Chain Rub Block

[NeilD]

I reckon about 15mm but was having trouble holding the torch and tape measure at the same time.. if Mustang doesnt get a chance later I'll have a proper go tomorrow...

one thing you might want to to.. change that torxhead bolt on the side of the chainguide for a hexhead, as once the swingarm is in place its right behind the footrests (I think) and difficult to get square on to it if its a bit tight next time you want to change the guide... not as bad as on the Thunderbird series, on mine I had to unbolt the rear subframe and prise it apart to wind the bolt out!!  :D

[rf9rider]

Cheers Neil, i will eventually strip the whole bike next winter, and rebuild the lot and replace all the bolts with stainless ones, it`ll do for now.  :)

[NeilD]

in the daylight its nearer 10mm although difficult to get a rule on it with the exhaust etc in the way..  :roll:

[Mustang]

sorry rf didn't get a chance to work tigger 2 , busier than a cat covering shit....
and as neil says it's hard to get in there with the footpeg bracket in the way ............
I fyou can stand to bear with me I should get to it eventually in the next couple of days  :roll:

[cochris]

Mine, too has nothing remaining of the tab, block or bracket. Dealer wanted +$50 for parts. I thought that was crazy! I'm not too interested in welding to aluminum. What do you all think of bolting a bracket to the footpeg hole? Haven't figured out how then to keep it in place...
But, fabricating said bracket w/ a chunk of teflon or the like should be able to be done for a few bucks. Thoughts, anyone??  Thanks.
Also, if anyone thinks that would work, how high should the top of my makeshift block be above the center of the bottom footpeg hole?

[rf9rider]

Finally got the bracket made and fitted.
Used 2mm steel.











Just needs a coat of paint, and need to get some proper mushroom headed allen bolts.

So does it look ok?

Does the height of the block look to be in the right place?

[Mustang]

looks good .
That height appears to be just about perfect
you have made a nice repair that eliminated the need for welding .
My only concern will be if the chain is able to contact the nuts when it is passing by at high rate of speed , only one way to find out .

In your photo you can see exactly why triumph put that block there .....to keep the chain from rubbing on the frame as seen in your pic
GOOD JOB BTW !

[rf9rider]

Thanks Mustang.
Theres only a couple of mm space between the chain and bracket bolts, so hoping theres enough room to allow for sideways movement of the chain.
I haven`t access to a welder, so had to use bolts for now, but i might get it welded on when i strip it down next winter.
Or i have thought about countersinking the holes, and using countersunk headed bolts.

[Sin_Tiger]

Managed to get to the workshop on Sat and guess what! My bracket has been broken off at some point as well and welded back on  :roll: will the bodge list ever end :( The welds don't look brillinat but they are solid so I think I'll leave it. Been busy today, I'll post the drawing and photos tomorrow. You've been busy, frightened you might miss the one good riding day between now and July  :lol:

[John Stenhouse]

You've been busy, frightened you might miss the one good riding day between now and July  :lol:

You mean there will be one?  :lol:

[Sin_Tiger]

You mean there will be one?  :lol:

Bit of a vain hope from what I see of the UK weather just now  :roll:

Finally got my sh1t together, camera - check, notebook cardboard pen pencil - check, vernier calipers - doh!, Autodesk - on the otehr works PC - doh! The waist radius is just a guess and I can't be sure of the angle of it relative to the frame, just too pigg'n difficult to measure without a full strip down and being jammed in next to a rack of GS's waiting for shaft seals etc. I was too  :oops: to hang around there too long.

Chatting with my mechanic guru, he reckoned Suzuki made a couple of different sized Nylon / Teflon / High Impact PU type rollers complete with sealed bearings built in for their early dirt bikes and that they were available pattern for not a lot of gold bars, he's investigating  

Just found I can't upload as I've reached my quota maximum so I'll have to link them.

On Chassis (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3275124&l=8cf4749fdc&id=580424527)

Part Image (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3275120&l=d7588af23d&id=580424527)

Drawing (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3275119&l=5a7c163ab7&id=580424527)

[rf9rider]

Thanks Sin.
I`ll have another go at that next winter when the bike is stripped down.
Just have to wait and see how my bracket holds up.

[Sin_Tiger]

Your job looks pretty solid, unless something very untoward happens like the chain letting go, you'll probably be fine.

I'll post back here when I find out about the roller thingy's.

Fingers crossed for some good weather for you guys  8)

[rf9rider]

I finally got the new block on and fitted the swing arm etc.
The block was mounted way too high, with the new swing arm slider fitted as well, the back wheel was almost solid.
Had to "fettle" the rub block, rather than remove the swing arm etc again,I just cut off some metal where it fits under the peg mount, this lowered it enough so i could at least turn the back wheel.
So i`m going to run it like this for now, see how it goes.
Sending my original shock off today for a rebuild, then just the carbs to clean and balance, and do the valve clearances, then hopefully ride the thing.  :D

[Mustang]

, then just the carbs to clean and balance, and do the valve clearances, then hopefully ride the thing.  :D

Valve adjust first , carb balance last it makes a difference !