Looking for old o2 sensor eliminator thread with pics

[oradbaforpsoft]

I'm not going to be able to play with the software O2 disable till Monday at the earliest - I'm off to the Moto Gp tomorrow - but anyway, whether the O2 is disabled in the software or not, as long as you leave the O2 connected, you don't need the plug.  All the plug does is fool the ECU into thinking the O2 sensor is connected by giving a static voltage (it's simply a 3.3 ohm resistor if I remember corectly).  If it wasn't there you'd get the MIL light on all the time because the ECU would think there's a fault.  Another way to disable the O2 in the software - although a little more clumsy - is to remove all 14.5 - 14.7 values in the AF map.  Having said that, if you're going after horsepower, you want to set the AF map values to 13 first anyway.  12.8 to 13 is best power, 14.5-14.7 is best economy.  Above 14.7 is overheating and mass destruction....

(If this is all gobbledegook, Google "stoichiometric" and all will become clear).

Bob
Thanks for even taking the time to test it out. I am in no rush - my TuneECU cables are still somewhere in China.  I do already have the dynojet plug though, and was wondering if installing it would be a waste of time if I could achieve the same goal via the software, instead. That way I could also turn it back 'on' via the ECU later, correct ? Even with a slow up/download time, I'm pretty sure it's quicker than dancing the tank removal jig.

Enjoy the races!

[Bixxer Bob]

No probs

[Cos]

I've had a good look at the software (thanks Bixxer Bob)

I'm a complete amateur when it comes to this stuff but it shouldn't be dangerous to just load a map without changing any values, right?

[oradbaforpsoft]

Update:
Earlier this week I installed a new TOR and used TuneECU to download the correct tune - free.
Bike seems to run fine - enjoying the roar vs. the previous purr with the stock pipe.
I don't know if I noticed any more power, but it sounds cool!
Just installed the dynojet o2 sensor eliminator part. Bob - you were right, I wasn't able to deselect it with the sagem.
Now trying to find the right size bolt to fill up the gap where I removed the sensor from the exhaust. - Haven't started the bike - waiting to bung it up before I do. Anyone have the bolt/washer size handy ?
Bob - I would be interested in finding what settings you changed to get the extra HP you alluded to.

[oradbaforpsoft]

just installed a Drain Plug (Metric) - Size was 18mm x 1.50 (inches I guess). NAPA part number 704-1037 - cost $2.99, plus a copper gasket - part number 704-1356 - cost $.99

[Bixxer Bob]

I'm not sure how to do it with the freeware.  I did mine with Tuneboy but had it on a dyno at the time.  For an idea, have a look here:

http://tigertriple.com/forum/viewtopic. ... light=dyno (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6863&highlight=dyno)

[oradbaforpsoft]

Thanks - interesting thread.  My 03 with a TOR now uses the 10121 tune. Comparing my old 10121 with your newer 10173, it looks like the new one runs a little leaner at higher loads (but still on the rich side of 13.0), but also seem to have the same 'block' of values 14.5 from 2500rpm - 6000rpm at up to about 30% load.
I guess if that's where most of the load is most of the time, that explains the ecu's 'desire' to give better emissions/fuel consumption/etc at those settings. It also makes sense (to me) to want to enrich those values a little - say 14.0 instead of 14.5 for a little better low-end grunt, and cooler running temps.? Would you agree ? I've always thought my Girly ran a little hot - living in Texas doesn't help much.
Also, regarding the slow/lumpy idle problem we experience with the first startup of the day - could this be because the setting of 14.5 in the 1000-1400 rpm range is designed to run the engine lean so it warms up quicker? I am happy to wait another 2 mins before riding off, and have it run smoother/richer if that is the case. Also thinking that the 1000-1400rpm low engine load range must deal with closed throttle/deceleration load, and think the popping *should* be cured by enriching again. Tell me what you think, please.
I now have removed the o2 sensor, and have the eliminator plugged in, and wondered if that means I am 'never' in closed loop mode ?

[Bixxer Bob]

Last bit first - without the sensor you never go into closed loop mode, so your trims never change.

I agree with you on the low revs - I richened mine and found it reduced the popping.  The theory being that lean mix doesn't burn completely in the cylinder and ingnites in the downpipes.  Richer mix burns better in the cylinder and so less unburnt fuel gets into the pipes.
 
The mistake we made when adding fuel to my map was that we should have done a dyno run with the target A/F ratio set to 13 across the board, that would give full power everywhere.  We should then have worked out where it was rich / weak and adjusted accordingly.  Instead we adjusted the fuel map directly leaving the ratios alone.  Maybe something to do  another day.....

[oradbaforpsoft]

I thought I understood this better than I do.  Last night I had the TuneECU/cable connected and reset the TPS and was doing a 12-minute tune - after bunging up the exhaust where the o2 sensor was.
TuneECU showed I WAS running in closed-loop mode. The Dynojet o2 sensor eliminator plug seemed to do it's thing as TuneECU showed a voltage for the o2 sensor and did not have any error codes.

[Bixxer Bob]

Ok, to be a little clearer, when the A/F map is 14.5 to 14.7 the ECU's in closed loop.  But the voltage it's reading at the sensor is constant, because of the O2 bypass gizmo. not varying as it would be with the O2 sensor, so the trims don't get changed.

[oradbaforpsoft]

Seems like a likely solution is to NOT have 14.5 - 14.7 in the map ?  So if 14.5 is the threshold, all I would have to do is make a small adjustment - say 14.3 wherever it has 14.5 or higher ? Of course a more radical adjustment gives it more fuel/power, but this is just hypothetical, right

[Bixxer Bob]

That's what most folks do.  Bearing in mind the theoretical perfect mix is 14.7 to 1,  it's wise to not run it that lean routinely.  Most power is made at 13 to 1 and, depending on what the ign advance is doing, it can be as high as 12 to 1.  Dropping from 14.5 to 14.3 is not going to make any noticeable difference to the running, just stop it looking for closed loop.