I decided to check my valve clearances because I have no firm proof that they have ever been checked since the bike was new, and I have a 3000 mile Euro road-trip coming up next month. Mileage is 17.5k, I bought it at 12.1k a year ago from a non-Triumph dealer who said they had serviced it to the book, but I don't know for sure that they checked the valve clearances. Anyway I checked them just now, please see results below. None of the clearances were below spec, but 6 were over spec. My question is, looking at the measurements below, and assuming that the tolerances will close up with mileage, do you think it is necessary to correct the out-of-spec clearances with new thicker shims, or are the over spec amounts negligible? Thanks in advance for any input.
Ian
EXH Cyl.1 0.18mm 0.17mm Cyl.2 0.19mm 0.21mm Cyl.3 0.225mm 0.205mm (Book spec 0.15-0.20mm)
INL Cyl.1 0.145mm 0.16mm Cyl.2 0.14mm 0.145mm Cyl.3 0.165mm 0.175mm (Book spec 0.10-0.15mm)
it's fine
run it , they are not out enough to even bother with
Thanks very much Mustang. Ian. :thumbsup
Also worth repeating Ian, loose is good tight is bad; the reverse of the old days of tappets. Unless you have a bad shim that wears through the hard surface (and I've never seen a shim do that) the only wear is the valve / valve seat slowly wearing which moves the stem up the guide and closing the gap. So slightly big gaps will come into tolerance in time. Mine has 28k miles and never needed any shims doing.....
Thanks BB for the confirmation. As I type this in my garage I've just got the cam cover back on and all the plugs, coils etc. are in, just linked the tank up to the side of the girl ready for throttle body balancing. Happy days! I did the airbox mod while I had everything apart, I have a standard pipe but with a hole smacked into the baffle plate half way down. The hole is about 1 1/2" in diameter. Do you reckon I'd need to do the TOR remap? Thanks again. Ian. ps I'm running a 19 tooth front sprocket. :wave
With an adapted standard can and 19t sprocket, youmay as well go the whole hog and do the airbox mod and the TOR map. ChrisCanning swaers by it. :icon_biggrin:
:hat10 Thanks, I'll get that done next week. When I did the TB balance the IACV decided to dismantle itself, I just got it back together by gently screwing the plunger in and carefully pushing it into its housing, hope I haven't cocked it up. Should I have unplugged the electronic part of the IACV aswell as taking off the plunger housing? Just so I know for next time. Hopefully this tune will really make the old girl fly :icon_salut: Ian
Ian and I have both accidentally disassembled the IACV and needed a new one. You did well to retain all the bits. Just check it cycles ok with the IACV test in TuneEcu. Make as sure as you can that you have no IACV tube air leaks. They need to be a tight fit on the spigots and cracks in the corrugations are not unknown.
I'd definitely have a TOR map blown in and for what it cost get a proper open pipe secondhand stuff is peanuts now,you will find it'll pull a 19 easy,good job you haven't made the mistake that some muppets do with running a 19 and no airbox mod it'll fall flat on it's face,but you have obviously done your homework :icon_biggrin:,just checked my files :icon_rolleyes: I see the airbox mod has around since 03.
Ah, I read it it again and see you did the airbox mod already.
Hoy Canning, I'll let the muppet comment go past, I can't be arsed......
Quote from: SilverTiger on July 25, 2013, 02:22:42 PM
:hat10 Thanks, I'll get that done next week. When I did the TB balance the IACV decided to dismantle itself, I just got it back together by gently screwing the plunger in and carefully pushing it into its housing, hope I haven't cocked it up. Should I have unplugged the electronic part of the IACV aswell as taking off the plunger housing? Just so I know for next time. Hopefully this tune will really make the old girl fly :icon_salut: Ian
If you haven't already put it back together put a K+N in as well it all helps the bike breath better.
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If you haven't already put it back together put a K+N in as well it all helps the bike breath better.
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Matter of opinion there Chris,
Without gettting this going again, K&Ns are ok at flowing air but the std filter has much more surface area which after the engine has sucked the oil from the K&N, will FILTER a lot better.
Will try to find the diagram and post.
For benefit of others, here is the comparison graph of dirt passed by sample air filters.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/ISO5011DirtCapture.jpg) (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/metalguru1/media/ISO5011DirtCapture.jpg.html)
The Delco filter is the same paper type material used in all thier filters and by most filter manufacturers.
I did decide to stick with the stock air filter in the end as it looks like it must have been replaced at 12k miles when I bought the bike 16 months ago. When I was a yoof we used to put K&Ns on all our two strokes (RDs, Kwacker triples etc.) but we had to spray them with a special oil supplied with the filter. Anyone remember that? The oil was supposed to help trap dust and dirt particles by some kind of static charge IIRC. I lost count of the number of my mates pistons I had to replace because of holes burnt through the tops of 'em after mucking about with filters, spannies etc. and not rejetting correctly. Very happy days, if a little mental :icon_biggrin:
I'm doing the TuneECU work this week so I'll check that the IACV performs as expected. Thanks guys for all the tips. Ian.
Well I guess it's all relative if you had a graph for how safe it is travelling in a car compared to bike the bike would into oblivion but it doesn't stop us does it.
When it comes to cleaning and looking after bikes I'm happy to admit I'm anal,who else has a twin tub washing machine in the garage to clean the clothes that I clean the bikes with :icon_redface:,I've had my Tiger in bits dozens of times checked and triple checked for shit south of the filter and I'm more than happy,If I lived in a desert or planned to do 250,000 miles on the bike I might have a change of heart but I don't plan on doing either.
The tiger is slowly(very) falling behind the game I've managed to keep abreast of the times with wheels suspension brakes gearing and when I fitted a K+N there was a marked difference in pick up and I liked that a lot,if I thought there was a major price to pay for using it I wouldn't but I don't beleave there is, graph or no graph,and this from a guy who never rides a bike in the winter but strips his brakes and pads out 3 times a year to clean e'm and the bike has had(at least) 15 oil changes in 12 years.
Chris I take your point. I only manage to do about 8000 miles a year on my bikes, with probably 6000 on the Tiger. If the K&N did let a bit more crap through it would take a lot of years to do any harm wouldn't it. Next time I service her I'll probably go for a Pipercross or K&N. Cheers.
I use a K+N on the Tiger and the 1100s because that is a different design from stock,but the other two I can get DNA's for both which I prefer.