Help please. None running 955i

[Winston C]

Please can you help.

I have a 955i 2004 Tiger which has done just short of 34000 miles.
Whilst travelling to work my tiger died. I had ridden around 100 miles in the rain and suddenly lost power. I made it to the hard shoulder and called out the AA. He took me to a car garage and they diagnosed a faulty fuel pump after 5 minutes of looking. They did not repair it and the AA brought me home.

Today I have checked the following and still no joy getting it to run:

Battery was fully charged and when switched on their is power at all fuses and the ECM relay can be heard to click. Relay output shows 12v when on.
Alarm disconnected and bypassed.
Starter will turn the engine over
Voltage present at the fuel pump, but no noise from it. When I put 12v across the pump it can be heard to run.
IACV not moving when ignition switched on
No spark at the plugs
Tried to connect to my Dealer tool and it could not connect to the ECU.

Previous to this the bike was running fine and has done for the last 3 years.

Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.

[Chris Canning]

In the situation your in I'd take to a dealer to have it diagnosed,you don't have to have it fixed,you could be going round in circles for ever and a day,if they can fix it at the right price then great,if not do it yourself.

At this time of year dealers are flat,they'll check it pretty quick.

[KuzzinKenny]

Hey Winston C !! Not the best way to start on a forum but Welcome !!

have you checked the sidestand switch, clutch lever switch and the kill switch ??

one of them might be gunged up !!

hope its a cheap fix  :)

KK

[Winston C]

Cheers for the ideas.

I thought the side stand switch only stopped the bike if it was in gear?
Would the engine still turnover if the clutch switch was broken and likewise the kill switch?

Would rather try and sort it out myself rather than going to a dealer as the nearest one has a rather bad reputation. Would other dealers pick it up?

I forgot to mention the speedo now flicks around to varying speeds so I think it is likely to be an electrical problem. Is there only one ground point on the bike, just behind the cylinders? I am worried about running new earths as I have read the ECU uses earths to trigger relays etc.

[Bixxer Bob]

OK Winston, first, you're right regarding earths many of the circuits are switched to ground by the ECU so running in new earths could give you a few surprises.  You'll find a reasonable circuit diagram in the Haynes manual.  No harm in checking all the existing ones anyway though.  But before you do that, dummy  question:  the kill switch is on isn't it???

[Winston C]

Thanks Bixxer Bob. Yes the kill switch is in the run position and the starter turns the engine over. I have checked the Haynes manual and carn't see anything wrong.
With the ignition on and the ECM relay removed I get 3.5v at the relay output? With the relay in I get 12v with ignition on and 0v with ignition off. Does this sound like an ECU fault?

[Bixxer Bob]

Don't think so,  ECUs almost never fail.

Without some sort of diagnostics, it's hard to tell what's going on.  Have you any OBD II equipment that can achieve a connection? I'm assuming you have a cable from your earlier post and there's quite a bit of free (somewhat basic) software that can get the job done.  

You say there's no spark, so the coil sticks aren't firing?  Do they have 12v at the LT?  The ECU grounds the live coil stick to fire it.  

Assuming you have fuel going through, my gut feeling at the moment is your crankshaft sensor.  They don't usually fail completely without warning but would cause no spark while everything else is as it should be.  Without a 'scope or a spare sensor, it's hard to diagnose, and they are £52 to buy.  You could put a meter across it.  The plug is hard to get to but you can cheat.  Look where the loom is tie-wrapped to the fuel rail on the right side.  There is a large multi way block connector.  Two wires in one corner, blue with a white longditudinal stripe and blue with a silver grey band are the crank sensor output (there's apost on here recently of me doing this).  Slip a couple of pins past the water seals and then meter across them.   They should be about 8.5 ohms if I remember right - certainly not open or short.

Meanwhile I'll have another ponder and see if I can come up with anything else.

[Winston C]

Thanks for the advice and I will test the LT for 12v at the weekend.
I am not getting any fuel delivery unless I connect a separate battery directly to the fuel pump although there is power at the connector.
Wouldn't have thought it was the crank sensor unless that also stops the IACV from cycling when the ignition is switched on.
Can you recommend any software to test the ECU. My Dealertool normally connects straightaway but now it can't connect to it.
My reasons for suspecting the ECU are the lack of fuel supply, no IACV cycling, no spark, unable to connect to the ECU with my PC and the speedo moving randomly.

I am away from the bike during the week so I will have another go at the weekend. Any other ideas on what to check are really appreciated.

[Winston C]

Thanks for the advice and I will test the LT for 12v at the weekend.
I am not getting any fuel delivery unless I connect a separate battery directly to the fuel pump although there is power at the connector.
Wouldn't have thought it was the crank sensor unless that also stops the IACV from cycling when the ignition is switched on.
Can you recommend any software to test the ECU. My Dealertool normally connects straightaway but now it can't connect to it.
My reasons for suspecting the ECU are the lack of fuel supply, no IACV cycling, no spark, unable to connect to the ECU with my PC and the speedo moving randomly.

I am away from the bike during the week so I will have another go at the weekend. Any other ideas on what to check are really appreciated.

[Bixxer Bob]

Sorry, I didn't make sense last night and may have appeared I wasn't listening.  I'd just got home after a very long day and 200 miles of motorway.

If you suspect the ECU  undo the mountings and have a look at the underside for water ingress.

As a precaution, I'd change the ECM fuse even if it checks out (some blade fuses get lazy - they check out for continuity but can't handle a load, don't ask me why...).  The ECM fuse supply also powers the injectors, the coils and the the O2 sensor.

If the fuse checks out, next check for volts at pin H4  on the ECU black multiplug, the wire for H4 is black with a brown band.

If that checks out, check G4 on the black plug and G4 and G3 on the grey plug  to ground on the battery for continuity - they are the three seperate ground connections for the ECU.

You could also have a problem on pins 3 and 1 on the alarm connector - they are on the volts supply to the fuel pump and may be pulling that down.  

In fact, the connector for the alarm is a good place to look for odd non-running isuues as it is known to cause problems.  If you don't have an alarm there'll be a jumper plug in place where the alarm usually connects.  It's located under the tail cowl so the luggage rack has to come off first.  Check for the usual - corrosion, poor fit etc...

Hopefully, that should give you some answers  :?

[Winston C]

Cheers.

I will check them at the weekend and let you know how it goes.

[Winston C]

Hi

Today I checked and replaced the fuses. None were blown or corroded.

I removed the ECU and the casing is corroded and the base plate rusted in places. I could not get the plate off so could not check if there was water inside. Where the ECU was there is a lot of road grit that must have got in through the whole where the ECU clips in. It was raining heavily when the bike cut out and I had been travelling in the rain for over 2 hours when the bike stopped. My boots and the bottom of the bike were covered in the same road grit found under the ecu.
 
There is 12v at the pin H4 and G4 (black connector) and G4 and G3 on the grey connector are all ok for earth.

There is a 12v supply to the coils and the lambda sensor.

I still can not connect to the ECU using my dealertool PC software. With the ignition on and the dealertool connected it tries to connect, get half way along the progress bar and goes no further. It then times out and says the ignition should be on and the kill switch in the run position.

I disconnected the datatool alarm at the connector and all connections checked out ok.

Given the corrosion to the ecu housing and everything else appearing to be ok I think it could be the ecu, unless you can suggest anything else.

[iansoady]

Sounds bad.

Too late I know but I blocked all the holes in the mudguard with silicone and duct tape. Seems crazy to put holes just where all the rubbish will hit the ECU.

[Bixxer Bob]

I've also changed my stance on ECUs after replacing his cured DB of his fuel gauge woes.

If you're shopping around for a replacement, any SAGEM that looks like yours will do, SAGEM S1000 I think, without going out in the cold to look.  If it's from a bike other than the Tiger you can re-programme it using TuneECU.  That way you can find the best price.

On Ebay, best to search for Triumph DCI...  loads about at around £100.

[Winston C]

Secondhand Tiger ECU off ebay arrived today, plugged in and bike started straight away. I will just have to get the latest tune sorted and the IACV and TPS reset. I have been quoted £10 by Woods in Abergele so thats where I am off to.

I intend to seal all the gaps in the undertray and silicon around the bottom of the new ECU. I will also get some grease to protect all the connections at the front of the bike and around the engine.

Thanks for all your help and I hope to be back on the road on Sunday :D