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Chain/Sprocket replacement

Started by 97tiger885, April 19, 2011, 11:40:08 PM

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BruKen

Been there, done that, bent a snap-on torque bar, replaced it under lifetime guarantee, and cut the nut off with a angle grinder. It's cheaper than hernia repairs and less dangerous than having an pneumatic impact driver socket shatter on you too.

97tiger885

Quote from: "BruKen"Been there, done that, bent a snap-on torque bar, replaced it under lifetime guarantee, and cut the nut off with a angle grinder. It's cheaper than hernia repairs and less dangerous than having an pneumatic impact driver socket shatter on you too.

That was the end result.  I tried leverage...overnight even...no results.



I tried the hammer and chisel route...no results.



I tried heating, followed by leverage and the hammer and chisel...nothing.

Finally, it was the RoboZip with the angle grinder attachment.  See above for photo.  At first, I thought...no problem...I will cut into the sprocket.  It is done anyway...then I thought hhmmm...why doesn't the sprocket spin with the axle.  It can't be just a press fit...there must be teeth.  I looked at the new sprocket...sure enough, teeth.  That meant cutting thru into the sprocket but outside the diameter of the teeth or cutting partway into the nut inside the diameter of the teeth and using a chisel to shed the nut.  I chose the second method.

Cut 1:



Cut 2:



Cut 3:

Hmmmmm, no pic available.  I then hit it with lots of PB Blaster and whacked it with the chisel...spun right off.



With victory comes the pieces:



I am now at the the stage of putting on the new sprocket and chain.  The Motion Pro kit is in my mailbox, the gasket is waiting at Capital Area Triumph, the new nut is on order and I am still waiting on the tire.  Now I need to figure out how to use the rivet tool.



Nothing on the outside broken, threads intact.  The question is whether I broke anything inside with all the pounding and twisting.

To be continued.

CoolHandLuke

Glad you got it sorted.  It looks like nothing would have shifted it.

97tiger885

Any thoughts on the use of anti-seize on the threads of the front sprocket nut? How about between the nut and the sprocket?

++++++
Jon

JetdocX

Blue loctite would be better there.  Helps hold the nut fast while also sealing the threads. :wink:
From parts unknown.

97tiger885

Anything special about the nut holding on the sprocket?  I ask because of the following:



Is this wear?  Another shot:




The tire is in...still waiting for the nut.  If the nut is nothing special, then I can use the one I bought.

++++
Jon

Mustang

the original nut is counter bored so that when you tighten it it tightens against the sprocket and not the shaft

97tiger885

Quote from: "Mustang"the original nut is counter bored so that when you tighten it it tightens against the sprocket and not the shaft

Does this mean I should definitely wait for the counter-bored nut?...or it would be good but not necessary to have a counter-bored nut?

++++++++
Jon

Mustang

you need the counterbore ..................

97tiger885

The mc is back together and on the road.  The final issue is getting the shift linkage right.  First attempt gave me 2 thru 6.  I adjusted the rod and got 1 thru 6 but it is not quite right.





Anybody see anything here?

Could someone post a photo of a linkage so I have a comparison shot?  

Thanks for all the help.  And Mustang...be afraid...be very, very afraid...anything you can fix in 3 hours I can fix in 3 weeks.

+++++++
JonC

Mustang

move the bell crank on the shifter shaft 1 notch or spline 1 way or the other and it will be back where it feels right for you .

Colonel Nikolai

When I changed my sprockets I used a 1/2" drive 16" breaker and a thick 6'  pipe. It took all my strength to finally move it.

I think the PO had recently changed the set which is why I didn't have your problem.

I changed the set myself because I realized that rubber block on the underside of the chain run had been missing and that finger of steel was running against the chain for who knows how long (I'd put about 500 miles myself on the chain in that condition) so I felt like I couldn't trust the chain anymore so I changed out the whole apparatus.

If someone reads this and doesn't understand what I mean by the "rubber block" thing, please ask. It's unique to the Steamer model. Don't want you to lose a chain while in motion!
Mostly commuting around town on the Steamer these days.

97tiger885

In mid-April I started a chain/sprocket replacement.   I had to cut off the sprocket nut; so, I ordered a new one.  Triumph NA was out of stock.  The nut finally rolled in on the 10th of this month.  I am so very glad the local shop had a spare nut from a parts bike.   I now have a spare.

Bob Tosi

I used a 1/2 in drive 24 in braker and I 3ft piece of pipe and mine came right off/
Don't ever sell a Steamer !Steamers Rule!"

D-Fuzz

I did the chain & sprocket job yesterday.  I too have a slight issue with the shifter now that it is back together.  I have all the gears, but when I push the shift lever down (like to shift into 1st gear) there isn't any spring tension to bring it back up to it resting position.  If I move the shifter up, it is fine.  I didn't mess around at all in that area, so I can't see why things would have changed.  Any thoughts?
Scott

1996 Tiger 885, black