Help-won't start

[Totos Tiger]

I just bought a 2003 955 that the owner said was in perfect shape.  I have yet to run a whole tank of fuel through it. I found out it had a voltage regulator problem after the battery went down.  The stator was OK. (recently replaced and not shorted). It has 28,000 miles and no record of anyone ever checking the valves or doing any maintenance.  Now it will turn over but will not start.  I believe it is not getting fuel into the cylinders.  The fuel pump runs when the ignition it turned on.  It pressurized the fuel line coming out of the tank.   I tried taking a plug out and making sure it fired and it did.

This is what I messed with:
1 checked the valves and changed whatever shims it needed.  
2Changed the air filter.  
3 noticed the hoses from the ISCV to the throttle bodies had the " boots" on the ends all split up.  So I replaced those with vacuum line.  
4 I changed the plastic female ends on the fuel tank.  
5 Replaced the fuel filer.
6 Replaced plugs
7 Changed voltage regulator and soldered the Sasquatch fix in with no connectors
8 Replace the leaking radiator cap
9 replace the leaking 90s at the coolant reservoir

I have fire to plugs, fuel pressure to the fuel lines I think(a test for this might help).  Motor turn over good.

Is it possible the fuel injectors are not getting power?

Help please.

[KuzzinKenny]

Hey Totos Tiger !! have ya checked the side stand switch ? and the clutch switch ? could be a quick fix  :?

good luck !!

KK

[Totos Tiger]

I charged up the battery because I didn't know what else to do.  Then it started and ran a LOT better than before I gave it some TLC and badly needed past due maintenance.

Now the check engine light is on.  I am new to tigers and don't know how to check codes or get the light off.  It very well could be a bogus code because I used the starter to move the engine when I was checking the valves.

Can somebody please tell me how to reset the engine light?  Then I'll see if it comes back on.

I did put a fuel sender out of a daytona in it.  Now the fuel gauge works fine.

I also add some auxiliary light to help look for deer.

It seems to wander or search and maybe miss a little while idling.  I was told by a Triumph dealer than it had the proper tune for having a TOR. It does have a TOR.  I am sure that the throttle bodies have not be balanced since no other maintenance was done.

When I get on it, it runs like striped a$$ ape!  :lol:

[Putts255]

To reset everything, you need to make sure you a good battery and it is fully charged, then start it up and let it run for 12 minutes.  This should get you started on getting the light to go out.  

From there I would check your side stand switch and the clutch switch....

[John Stenhouse]

The engine light will go out after three heat cycles, so does it run now?

[Totos Tiger]

Thanks for the help!  

The "how to" section helped with a bunch of stuff.  This is a great forum with great members!

I took some pictures as I was doing it to contribute to the knowledge base.

The light did go out after 3 heat cycles.  The second heat cycle was an attempt at a 12 minute tune.  Not sure it worked.  The light came on (stayed on) when I started it after the 12 minute tune (3rd heat cycle).

It is running now.  I put some Sea Foam in it and rode 200 miles or so today.  I got 33 MPG during that run.  Not quite right but I don't know what is wrong.

I idles rough about 1000-1200 RPM.  Just above idle it misses or surges some.  

TPS?  I don't know how to tell the difference between the symptoms of bad tuning vs bad TPS.

I will sync the throttle bodies when I get some hose extensions made.

I suppose sometime I will look at the tuning.  I don't have a tuneboy or know how to use one now.

Do the coils go bad?  This is a 2003 with 28K miles.

Other suggestion will be welcome.

[John Stenhouse]

Could be a vacuum leak, the ends of the hoses are rubber and split really easy. That causes a rough idle and a miss every now and then.

[Totos Tiger]

The rubber ends on the vacuum lines between the ISCV and the vacuum ports on the throttle bodies were terribly split and could not have been holding any vacuum.  I replaced all 3 of those with regular vacuum lines because I don't know where to get those rubber ends.

Are there any other vacuum lines I might have missed?

[Bixxer Bob]

As long as the vacuum tubes you used are a good tight fit over the throttle body and IACV stubs and there are no kinks in them you're good, buit also check the line that goes from white 90deg elbow in the right rear side of the airbox to the ECU under the rear seat.  That's the line for the baro sensor.  Also check the grommet that the elbow goes through; you might think it doesn't matter if it leaks, but it does.

Don't jump to TPS conclusions, it's not a cheap or easy fix and hasn't helped in many situations.  The way I determined my TPS was bad was TUNEDIT was jumping aound all over the place when I wasn't touching the throttle (I don't think TUneECU lets you see that).

Far better to get the other stuff out of the way first.  Judging by the mpg figures you need to do a health check first.  To do that you're going to need to buy an OBD 2 - USB cable, download TuneECU, a 10173 tune, a lot of reading and then work toward Metalguru's ECU settings posted on here.  You'll get lots of help as you learn, just ask.

BUT, before you do that,  make sure the air filter is clean, the valve clearances are correct and the throttle bodies are balanced and the battery is fully charged.

Then, when you venture in with Tune ECU for the first time, make sure all the sensors are working (it'll give readings for them all and trouble codes for any that aren't).  Then write down all the readings and copy your ECU tune before changing anything.  That way you can always go back to where you started.

Sounds daunting, but it's not if you take your time, just ask Hassan from Turkey  :D

Mustang might move this to the Girly section BTW...

[Totos Tiger]

I am trying to get ready for my first trip and I think I or thought I had most everything sorted out well enough for the trip.  Then I put a voltmeter on it.

I thought I fixed my charging woes when I put a Rick's Voltage regulator on it.  The stator had been changed 6 months earlier.  I made sure it was not shorted between the phases or from phase to ground.

Soldered the new voltage regulator in incorporating the voltage fix while I was at it.

It seems to run and start OK but the voltage reading scare me especially right after I start it.  The voltage will dip under 12 Volt a little under I wrap it up a little.

Once I start riding, the voltage will fluctuate a little but eventually stabilize about 14.5-14.7 volts.

I also added some running lights.  I thought it would handle 110 Watts.  NO WAY.   It looks like this will just kill it.  Should it be able to handle this?

So I am wondering if my battery is not so great.

What should the stand voltage be with nothing on?
What should it be with the switch and headlights on, engine off.
At Idle?
Running?

[akendall1966]

Fully charged a typical lead acid battery will be 12.6-12.8v no load, discharged with a load it could be as low as 10.5v.

14.5v is a typical charging voltage so that sounds ok.

If the battery can crank the motor briskly it is producing good current so is probably ok, a possible symptom of a battery which has good voltage but poor current production is weak electrolyte. I had this on the 595 which fell over and lost some battery fluid. Topping up with di water left the fluid too dilute. With care you can pour out the fluid and refill with new battery acid to restore the electrolyte, recharge and current production is good again.

You should check you charging current too making sure the alternator / regulator and wiring are good. Without flow of current into the battery it wont charge, as you turn lights etc on instead of the alternator powering them it will fall to the battery. Given your mods to the regulator i would check carefully. The regulator sounds like it is doing its job of regulating the voltage but if it cant produce sufficient current your not going to get far without trouble.

Hope that helps

[oxnsox]

Based on what else you've said I'd look at getting a new battery.
At the every least at least you'll know it's OK.
The battery may appear ok on a simple voltage check, but it may not be able to hold or accept a charge. If it's had a charging issue in the past the battery will have been stressed.

When my battery went, earlier this year, I could usually manage a start but it ran like a bag farts. Replaced the battery when I got near a supplier and it was like getting the old Girly back. 12min tune to put out the light and been ok since.

[Totos Tiger]

I should have specified that is has an AGM battery that was new in October 2010 and then basically set all winter.  AGM batteries have a slightly higher voltage.  It has very little run time on it.

I did charge it up last night and all the voltages went up.  The idle voltage is now about 12.6 to 13 volt and the running voltage was as high as 14.9.  I think the running voltage is not supposed to exceed 14.7.

I'll watch it to see if the voltage when I start it goes down for day to day to see if that indicates a battery not charging or not holding a charge.

Thank you