Rims suitable for going tubeless...

[nickjtc]

....have been discussed both on this site and on a plethora of others. A question for those of you who have changed your own Steamer tyres. Do the Steamer rims have the extra 'lip' on the inside along the bead, like that found on tubeless-specific rims? Or, if you convert to tubeless by sealing the nipples, are you losing that extra degree of 'safety'. Enquiring minds need to know.

[Mustang]

it's there and depending on what tire you are dismounting the rear can be a BITCH

[nickjtc]

Thanks for that, Mustang. I am hoping to hear from others on this.

You have expressed a preference for Shinko 705s in posts past. Do you still feel the same way? In trawling the web I have read horror stories about them 'de-blocking' or generally breaking down. Any comment?

My assumption is that if I go the 'tubeless' route and it does not work then I can always stick a tube in a tyre built to be tubeless.

[Sin_Tiger]

It will depend on which rims you have fitted. Many of the original DID rims have succumbed to the dreaded mouldy cheese syndrome if they haven't been cared for. The DID's should be fine as Mustang says and most modern rims are OK.

If you have later rims, pop the tyre to one side and take a look. You can stick a tube in any tyre but just watch the heat. Most likely you won't have to as a tubeless repair is a lot easier.

[Mustang]

You have expressed a preference for Shinko 705s in posts past. Do you still feel the same way? In trawling the web I have read horror stories about them 'de-blocking' or generally breaking down. Any comment?

currently mounted :
tigger 1 = 705's
tigger2 = 17 inch shinko raven on front 185 /60 dunlop on rear
tigger 3 = car tires (hack duty)
tigger 4 = 705's

the 705s treadblocks work just as fine as a metzler or similar .
I think you will find most of the web horror stories come from bmw snobs who run a heavy pig on under inflated tires blasting down the freeway pretending to be on the epic ride of a lifetime , only to be actually going to starbucks for a mocha latte 

[iansoady]

Some people told me how dangerous it would be to do away with the tubes as there was no ridge on my Girly. A moment's (or even a lot of) thought tells you that if the tyre is going to come off the rim, a tube will do nothing at all to stop it. So from that point of view, tubeless or tubed have the same likelihood of coming off.

My view was that a catastrophic deflation was far more likely with a tube (and those of us who've suffered one know how scary it can be) as in general the object penetrating the tyre will stay put. On a tubeless this generally just results in a relatively slow loss of air; a tube tends to rip (and then let the air out through the nipples / valve hole).

[nickjtc]

I think you will find most of the web horror stories come from bmw snobs who run a heavy pig on under inflated tires blasting down the freeway pretending to be on the epic ride of a lifetime , only to be actually going to starbucks for a mocha latte 

Love it! But ain't it the truth. Some riders just take it all far too seriously. Used to be just some of the cruiser crowd but I too am seeing it more with the Ewan McCharlie's who think that $20k+ of bike + aluminium panniers makes them hardened world tourers. I once asked a fellow on a 1000 V-Strom kitted with all the 'stuff' where he'd been and what he carried in his luggage. The answer was that he commuted 10k to and from work every day and carried his lunch in the top-box.  :icon_wink: :icon_wink:

[nickjtc]

It will depend on which rims you have fitted. Many of the original DID rims have succumbed to the dreaded mouldy cheese syndrome if they haven't been cared for. The DID's should be fine as Mustang says and most modern rims are OK.

Stanley has been well cared for over the years so I am not expecting to see anything horrific about the rims when I get rid of the existing tyres. We cannot ride in the winter here so, generally, bikes are not exposed to the muck, mung, salt, crud et al that is deposited on the roads when the weather gets inclement.

[Sin_Tiger]

So long as you refit "tubeless" marked tyres you should be fine. I have never met anyone who has done as many miles as Ian on a spoked conversion so make of that what you will and I strongly recommend "Dynabeads" when you're happy with your handiwork 

[ssevy]

I just posted a question to Woody's regarding upgrading my wheels to the strongest tubeless design for long distance touring that included both street and dirt. Here's the response:

We would recommend lacing a 19 x 2.5 front and 17 x 3.5 or 4.25 Excel rim, with our superlace using heavy duty stainless steel spokes/nipples and seal for tubeless with your hub's. This would be the strongest setup you can get using your stock hub's and still being tubeless. Excel rim's are the strongest rim's we can use and with our superlace are a very bulletproof wheel.

If you sent your hub's it would be from $1,186- 1,226 + shipping for the two rim's, spoke kit's, superlace/true and sealing for tubeless.

If you would like to get these wheel's in order it's best to email us at woodyswheelworks@gmail.com

[Bixxer Bob]

If you sent your hub's it would be from $1,186- 1,226 + shipping for the two rim's, spoke kit's, superlace/true and sealing for tubeless.

'kin 'ell..... It'd be cheaper to buy a spare Steamer......

[nickjtc]

'kin 'ell..... It'd be cheaper to buy a spare Steamer......

+1 

Hard to substantiate the cost if a $20 conversion (plus a bit of sweat equity) will do an adequate and safe job too.

[Sin_Tiger]

'kin 'ell..... It'd be cheaper to buy a spare Steamer......

Hmmmmm now where have I heard that before 

[nickjtc]

We would recommend lacing a 19 x 2.5 front and 17 x 3.5 or 4.25 Excel rim, with our superlace using heavy duty stainless steel spokes/nipples and seal for tubeless with your hub's. This would be the strongest setup you can get using your stock hub's and still being tubeless. Excel rim's are the strongest rim's we can use and with our superlace are a very bulletproof wheel.

If you sent your hub's it would be from $1,186- 1,226 + shipping for the two rim's, spoke kit's, superlace/true and sealing for tubeless.

If you would like to get these wheel's in order it's best to email us at woodyswheelworks@gmail.com

Sorry, just had to comment..... never trust someone who does not know the correct use of apostrophes! 

Anyhoo, I am just about to embark on the tube to tubeless adventure.

[ssevy]

DIY or pay to play?