....have been discussed both on this site and on a plethora of others. A question for those of you who have changed your own Steamer tyres. Do the Steamer rims have the extra 'lip' on the inside along the bead, like that found on tubeless-specific rims? Or, if you convert to tubeless by sealing the nipples, are you losing that extra degree of 'safety'. Enquiring minds need to know.
it's there and depending on what tire you are dismounting the rear can be a BITCH
Thanks for that, Mustang. I am hoping to hear from others on this.
You have expressed a preference for Shinko 705s in posts past. Do you still feel the same way? In trawling the web I have read horror stories about them 'de-blocking' or generally breaking down. Any comment?
My assumption is that if I go the 'tubeless' route and it does not work then I can always stick a tube in a tyre built to be tubeless.
It will depend on which rims you have fitted. Many of the original DID rims have succumbed to the dreaded mouldy cheese syndrome if they haven't been cared for. The DID's should be fine as Mustang says and most modern rims are OK.
If you have later rims, pop the tyre to one side and take a look. You can stick a tube in any tyre but just watch the heat. Most likely you won't have to as a tubeless repair is a lot easier.
Quote from: nickjtc on December 12, 2013, 05:32:30 AM
You have expressed a preference for Shinko 705s in posts past. Do you still feel the same way? In trawling the web I have read horror stories about them 'de-blocking' or generally breaking down. Any comment?
currently mounted :
tigger 1 = 705's
tigger2 = 17 inch shinko raven on front 185 /60 dunlop on rear
tigger 3 = car tires (hack duty)
tigger 4 = 705's
the 705s treadblocks work just as fine as a metzler or similar .
I think you will find most of the web horror stories come from bmw snobs who run a heavy pig on under inflated tires blasting down the freeway pretending to be on the epic ride of a lifetime , only to be actually going to starbucks for a mocha latte :nod
Some people told me how dangerous it would be to do away with the tubes as there was no ridge on my Girly. A moment's (or even a lot of) thought tells you that if the tyre is going to come off the rim, a tube will do nothing at all to stop it. So from that point of view, tubeless or tubed have the same likelihood of coming off.
My view was that a catastrophic deflation was far more likely with a tube (and those of us who've suffered one know how scary it can be) as in general the object penetrating the tyre will stay put. On a tubeless this generally just results in a relatively slow loss of air; a tube tends to rip (and then let the air out through the nipples / valve hole).
Quote from: Mustang on December 12, 2013, 02:52:29 PMI think you will find most of the web horror stories come from bmw snobs who run a heavy pig on under inflated tires blasting down the freeway pretending to be on the epic ride of a lifetime , only to be actually going to starbucks for a mocha latte :nod
Love it! But ain't it the truth. Some riders just take it all far too seriously. Used to be just some of the cruiser crowd but I too am seeing it more with the Ewan McCharlie's who think that $20k+ of bike + aluminium panniers makes them hardened world tourers. I once asked a fellow on a 1000 V-Strom kitted with all the 'stuff' where he'd been and what he carried in his luggage. The answer was that he commuted 10k to and from work every day and carried his lunch in the top-box. :icon_wink: :icon_wink:
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on December 12, 2013, 02:19:50 PM
It will depend on which rims you have fitted. Many of the original DID rims have succumbed to the dreaded mouldy cheese syndrome if they haven't been cared for. The DID's should be fine as Mustang says and most modern rims are OK.
Stanley has been well cared for over the years so I am not expecting to see anything horrific about the rims when I get rid of the existing tyres. We cannot ride in the winter here so, generally, bikes are not exposed to the muck, mung, salt, crud et al that is deposited on the roads when the weather gets inclement.
So long as you refit "tubeless" marked tyres you should be fine. I have never met anyone who has done as many miles as Ian on a spoked conversion so make of that what you will and I strongly recommend "Dynabeads" when you're happy with your handiwork :thumbsup
I just posted a question to Woody's regarding upgrading my wheels to the strongest tubeless design for long distance touring that included both street and dirt. Here's the response:
We would recommend lacing a 19 x 2.5 front and 17 x 3.5 or 4.25 Excel rim, with our superlace using heavy duty stainless steel spokes/nipples and seal for tubeless with your hub's. This would be the strongest setup you can get using your stock hub's and still being tubeless. Excel rim's are the strongest rim's we can use and with our superlace are a very bulletproof wheel.
If you sent your hub's it would be from $1,186- 1,226 + shipping for the two rim's, spoke kit's, superlace/true and sealing for tubeless.
If you would like to get these wheel's in order it's best to email us at woodyswheelworks@gmail.com
Quote from: ssevy on December 13, 2013, 04:39:28 AM
If you sent your hub's it would be from $1,186- 1,226 + shipping for the two rim's, spoke kit's, superlace/true and sealing for tubeless.
:bug_eye 'kin 'ell..... It'd be cheaper to buy a spare Steamer......
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on December 13, 2013, 09:16:02 AM
:bug_eye 'kin 'ell..... It'd be cheaper to buy a spare Steamer......
+1 :thumbsup
Hard to substantiate the cost if a $20 conversion (plus a bit of sweat equity) will do an adequate and safe job too.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on December 13, 2013, 09:16:02 AM
:bug_eye 'kin 'ell..... It'd be cheaper to buy a spare Steamer......
Hmmmmm now where have I heard that before :bad
Quote from: ssevy on December 13, 2013, 04:39:28 AMWe would recommend lacing a 19 x 2.5 front and 17 x 3.5 or 4.25 Excel rim, with our superlace using heavy duty stainless steel spokes/nipples and seal for tubeless with your hub's. This would be the strongest setup you can get using your stock hub's and still being tubeless. Excel rim's are the strongest rim's we can use and with our superlace are a very bulletproof wheel.
If you sent your hub's it would be from $1,186- 1,226 + shipping for the two rim's, spoke kit's, superlace/true and sealing for tubeless.
If you would like to get these wheel's in order it's best to email us at woodyswheelworks@gmail.com
Sorry, just had to comment..... never trust someone who does not know the correct use of apostrophes! :augie
Anyhoo, I am just about to embark on the tube to tubeless adventure.
DIY or pay to play?
Quote from: ssevy on February 07, 2014, 09:34:21 PMDIY or pay to play?
DIY. Still got a few weeks of long cold winter nights to kill at home, so might as well get my butt in gear and get cracking.
I've got a set of the new Tourance NEXT tyres ready to go,
http://www.canadasmotorcycle.ca/metzeler-tourance-next-rear-tire.html
plus the sealer stuff. Got myself a bead breaker off eBay, and snagged the tyre balancing stand a group of us bought as a co-op. All that is left is the centre stand I've got on order from Twisted Throttle which has been on back order since before Christmas. I probably will not wait for that to arrive if I can figure out a way to prop up the bike in the mean time.
Pics will follow.
Quote from: nickjtc on February 07, 2014, 10:59:11 PM
I probably will not wait for that to arrive if I can figure out a way to prop up the bike in the mean time.
Pics will follow.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/101_1653-1.jpg)
I said prop it up, not build a freakin' railway trestle!! :augie :icon_lol:
I like bricks :icon_mrgreen: if you have a garage that has rafters or roof trusses, jack it up and hang it.
Before I went with the tape kits I was going to use the self applied sealant method that I assume you are going with. One of my concerns was how to smooth out the sealant making sure the thickness was as consistent and even all the way around, two reasons:-
- I wanted to be sure I didn't go too thin anywhere, it's a bit hard to tell with opaque sealer if you get close to the wood.
- I also wanted as consistent a weight distribution to reduce any balance effect required, even if I was using Dynabeads, no point in adding more weight than is really necessary.
The solution I came up with, it's only a theory at this point as I never went all the way with it, was to trim a piece of plastic card, old credit / membership card is perfect, in the section profile shape of the rim, with a bit more removed in the gully enough so that if you hold the card reasonably perpendicular in the rim profile and turn the rim you will have a consistent bead all the way around. Just a suggestion :augie
The other point that was rattling around my brain was ensuring that the sealant did not sag as it cured, I was not prepared to sit rotating the rim for a couple of hours while it cured, even then I've seen supposedly cured sealant sag, I'd rather be sitting with my feet up and a malt in hand. I did a proof of concept with an old electric drill (lockable switch) with a small pulley in the chuck, a couple of plastic tubs that I used as a rough pulley for the hub and an old bit of shock cord that the casing braid had worn through with the ends knotted together, yes really. It worked well enough that I would have come up with something a bit more robust if I had gone that way.
Ful of bright ideas me :blah just need someone else to do the hard bit :wave
Orl righty then. Time to get derriere in gear and start doing the thing. Step 1 is to get all the bits and pieces together to be able to keep the momentum going.
Here is my workshop, cunningly disguised as a small bedroom in a house.
Next, all the bits and pieces to do the tube to tubeless thing. Descriptive to follow.
1. The goop that will be used to seal the nipples.
2. The replacement valve stems. Could not get angled ones so will use these.
3. Tyre removal stuff, part 1.
4. Tyre removal stuff, part deux. A bead breaker sourced from eBay. Inexpensive.
I'm starting with the front. The existing tyres on Stanley are old style Tourances. They still have a bit of tread, but because the front was made in the seventh week of 2004 it is well past its expiry date. You DO know how to date your tyres, of course....?? :icon_scratch:
Using the new bead breaker and the tyre irons, with liberal use of Ruglyde, the tyre is off. Inspection of the rims is promising. For an old geezer 18 years old, with 76,000+kms under his wheels, the front rim is in good shape. The inside of the rim has been cleaned and de-greased and the bead surface examined for significant dings. Pic 1.
Pic 2 isn't too clear, but it shows that the rims have the little ridge just inboard like tubeless ones do. The serrations end in the region where the rim was welded; hopefully that will not be an issue.
Next was to make sure that the spokes all gave a satisfying ring-ting-kling-bing sound; any that were not adjusted would have had to be torqued up. The next picture (again, not too clear, sorry) was a check that the rim is true. I used the corner of the bead breaker up close to the rim and spun the rim on the balancer. All ok.
I have inserted the new valve stem (no modification needed to the hole) and put a smidge of sealant on the inside of the gasket to ensure a tight seal.
Just an observation. With the rim on the balancer I was curious to see where the heaviest place would be. Even without the valve stem in place the heaviest part is around the location of the hole for the valve stem, which is diametrically opposite where the 'join' in the rim is.
Continuing later.
Back at it. I've mounted the new front tyre. Just for s's and g's I'm doing an experiment. I've seated the bead with my trusty compressor and measured the pressure. I'll go back after an hour to see how much air is actually lost in an 'unsealed' rim. Watch this space.
Looks good.
I don't think you need the gorilla tape. I didn't use anything like that (although I did use aircraft quality sealant :icon_mrgreen: ).
I did think of putting tape or similar but thought it would probably tear during tyre fitting and had no problems without it.
Quote from: iansoady on February 09, 2014, 01:09:26 PMI don't think you need the gorilla tape.
Good point. My only reasoning for using it will be to 'protect' the globs of goop on the nipples since my tyre mounting skills are marginal and I do not want the risk of disturbing anything once it has all set up.
FWIW I did a bit of research on this whole process and came up with these as most interesting:
http://www.triumphrat.net/tiger-workshop-archive/46888-what-i-did-on-my-holidays-spoke-sealing.html Thanks to Ian.
http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php/50643-How-to-seal-a-Spoke-Rim
http://cyb.smugmug.com/gallery/7250813_ZxQA5#!i=465979306&k=6pKDBnG
I decided on the last one mainly because it did not involve filling the whole drop down and I like the idea that Seal All is a bit runnier so 'should' fill the holes efficiently. We'll see.
EDIT: Turns out that the Seal All is definitely not runnier and also has an unanticipated side effect as noted later.
Back at it this am. My un-scientific test to see how much pressure is lost in an un-sealed rim showed that, yes, there will be total loss of pressure eventually, but interestingly, after an hour the drop was only about 8psi.
So using my (perhaps flawed) logic... in the event of a catastrophic loss of pressure due to the process of sealing the rims you would still have time to deal with it. How many people have ridden with their tyres acutely under inflated, after all.
Tyre un-mounted again. That Ruglyde makes life very much easier! The process of putting the first 'layer' of sealant is time consuming because I do not want it running. I figure it will be about a four beverage du jour job.
A quick aside, re: tyre mounting. If I had not seen this I would not have believed it.
http://www.clarity.net/adam/images/bike/tirechange/install-tire.mov
Beyond my capability, I fear. :bowdown
Front wheel done, and holding air. A few observations about the process. The Seal All which I used as the first 'coat' cures by giving off gas which forms lots of minute bubbles in the gel. I was a bit concerned about this initially. The Goop for the final 'coat' cures without the bubbles forming. I'm thinking that when I do the rear I'll just use the Goop and see how it goes. It is, also, a lot nicer to use.
I put one strip of Gorilla tape over the sealed nipples, primarily to protect them from the ravages of tyre mounting as performed by me. Yes, I know that duct tape is a big no-no inside rims, but since there is no chance of moisture getting in I foresee no issues.
Ain't that just a purty sight? Nothing nicer than looking at a freshly mounted tyre. Balancing only took 1/2oz.
Note my secondary workshop, disguised as the living room of a house.
Next question... what pressure to run it at? Any suggestions? I'm thinking 36psi as a start.
it likes closer to 40-42 psi mo' better :nod
it will reward you with the most even tire wear
get below 40psi prepare for cupping at about 4k miles :bad
Quote from: Mustang on February 10, 2014, 10:54:24 PMit likes closer to 40-42 psi mo' better :nod
Thanks for that. Better over than under inflated.
I have this afternoon started the performance with the rear tyre. Fun and games taking the wheel off when I realised that I did not have a 12mmm allen wrench. I have never seen a rear wheel attachment set up like that on Stanley, ever. So I bit the bullet and went to Lordco and bought two half inch drive 12mm sockets. Isn't it wonderful having the right tools for a job. :love10
The tyre came off with a bit of a struggle. The spokes are tight and the rim is running true. Some of the nipples inside the rim are showing a little corrosion so I will deal with that before moving on the Goop stage
Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 08:28:10 AM
I have this afternoon started the performance with the rear tyre. Fun and games taking the wheel off when I realised that I did not have a 12mmm allen wrench. I have never seen a rear wheel attachment set up like that on Stanley, ever.
If you're talking about the eccentric chain adjusters you don't need to move them when removing the wheel (if it's the same as the Girlies). By the same token you don't need to (read mustn't) slacken the spindle off when adjusting the chain.
Quote from: iansoady on February 11, 2014, 11:27:55 AMIf you're talking about the eccentric chain adjusters you don't need to move them when removing the wheel (if it's the same as the Girlies).
The Triumph manual for Steamers says that the chain has to be loosened (by slackening off the adjusters) to enable the wheel to be moved forward to give enough slack for the wheel to come off...?
So, for all of you who still have the original tool kit that came with the bike, did it include two 12mm allen wrenches?
Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 05:36:04 PM
Quote from: iansoady on February 11, 2014, 11:27:55 AMIf you're talking about the eccentric chain adjusters you don't need to move them when removing the wheel (if it's the same as the Girlies).
The Triumph manual for Steamers says that the chain has to be loosened (by slackening off the adjusters) to enable the wheel to be moved forward to give enough slack for the wheel to come off...?
So, for all of you who still have the original tool kit that came with the bike, did it include two 12mm allen wrenches?
Yes!
John :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 05:36:04 PM
So, for all of you who still have the original tool kit that came with the bike, did it include two 12mm allen wrenches?[/font]
:nod
Bit OT - anyone care to post a photo of the original toolkit so I can see what it and the contents look like, or that a bit too anorak :icon_confused:
Quote from: nickjtc on February 11, 2014, 05:36:04 PM
The Triumph manual for Steamers says that ..............................................
that book says a lot of things that just are not req'd to do :ImaPoser
if you have your chain set like it likes , you don't need any more slack , you have plenty .
ps the chain loves at least 40mm free play (when setting on the sidestand )
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 11, 2014, 07:43:19 PM
Bit OT - anyone care to post a photo of the original toolkit so I can see what it and the contents look like, or that a bit too anorak :icon_confused:
what year ? they were different.........................
the top pick is the early kits the bottom was what the 98's came with
(http://d136nqpz68vrmx.cloudfront.net/schematics/schematics/triumph/tri001/TR-0606-2100.gif)
Quote from: nickjtc on February 10, 2014, 09:09:59 PM
I put one strip of Gorilla tape over the sealed nipples, primarily to protect them from the ravages of tyre mounting as performed by me. Yes, I know that duct tape is a big no-no inside rims, but since there is no chance of moisture getting in I foresee no issues.
Actually, unless you always use an air compressor set up for painting which has the filter to remove moisture, you will be putting moisture into the tire every time you add air. If you have ever drained the tank on an air compressor, you quickly realize that condensation is part of the process. Gorilla tape is good stuff, but if your goal is just to protect your sealing job, silicone self sealing tape might be a better option, as it stretches and only sticks to itself, and is impervious to hot and cold and moisture.
Quote from: ssevy on February 11, 2014, 09:21:14 PM
Actually, unless you always use an air compressor set up for painting which has the filter to remove moisture, you will be putting moisture into the tire every time you add air. If you have ever drained the tank on an air compressor, you quickly realize that condensation is part of the process.
Good point. I drain the tank after every use, but as you say there is always the possibility of moisture condensing out.... except in the summer here when the relative humidity is usually around 0%. :icon_wink: :icon_wink:
The tyre is done, installed and (I hope) good to go. I'll check the pressure again today when I get home from work. So I'll hold off on a different type of 'protector' tape until the next tyre change.
I agree, self amalgamating rubber electrical tape is probably a better option but it normally only comes in 12mm width, so you would have to go around a few times.
Thanks Mustang, I'll keep my eyes peeled for rocking horses shitting to get a set or even just the spark plug socket :icon_wink:
Just finished the lengthy job of sealing the nipples in the rear wheel. Because of the angle of some of the spokes there is quite a pronounced lip or ridge on one side of the nipple as it sits inside the rim. So it takes a bit more of the sealant to build it up. No problem, just time consuming.
I decided to only use the Goop for the rear since it is much nicer to work with than the Seal All. The final application is curing as we speak so I'll wrap it up and mount the tyre this evening. I'm optimistic that the process will work aok, since the front is still holding air quite nicely.
All back together and holding air. Time to do a little electrical stuff (wiring for heated grips and replacing the front signals) and installing a Scottoiler. Roll on Spring!! :thumbsup
Ref the Scottoiler, I had the plastic two nib version which my Blackbird ate the first time out, so I fabricated one out of small gauge brass tube from a model aircraft shop. I had one piece about 6mm dia that would fit the Scottoiler plastic tube soldered onto a mounting bracket shaped to the swinging arm and soldered two 2mm brass tubes inside it and then shaped them accordingly. The plastic end nibs fit on the brass tubes and the whole thing stays put far better than the original. I think there's a post on here somewhere...
Found it: http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,10778.msg79892.html#msg79892
That's a nifty set up. Must admit that on the 6 or 7 bikes on which I have installed a Scottoiler I have never used a two spout delivery end. The single end on the outside of the sprocket always seems to do the job because the Scottoil (or whatever else I am using) migrates along the rollers to the inside of the chain.
Except, however, in the case of the XR650 where if the chain gets too dusty/dirty before there is a good coverage it will impede the progress of the oil. I contacted Mark at Scottoiler about that (and what a helpful chap he is :thumbsup) and he said that they had heard of the issue with bikes being ridden in dusty conditions. The solution was either to do the double ended delivery spout or to give the chain a wipe before riding so that it starts in a moderately dust-free condition.
For the installation on Stanley I am mounting the RMV on the inside of the left hand engine protectors the PO has fitted. That provides a convenient location for the vacuum line from the Number 1 carb and a direct run back to the sprocket.
Pictures will follow.
Has anyone used this? I'm debating whether or not to order. It looks like it might be a good, simple (albeit a little pricey) option.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tubeless-kit-for-TIGER-955i-Front-19-2-5-Rear-17-4-25-MT-No-FR354-OUTEX-/301090611393?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461a6620c1
Quote from: cba191 on February 19, 2014, 09:27:34 AM
Has anyone used this? I'm debating whether or not to order. It looks like it might be a good, simple (albeit a little pricey) option.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tubeless-kit-for-TIGER-955i-Front-19-2-5-Rear-17-4-25-MT-No-FR354-OUTEX-/301090611393?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461a6620c1
see that word in the menu above that says "SEARCH"....................
well using
1word it pulls up exactly what you wanted ................
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13178.0/topicseen.html#msg96765
use the search function , although it may be "new" to you new guys , it's probably been done or discussed a long time ago . We are cutting edge like that :ImaPoser
:ImaPoser beat me to it. You're up late, or very early :sleepy1
Quote from: cba191 on February 19, 2014, 09:27:34 AM
Has anyone used this?
I had thought about that, and it seems to be a well received procedure.
Quote from: Mustang on February 19, 2014, 01:47:42 PM
Quote from: cba191 on February 19, 2014, 09:27:34 AM
Has anyone used this? I'm debating whether or not to order. It looks like it might be a good, simple (albeit a little pricey) option.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tubeless-kit-for-TIGER-955i-Front-19-2-5-Rear-17-4-25-MT-No-FR354-OUTEX-/301090611393?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461a6620c1
see that word in the menu above that says "SEARCH"....................
well using 1word it pulls up exactly what you wanted ................
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,13178.0/topicseen.html#msg96765
use the search function , although it may be "new" to you new guys , it's probably been done or discussed a long time ago . We are cutting edge like that :ImaPoser
I've read that about a dozen times. I posted because I was wondering if anyone else had used it. Thanks though. That thread was what got me thinking about it. My problem is I either over think things or jump the gun. I think it's my add.
So, since riding time is fast approaching, I have decided to investigate the 2-3psi per week leak from the front tyre since I did the tubed-to-tubeless conversion last year. The most obvious place for a leak is either around the valve stem and where it pokes through the rim, or where the spokes/nipples do ditto.
Turns out that there are several minute leaks around the bead of the tyre. When I prepped the rim for mounting the tyres I gave the bead area a good scrub, but obviously not enough! I will probably need new tyres this year so will address the issue then. I did 10,300km last year on the conversion and apart from checking the pressures on a regular basis and topping up when necessary (I carry a portable compressor with me at all times) there have been no other issues.............. except a rear Tourance NEXT which is so square that the wheel stands up by itself when it is off the bike!
Some tyre beads are not very compliant, use some rubberised bead sealer rather than the more common "mounting paste".
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 08, 2015, 10:03:45 PM
Some tyre beads are not very compliant, use some rubberised bad sealer rather than the more common "mounting paste".
I must confess that I have never had a situation where a mounted tubeless tyre lost air from the bead. Having discovered that the Tiger rims will take tubeless tyre I have to admit being a bit sceptical..... but then again if the tyre seats itself with a satisfying 'pop' why should there be an issue? I've never heard of 'mounting paste' or 'bead sealer' so will look into it.
Quote from: nickjtc on March 09, 2015, 12:27:05 AM
I must confess that I have never had a situation where a mounted tubeless tyre lost air from the bead.
I have, more than once. Pop, doesn't mean a seal, just the noise rubber hitting ally makes :icon_wink:
Mine would lose air off the bead as well. I took the core out, broke the bead and refilled. I would also bounce the tyre all the way around as well, then checked for leaks again. Worked. Then I checked again a week later.......still lost a couple psi. Oh well.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 09, 2015, 01:00:38 AM
I have, more than once. Pop, doesn't mean a seal, just the noise rubber hitting ally makes :icon_wink:
All interesting stuff; I guess there is always the opportunity for a 'first time' when it comes to mounting tyres.
I've just come across it of rthe first time. My CX500 rear tyre wouldn't seal on the bead so had to replace it in the end.
Pang (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PANG-TYRE-BEAD-SEALER-/161311279381?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item258ee6c915) will do the job, don't leave the tin open or it will go "off" within 30 mins. Don't rely on a "Pop" to tell you it's seated, I had one that even the guy in the local bike workshop said "That's done it" (he does them day in day out) but it went down over an hour, when I checked all the way around, it was part twisted at one section over 90 deg. We had to remove it, clean it all up again and blow it on with a 100 litre booster reservoir at 10bar :icon_eek:
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 09, 2015, 10:26:23 PM
Pang (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PANG-TYRE-BEAD-SEALER-/161311279381?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item258ee6c915) will do the job
We had to remove it, clean it all up again and blow it on with a 100 litre booster reservoir at 10bar :icon_eek:
Pang; ok, good to know. 140psi seems a trifle excessive!!! :bug_eye
That might have been a little misleading. We used a large volume reservoir to ensure a sudden increase in casing pressure but at no time was pressure in the tyre in excess of 3 bar (45 psi). It's quite common practice, especially with truck tyres. Hope that clarifies.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 10, 2015, 06:37:27 AM
We used a large volume reservoir to ensure a sudden increase in casing pressure but at no time was pressure in the tyre in excess of 3 bar (45 psi).
Ah. You could always do it this way, of course..... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCaC7n3NWlU
:icon_wink:
Me and :kboom mixtures have a chequered history, so I'll skip the redneck method thanks.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 11, 2015, 05:00:33 PM
Me and :kboom mixtures have a chequered history, so I'll skip the redneck method thanks.
Agreed. I wonder who would have thought up that way of doing it in the first place???
First place i saw that done was on Icelandic trucks they use on the glaciers, 24inch diameter, running a few psi of air to get traction on the ice, when they come off the rim that's the technique they use to get going again quickly.
Quote from: nickjtc on March 11, 2015, 05:54:46 PM
Agreed. I wonder who would have thought up that way of doing it in the first place???
Tubeless ag and construction equipment. Literally can't do it any other way.
I've learned what brands of either to buy to get the "pop" needed versus some just go "whoof" and catch the tire on fire.
I put a rim from a 96 Trophy on my 96 Tiger, works pretty good, i also kept the original so i have 2 tires and rims for the rear.
the Trophy rim is a mag, so its not so good for rough off road stuff, but fine for gravel roads, even with a street tire.