd think you'll be lucky to see 350 then, so it will be interesting to see the figures  from  mrazekan    
Soo....  start with the wiring mod to get as much of that power as efficiently as you can into the storage jar, and keep an eye on it all with a voltmeter

[Stretch]

Here's a thread on voltmeters.  I have a reply in there somewhere on how I wired mine in...  http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5356