Did a few km ride to the shop, and when restarting... battery almost completely discharged. Was able to do a few revs, but not enough to start the bike. Called my wive who came with the Bonnie :XXsunsmile and was able to start with the aid of her battery. On the way home rev counter died followed by the ODO and at last the speedo, but riding was ok.
Put the battery on the recovery Optimate, and after one day all seems ok. But why did the battery suddenly discharged so quick?? (battery is from dec.2011)
Note: I'm riding regulary, and did the Voltage-fix last year.
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h452/iridek1/P1010395_zpsee32d7f9.jpg) (http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/iridek1/media/P1010395_zpsee32d7f9.jpg.html)
According to BB's earlier quote, I did the following leak test:
QuoteMight be teaching you to suck eggs, but:
Turn everything off.
Disconnect the battery +ve lead
Put your multimeter on "Amps" in a range that covers 30A to start with.
Connect the red multimeter lead to the battery and the black to the bike red lead.
You should have a zero reading.
Turn the multimeter onto increasingly sensitive ranges until you are at the most sensitive (this approach stops you overloading the meter)
If it still reads zero you have no leak.
If it reads anything else, remove and replace the fuses one at a time until you get a zero. That identifies the circuit that is leaking.
Now you just have to find out where.
Multimeter on 200mA connected between battery+ and bike red lead: reads 1,7
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h452/iridek1/P1010396_zps92532e86.jpg) (http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/iridek1/media/P1010396_zps92532e86.jpg.html)
Idem, but third fuse removed: reding zero (I presume this is du to the clock??)
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h452/iridek1/P1010397_zps523eed47.jpg) (http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/iridek1/media/P1010397_zps523eed47.jpg.html)
Multimeter connected between battery+ and the lead coming from the R/R: reads 1,9
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h452/iridek1/P1010398_zps8c1a9b15.jpg) (http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/iridek1/media/P1010398_zps8c1a9b15.jpg.html)
Multimeter connected between battery+ and the 2 leads together: reads 3,6
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h452/iridek1/P1010399_zps50f2fc57.jpg) (http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/iridek1/media/P1010399_zps50f2fc57.jpg.html)
Are this figures normal?
When riding regularly it should not be evident to hang the bike on the Optimate every week, should it? :icon_scratch:
By the look of the readings they are milliamps and should not flatten your battery.
Have a look at the main fuse holder as these tend to melt.
The fuse holder from the voltage fix is quite small for the amperage going through it. Examine this for carbonising on the contacts and also on the fuse blades.
I modified my main fuse holder with a maxi fuse holder, there are pictures.
(http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc455/metalguru1/DSCN1494.jpg) (http://s1212.photobucket.com/user/metalguru1/media/DSCN1494.jpg.html)
As you I ride all year and I had 2x100/150 headlamps and heated grips in normal use.
The standard fuse holders for the main fuse and charging are not strong enough for prolonged use.
As a precaution when my bike and I are sleeping, I used Optimate charger all the time.
QuoteHave a look at the main fuse holder
You mean the 30A fuse at the battery box?
That's the one. :thumbsup
I would think that your bike isn't charging strongly and over the course of the ride you ran it down. Happened to me, all the gauges died, and barely made it home.
How many volts are you getting on a warmed up bike at idle and at 4-5k rpm?
While it could be absolutely anything a battery bought in 2011 is an old battery,had the same on the K forum 'My battery is new it was bought last year' guess what!!!
QuoteHave a look at the main fuse holder as these tend to melt.
The fuse holder from the voltage fix is quite small for the amperage going through it. Examine this for carbonising on the contacts and also on the fuse blades.
did a check today, and both fuses are in perfect condition.
Anyway, I'll look for bigger ones as a precaution.
QuoteHow many volts are you getting on a warmed up bike at idle and at 4-5k rpm?
I recently replaced the R/R by a Mosfed.
I have 13,8V at idle, and 13,95/14V at 4k rpm. This seems ok, does it?
I must say that, during the week, I mostly ride short distances.
Hmm.. :icon_scratch:
Quote from: Marc on April 08, 2014, 05:54:07 PM
QuoteHave a look at the main fuse holder as these tend to melt.
The fuse holder from the voltage fix is quite small for the amperage going through it. Examine this for carbonising on the contacts and also on the fuse blades.
did a check today, and both fuses are in perfect condition.
Anyway, I'll look for bigger ones as a precaution.
QuoteHow many volts are you getting on a warmed up bike at idle and at 4-5k rpm?
I recently replaced the R/R by a Mosfed.
I have 13,8V at idle, and 13,95/14V at 4k rpm. This seems ok, does it?
I must say that, during the week, I mostly ride short distances.
Hmm.. :icon_scratch:
Well the charging sounds quite good. It might be time for a new battery.
QuoteWell the charging sounds quite good. It might be time for a new battery.
2,5 years for a Yuasa, that's quick :icon_frown:
On another forum I did a group buy for Odyssey PC680's after a while I had a couple of guys tell me their batteries had gone flat,we use the bike every day they say oh really I ask how far do you ride oh only a few miles do you think it will make any difference they ask :BangHead.
As for 'is a battery old at under 3 years',this September I will change the battery on my K it's been on 2 years and I don't trust it even though it's genuine BM,that will be the 4th in 7 years!!! the previous just dropped off a cliff while on the road,some do last but not all not by a long shot they don't,particularly if their not looked after well,ie no battery tender and short trips.
If it is lead acid and the see through type then yes.
Running all the lamps and short journeys with engine stop/start will kill these batteries quickly.
I did fit a standard lamp switch from the 885 series to take the strain off starting, especially on cold days.
What must be remembered is the looms were make to a price and not a very big one, so the cables are as small as they can be to handle the current required. The 955s are getting on a bit now and the cable conductivity will lessen with age. Not saying to rewire but just give it all the help you can.
Have had good success with Motobatt batterys on my own and customers machines of all makes. They are Gel Mat type, the downfall is when they fail there is no warning but have not had one fail yet.
Most riders I know do connect Optimate or similar when not riding as I do. This is due to some of my journeys being short.
Thanks guys for the input!
In periods of short trips, the Optimate will do the job.
:icon_salut:
Marc, only scan read this so might be repeating others, but have you checked fuse 2? It's the main fuse for the charge circuit. My dashboard voltmeter dropped suddenly from 14.6v to 9.5v one night on the way home recently. On checking, fuse 2 had partially melted the fuse holder but had not completely blown. Cleaning it up and a new fuse got me back to 14.6v
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on April 11, 2014, 10:57:54 PM
have you checked fuse 2? It's the main fuse for the charge circuit.
Yes, all fuses looks ok. (main fuse, voltage fix fuse, charge fuse)
:icon_evil: AGAIN! (6 weeks later)
yes, after replacing my battery (Motobatt) good readings no problems.
Yesterday I had a good run (100km) and a break, not possible to start. A few revs and nothing. I was able to start and leave with the help of two mates puch the bike. A few miles later.... same symptoms as a few weeks ago (see first post).
QuoteOn the way home rev counter died followed by the ODO and at last the speedo
Worse... also the temp got into the red zone, and trotle response was very bad. I had to leave the bike. :icon_sad:
This morning went to pick up the bike (battery 11,65V, 13,45 at idll) but was able to start and run home, but de orange engine led stayed on.
A mate said he had a similar problem with his Trophy due to the loom squeezed under the tank/battery box. (??)
I'll check the cabling, but all help appreciated.
Thanks
Two months ago I replaced the original R/R (was still ok.) by a japanese shindengen one, as I often read on this forum the original R/R can cause trouble sooner or later.
By checking a few points today (see earlier post) this is what I found: :bug_eye
(http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/h452/iridek1/RR_zpsbcae2e0d.jpg) (http://s1110.photobucket.com/user/iridek1/media/RR_zpsbcae2e0d.jpg.html)
Can this be the cause of the above posted trouble?? anyway I think I'm screwed :BangHead
In the meantime I put the ST one back again, engine starts directly but orange Engine Management Indicator light stays on :icon_sad:
Or have I to wait 3 cycles before it normalizes?
3 Cycles before it will turn off and it's because the bike thinks the battery has been disconnected. I would also check the wiring on the ignition switch the solder connectiions on the back degrade and break.
Quote from: John Stenhouse on May 21, 2014, 11:38:04 PM
3 Cycles before it will turn off and it's because the bike thinks the battery has been disconnected.
Yes, I read I somewhere on the forum from Mustang. But It's the first time the led stays on, although I often disconnected the batt in the past :icon_scratch:
wiring on ignition switch OK.
dit 3 cycles run, but EM led stays on.
I read 13,35V at batt - 13,85 at idll and 14,35 at 3000 rpm
:icon_scratch:
Well the voltages are fine, the three cycles is from cold to hot not just three rides.
Thanks John, I thought the fan had do come on for 3 times :icon_redface:
Have a read up on using TuneEcu as this can read the DTC that is causing the EML to light.
Can also put it out and has very good diagnostics.
Quote from: metalguru on May 22, 2014, 07:34:40 PM
Have a read up on using TuneEcu as this can read the DTC that is causing the EML to light.
Can also put it out and has very good diagnostics.
:thumbsup Yes, I'll consider that.
First time I disconnected the battery to do the sasquatch mod, light came on.
Next time I disconnected everything to upgrade the regulator. Light didn't come on...
I guess they're just temperamental like that.
:icon_scratch:
So far, everything seems to be OK, EM led was out after 2 cycle :thumbsup
BUT .. I'm still wondering why the temp meter went into the red?? Does the broken R/R affect the radiator fan sensor??
Just interested to know :qgaraduate
My guess would be that they're electrical guages and when the power is crazy the guage acts up too
Only a guess because I haven't read the whole thread, but if the reg/rec is fubar'd and is pushing out more than 14v the guage will over-read accordingly.
:iagree
Yes it will and give an EML illumination.
:notworthy thank you guy's !