On my maiden voyage the bike made a strange noise and I lost engine power? Pulled over, tried to restart and the bike would turn over but no fire? Fuses are good, fuel is flowing from the tappet. When I turn it over it makes a sound like its releasing air? If I give it WOT the air sound stops.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Cheers,
Mark
Quickly checked the clutch safety switch and it's not that..... :icon_study:
try the sidestand switch................. :hat10
Quote from: Mustang on August 12, 2013, 04:21:48 AM
try the sidestand switch................. :hat10
That's my next thought. However, will it still turn over even if there is a fault in the switch?
yep IIRC, but no fire
Check your spark plugs.
Last summer my middle plug back all the way out. The bike still ran, but it was coughing and had a airy-sucky noise to it. I rode it 30 miles home on two cylinders. Now I don't leave home without a proper spark plug wrench.
SSS operational. Checked for spark on #3, check. Moving onto to carbs I guess....... :icon_study:
Sounds like the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) also called the ignition pickup coil. At least that's what I'm thinking has just happened to my Tiger with the exact same symptoms, well not exactly I think I have carby trouble too! I had this once on my Speed Triple, forum post about that over here - http://www.triumphrat.net/t3-sport-touring-forum/109255-it-just-died-o.html#post1260455 (http://www.triumphrat.net/t3-sport-touring-forum/109255-it-just-died-o.html#post1260455).
Worth checking the crank sensor GAP..0.7mm. Plug(as already said)? As silkie says,could be CPS? But bike normally restarts after it cools down. Could be defective ECU/CDI. My Trident used to just die,then re-start several minutes later. Turned out to be the 'Black Box' :icon_cry: Embarrassing when I was out with friends on their 'super' reliable Jap stuff :icon_rolleyes:..'carry on.I'll catch you up' :icon_redface:
Quote from: HeavyHustler on August 11, 2013, 07:52:54 PM
On my maiden voyage the bike made a strange noise and I lost engine power? ....
So.. what was it???
Since then I have found that there are many things that need attention and it's at the 24k mile service interval. So I plan on doing the following:
carb rebuild
check the valves
check all connectors(grease em!)
new airbox/filter
fuel filter
reset ride height back to stock and adjust
LED all lights and upgrade headlight bulbs
refresh the rear shock, maybe a new spring
refresh front forks w/ gold valves and springs (later)
handle bar swap
crash bar install
repair fairing hole
replace spinning tank nut deal
center stand install (done!)
head light cage covers
replace the gasket below the front sprocket (leaks like a siv!)
starter/batt wire upgrade to 4gauge
***nology hotwires coil upgrade***(possibly)
I also found the subframe was broke on both sides and poorly welded so I'll be reinforcing that.....
some stickers of course!
AND a spit & shine
ahhhhhhhhhh......... was blind.......... but now I see........ and apparently now you see more than you expected orginally. You'll get her all sorted. It can be slow journey but you will. I got to believe that........ my sorting is in its hmmm. 5th year?
the clutch pushrod seal , also located behind the front sprocket cover , is usually the culprit for spewing out oil .
also if the o ring on the alternator is torn oil leaks down and looks like its coming from sprocket cover , but that is usually only a few drips now and then .
Quote from: Mustang on September 17, 2013, 02:46:45 PM
the clutch pushrod seal , also located behind the front sprocket cover , is usually the culprit for spewing out oil .
also if the o ring on the alternator is torn oil leaks down and looks like its coming from sprocket cover , but that is usually only a few drips now and then .
Mine looks like someone just ignored it for a very long time........ :icon_rolleyes:
Fit a Scottoiler, then you'll have so much oil and crud you won't notice an itty bitty leak :ImaPoser
:iagree lol
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on September 19, 2013, 11:52:08 AM
Fit a Scottoiler, then you'll have so much oil and crud you won't notice an itty bitty leak :ImaPoser
Funny thing with all the oil and crud coming from the cover not a single drop has gotten on the chain! :icon_rolleyes:
Ok. It's been a while since I posted anything on the Tiger.
So I had the rear shock rebuilt and installed it. Threw on the center stand. Powder coated a few bits.
Swapped in some LED's all around. Refurbed the carbs, new o-rings etc.
Tried starting it.......a few pops and some smoke.
Except there is lots of air blasting out the back of the carb? This is the intake side, yes? So nothing should come out, correct?
Also when I turn on the aux fuel line gas starts coming out the back of the carb even though I haven't touched the throttle?
Also I don't have all the exhaust or the airbox on either.
The LED's don't all light up either? I recall someone mentioning they only work one way?
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your patience! :icon_scratch: :icon_study:
Quote from: HeavyHustler on October 17, 2013, 03:26:00 AM
Ok. It's been a while since I posted anything on the Tiger.
So I had the rear shock rebuilt and installed it. Threw on the center stand. Powder coated a few bits.
Swapped in some LED's all around. Refurbed the carbs, new o-rings etc.
Tried starting it.......a few pops and some smoke.
Except there is lots of air blasting out the back of the carb? This is the intake side, yes? So nothing should come out, correct?
Also when I turn on the aux fuel line gas starts coming out the back of the carb even though I haven't touched the throttle?
Also I don't have all the exhaust or the airbox on either.
The LED's don't all light up either? I recall someone mentioning they only work one way?
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your patience! :icon_scratch: :icon_study:
Plug leads in the right order????
Turn the LEDs round half a turn, they should work then.
Fuel coming out of the carbs means the floats are stuck or you forgot to put something back
Fuel coming out of the carbs means the floats are stuck or you forgot to put something back
[/quote]
As BB says,but ,as what happened to me,float assembly dropped down! Maybe you didn't push home correctly? Another carb strip-down :icon_frown:
Quote from: HeavyHustler on October 17, 2013, 03:26:00 AM
Refurbed the carbs, new o-rings etc.
Tried starting it.......a few pops and some smoke.
Except there is lots of air blasting out the back of the carb? This is the intake side, yes? So nothing should come out, correct?
Also when I turn on the aux fuel line gas starts coming out the back of the carb even though I haven't touched the throttle?
Also I don't have all the exhaust or the airbox on either.
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your patience! :icon_scratch: :icon_study:
it's flooded causes the pops and smoke ,carbs aint right try again....................
it'll never start or run without the exhaust pipes and airbox in place .............
what the hell is an AUX fuel line ???????????
air coming out the carbs is a good sign you have intakes that are at zero clearance .
Have you checked the valves for clearance ?
this was an ebay bike wasn't it ? caveat emptor !
Ok. I'll throw everything back on and I'll pull the carbs and have a look at the floats. :icon_study:
The aux fuel line is one of those Motion Pro Auxilary fuel tanks.
Did a compression test too- 170/165/170 :thumbsup
Bike is from ADV rider....... :icon_rolleyes:
Cam chain tensioner is busted up. Found it when checking the valves this morning......... :(
that would explain the air pressure back thru the carbs .....
one or both cams have jumped teeth on the sprocket and your valve timing is out of whack .
also explains why it won't start or run .
you still need to fix the carbs though ....... :thumbsup
Quote from: Mustang on October 17, 2013, 07:09:05 PM
that would explain the air pressure back thru the carbs .....
one or both cams have jumped teeth on the sprocket and your valve timing is out of whack .
also explains why it won't start or run .
you still need to fix the carbs though ....... :thumbsup
OK! All is not lost. LOL! I am learning a truck load already and that's good. Now for more questions! :icon_mrgreen:
BB has the cam Chain Rubbing Blade for $30- this is what I can see is broken. Question is though- do I replace anything else whilst I'm in there? If all the other parts are ok should I only replace the CC rubbing blade?
The carbs are taking a back seat atm..... :icon_wink:
new chain needed also and new spring for the tensioner assembly
Overstating the obvious but the cam timing needs to be reset while you're on
You bet! I've ordered all the necessary bits to get her back running. I'll double check my floats whilst I wait for them to arrive.
Thanks again gents!
QuoteOK! All is not lost. LOL! I am learning a truck load already and that's good. Now for more questions!
Experience is the thing you get just after you really needed it :thumbsup
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on October 18, 2013, 08:46:43 PM
QuoteOK! All is not lost. LOL! I am learning a truck load already and that's good. Now for more questions!
Experience is the thing you get just after you really needed it :thumbsup
So true! :icon_mrgreen:
Well I'm back in the game! Got the ol bitch running again and just need to get all the parts back on. Yeeeehaaaaaa!! However, I will say that whomever engineered this bike needs a few good kicks in jewels. A guy could use a little more room to work and that airbox setup is just naff!
Tomorrow I will get the tank on and take it for a spin.
Thanks again for the help lads!
Cheers,
Mark
If you think that setup it difficult you need to look at how much they squeeze into how small a place on a modern sports bike. It gives rise to the question, "I don't want to / don't have the test kit to work on it myself, but I don't trust the dealer...."
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on November 25, 2013, 11:29:39 AM
If you think that setup it difficult you need to look at how much they squeeze into how small a place on a modern sports bike. It gives rise to the question, "I don't want to / don't have the test kit to work on it myself, but I don't trust the dealer...."
So true. However working on my S3 hasn't been too bad, albeit it is FI.
Test ride started out ok but went downhill. I was getting some surging at the start then when I would let the clutch out and give it some gas it would die. It wants to go but dies......ugh. :icon_study:
Did you clean the carbs while you had it in bits?
If its been sat a while, the gas might have gummed up the carbs?
Yeah I cleaned them up. Another symptom is when I rev the the bike and let the throttle go it takes time for the revs to drop. A few mates say it's prolly a vacuum leak..... :icon_study:
Where is the engine number located? I looked above the clutch cover where I thought it was but I cant make out any numbers? Am I looking in the wrong place?
Cheers,
Mark
Quotewhen I rev the the bike and let the throttle go it takes time for the revs to drop
depends on what your definition of "time" is, but mine lags too, runs great.
Quote from: HeavyHustler on November 27, 2013, 06:07:20 AM
Where is the engine number located? I looked above the clutch cover where I thought it was but I cant make out any numbers? Am I looking in the wrong place?
Cheers,
Mark
The engine number is where you were looking:
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/97tiger885/Tiger/IMG_20131127_151853.jpg)
The number is stamped on the rectangle space at the end of the screwdriver.
(http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/97tiger885/Tiger/IMG_20131127_152259.jpg)
The good news is it is easy to access. The bad news is it is very, very, very, very,...,very hard to read. The characters are composed of small dotlike indentations. I did it by first cleaning the area. Then I shone a very bright light at an angle until the dots showed up. I had to move the light for each character. It was a long frustrating process. I tried using a pencil and piece of paper with no luck. YMMV.
ONCE YOU GET THE NUMBER STORE A COPY IN A SAFE PLACE. YOU DO NOT WANT TO GO THRU THIS AGAIN.
LOL! Thanks for that! :icon_mrgreen:
Holy crap that was hard. Had to rub some WD-40 on it and hold the light just right! :sign13
I am thinking that solving a rubics cube might be easier........ugh. So I got the cam chain sorted and aligned perfectly. However, now I am having two other issues. 1- I'm sure I have a small vacuum leak, sprayed some starter fluid on the boots and teh revs increased. So I ordered some new ones. 2- When I rev the bike to 5k rpm's and hold it there, eventually the rpm's start to slowly drop back down to 3k rpm's. Bike will idle just fine, I just cleaned the carbs and checked them again afterwards for any gunk, none found.
Thoughts?
Cheers,
Mark
When you cleaned the carbs, did you take the pilot jets out?
These usually block up and need a strand of wire poking through them to clear them out.
Have you had the petcock and attached filter out of the tank, filter could be on its last legs.
I didn't run a wire through them but they are soaking in seafoam overnight. I will wire them. I also just ordered new parts anyways.
ATM I am using an auxilary fuel tank so the fuel is flowing freely...... :icon_study:
While the tank is off, I would pull the petcock out and remove the two sock filters from the feed pipes. At a certain age, they often collapse under vacuum causing fuel starvation and stalling.
And do not replace the inline filter between the carbs. If that filter clogs, it is a lot of work to pull the carbs and replace it. Many have gone to an inline filter close to the petcock.
I noticed mine does not have this filter sock at the carbs. I cleaned the petcock socks though, even though it is not the problem here since i have the auxilary fuel tank.
I did buy an external fuel filter but haven't installed it... maybe after i get the whole thing running again...... :icon_scratch:
Well after many moons I have finally got the ol girl sorted! :wheel
BUT.......whilst trying to repair a spinning nut I broke through the tank. It cracked at the very back of the insert area. So I am now going to repair the whole plug, as per the spinning nut thread, are there any specific repair epoxy/polymers I should get or stay away from?
Also Since I had the tank off for a period of time it has expanded.....now I can't fit the fairings on....... :icon_rolleyes:
A friend mentioned leaving the tank empty and open for several days in the sun and the tank will return to it's regular shape. Anyone have some experience with this?
Cheers and happy New Years!
Mark
I`ve used JB Weld to help a leaky tap, so far so good.
I believe the higher levels of Ethanol in US are causing Tanks to soften, allowing the shape to change slightly when not mounted. I remember a thread from way back suggesting using straps to reform the tank over time. Probably best to leave attached wherever possible once back on. I bought an old tank ages ago, and cut it up, like you do!, and this is the amount of materiel you are working with around most tank inserts.
Take care.
Regards and Happy new year, Phil
Thanks Phil! I found that thread, after the fact, dammit! LOL! Well I found some cold weld tank repair goo and patched her up last night. Let it sit for +16hrs like it said and it worked a treat. Got the plastics back on with all the bolts except one on each side. I can live with that until the tank decides otherwise.....lol!
Happy New Years!
Glad its sorted. I changed all the screws in my tank for this set up, and It means never having to worry. Stainless items, and no screwing the tank, as it were..