im in the dar club

[aeronca]

ok, im am now in the club - the dar club. i've been in de-nile far to long,but can no longer take the noise and vibe's in the engine. my 95 just rolled over 50,000(+) and it is time to fix this issue. i will take pic's of the progress and post when done, and will contact as many of you all as possible via pm's when im stuck  :)    parts ordering shall start at once.

[Sin_Tiger]

I'll be watching this as I will need to do it soon too, did I read somewhere that there is an upgrade kit of parts to resolve the issue completely?

[abruzzi]

not sure if the kit saves you any money, but you need three parts: the hollow geared shaft, the bolt and the nut.  While you are in there, I'd replace the cush drive rubber pieces it adds a few bucks, but mine were pretty disintegrated and new ones make reintaling the alternator easier.

Geof

[Sin_Tiger]

Thanks for the tip Geof, might well have missed that. Chances are it will get a full rebuild but when you start adding things up these are the bits that you either forget or think they might save a dollar or two.

[nightrunner]

It depends on where the DAR is coming from.  There are three bolts that can cause it.  Two are easy fixes.  The third is more involved.  Many threads here  covering all cases.  Pull the alternator first and look for broken bolt head.  If both bolts are intact, gently pull on the shaft that drives the alt.   Do not move it much, just see if it can be moved out.  If so, the bolt on the other end of that shaft is the culprit.   Lots f threads with details and pics.  Have fun!

S

[Mudhen]

Ouch...sorry to hear that.  Interested in the pics, though...haven't had the opportunity to experience it myself, yet...

Good luck!

[akendall1966]

Was just ordering some stainless fasteners and noticed th site I was ordering from supply a replacement bolt, an alternate to Triumph but wont be as an complete as job as the kit.

http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Triumph-88 ... A5RTQ.aspx

Ade66

[nightrunner]

I hate to pee on your Cheerios, but the stock bolt is a DIN10.9 too (which is equivalent to a US grade 8 FYI).  Check around the fastener suppliers and you will find a DIN12.9, which is aircraft grade, in that size.  I bought a whole box from McMaster Carr for maybe $15.

Even then the problem is that those splines are not a perfect fit and can wiggle (rotationally) just a fraction of a degree.  So with thousands of miles of leading and trailing torque on the alt shaft, the bolt can slowly tighten.  Eventually it snaps.   I have read of some owners where DAR happened twice.  Find a way to take up the play in the splines when you assemble it.  Or you could use a high-strength thread locker so it will resist both loosening and tightening.  You might consider using a flat washer and no lock washer too.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[nightrunner]

One more thing.  If it is the alt shaft bolt (and it usually is) then you will have to remove the broken bolt from the shaft.   When I did mine years ago, a new alt cost over US$800.  So be very careful extracting that busted bolt.  I took it to a pro machinist rather than risk it myself.

[akendall1966]

No  problem fortunately I have not suffered DAR and my bike has supposedly been done by the previous owner so fingers crossed.  Just spotted that fasteners web site listed the bolt, if what they are offering is no better than stock, better off seeking out a higher grade item elsewhere.

Cheers Ade66

[aeronca]

ok, as you can see from when i first posted this, i am a procrastinator(sp?). BUT,i ordered the parts, and proceeded to pull the alt. and low and be hold, the thing wasnt broken. what was bad was the rubber cush drive parts in the alternator flange cup. $8.00 fix. what a difference in sound though, and alot smoother. im glad i did not have to rip into the bike any further than i did, and, ive got all the part's ready to go for the next time :lol:

[JetdocX]

Did ya take any pix, Airknocker?  My top alternator bolt took a lot of heat, Kroil and four torx bits before it finally let go.  Found my alternator bolt loose.  Put everything back together with some of the strongest threadlocker I could find on the splines and the bolt.  Noticeably quieter when cold, but not sure if it made much difference when idling and warm.

[rybes]

ok, as you can see from when i first posted this, i am a procrastinator(sp?). BUT,i ordered the parts, and proceeded to pull the alt. and low and be hold, the thing wasnt broken. what was bad was the rubber cush drive parts in the alternator flange cup. $8.00 fix. what a difference in sound though, and alot smoother. im glad i did not have to rip into the bike any further than i did, and, ive got all the part's ready to go for the next time :lol:

sounds like mine. fingers crossed thas all it is. :D

[aeronca]

no pic's brother jd. i got other problems now. i rode the thing into work last night and it was smooth. same on the way home. got up this afternoon and was screwing around with this power outlet some one in the past added. did'nt know if it worked, so i stuck my meter in there and didnt see any voltage, removed the ground lead and put it on the frame and the bike died. DEAD!!! now when i turn my key to on my tach jumps around slightly and my oil and nutral light flash with a clicking sound for a few seconds untill everything just dims out(like the battery is dead).  wont turn over either. any idea's???????

[aeronca]

:shock:  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:  battery????