My 2001 Tigers rings are bad. I am looking at used engine and thought I could use a 2002 Daytona Engine with my 2001 Tiger valves and throttle botties.
Was looking at this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170905304309?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/170905304309?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
Price is cheaper than rings, bearing and gaskets combined from BikeBandit.com (http://bikebandit.com)
The head is differnent than mine, it has the small stick coils. But, I think the crank and transmission are the same. Minus the paint :eusa_dance
I know you guys have oppinions on this... let me know.
Looks ok the gearshift is by linkage so when fitted to the Tiger will be reversed GP shift. Good when you get used to it.
Will be a mix and match for the injectors, may need to make up some blanks, or tap a thread and seal with screws.
Change the cam cover for the Tiger.
Quote from: metalguru on September 24, 2012, 03:05:42 PM
Will be a mix and match for the injectors, may need to make up some blanks, or tap a thread and seal with screws.
Change the cam cover for the Tiger.
I plan on using my current head, throttle bodies and injectors... I am really concerned about my 2001 Tiger head fitting a 2002 Gearbox.
Beat this one to death guys... I hate spending money.
If you have money to burn then use your head etc, as new gaskets are required at great expense from Triumph.
If you use Daytona head you need to blank the injector 'holes' in the head by cutting a thread and fitting suitable blanks, cheaper by far and less work.
Gearbox main components are similar except for reversed shift, can change it over to the Tiger internals but costs a fortune in gaskets...don't ask.
As far as engine cases go only the later girlies had the 1050 cases.
Just sayin
I don't see how you figure it's cheaper to use a ebay daytona motor than to do a RING job on yours
the liners are probably fine on your motor and a ring set is 85 bucks , you dont need the entire gasket set , in fact you can get away with only replacing the head gasket for around 70 bucks and a tube of hylomar under 30 bucks .
you can do a ring job for under 200 bucks
that ebay motor that you know nothing about is going to cost 700 plus 260 shipping and you will still need to buy head gasket and tube of hylomar to swap your head onto it .
you don't need bearings to do a ring job as the liners come out and access to the pistons and rings is easy without having to even open the bottom end .
less than 200 bucks to fix yours vs. over a thousand for the ebay motor when all's said and done , you tell me which is the better route to take .................
Quote from: Mustang on September 24, 2012, 09:01:21 PMyou can do a ring job for under 200 bucks
Mustang, do you replace the crank and connecting bearings when you do a ring job?
nope not unless they are bad .............
That's good to know... I figured being that deep you would just do bearings too.
Thanks Mustang! :notworthy
Just out of interest.......
These engines seldom suffer from ring wear and was wondering what the origin was for diagonosing ring wear?
Could just save abucket load of work and expense......... :thumbsup
Joe Dirt, I too am curious as to what brought you to the diagnosis of bad rings?
Burns oil...
Runs rough...
Used compression gauge... 120psi on #1, 150psi on #2 and 150psi #3
I put a squirt of oil in cylinder and got 210psi on all cylinders.
I ran the bike with oil in cylinders and it was the best it has ran in a while.
I replaced battery, plugs, coils, regulator, stator, shimmed valves and replaced TPS sensor in the attempt of tracking down rough running... i finally got a compression gauge and did test above.
Thanks for the info. Looks like i may need to do same. Mine to burns oil, idles rough, and the oil has a fuel smell. :BangHead
Out of curiosity what kind of mileage do you guys have on your bikes that are suffering from oil burning and low compression?
I did the Rings on mine.
Thread somewhere around.
The reason some bikes burn oil is that the
girlies are sensitive to having the oil checked regulalry.
I ran mine at high speeds on an extremely hot day
and neglected to check the oil and ran it low.
Easy enough job and not very expensive.
Just time consuming and don't put the
camshafts in backwards :violent1
I also have the tube of hylomar if you need it.
Quote from: zombie2 on September 26, 2012, 10:04:35 PM
I also have the tube of hylomar if you need it.
Thanks for the offer Zombie... I bought a tube off eBay. :pottytrain2
I have my 995i on my work bench pictured below.
(http://stievenart.com/pics/DSCF1273.JPG)
After viewing your picture it looks like you did everything from the top of the motor. Also, after reading this post on Steamers led me to the same conclusion at:
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5924 (http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5924)
JetDocX went in through the top of his Steamer only as well. The Triumph service manual and Haines book would have you take the motor completly apart.
Also, do I need that fancy $200 BikeBandit sleeve puller or can i just use a steering wheel puller?
I've taken steamer liners out just by wiggle and lift , no special tool needed .
Quote from: Mustang on October 24, 2012, 05:24:08 AM
I've taken steamer liners out just by wiggle and lift , no special tool needed .
Yea... but you have the strength of 10 men! I have to rely on mechanical advantage because I am weak.
So, I have a 3 Jaw Puller that was made in Taiwan and cost $30USD. Used to pull bearings off shafts with it.
(http://www.stievenart.com/gifs/DSCF1277.JPG)
Maybe I can use it if I have to...
very doubtful .
you'll see once you get the head off .
I ended up taking the oil pan off and going in that way.
All,
I am having problems getting my cylinder head bolts off. I have a T50 torx socket that actually twisted on me using a 3/8" breaker bar. I then went to Harbor Freight and bought a 1/2" impact wrench with impact style T50 socket. The bolts aren't budging... :BangHead
Any suggestions?!? :wave
Quote from: JoeDirt on November 04, 2012, 07:05:38 PM
All,
I am having problems getting my cylinder head bolts off. I have a T50 torx socket that actually twisted on me using a 3/8" breaker bar. I then went to Harbor Freight and bought a 1/2" impact wrench with impact style T50 socket. The bolts aren't budging... :BangHead
Any suggestions?!? :wave
Success... I got my cylinder head off. :wings
I bought another T50 socket. It worked just fine.
(http://www.stievenart.com/gifs/sockets.JPG)
The one on the right was a Lisle and I thought it would be a better choice being that it was a single part construction. The steel on the Lisle was "soft". I am not sure why anyone would make a larger sized Torx that can be twisted. The one on the right is a Kobalt brand and worked just fine. It has a lifetime guarantee and I was going to try and break that one too. But, it worked. :qgaraduate
Quote from: Mustang on October 24, 2012, 05:24:08 AM
I've taken steamer liners out just by wiggle and lift , no special tool needed .
I ended up making my own tool to pull the sleeves. I used what is call a "test plug". Test plugs are used to test plumping. I bought a 3" one off eBay for $9.99 USD and used some Home Depot hardware for $4 bucks. Compaired to BikeBandits $200+ for the same. It worked like a champ.
(http://www.stievenart.com/gifs/sleevetool.JPG)
I like the tool!
liking your sleeve puller a lot.
Nice one.