Wiring up a junction box... FOR DUMMIES.

[flux]

I recently wanted to make it so my accessories will shut off when the key is turned off to destroy the chances of battery depletion by accidentally leaving something on when I'm dismounted.  The problem was that I am totally ignorant when it comes to wiring and electrical stuff.  :oops:

I got a lot of great help from the members of this forum and thought this would be a good opportunity to pitch in.  

During my search I never found an exact wiring diagram for what I was looking to do.  I also had problems describing parts to automotive supply companies.  

There are other ways to do this but for my solution here is everything my fellow wiring rookies need to do this job...

[outrunner]

:? ???


Andy.

[flux]

Here's a diagram I drew up using one that TigerTrax provided in another thread as a template.  




Here's my list of shopping materials, dumbed down for fellow rookies.  I added links to websites so you can see for yourself what they are.  I walked into a Radio Shack and bought all this stuff.  

* 4 pin, 30 amp, 12 volt relay
http://www.suvlights.com/product_info.p ... cts_id=117

* 6 (or 8 ) position dual-row barrier strip (you will need 2 of these).  This is the DISTRIBUTOR BLOCK.  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2103983

* 6 (or 8 ) position jumper strip (again, you need 2 of these).  If you can only find one that is longer than the barrier strip listed above, you can break off the extra length that is not needed.  This strip fits into the distributor block to join all the terminals.  
http://cgi.ebay.com.my/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0227455403

* 20 amp inline blade-type fuse holder, at least 18 gauge wire.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=2102781

* Red, black, and blue 18 gauge wire

* Assortment of electrical connectors.  Buy more than you think you need.  I messed up a few times while experimenting and had to make another trip to town.  
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mtnec200.html

* Heat shrink tubing (because I cannot solder).  Use this around all connectors to help with water resistance.    http://www.nothingbuthardware.com/513229.html

[flux]

Here's the link that TigerTrax provided me which was a big help.  They call some items by 'unofficial names' as best as I can tell but their explanations were good.  Use this as a step-by-step if the diagram I drew up was not enough for ya.  
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php


The only thing I did not hook into the distributor block was my GPS as I prefer to have it on sometimes when the bike is not on.  It draws such a little current I'm not so worried about it.  


The final result...



You want to be careful to route your wires so your seat does not pinch or rub them.  I have a Corbin and there is space there on the frame.  I ended up zip-tying them in place to ensure they stay where I want them.   8)

[Hemibee]

Here's a diagram I drew up using one that TigerTrax provided in another thread as a template.  

Here's the link that TigerTrax provided me which was a big help.  They call some items by 'unofficial names' as best as I can tell but their explanations were good.  Use this as a step-by-step if the diagram I drew up was not enough for ya.  
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

Looking at your drawing and the provided link has raised a question.  Isn't the Terminal #30 wired incorrectly?  I thought the #30 was for the power supply instead of the power out to the distribution block.  In the link he says #30 is the power supply but in his drawing it shows #30 as the supply to the distribution block.

[Mustang]

follow the diagram , it is correct .

[cosmo]

I believe that it makes no difference whether you use 87 or 30 as power in, as the relay just connects the two poles when energised.

Same with 85 and 86, as the solenoid is wholly separate from the power switching.

What you DO need to watch is the position of the terminals. While many relays look alike, I have found there to be two different positionings to the terminals.

However, they all work the same, with 85 and 86 being the triggers, 30 and 87 being the switched terminals.

Cosmo

[Hemibee]

I believe that it makes no difference whether you use 87 or 30 as power in, as the relay just connects the two poles when energised.

Same with 85 and 86, as the solenoid is wholly separate from the power switching.

What you DO need to watch is the position of the terminals. While many relays look alike, I have found there to be two different positionings to the terminals.

However, they all work the same, with 85 and 86 being the triggers, 30 and 87 being the switched terminals.

Cosmo

That explains it, I knew we would follow the directions on the relays we've used in the past and they all said that #30 was the power supply and 87 was the accessory supply.  I never thought about they would work either way but it does make sense now.  I may be a little slow but so far I'm trainable.  :lol:

[Nimrod11]

Great post Flux!

One question: how do you connect each terminal of the connection bar? Isn't each terminal isolated from one another? So how do you get current to all?

No need to cover the positive? Have open positives just there, asking to be shorted. OK, you have a fuse, but still enough to piss one off.

[Mustang]

Great post Flux!

One question: how do you connect each terminal of the connection bar? Isn't each terminal isolated from one another? So how do you get current to all?

No need to cover the positive? Have open positives just there, asking to be shorted. OK, you have a fuse, but still enough to piss one off.

If you look close at his actual picture of the setup you will see that the terminal strips are connected from one to the other for distribution , except of course there is no bridge on the terminal bar between positive and negative .
and yeah a cover would be nice , but I've seen worse stuff on factory setups with no protection from ground ..like no cover over battery terminals , coil connections etc etc