hello to all my bike has behaved beautifully and I am very satisfied! but I have not been riding a lot lately because I had surgery and when I got the garage(underground) the battery was discharged and placed the charge again with Ctek. the next morning the bike cranking but never start until the battery (Dynavolt) go down and loses power,charge again etc, repeat several times and nothing! until came up the idea of connecting cables to the car (with it off) have more power cranking, but still nothing!. last year i put new fuel pump, the solenoid is working, i have fuel in thank ... it will be a long standing problem with oil? I'm confused! the bike has 20,000 Klm the plugs need to stay ok. thanks
all fuses are OK, not possible push down the bike because stay in a garage under the ground, need to climb aloot impossible :icon_cry:
Hope your recovery from surgery is all well.
How long has the bike not been used? Does Portugal have ethanol in the fuel? It's EU so I guess 5-10% ?
Quote from: Dutch on July 04, 2013, 10:11:56 AM
Hope your recovery from surgery is all well.
How long has the bike not been used? Does Portugal have ethanol in the fuel? It's EU so I guess 5-10% ?
hello Sir! we have unleaded 95 and 98! ethanol i dont know! but for sure the mafia put some water in fuel!or air!(and say is expensive because have good aditives)... the bike stay at garage maby 90 days without go out for run. but sometimes i start the bike in garage for work! but this time dont start! i dont know if is the faut battery or something else! i go now in garage because i have the charger in the battery, and i make one video then i put here for try to see the problem. thank you
Good afternoon! Now came the garage and had the battery charged with CTEK xs800 and try start the bike, but now no cranking!! :icon_eek: when I press the starter button the light goes off and on, and bike nothing cranking!i listen fuel pump... can someone please tell what will be? the fuses are ok, this deposit with 70% fuel, has oil! God help :icon_cry:
here is the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDM4fZbokAA&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5nOkgDLw9E&feature=youtu.be
Glad you have recovered from surgery and all fixed now.
I am taking a guess here as remote diagnosis has to go in steps.
It seems the interlock circuit is not connecting.
Try moving the sidestand switch in and out and spray with a small amount of lube, not WD40 but something like a teflon type spray and work the switch for a few minutes, then try to start with the stand in the up position.
The clutch switch is the next to give the same treatment.
There are many more possibilities as the battery left on the bike to go discharged can give many problem. It is good practice to use leads from car battery with this as it will give you more time for starting and there is less possibility of creating more faults.
The headlights are supposed to go out when you press the starter button as that switches a relay - so the starter button is making connection.
That relay is powered from the same cable as the starter solenoid so I would suggest either the solenoid or a bad connection.
i need to go at garagem see this in detail... is possible that the problem is also derived from flooded spark plugs? thanks
good night, now already walked around the bike!
-switches ok
-fuses ok
-starter engine i dont know... i gave some strokes with key and nothing
-turned once more the cables in car battery and nothing
-disassembled the solenoid and auditioned connecting the battery and works, as shown in this video at minute 7:20 ( snap of the magnet) so solenoid ok
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DYec1yFX3YI
test and so lack the starter and perhaps the last spring button starter this faulty, I think of that! some people said that if the battery is poor with the car cables connected the bike starts ... what you guys think?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSLtrI7bCzU
Reminds me of when mine would`nt start... thumb the starter and just got a click from the solenoid. My problem was with the wiring from the clutch switch... it had parted company just under the plastic shroud by the left fork, it was a black/ ground thats tied in with the solenoid/ starter, might be worth checking out for continuity if you have a multimeter or similar, the cockpit will need to be removed too to check it out fully.
I'd be working backwards,can you bump start the bike and does it run ok if you can?, regardless of power off the car and how your battery is I put a new one on,and then work through the wireing.
There is a thread on here about all the block connectors,mine has never seen a winters day in it's life but the pins were scabby when I open them up.
I know that for me, the starter will spin if the kickstand is down. Have you tried to take out the starter and connect it to the battery directly to see if it spins? That;s a sure fire way to test it.
Yeah i'd try to bump start it to see if it catches, get a few friends to push it if you can. Can be helpful in narrowing down the culprit. Also i'm sure you know, but don't ever have the the car running while jumping from it too much juice.
Cheers
hello, no i never star the car connected to the bike!! the problem here is if i press the start the bike don't crank and headlight goes off!!!but before it does cranking, but next minute dont crank anymore! i have new battery and tomorrow i go instal it and see what happens!! my bike never see winter!! so for me the cables need to work fine!!! perhaps the starter switch, but it put the headlight off so i assume the starter is good...make connection
the problem started when the bike stopped for long time... then I charged the battery and the bike trying to crank, but never start! and the batery goes flat... weak horn etc, so charge battery again... next day same thing,cranking and nothing! charge battery again... and next day i remember try jump start with car! so have more cranking power and for one time the bike almost start but die before that!
turn of and try again and no more cranking!!! only press starter and headlight goes off!!! :thumbsup
Reading your last summary, I think that the new battery is going to sort your problem :thumbsup
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on July 11, 2013, 10:14:17 PM
Reading your last summary, I think that the new battery is going to sort your problem :thumbsup
but weak battery with the help of the car should not start or wake up?
hello, new battery and the same problem!! i open starter button and is ok the spring is good! maby my alarm spy5000 giv a bad contact or something! but i have it turned off :icon_scratch:
Look at the attached.
You will see that when you press the starter button (17), current is supplied to both the starter solenoid (2) and the headlight cut out relay (5), on the white / red wire coming from the starter button (which changes to black before it reaches the solenoid).
In your second video, the headlights are on bright till you press the button when they go out completely. The dash lights however stay bright indicating that battery voltage is not dropping.
Therefore it MUST be the case that the button is supplying voltage to the W/R wire (as the headlights go out) and it follows that there is either a break between that and the solenoid OR that the solenoid is faulty OR that the clutch switch (7) is not working and providing a return path for the solenoid. Each of these can easily be tested with your multimeter.
Electrical problems only respond to a systematic and methodical approach.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e398/iansoady/bike/Tiger/circuit_zpsc6c0466a.jpg)
hello thanks for help!! and the regulator rectifier/current rectifier, nothing to do with the problem? i need to test, but i test the solenoid and its seems ok! need to see this switches then :thumbsup
for test the switches need to put multimeter gauge to less possible ohms? and see if have ohms is fauty right? need to have 0 for work?
No the reg/rec has nothing to do with starting at all.
Quote from: iansoady on July 12, 2013, 05:40:04 PM
You will see that when you press the starter button (17), current is supplied to both the starter solenoid (2) and the headlight cut out relay (5), on the white / red wire coming from the starter button (which changes to black before it reaches the solenoid).
Therefore it MUST be the case that the button is supplying voltage to the W/R wire (as the headlights go out) and it follows that there is either a break between that and the solenoid OR that the solenoid is faulty OR that the clutch switch (7) is not working and providing a return path for the solenoid. Each of these can easily be tested with your multimeter.
Ian you have just cofirmed what I said in my earlier post, but with added drawing :icon_salut:
rcg...all you did in the video was check the solenoid and not the wiring to it, so check the clutch switch and the wiring from it into the loom, as said earlier you will need to remove the cockpit to gain access to the loom connector block.
Have just been out and put the ignition on with lights and tried to start her without the clutch lever in...it did exactly what yours is doing.
so Pete you put money in the table for the clutch switch wiring? for this work i only have time monday. thanks
rcg....I`ll put a £1 on the table yes :icon_lol: as Ian has also pointed out with the help of the drawing how that bit of circuit works....or doesnt :icon_wink:
Best of luck in getting it sorted....frustration comes to mind :icon_cry:
Quote from: PeteH on July 13, 2013, 11:40:15 AM
rcg....I`ll put a £1 on the table yes :icon_lol: as Ian has also pointed out with the help of the drawing how that bit of circuit works....or doesnt :icon_wink:
Best of luck in getting it sorted....frustration comes to mind :icon_cry:
understand man! il go see this better next week! i need ride my bike!! :icon_evil: i will try to jump the clutch safety switch and see if the bike starts
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4V_XRa3h-jk
Ah the power of You Tube :icon_biggrin: seem to recall starting at the switch end myself, when I didnt get any joy it was time to start looking further down the loom, my problem was with the black wire(arrowed red) it was broben where it entered the crimp in the connector
Yeah I think the next test would be to make sure the starter solenoid is getting power when the start button is pushed. Should be pretty easy with your multimeter. I think you tested that the solenoid is functional but probably not getting power to activate it.
hello today I walked around the bike, I'm very sad! I disassembled the whole fairing and cables are all well and running/ swithes are ok!!! i jump start and the same!!!!! I had help from several people to try start into a descent and nothing! this guys only make funny of Triumph!!! tellme for buy a chinese Honda or BMW !!! :icon_evil: i bring the solenoid for home to try test again! im down!!! 2 years ago the same problem the bike never start(but cranking ) and is fuel pump issue, so new fuel pump!!! this press start only light go crazy and no cranking!!! oh man... :icon_frown:
RC, just a thought, do you speak much English (better than my Potugese I'll bet) and do you have Skype? We could fix up a Skype session which would be nearly the same as being there helping you.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on July 21, 2013, 12:53:15 PM
RC, just a thought, do you speak much English (better than my Potugese I'll bet) and do you have Skype? We could fix up a Skype session which would be nearly the same as being there helping you.
hello. English is universal language!!! skype (rcgomes84) thanks!! only one thing... today i test a solenoid conected to the battery and multimeter set to 2ohm and i think dont have continuty, because the multimeter only stays at 1, never go to 000!!! solenoid make the noise,but dont show continuity!! il post a video
if a have a faulty solenoid, when ii try to start the motocycle down the street(push start) the bike dont start... this is nothing to do with solenoid or is a possibility?? thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kk4RalUQt0g
That little clip clearly shows the solenoid isn't working (provided you don't have the meter on a very insensitive ohm setting - it should be on 10 ohm or so). You can hear the coil working but the points are probably burnt out.
As you can hear it clicking, did you also hear it when it was fitted to the bike?
I agree with Ian, the solenoid looks like it's done. The fact that it won't start on the button is probably the solenoid as you've just shown in the video.
But, as you suggest, the bike should start with a push so you still have a problem somewhere. And if it's not starting with a push (assuming the battery is good) then it's not the clutch or side stand wiring.
I've been away a while and haven't read the whole post, but assuming the battery is good, all the right lights come on when you turn the key, and you hear the fuel pump prime ( a whirring whining sound for about 5 seconds) you should be able to bump start it with a push. If all those things are right and it won't start, it points to a lack of spark, either because the fuse supplying the coils has blown (the coils get 12v from the ECU which grounds through the coil pack) or the crankshaft sensor is U/S. One other place to look is the two big plugs on the ECU. Check that all the pins are clean and not corroded.
hi, turn the meter in 20 ohms is the same result (1) dont have continuity.whn i try start bike only listen the fuel pump!! pull gas! i think the problem start after i try to jump start the bike with car battery help!! i remember the cables stay very hot! and maby burn something!!! because after try this then show up this problem! yes the bike in a push start doesnt work either. so maby is another things!!! because if only soneloid push starting is ok, and is not the case
i check the fuses in the litle box the start fuse 30amps is ok and the positive battery fuse 25 amps is also goog. is possible the main power relay?
witch is this fuse supplying the coils ?? i only see the fuses in this litle grey box and the battery positive cable fuse 25 amps and there is no broken fuses in the box
thanks
(http://s12.postimg.org/7byr1bxuh/Triumph_Tiger955iinstallation066.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7byr1bxuh/)
Have you had the plugs out and checked for a spark?
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on July 22, 2013, 01:24:33 AM
Have you had the plugs out and checked for a spark?
hi, no i dont check, but the bike have 21000 KLM, the spark plugs is supposed to last 25000 no? if i need to change them , i go to dealer because i dont like to Fu** the fuel plastic connectors like the last time!! it ended cost me a new fuel pump and new conectors, because i like to do all things alone!! :icon_mad: well but i have in homme 3 iridium so if i need replace them maby is the deal... because the bike after this cranks, almost start very difficulty (cranks for maby 5 seconds)
i go conect the solenoid back to place and then try to jump start with a screwdriver, if the bike cranks and dont start perhaps is plugs, because i think this plugs are original from 2004!!! this bike dont ride aloot only in vacations!! previous owner have bike colection and sell-me this for buy the Multiestrada 1200! and my case sometimes i pic up my litle brother crazy compressor bike scooter, good for city trafic and spend 3l100klm!, triumph is more for vacation trips or big weekends
the starter solenoid i can buy from ebay the from the first tigers 995 work in mine?? because have second hand cheap ones.
i dont see starter solenoid for sell in my triumph shop:
http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/
thanks :icon_salut:
after this movie all people are invited to come in Portugal, have meat and beer in table waiting!!! :thumbsup
So rcg, is it the solenoid? as in your first post you said that it was ok, also check out the links below for solenoids, check the year etc before ordering or I can ring them to check if they fit ok.
http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=304126&block_03=23772
http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/starter-motor-solenoid-universal-fit-17645-p.asp
The offer of beer and meat may have been taken a couple of years back as we holidayed in Sinterra :thumbsup
Quote from: PeteH on July 22, 2013, 11:43:07 PM
So rcg, is it the solenoid? as in your first post you said that it was ok, also check out the links below for solenoids, check the year etc before ordering or I can ring them to check if they fit ok.
http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=304126&block_03=23772
http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/starter-motor-solenoid-universal-fit-17645-p.asp
The offer of beer and meat may have been taken a couple of years back as we holidayed in Sinterra :thumbsup
hi,in the first posts i test the soneloid withdout multimeter... so i think is working because the magnet is cranking!!! but now i see no continuity!!! so i think solenoid is death!! but now have another problem the bike even with push start doesnt work so o think have another problems, maby the spark plug i need to test!! but bring out the fuel thank alone a lot of work!! only in weekend have time
is the down of Triumph... the dealer one day tell me this: triumph need a lot of work even for change something easy like air filter, is good for pay more hour ate mechanic, but the buyers like to avoid this, so the people go more for japs and germans, parts are more cheap and all people understand assemble very fast (because work with every day)
the squearedeals solenoid is different from mine!! mine is like this, need to have this conections, another solenoid is diffenrent cable conection
mine is this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RICKS-STARTER-SOLENOID-SWITCH-TRIUMPH-TIGER-955-1999-2006-/271156434499?item=271156434499&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f222ed643
Going back to the non-start RC, you have to follow basic principles. If it has spark and at the right time, it has fuel in roughly the right quantity, and compression it will at least cough.
In your case, if the plugs are wet after trying to bump start it, you can assume you have fuel.
If the plugs spark when you crank it (I know you can't crank it at the moment, but you can after you replace the solenoid assuming that is your fault.
The ECU will take care of the amount of fuel and when the spark is so no worries there.
Compression. If you haven't a compression tester, then you can at least check your valve clearances to ensure the valves are opening and closing as they should.
For all of these, you are going to have to take the tank off. And the valve cover. This is daunting for a beginner but can be done and there is plenty of information in the "how to" section.
Good luck with your search for a solenoid. :thumbsup
thanks! is this i need to do! someone please tell me the rates i need to have in in each cilinder? i have the compresiion gauge!! i go to change the spark for iridium for last maby 40K, and clean injectors! i like to try valve clean to but the manual dont show very good how to... for spark change need to take of fuel tank and air box :icon_mrgreen:
But first ting is conect the solenoid back to place and try to jump start with screwdriver, if bike cranks at least solenoid is for sure death i guess the death of solenoid i can assume is from the battery of the car conected burn the solenoid! because this happened after conected the cables! and i remember a lot of hot!! i talk now with dealer and they want 60€ for solenoid :icon_eek:!! the net is the best!! more cheap and come to the door :icon_mrgreen: here we need to pax big taxes rates for the goverment ho spent all money in cars and houses for there family and friends etc need to do a revolution, this people play with honest citizen face :icon_evil:
i will check the how to section :thumbsup
There won't be any need to clean the valves, just check the clearances.
Here's how:
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=1qv9v4slpht72lgg6lgps5hbr1;topic=5386.msg34259#msg34259
At your mileage it's almost certain they will all be ok so no need for the shim tool unless you find one or two out of tolerance.
thanks and what need to do for spark plug change? only tank off and airbox off? i search and people say need to have a special kind of socket for access the plug :S i only have 1/2 wrench and sockets...
the spark plugs is 18mm right?
thanks
Everything you need to get the plugs out is in the Triumph toolkit. Its located behind two rubber bands under the seat. And I mean the underside of the seat, not hidden among the frame Turn the seat over when you remove it. Memory is a bit foggy but almost certain its the pillion seat underside. :icon_scratch:
hey thanks man, i never look in this toolbox thank God i never need them!! i make aloot of bigtrips but everithing goes alright!1
i wil check this out :icon_biggrin:
this is very good post :eusa_clap
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5025
hello can someone can please confirm with the store, if this solenoid works on a Triumph Tiger 955? I already sent several emails with no response! and call from Portugal is lot of expensive!! the announcement they have very little information ...
dont show good info if fits all triumph bikes?
http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/starter-motor-solenoid-universal-fit-17645-p.asp
(Fits many Triumph Applications) which??
much obliged
I wil phone them tomorrow (Tuesday) but it does say to compare the image. Cant see it not working but you may need to change the switch wire connectors...stay tuned :icon_salut:
yes maby need to change, but is less, because the cheapest i see oem is 35pounds. yesterday i crank the bike using the screwdriver, so solenoid is realy death, i dont start the bike because aloot of bigspark smel a lot of burn :icon_lol:
next year or so i go for the 1050! i see the new one in the street, is like a copy of the GS... crazy tank 250Kg :icon_frown: the best 1200 for me is the Multiestrada but $$$$
Phoned them today and they have tried to send you an image of the solenoid, they confirm that in the picture the solenoid s in a rubber holder as is the OEM item, they reckon postage will be around £10 which puts the total not far short of a Triumph item. The connector to the switch wiring is a bullet connection so may need the loom end changing to accept these or chop them off and fit a connector/chocky block.
i understand!! yes i receive the email!! i will see if i need something from this site and made a good package for the 10 pounds shipping rate! thanks aloot! God bless! when i have the bike good il made a big trip! im crazy for this situation! and i have the bike in a garage next to other people so is not good for work in the bike! il go change the place for work without worries! thanks :thumbsup :icon_salut:
hello everyone, the bike already works!! :hat10 it was the solenoid! when I tried to push start the bike i have not enough slope and the tires were too down to gain speed...the burn solenoid was certainly due to my old battery be low amperage starting and when I connect the cable to the car and insisted a lot it burned the solenoid!! so for me car battery help never more!!
so the REAL problem was the battery!! if i buy at the first place one new i don't have solenoid problem!! but need to learn a lesson
now have another problem! the bike works, but the engine light comes on! someone will be able to know what it is? the bike was stopped long time, do not understand why the engine light on :icon_frown:. thank you
3 cycles of start, stop, hot,cold should sort it, or reset by dealer or TuneEcu
Quote from: metalguru on August 21, 2013, 12:20:47 AM
3 cycles of start, stop, hot,cold should sort it, or reset by dealer or TuneEcu
but you understand why this happends?i remember to disconect and conect the ECU big switch! today i do a ride and rides fine, but light stay on! and a bring back to garage!! my oil is castrol gps 10w40 now and have maby 700klm. thanks for help
Engine light is on because the battery has been off the bike. After three times riding till it's hot then stop, cool down then ride again it will go out. If it doesn't then you need to read the code with TUNEECU.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on August 21, 2013, 10:03:43 AM
Engine light is on because the battery has been off the bike. After three times riding till it's hot then stop, cool down then ride again it will go out. If it doesn't then you need to read the code with TUNEECU.
yes, but for warm up the bike 3 times need to start the fan to? or no need? where to buy the cable for tune eco? thanks
I think I did tell you that at the beginning of July: "
That relay is powered from the same cable as the starter solenoid so I would suggest either the solenoid or a bad connection."
However, glad it's now going.
The fan doesn't have to come on but that's the easiest way of knowing it's been up to temperature. Just leave it idling till the fan comes on, go for a ride, put it away. Repeat twice more.
yes you did! but i put this post in another foruns to and my head is like a puzzle at this time! need to have the sure!! but i save a lot of money i no need to go in dealer for repair, because here is like mafia,you have problem for 30$ but this is not money for mecanics lolol so they fu** something in the bike for tell have more problem!!! if people are serious and honnest they are Fu** up with this people! so i like to make my repairs alone and learn how to!!and until now never had them! i like to pay in serious people not gypsy like!!and here mecanics only if you are friend of them!
thanks :thumbsup i go right away to garage go ride!! i buy the new helmet for hot days. the nolan n43 air go try this today
Hi, today i did a trip 200k very good!!! i try to make this thing stop the bike, but it takes aloot for cooling! today have hot weather!! then i stop and look for the bike and think!
-very good bike, more Riding c'mon heheh :hat10
im very happy today!! i need to find that cable for the Tuneboy, because ride and wait its difficult to me :icon_mrgreen: but only find the triumph Kit in tuneboy site and is 300$ :thumbsup
(http://s24.postimg.org/7walu59dt/Foto1117.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/7walu59dt/)
Not TUNEBOY, use TUNEECU, it's free!
There's a link to where to buy the cable somewhere on here.
you have the right Bixxer! another guy tell me for purchase tuneboy or rapidbike
one question, when the bike was stopped without battery connected etc, e disconnect the ECU big switch and connect again! this may cause loose the Tors map info? i don´t understand this full injected! i only have YZ´s cross Bike and another carburetor . thanks
Okay. The ECU saves the trim data when you turn the engine off. If you listen carefully you will hear a click from under the seat about 4 seconds after the engine stops. That is the ECU shutting itself down after saving the data. Disconnecting the battery will not affect the map or the trims so you have no worries there.
But, if you have a weak battery the ECU can't raise the voltage high enough to save the trims properly so then the trims can be corrupted. That is why it is important always to have a strong battery. If this happens, fit a good battery then reload the map using TuneEcu and that will fix it.