I'm still getting this surging/pulsing or dieseling effect, the bike starts easily but with a flat spot until warm and rides OK with no
noticable issues at all speeds - except at crawling pace in 1st, its the same surging up to around 2000 rpm then it smooths out.
Its at its worse when the engine is hot.
I've replaced: all carb o-rings
Main jets -105,
pilots 40,
needles and tubes
plugs
carb inlet rubbers
air filter
fuel filter
fuel pipe (& re-routed)
throttle cable
exhaust cans (now standard)
checked: diaphragms with magnifying glass & lamp
float height
airbox, plenum's sealed, snorkel & cap as OE, no leaks at carbs/ breather/drain (plugged) or anywhere else.
tank breather
Needles in middle notch.
I removed fuel pipe inner filter, (Fuel tap filters already missing)
tried fuel/air screws at 1.5, 1.75 then 2 turns out
These video's may help, its more noticable when the camera is near the right of the bike, look at the tacho too.
Also listen near the pipes for the slight 'clacking' sound from the exhaust, I've no idea what that is.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v08ogtqa4sqbypu/MOV_0002.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vyu7x7mv8bz6149/MOV_0001.mp4?dl=0
checked valve gaps?
Quote from: ram33 on March 15, 2015, 09:03:20 PM
checked valve gaps?
No, I suppose its the most likely cause but I need to work on the bike outside so really need the weather for that, I was kind of trusting the last owner :icon_redface: as he said they were checked shortly before I got it (around 4000mls ago)...... I know :nono
maybe crank position sensor if worse when engine hot :^_^
Quote from: JayDub on March 15, 2015, 09:40:50 PM
No, I suppose its the most likely cause but I need to work on the bike outside so really need the weather for that, I was kind of trusting the last owner :icon_redface: as he said they were checked shortly before I got it (around 4000mls ago)...... I know :nono
i was thinking the valves as the gaps tighten as it gets hotter
Quote from: ynotbiker on March 16, 2015, 11:07:08 AM
maybe crank position sensor if worse when engine hot :^_^
I forgot to add that to the 'replaced' list, as it failed around 2,500mls ago... it made no difference though.
my thoughts are to get a vacuum gauge (ie carbtune ) hooked up and I bet you can see the pulsing thats going on
definitely check valves , tight intake will do that .....even to the point of popping back thru the air box :nod
other wise your carburetor's slide bodies worn out and or slides could cause it
I've not had the engine running hot with the carb-tune fitted, but surely that would just indicate which cylinder(s) need attention, as would poking about under the cam cover, the weather looks promising on Wed/Thur so that seems the best route.
Thanks fellas, for convincing me - and dragging me out of denial :thumbsup
Nice day today so... guess what I did -
Cyl 1 - EX .006" .006"
IN .006" .005"
Cyl 2 - EX .010" & .009"
IN .006" & .006"
Cyl 3 - EX .007" & .007"
IN .007" & .007"
Can anyone tell me if the shims are the usual 25mm diameter jobbies?
I stupidly thought that I could easily remove the shims with my usual selection of screwdrivers and bits of metal :nono
Its that steamer thing again. So, has anyone any hints as to where to get a suitable valve tool from without the dealer price (good old Mustang isn't an option - due to shipping costs)
Quote from: JayDub on March 18, 2015, 05:22:09 PM
So, has anyone any hints as to where to get a suitable valve tool from without the dealer price (good old Mustang isn't an option - due to shipping costs)
If you have a modicum of techno-savvy take the cams out to do the shim change. Then you do not need a tool.
Quote from: JayDub on March 18, 2015, 05:22:09 PM
Nice day today so... guess what I did -
Cyl 1 - EX .006" .006"
IN .006" .005"
Cyl 2 - EX .010" & .009"
IN .006" & .006"
Cyl 3 - EX .007" & .007"
IN .007" & .007"
Can anyone tell me if the shims are the usual 25mm diameter jobbies?
I stupidly thought that I could easily remove the shims with my usual selection of screwdrivers and bits of metal :nono
Its that steamer thing again. So, has anyone any hints as to where to get a suitable valve tool from without the dealer price (good old Mustang isn't an option - due to shipping costs)
I would not bother with the shims
yes they are a little loose but nothing to worry about . I'd leave em be myself.
Quote from: Mustang on March 18, 2015, 06:13:14 PM
I would not bother with the shims
yes they are a little loose but nothing to worry about . I'd leave em be myself.
Even the EX on Cyl 2?
Its kind of disappointing though, coz I still don't have a reason for the surging/pulsing :icon_scratch:
I'm gonna try the carbtune to see if I can tell which cyl is misbehaving.
And ARE the shims a standard 25mm diameter? I imagine Triumph in their wisdom, like to use 24 or 26mm :icon_rolleyes:
You can buy the tool for about £25 on eBay. OK for changing 1 or 2 shims,but better to remove cams,then check guides,and replace chain? Shims are STD,same as Yamaha,Honda.
Quote from: threepot on March 18, 2015, 09:37:27 PM
You can buy the tool for about £25 on eBay. OK for changing 1 or 2 shims,but better to remove cams,then check guides,and replace chain? Shims are STD,same as Yamaha,Honda.
Thanks TP, I only really need to change maybe 4 atm. The only one on ebay is £60 inc p+p (new) its a pattern part, and one unused currently £28 with 3 days left.
and guess what... I gave away a dozen shims from my old GS750 last year :icon_cry:
Do you want to borrow my Mustang tool, you can pass it back to me later?
Quote from: JayDub on March 18, 2015, 09:59:32 PM
I gave away a dozen shims from my old GS750 last year :icon_cry:
Hmmmmm. The old GS750 is sitting in the back room collecting dust. Maybe I should pilfer all the shims out of it (I have the Suzuki tool) for potential future Steamer adjustments. :icon_wink: :icon_wink:
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on March 18, 2015, 10:52:38 PM
Do you want to borrow my Mustang tool, you can pass it back to me later?
That just sounds wrong
i went to my triumph dealer to get a couple of shims when i did mine and he just went to the workshop to get them and gave them to me free :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: motoOzarks on March 19, 2015, 08:25:55 AM
That just sounds wrong
I didn't think of that :icon_redface:
Erm... that's between Sin and me motoOzarks :bad :icon_biggrin:
Thanks Niall, your generosity knows no bounds, were you intending to post it then I would post it back?
I will just do the 2 IN and 2 EX I think. I'm impatient so I'll pop the cams out and just see what's already in there, then I can put it back together untill I get some shims then maybe use the tool to install them - the weather is just too good atm :wheel
Quote from: JayDub on March 19, 2015, 11:52:45 AM
I will just do the 2 IN and 2 EX I think. I'm impatient so I'll pop the cams out and just see what's already in there, then I can put it back together untill I get some shims then maybe use the tool to install them - the weather is just too good atm
Tell us how it went. Never having had to change shims before I'm interested to hear about another wrenchers experience.
:iagree
If you get a chance to post some pics too, that'd be great. I'm thinking of having a camchain/shims learning experience next winter.
The shim clearances are all within tolerance at the mo, but I'm starting to think that my camchain may be a bit rattly. I'll have to listen to a few other steamers when we meet in July.
its pretty straight forward..............
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/100_2010.jpg)
take note of where and which way the cam caps go ............IT MATTERS !
Quote from: nickjtc on March 19, 2015, 04:32:14 PM
Tell us how it went. Never having had to change shims before I'm interested to hear about another wrenchers experience.
Its not really advisable to do it the way I did, especially if you have not done it before.
Its best to remove the cams completely, but I'm a cowboy.... I cheated and lined up the cams so none of the lobes were putting much pressure on the valves - by turning the motor - then just took out the bolts and cam caps (the caps are hand engraved with numbers so you know what position they are from), then gently lifted the cams and put a bit of rag under them while I removed the shims one by one to record the sizes, then found that some numpty had inserted one shim upside down and obliterated the numbers :icon_rolleyes: Its handy to have a micrometer :nod
The best bit was removing the shims as they were held firmly by vacuum, due probably to the circular groove on top of the bucket.
I ended up using a well worn thin screwdriver to gently 'chisel' them out at the slots :icon_eek: and a pair of curved long noes pliers to grab them with
Sorry there's no pics - but I got this post a few hours afterwards.
shim ................ magnet
match made in heaven
out of curiosity what size were the shims ?
steamers generally have 2.75 to 2.8 shims when new
Quote from: Mustang on March 19, 2015, 09:04:19 PM
its pretty straight forward..............
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee47/2uoykcuf/repairs/100_2010.jpg)
:ImaPoser :ImaPoser :ImaPoser
Quote from: Mustang on March 19, 2015, 09:25:00 PM
shim ................ magnet
match made in heaven
I normally use one of those telescopic jobbies, but I lost it, and all my other magnets are covered in metal filings and just too difficult to clean (I shouldn't keep them all in the same place - but away from the grinder)
Quote from: Mustang on March 19, 2015, 09:27:45 PM
out of curiosity what size were the shims ?
steamers generally have 2.75 to 2.8 shims when new
The IN on CYL 3 are both 265 and
The EX on CYL 2 are L/H 270 R/H 2.675
I didn't measure the rest as I won't be changing them this time.
Quote from: Mustang on March 19, 2015, 09:11:37 PM
take note of where and which way the cam caps go ............IT MATTERS !
Cam Caps?? The arches that bolt the cam shaft in place?
Quote from: GavD on March 19, 2015, 10:43:16 PM
Cam Caps?? The arches that bolt the cam shaft in place?
yes
Quote from: JayDub on March 19, 2015, 09:39:18 PM
I normally use one of those telescopic jobbies, but I lost it, and all my other magnets are covered in metal filings and just too difficult to clean (I shouldn't keep them all in the same place - but away from the grinder)
You didn't drop it down the plug hole? or are you like a surgeon,who stitches people up,and leave half his tools inside!! :bad
Quote from: threepot on March 20, 2015, 08:42:17 PM
You didn't drop it down the plug hole? or are you like a surgeon,who stitches people up,and leave half his tools inside!! :bad
Well it has been known to happen :icon_redface:
Actually, Its possibly stuck somewhere in the engine compartment of a Citroen Xsara :icon_confused:
While I had the cam cover off the steamer, I did find an old plug washer and a gooey blob of something like bluetack at the bottom of no2 plughole
probably from a failed attempt to remove the washer :icon_rolleyes:
From another thread, this is a timely opportunity:
link removed
Quote from: nickjtc on March 21, 2015, 10:19:10 PM
From another thread, this is a timely opportunity:
link removed
that's wot I posted nick!
that thieving bastard bought one of my tools and then copied them exactly right down to the orings and I hope karma fucks him up good
then cut the price so he could steal sales from the UK source that I sell them to, and thinks he's doing no wrong . Everything he sells he stole the design from someone else .
Links have been deleted ,advertise his stolen shit somewhere else.......................... END OF SUBJECT
I don't spam the board with my stuff and certainly am not going to allow this asshole free advertisement space either .............
copyright laws apparently mean nothing to this dickhead..............................
:iagree Its not like Mustang's are way overpriced. I thought it was a second hand unit until I saw his listing. Making your own for personal use or replicating something that's no longer available is one thing :nono
I wonder if he's from the PRC :augie
Japs did it,now the chinks!
sorry J-Dub but this thread has run it's course ..........lockdown in 3,2,1......................