Rick's Stator to R/R connector overheating

[Goober]

I replaced my OEM Stator and R/R about 1000 miles ago with ones from Rick's because of total stator failure.  I also replaced my battery at the same time.  I originally had the wiring/charing mod, but changed it back to stock and used the connectors supplied with the Rick's Stator and R/R. Since the supplied connectors from Rick's did not attach with a clip, etc...I used electric tape, wrapped around the connectors to hold them together.

The problem...The connector between the Stator and R/R is extremely hot.  It melted all the electrical tape and the tape hardened to the wires and connectors so I am unable to separate them without cutting the wires.  I'm still getting 13.7v while cruising, which is what I've been getting since I replace the unit.   The wires from the stator are normal temp up until 1 inch from the connector.  The wires for the R/R are very hot until they get close to the R/R, then they are fine.  The R/R does not feel abnormally hot.  The battery is not hot, nor are the wires leading to the battery.  Also, the wires are not touching anything that would make them hot (i.e. engine case, R/R, coolant hose, etc..)

Has anyone else experienced this extreme heat at the connector?

Do you think cutting the connector off and soldering the wires together + heat shrinking them will solve the problem?  

I don't understand why only the connector is so hot.

[Advwannabe]

Hi Goober,

Sorry to hear. Are you running the Rick's shunt yrpe R/R or the series Mosfet type?. I believe the series Mosfet one runs pretty cool.

I does sound like you have a high resistance joint in your new wiring somewhere. Resistance causes volts drop and therefore heat, but that ammount of heat is concerning.

Have you performed any other mods to the wiring?

As you have returned the circuit path to standard, it might be worht checking the integrity of the connections back to the battery ie: the connection on the starter motor and the main earth.

Good luck and let us know how you go. I hope to get my stator cover back from the dealer tonight and will fit up my Ricks stuff to make sure it works before I do the volts mod

[Goober]

I'm not sure on the R/R type.  Here's what I ordered/installed from Rick's:

Description : 1 (10-005)  OEM Style Rectifier-Regulators, 1 (21-005)  New

I took the connectors off today.  They had melted/fused themselves together.  The wiring was burned, and the wires were exposed near the connector on the R/R side.  The Stator side was fine and I clipped about 1/2 inch of wire off the end.  The R/R side was burned about 1 1/2 inches.  I clipped 2 inches off from that side.  Then I soldered each wire together and heat shrinked them.  The bike is running with the same voltage as before.  I haven't taken it for a test ride yet, but the wires didn't heat up after 5 minutes of idling in my garage.  

I just hope the damn thing doesn't start on fire.  That is not a good location for an open flame.  :shock:

[oxnsox]

Goober... yep, definitely a bad/poor connection. One or both of these will contribute.
Not a good electrical connection between the plug pins and the socket receiver.. (the low cost connectors don't always mate well, so there is poor surface area contact).
Second issue is the way the metal pin/socet crimps to the wire, often they have a firmer connection to the insulation rather than the cable.

Either replace the connectors or do a solid  (soldered) connection, which would mean you can do the wiring mod as well.

[Advwannabe]

Ok Goober,

Installed my stator and R/R today. Like yours, the connector from the stator to the R/R does not have a clip, that's an annoying lack of quality.

The connection seems pretty solid, but will go for a longer run to check for heat in the joint.

13.8V at a fast idle, probably more once I do the voltage mod.

The part number for the series mosfet R/R is 10-005H

I hope you get good news tomorrow

[Goober]

I took it on a 50 mile ride today after removing the connector and soldering the wires.  The wires stayed cool and I picked up .2 volts at 3,500 rpm.  

I'm surprised Rick's, considering they are an electronic parts designer/supplier, have such poor connectors.  Especially when it was both of their products connecting together.  

Oh well, at least the bike is back to tip top condition.  I've got a 3,000 mile trip from Germany to Sweden and Norway, and then back coming up.

Thanks for your help!

[Advwannabe]

Happy days!

Might be worth giving feedback to Ricks. They seem pretty genuine and might welcome the oppurtunity to improve the product

[Goober]

I did contact Rick's, and here is their response:

"Hi Jim,

Thank you for the email.  Unfortunately the rec/reg connection is always the
weak link in those bikes.  The best way to illuminate the issue is to chop
off the connector & hardwire the connections.  They must be soldered and
staggered at different intervals and you need to double heat shrink them.  

The other option is we can send you new connectors and you can install them
- (you will need the proper crimping tool to do this).  If you go this
route, I would not use electrical tape because you can't keep an eye on the
connector.  Once it starts heating up - you have to take it off, clean it
and re-grease it (with dielectric grease).  If not, the problem will
escalate and it will end up taking out your rec/reg.

Thanks again,

Amanda Shaw"

They said that the wires need to be staggered and double heatshrinked.  It makes sense, but now I'm going to have to tear it apart again

[Advwannabe]

Or just keep an eye out on the join you've made

[ian miller]

I also replaced my stator and rectifier with Ricks.  The connector and wiring  melted/fried.  I cut the wire back and used butt connectors.  It has been good for a few months since.