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How to Turn your OEM exhaust into a Homemade TOR can

Started by tigergotcha, July 03, 2011, 06:52:45 PM

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tigergotcha

I had the opportunity to buy a used standard can for my Girly at a very reasonable price. I'd like to keep it as it is, and modify my older one to let the engine breathe better...

My goal is to let fumes flow a bit more effortless (like in the TOR one), while keeping sound to an acceptable level.

Any suggestions? I know some of us did it before.... :wink:

metalguru

If you poke a wire through the tailpipe into the can you will feel a stop. This is a core plug baffle directing the exhaust into the can to take out some sound. This needs to be removed. Some have a second plug and some don't but general rule is remove all plugs. You will now have a TOR pipe. This can be done by the proper way ie a hole cutter for metal, or the animal way with a lump of sharpened steel bar and a big hammer, as per Harley mods!
If that isn't noisey enogh then remove the end plate, 3 screws, and using the core drill, cut another hole above the tail pipe. Anymore holes and it will start getting real noisy and attract the wrong attention.
A good idea once you start modding the can is to install a TOR map in the ecu via TuneECU as the better sound is complimented by the off road tune with a noticeable gain in performance.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

tigergotcha

Thanks metalguru. Perfect howto guide!

My primary goal is not sound but to check differences in performances with less exhaust backpressure; as for intake I have K&N filter + removed baffle. I've been
using TOR maps (the Triumph one, and the two from SA_rider) in the last 6 months (tested all three). Even with stock can there's a hell of a difference (btw I choose AFMod2)...

I will let you know with which can if I get better overall performances with TOR tunes.

metalguru

I 'doctored' my standard can in stages and at each stage of metal removal the performance increased. (Butt dyno). I happen to come by a Carbon Can Co 3 sided can and that with the baffle removed is the best performance improvement.

have a look in here too

http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,9326 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,9326)
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

rhubarb

Quote from: "metalguru"If you poke a wire through the tailpipe into the can you will feel a stop. This is a core plug baffle directing the exhaust into the can to take out some sound. This needs to be removed. Some have a second plug and some don't but general rule is remove all plugs. You will now have a TOR pipe. This can be done by the proper way ie a hole cutter for metal, or the animal way with a lump of sharpened steel bar and a big hammer, as per Harley mods!
If that isn't noisey enogh then remove the end plate, 3 screws, and using the core drill, cut another hole above the tail pipe. Anymore holes and it will start getting real noisy and attract the wrong attention.
A good idea once you start modding the can is to install a TOR map in the ecu via TuneECU as the better sound is complimented by the off road tune with a noticeable gain in performance.

Hi Ya, I have a 2001 955i.
OK, excuse me for being stupid but i removed my end trim ( 3 X screws ) and expected to remove baffles and plugs, but it was welded together. How do you remove the plugs ?
I,m planning on fitting K&N filter and off road tune.

Cheers

metalguru

The core plug is exactly that, it is a round plug of steel contained within the can and its location is found by poking some thin wire into the tail pipe and into the can, it is about 2/3 of the length of the can from the tail pipe. It diverts the exhaust gas into the absorbtion part of the standard can.
When the end cap is removed all that can be seen is the tail pipe and the end of the can which is indeed welded. It is this end plate that can be drilled. All this will do is increase the noise and make exhaust a bit freer flowing. It did work for me with some map adjustments on my 855. My 955 has benefited by fitting a Carbon Can Co end can.
TBH most guys have found the standard air filter works a treat and the K&N is just expensive gimick. While you are in the air box don't forget to remove the baffle plate, plenty of info about it on this site.
Make sure you have a complete understanding of what you are about to do BEFORE attempting any mods to the exhaust, air box or map.
2013 Explorer
2006 Rocket 3
2004 Tiger Lucifer Orange
2001 Adventurer. (Like new).
1993 DR200
1977 Kawa Z1000A1 (Had from new)
1972 BSA A65L
1960 Norman Nippy
1952 Royal Enfield Ensign MK1
2 Crossers
I may as well do it, as I'm gonna get blamed for it anyway.

rhubarb

Cheers Metalguru.
Best get the drill out, I miss the sound of a stubby can but I cant justify spending hard earn cash on a new can when i just got a new bike.
 :lol:

Mustang

this thread has been added to the Girly how to sticky thread .

thanks metalguru   :thumbsup

Stubert

Hi everybody,

I must be being thick today but after reading the thread 3 times i still don't know how to get the plugs out of the exhaust?

I can see the plate(which i presume is the plug) about halfway down the pipe. No way to get a holesaw down there and if i knock out the plug with a FBH and a big bar where does the plug go? will if fall out the link pipe end?

Sorry if i have missed something easy but i can't seem to get my head round it

 :D

Ta

Stu
2003 955i Black

This Space For Rent

daveb

this post is interesting to me as I have been searching for a TOR silencer, but very difficult to find.  

I used the big bar and hammer on a cruiser exhaust for someone in work, but the baffle plate was more like a 'butterfly' and the bar just opens out the butterfly tab to create a larger hole.

so with the standard can the baffle plus has to be removed on girlies?

off to me shed to have a  look at my end can.

daveb

just wondering if it is possible to just drill a series of holes in the blanking plate?

Stubert

In the end i bought a second hand standard end can and then just got a big length of M10 bar and a FBH and smashed some holes into the blanking/baffle plate.  :violent1

It sounds very nice now, a barking/burble  :thumbsup it the best way to describe it and i have some of the plate still there so more noise is avalible if i want.

I also drilled a hole into the end of the inner end plate but decided it just sounded like the zorst was blowing. So that got welding back up.

I think i will run it for a while, see how i like the noise and then invest in a TuneECU thingy and upload the TOR map. :XXcomputer

2003 955i Black

This Space For Rent

daveb

how is the Tiger Running at the moment, I am still interested in this modification.  so I been looking at  long 10mm drill bits.

http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&q=10mm+drill+bit&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&biw=1280&bih=681&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12546822875219497747&sa=X&ei=Z1NHULHCDOLO0QWKmYGQAQ&ved=0CEsQ8wIwAQ

deepsouthtiger

If anyone else is interested in doing this mod, I have a stock 2005 standard can that can be had for cheap, if you wanna "try" it but don't want to tank your original can if you don't like the sound. :-)
PM me if interested.
The difference between genius and stupidity is genius has its limits

jch

I also found another stock pipe for my Girly with the intent of modifying for better sound. Thinking I am going to drill a couple of holes in the inner plate. Anyone done this mod recently?  Also what is with the riveted guard on the pipe. I think I am going to drill out the rivets so I can use the guard on either pipe.