Staror and Regulator/Rectifier resistance and voltages

[twowheelwandering]

Hi all, had a charging problem on an '05 Tiger that seemed to get worse in the heat and better in colder riding - I put it down to a bung R/R, and got new aftermarket one from the States.  Just recently, not long after, had a massive meltdown with the R/R connections, and the stator plug also.  I've had the stator checked at a specialist coil rewinders, they say its fine - it puts out over 50V on all legs at 5000rpm; the resistance between each leg is between 4 and 5 ohms.

The regulator is harder to test; has anyone got or posted what the diodes there should read?  I've grabbed test results from other bikes off the net but its hurting my brain more than helping, as they are close but not quite.

The coil rewind shop tested my original R/R and said it was still ok, though did say that was cold and could easily have a problem hot.  The aftermarket one from the States is definitely dead.
I bought a MOSFET R/R from this same coil shop that they recommended, I believe its one from a VFR, which should be plug and play.  I can check tomorrow if anyone's interested.  When cold, it shows pretty close to the same voltage values in the diode test as the original R/R -

with the positive multimeter lead on the R/R black wires (ie right lugs as you look at the R/R connector straight on, and the retaining clip at the top), and the negative multimeter lead on each of the yellow wires in turn on the second connector, I get around 0.5V on each.

Same if I take the negative multimeter lead and put in on the red (mates with brown on the loom) wires from the R/R and test each yellow in turn.

Any other position gives me no voltage at all.

Is this right?  I have only briefly put the R/R and stator (with beefed up individual connections as recommended by the coil shop) on the bike and run it for 15 mins.  I get a constant voltage of about 13.6, which doesn't really go up with revs.  Going to do the bypass mod listed in other posts, especially since I want to run my Odyssey battery on it - but these AGM batteries don't really charge below 13.6 (Not sure if all AGM's are like this, I know its true of the Odyssey batteries after running them on my KLR for a long time...)

Going to rearrange the R/R so the fins are at least parallel to the airflow...the spot where Triumph chose to put it does seem pretty stupid.

Not sure if I've even got an elec issue now, would just like to confirm that the diode test as I'm reading it is correct, otherwise I've somehow managed to smoke a brand new R/R in a few short minutes...

Cheers,

Rich
Melbourne Aust.

[delecti]

Rearwheelwander, hi from fellow aussie how are things down south? in anwser to your question go to the forum http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6687
it will help you out with lots of places to get more info. Generally from what i can gather if the r/r goes then it fries the stator and the whole lot need to be replaced. there are recommendations for the best units in that lot as well.
Going your way next month then on to tassie for a couple of week on the apple isle.
Mark
Maitland
nsw

[oxnsox]

Righto Blokes, I'll add a little Kiwi input...
Rich, if the RR failures are caused by heat (which they probably are), then the issue can be either total failure (burnout) of one or more of the diodes in the RR (usually one is all it takes), or perhaps less common the heat can just lead to electrical joints within the RR failing at temperature.... in this case things will all measure right when its cold.

The approx half volt you are measuring is pretty typical for a diode... if anything perhaps a little low.... You should not be able to measure things the same on the MOSFET unit because it works differently. As you've probably read in other threads here it is the smart fix because the MOSFET RR's work on a different principle, so don't dump the excess energy thru the RR heatsink. It's a higher cost option at manufacturing time, which is probably why they aren't included new.

With regard to the 13.6V output, thats set by a Zener diode somewhere internal in the RR, so can't be changed... if you look on the manufacturers site for your battery you'll find  what their recommended charge voltages are (different battery chemistries do have variations in actual charge, and usage, voltages)... the results, as you know, means that you won't actually ever fully charge the battery