Steamer wiring

[Bixxer Bob]

Ok, got a call from a friend with a Steamer tonight.  He's got electrical issues and I don't have a wiring diagram for that model.

The problem started after he did a strip, plastics repaint and rebuild.  I don't think he touched anything mechanical because he's not that way inclined.  First it was completely dead.  He squirted WD40 into the ign lock, left it for three days and when he went back to it it lit up and started.  Today he went for a 150 mile run.  First problem was the bulb failed in the high beam blue lamp.  A few miles further on, the green dashboard lamp for the left indicator failed.  then he stopped for fuel and the neutral light wouldn't come on, nor would it start.  He rocked it back and forth with the clutch in and eventually it started.  Each time he's stopped since he's had to do the same.  

I'm concerned that we're looking at least two faults here, ign switch wiring or contacts,  possibly side stand switch although he says it's ok (I told him to short it out anyway just to see if it makes a difference)  and possibly regulator on it's way out causing the blown bulbs.

Thoughts anyone?

[Mustang]

I'm gonna go with ignition switch causing all the problems ..............intermittent power to the wiring from the switch  causing bulbs to fail and and or it's just coincidence on the blown bulbs .
Make sure you have a good ground to the battery

[CoolHandLuke]

http://axia.org.uk/downloads/93-Tiger/T ... Manual.pdf

Wiring diagram in that ^^

[CoolHandLuke]

Check the main loom running past the headstock for signs of wear.

[Bixxer Bob]

Ok guys, thanks.

[Bixxer Bob]

Right then, having studied the wiring diagram (thanks for the link CHL), I think the likely culprit, as it's the only common denominator, is dirty connections on the big block connector that connects the main loom to the cowl loom.

We will see..... :?

Oh, anyone care to tell me where it is?

cheers.... :lol:

[JetdocX]

I think you may find the culprit a broken wire where the loom exits the ignition switch and makes a nasty 180 degree bend (more legendary british engineering).  Cut the zip ties and wiggle.  You'll find the point of breakage.

Or it's internal to the switch.  I've had both.  Able to work around the latter bit with some creative wiring.  The other almost left me stranded about ten miles from home.  Good luck.

[Bixxer Bob]

Cheers JetDox.  I had your issue in mind when he first rang me with this.  I'm probably looking for the easy fix first as he's not mechanically minded and is 200 miles away but, in truth, I thinkit's going to be something similar to what you describe.

Maybe an excuse for another ride though... if it's fine there's a really nice coastal route up to the north east I could use.  Better still,...... if he covers my fuel costs.........:lol:

Edit: Back to reality... Is the ign lock difficult to remove?  I know they usually have shear bolts which immediately put it beyond the reach of a novice but how much stripping is necessary to get at them?  If it's not too bad I could get someone to remove it for him and post it to me for repair.

[Mustang]

Edit: Back to reality... Is the ign lock difficult to remove?  I know they usually have shear bolts which immediately put it beyond the reach of a novice but how much stripping is necessary to get at them?  If it's not too bad I could get someone to remove it for him and post it to me for repair.

complete PAIN IN THE ASS to remove the ignition switch

top triple clamp has to come off and you need a special wrench( or see the post on doing headstock bearings ) then once you finally get that off you have to deal with the shear bolts to get those out . then you will have the switch in your hand . and half of the front end of the bike is sitting on the garage floor  :shock:

[BruKen]

Before that last post ends in the reliability thread it should be noted that this is an intentional security design to protect against theft.....just sayin.... :P

[rybes]

i removed my shear bolts by cutin down throo the yoke into the bolt and makin a screwdriver slot to unscrew the bolts. mustangs right tho, ya have to dismantle everythin to get at it tho.

[Mustang]

Before that last post ends in the reliability thread it should be noted that this is an intentional security design to protect against theft.....just sayin.... :P

and should be noted that they all don't fail .............parking these things outside in the damp weather is what ruins a lot of stuff on em .
That's true of any bike that lives outside a lot . Garaged bikes last a lot longer ........especially when the garage is climate controlled year round



well that and there may still be LUCAS gremlins hanging around Hinkley

[rf9rider]

I`ve recently changed my top yokes, yes, the tank has to come off so you can turn the yoke to get it past the "security" lip on the frame, but the ignition switch shear bolts were a doddle, on both i`ve done, there was what appeared to be a very small hex head on the shear bolt heads, i just tapped a small hex socket on and they both unscrewed no problem. :)
I replaced both with stainless allen headed bolts.

[Timbox2]

Great, those security bolts, thing is round here and london for that matter, they just lift the whole bike into the back of a refrigerated van( Sound Deadened), then just drive off with the alarm going.

An old work colleague had his bike nicked from his garage at the side of his house at night.
The bike was chained to a ground anchor, they hacked the concrete up and draged it 300 yards up the road into a woods.

In the morning he followed the scrape marks up into the woods to find the back wheel with the chain and ground anchor still attached, and Nothing Else, b...rds

I told him he shouldnt drink so much, he might have heard them :lol:

Sorry, bit of a hijack there :oops:

[Bixxer Bob]

That's what I thought.  Best plan would be for him to ride it down here where I'm in my comfort zone - all my tools and workshop around me.... :roll: