Can Mustang figure this out...

[JayDub]

I'm still getting this surging/pulsing or dieseling effect, the bike starts easily but with a flat spot until warm and rides OK with no
noticable issues at all speeds - except at crawling pace in 1st, its the same surging up to around 2000 rpm then it smooths out.
Its at its worse when the engine is hot.
I've replaced: all carb o-rings
                 Main jets -105,
                 pilots 40,
                 needles and tubes
                 plugs
                 carb inlet rubbers
                 air filter
                 fuel filter
                 fuel pipe (& re-routed)
                 throttle cable
                 exhaust cans (now standard)
checked: diaphragms with magnifying glass & lamp
          float height
         airbox, plenum's sealed, snorkel & cap as OE, no leaks at carbs/ breather/drain (plugged) or anywhere else.
         tank breather
         Needles in middle notch.
I removed fuel pipe inner filter, (Fuel tap filters already missing)   
tried fuel/air screws at 1.5, 1.75 then 2 turns out

These video's may help, its more noticable when the camera is near the right of the bike, look at the tacho too.
Also listen near the pipes for the slight 'clacking' sound from the exhaust, I've no idea what that is.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/v08ogtqa4sqbypu/MOV_0002.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vyu7x7mv8bz6149/MOV_0001.mp4?dl=0

[ram33]

checked valve gaps?

[JayDub]

checked valve gaps?

No, I suppose its the most likely cause but I need to work on the bike outside so  really need the weather for that, I was kind of trusting the last owner  as he said they were checked shortly before I got it (around 4000mls ago)...... I know 

[ynotbiker]

maybe crank position sensor if worse when engine hot 

[ram33]

No, I suppose its the most likely cause but I need to work on the bike outside so  really need the weather for that, I was kind of trusting the last owner  as he said they were checked shortly before I got it (around 4000mls ago)...... I know 

i was thinking the valves as the gaps tighten as it gets hotter

[JayDub]

maybe crank position sensor if worse when engine hot 

I forgot to add that to the 'replaced' list, as it failed around 2,500mls ago... it made no difference though.

[Mustang]

my thoughts are to get a vacuum gauge (ie carbtune ) hooked up and I bet you can see the pulsing thats going on

definitely check valves , tight intake will do that .....even to the point of popping back thru the air box 

other wise your carburetor's slide bodies worn out  and or slides could cause it

[JayDub]

I've not had the engine running hot with the carb-tune fitted, but surely that would just indicate which cylinder(s) need attention, as would poking about under the cam cover, the weather looks promising on Wed/Thur so that seems the best route.
Thanks fellas, for convincing me - and dragging me out of denial 

[JayDub]

Nice day today so... guess what I did -
Cyl 1 - EX .006"  .006"
           IN .006"  .005"

Cyl 2 - EX .010"  & .009"
            IN .006"  & .006"

Cyl 3 - EX .007"  & .007"
            IN .007"  & .007"

Can anyone tell me if the shims are the usual 25mm diameter jobbies?
I stupidly thought that I could easily remove the shims with my usual selection of screwdrivers and bits of metal 
Its that steamer thing again.  So, has anyone any hints as to where to get a suitable valve tool from without the dealer price (good old Mustang isn't an option - due to shipping costs)
       

[nickjtc]

So, has anyone any hints as to where to get a suitable valve tool from without the dealer price (good old Mustang isn't an option - due to shipping costs)

If you have a modicum of techno-savvy take the cams out to do the shim change. Then you do not need a tool.

[Mustang]

Nice day today so... guess what I did -
Cyl 1 - EX .006"  .006"
           IN .006"  .005"

Cyl 2 - EX .010"  & .009"
            IN .006"  & .006"

Cyl 3 - EX .007"  & .007"
            IN .007"  & .007"

Can anyone tell me if the shims are the usual 25mm diameter jobbies?
I stupidly thought that I could easily remove the shims with my usual selection of screwdrivers and bits of metal 
Its that steamer thing again.  So, has anyone any hints as to where to get a suitable valve tool from without the dealer price (good old Mustang isn't an option - due to shipping costs)
     

I would not bother with the shims
yes they are a little loose but nothing to worry about . I'd leave em be  myself.

[JayDub]

I would not bother with the shims
yes they are a little loose but nothing to worry about . I'd leave em be  myself.

Even the EX on Cyl 2?
Its kind of disappointing though, coz I still don't have a reason for the surging/pulsing 
I'm gonna try the carbtune to see if I can tell which cyl is misbehaving.
And ARE the shims a standard 25mm diameter? I imagine Triumph in their wisdom, like to use 24 or 26mm 

[threepot]

You can buy the tool for about £25 on eBay. OK for changing 1 or 2 shims,but better to remove cams,then check guides,and replace chain? Shims are STD,same as Yamaha,Honda.

[JayDub]

You can buy the tool for about £25 on eBay. OK for changing 1 or 2 shims,but better to remove cams,then check guides,and replace chain? Shims are STD,same as Yamaha,Honda.

Thanks TP, I only really need to change maybe 4 atm. The only one on ebay is  £60 inc p+p (new) its a pattern part, and one unused currently £28 with 3 days left.
and guess what... I gave away a dozen shims from my old GS750 last year 

[Sin_Tiger]

Do you want to borrow my Mustang tool, you can pass it back to me later?