Running like crap... again.

[Danny955i]

I felt like my bike runs better on the 200000+ VIN number tunes... not the ones made for the 130000+ VIN...

That being said... no matter what I do, it seems like the bike just wants to run like crap.

There's a studder in acceleration off the line.... There's OBNOXIOUS popping on deceleration and, what sounds like a LOT of backfire.

Again, the backfire wasn't there when I was running the 200000+ Vin Tune (Off Road Tune)... but when I went for the proper TOR tune it started in on running poorly.

Not only this, but I feel like there are nuances to the bike's behavior that DON'T change no matter what tune I install...

1. A mild engine clicking... valves?
2. Crappy low end...
3. Poor gas-mileage (27-34 usually)
4. TONS of deceleration popping.

I'm running a Remus Revolution slip on and there IS a bit of blow-by on the clamp on up-pipe, and no matter how I position the clamp, or pipe, I can't crank it down tight enough to get rid of the blow by... probably causing the popping.

Finally the transmission:

It seems as though the clutch/gas/shifting are all out of sync... (I know.. I'm the one connected to all of them... lol) but it's not me. It seems like the clutch never disengages enough, or when it does I don't fully mesh the gear and I pop out of gear when I try to accelerate. I've had TONS of popping out of gear, missed shifts, botched shifts... whatever you want to call them, and I feel like it's all based on the clutch not disengaging fully.

Gah... I'm getting a little worn down.

[Bixxer Bob]

Danny, popping on overrun is either air leak as you've identified or lean mix.  Re-assemble the exhaust joint with some silicone sealer to stop the air leak and it should improve.  

With an aftermarket pipe some popping is inevitable I think but it shouldn't be backfiring.  Popping is when the mix is too lean to burn completely in the cylinder and continues to burn in the exhaust.  Backfiring is either the exhaust valve not being completely closed when firing occurs or a build up of fuel in the exhaust which then ingnites.

Regarding maps, which ones are you trying (the numbers would help)? If you can give me those I'll have a look and see what the main differences are.

[Danny955i]

I was running 10173Map.hex for a while... it's the TOR for +200000 VIN's...

I then ran the 10173AFMod.hex (found on the TuneECU site) and that worked very well, I just modified the idle and little stuff like that.

Finally I ran the 10121Map.hex which is the PROPER TOR tune for my bike... and now it's running quite awfully.

I notice the only two differences between the VIN numbers are on the AF charts... The 200000+ VINS have Throttle % vs. RPM, whereas the older bikes use Engine Load % vs. RPM. Kinda weird.

Either way... It's definitely a backfire... and maybe it's due to the valves... could explain the mild clicking i've been noticing.

I'll try what you suggested this week. Either silicone or some of that nasty-black exhaust goop they sell. It seems to be just a pin-hole leak. But the funny thing is, the bike had a lot of popping on decel even with the stock pipe... again, could just be the same joint and I had never noticed it prior.

[Bixxer Bob]

It'll be good to cure the leak but I don't think it'll make a huge amount of difference.

Regarding Load and Throttle Position, I've just had a look at the Tuneboy maps and on both the Fuel table and Fuel Trim table they use throttle position; the Ign table, Ign Trim table, Ign Limit table and A/F1 table use Load.

[Bixxer Bob]

You can see from the images below that there's quite a difference between the 10121 and the 10173 maps,  left is 121 right is 173.  Generally, the 121 is a lot leaner than the 173.  In fact, it looks a bit like a Daytona map.



Just to explain, front to back left axis is TP 0 - 100%, left to right is RPM 0 - 10,000.

If anyone reading this wants to understand more, I suggest download the free Tuneboy software and play with it, you'll soon see how this works.

Software here:

http://www.tuneboy.com.au/tutorials_sup ... tContainer

955i Tunes here:

http://www.tuneboy.com.au/downloads.html

[jonathan jaecks]

I'm also fighting a (recent) soft ticking which is bugging the crap out of me.  I've got a slight exhaust leak at the TOR can / exhaust junction that I'll get after this weekend but the troubling part is the ticking.  It sounds sort of like a metallic harmonic tick...had valves done 8k ago at the dealer (never again) but suspect that's the heart of the problem.  Any ideas anyone?

[ChazzyB]

I'm also fighting a (recent) soft ticking which is bugging the crap out of me.  I've got a slight exhaust leak at the TOR can / exhaust junction that I'll get after this weekend but the troubling part is the ticking.  It sounds sort of like a metallic harmonic tick...had valves done 8k ago at the dealer (never again) but suspect that's the heart of the problem.  Any ideas anyone?

Remember, a tappy tappet is a happy tappet.

[Danny955i]

So Bob... in response to this, I'm confused.

Leaner is somewhat better, no? I just realized another confusing issue while riding around today and that is the idle dips way below 1000 and almost stalls, even when fully warmed up. I have the idle set to no less than 1300 from 90 degrees on. So something is out of whack with the A/F for sure.

I'm going to re-visit my maps, and possibly just re-load the 173. I mean, there is no real issue between the vins correct?

Also, when the hell did TuneBoy become free?!?!

You can see from the images below that there's quite a difference between the 10121 and the 10173 maps,  left is 121 right is 173.  Generally, the 121 is a lot leaner than the 173.  In fact, it looks a bit like a Daytona map.



Just to explain, front to back left axis is TP 0 - 100%, left to right is RPM 0 - 10,000.

If anyone reading this wants to understand more, I suggest download the free Tuneboy software and play with it, you'll soon see how this works.

Software here:

http://www.tuneboy.com.au/tutorials_sup ... tContainer

955i Tunes here:

http://www.tuneboy.com.au/downloads.html

[Danny955i]

And also... the A/F1 table is Load %, the A/F2 table is throttle position on my TuneECU.

[Bixxer Bob]

Tuneboy software has always been free.  It's the cable and the software key to connect to your ECU that costs the earth.....

Before I bit the bullet and bought, I used a cable - like the one for Tune ECU - to connect OBD software to the bike to read and cancel codes.  It's re-mapping using Tunedit that really costs.

[Danny955i]

So there is no real problem running the wrong vin?

I just re-installed the 173 map and already the bike runs noticeably better.

I dunno...

[Bixxer Bob]

You've got me confused now as well.  Generally, leaner (A/F of 14 -14.7 to 1) is for emissions checks and economy.  Richer (A/F 13.5 - 12 to 1) is for smoother running and more power - so I'm not surprised that the 173 works better.

Why would you want to run the wrong VIN?  And no - I've not said (or meant to imply) that running the wrong VIN is ok.

[Danny955i]

Ok... so...

1. Get the right VIN in there.

2. Get the 13.00 to 12.00 map in there.

Hope for the best?

It seems to me that the WRONG vin works SOOO much better. I just don't want to hurt anything long-term.

[Bixxer Bob]

Which year / model / VIN have you?

And which model ECU?  Look on the lable, it'll be SAGEM 1000S or similar.

Which actual tune number are you using? And it is a Tiger map you're using?

[Danny955i]

2001 Tiger 955i

10121Map.hex (Tiger 955i w/aftermarket pipe)

My VIN ends in : 130128

My ECU says: S1000T3