Hi Guys,
I've recently bought my second steamer since my first was stolen and I absolutely love it.
Since buying it I've been out with it a few times and she flies. Only 8500 miles on the clock !
How ever yesterday it wouldn't start. The starter motor makes not even one turn and locks up.
So I charged the battery last night and today the same. I put the bike in to 1st to see if I could push the bike to get the engine to turn over but it won't, it seems the engine has locked up or maybe not?
What should I try next?
I'm happy to take the bike part apart and fix her my self; I'm a quick learning novice!?
Cheers,
Dan
if it wont turn with front sprocket pulley then i would take off the cam cover and check cam chain hasnt snapped or tensioner gone locking the engine.
unlikley though with such low mileage
Hi Ram,
Thanks for the reply. Is it me or should I be able to get the engine turning while in 1st gear as I push the bike along?
Which engine plate should I start removing?
Once I get start I'll be on my my way?
I remember with my BSA B25 it used to leak petrol into the cylinder, causing hydraulic lock. Have you tried taking the plugs out, and gently rotating the engine via back wheel?.
Stick her in neutral, remove the cover arrowed and stick a socket on the end of the bolt in the middle and give it a try.
It is actually much harder to turn the engine over in 1st by pushing it - try in top gear and try pushing both forward and backward. If it won't move like that then there's definitely something jamming it. I'd be surprised if it was hydraulic lock as suggested by Phil, but it could be. Taking the plugs out is of course a bit more involved than on a B25 (three times as many for a start!)
Quote from: London_Phil on May 10, 2015, 05:55:33 PM
I remember with my BSA B25 it used to leak petrol into the cylinder, causing hydraulic lock. Have you tried taking the plugs out, and gently rotating the engine via back wheel?.
Is hydraulic lock a possibility?? I suppose if the float bowl outlet/s were blocked and the float needle was clogged up with mung then there would be nowhere else for the fuel to go....???
Fuel would pour out of the overflow.
Iansoady is right, it won't turn in 1st but might in 6th, however, if it is jammed you could make things considerably worse. Gav has the better idea, using a socket and wrench to gently try to turn it over is less likely to do damage. You'll soon know if it's locked or just a starter motor / solenoid issue.
Your first post suggests the motor does turn slightly but not a full turn; does it? I'm assuming everything lights up as it should when you turn the ign on?
Guys thanks SO much for your time.
Yes all electrics (to a novice) seem fine.
Funny you mention the carb floats not closing possibly causing problems; this is exactly what I'm still dealing with as well and have the MIKUNI carbs out again sitting in front of me and for the life of me am trying to work out where the petrol leak is caused from. They look lovely and clean. The float heights are different by about 1.5 mm Would that make such a difference? How on earth do I adjust them?
I've also found a trick to test if the floats are closing the fuel off or not. I squeezed on a length of fuel hose to one end of the float mechanisms fuel line then blew through the pipe to hear the air travelling out of each. I then simultaneously closed each float to have the air be stopped by the little valve. It works on two and on one I can still just, just about hear I can still blow air through it so I guess this must be it. It's a tiny, tiny amount of air I can blow through this one but I've got to go with this as I can't find anything else (and the float heights) and am replacing this one needle with this one:
http://www.triumphparts.gbr.cc/product.php/5158931/
When it arrives I'll work out how on earth to replace it !
Tomorrow I'm also going to buy a MOTOBATT as I know them to be very reliable batteries and they dont even require charging. I'll fit that then see if the motor turns.
If not I'll then take that crank case off and try that just to be sure that at least the engine can turn over. If the engine can turn over then it's likely the starter motor but I really want to avoid taking this out as I've seen its behind a bit fat hose connected to the main block.
She's a beautiful bike. I can't wait to get her sorted.
Any further tips on anything I mention here I'd very much welcome.
Thanks again guys.
:notworthy
orings round float prob leaking
see this thread
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php?topic=12561.0
can get a sets of seals here as well as the float valve
http://www.motocarb.com/
Make sure you give the Motobatt a full charge before you try ANYTHING, at leastovernight, don't want to kill a nice new battery.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on May 10, 2015, 11:29:04 PM
Make sure you give the Motobatt a full charge before you try ANYTHING, at leastovernight, don't want to kill a nice new battery.
Hi Sin,
These MOTOBATT batteries come fully charged and ready to go.
Quote from: ram33 on May 10, 2015, 10:53:12 PM
orings round float prob leaking
see this thread
http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php?topic=12561.0
can get a sets of seals here as well as the float valve
http://www.motocarb.com/
Brilliant !
I'll ask if they also have the replacement bolts for float bowl tray screws.
I've already replaced the 'o' rings at each end of each float and the seal gasket around on each float bowl.
I've just now worked out how to change the float needles and adjust the float heights. It really is a case of pulling the float sections apart then bending the little spring plates !! I've also read the optimum height to set these MIKUNI carb floats is 14.5mm.
Listen to me, I'm starting to sound like you guys !
Quote from: Danwarb on May 10, 2015, 11:36:19 PM
Listen to me, I'm starting to sound like you guys !
GOOD for you. Won't be long until you are bs-ing like the rest of us. :icon_lol: :icon_wink: :icon_lol:
I would try Gavs suggestion. Take plugs out,then remove cover and turn engine over. If that's OK,likely to be starter/electrical issue? If you have to remove starter,draining and re-filling coolant is straight forward on these. Try new battery with plugs out?,and check solenoid connections. Probably/hope its something simples!
Hi guys,
Taking you pro's advice I'm going to replace the Phillips screws on the MIKUNI carbs with bolts.
Will these A2 bolts be good?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mikuni-Carb-Bowl-Screws-M4-x-12mm-packs-of-4-Multi-Listing-/221202528149?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item3380b2b795
Will these bolts replace all 12 on either side of the carb?
The 13th one I'll file down for the tick over adjuster?
Just found this INCREDIBLE Nut and Bolt store in Brighton. Their prices are UNREAL AND their on line.
http://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Metric_Socket_Cap_Head_Screw__A2__35.html
I'm going in with my carbs, I'll lay them on the counter then I'll undo each screw at a time and hand them over to the assistant to replace and match each for bolts !!!!
:ImaPoser
Quote from: Danwarb on May 10, 2015, 11:33:56 PM
These MOTOBATT batteries come fully charged and ready to go.
The first Motobatt I used only registered just over 80% of it's CCA when I put a load tester across it out of the packaging and I know from bitter experience how easy it is to give it "just one more try" and get it hotter than is good for it :augie just saying.
I routinely replace as many screws as I can with A2 socket head. where appropriate. Namrick have been around for donkeys and are a good bunch.
Quote from: Danwarb on May 10, 2015, 11:36:19 PM
I've also read the optimum height to set these MIKUNI carb floats is 14.5mm.
That's what the bible says
Quote from: Danwarb on May 10, 2015, 11:36:19 PM
I've also read the optimum height to set these MIKUNI carb floats is 14.5mm.
Has anyone out there ever had a float height change just during the course of riding? I've never had it happen, and have always assumed that if there is no fuel peeing out of the overflows and the bike is running well, there is no need to even check it...?? Carbs are not my favouritist things to work on y'see
Ive had the whole float assembly drop down..noticed fuel thru the airbox! But luckily not when out riding.
You guys have been so good to me . . .
I did charge the MOTOBATT when I got it home and within 20 minutes of trickle charge I got the green light.
Fitted it, pressed the ignition just to check the electric motor would turn over and it did three times, second push once, third once. So It wasn't the battery. Either the engine jamming or the starter.
I then as you guys said removed the spark plugs (the lowest one when on the stand seemed oily, the other two quite dirty and I only fitted them a week ago. Any ideas?)
I then took that right hand lower engine case off and gave that nut a crank and I could turn the engine over. Ok so the engines not locked. Slow going but all good. Spark plugs back in.
Emptied the coolant, removed that fat water pipe from the engine block and my God was the water deep green but in the engine block really rusty brown. I'd like to flush the system out properly. Is there a way I can fill it, start it then see the coolant being pumped out of the bike to ensure the pump is working while flushing it all out?
I then got the starter motor out, took it home and this is what I found once I took it apart:
Graphite contacts ground down and I'm sure the graphite was slightly damp.
Could it be that the because the carbs haven't been closing off properly that petrol has poured in the starter motor?
I'll order the Denso electric start motor return brush kit and renovate it before putting back on the bike. Getting there . . .
These are the ones, only two Brushes.
http://www.triumphparts.co.uk/product.php/5730158/
Hi guys,
I'm in a it of heavy thought and wondered if you could let me know your experiences. :icon_scratch:
I learned win my old Honda CBX 750 that when I'd constantly press and press the starter motor to try and start the bike that the brushes would heat up the commutators (the copper parts on the spindle the brushes run over) to the point that the commutators would buckle, become very much undulated then would very, very quickly grind down the graphite brushes.
In this image of my starter motor (by DENSO) here the commutators aren't 'as new' shall we say. They should be really smooth and I'm worried the next brushes will wear away quickly but I can't tell if the texture of these commutators as I run the pad of my thumb over them is simply the edges of each commutator or if the commutators are actually buckled.
I could lock the other end in to my Makita drill, spin it and file the commutators down smooth a bit but this then slightly widens the gap the brushes need to span across to brush the commutators.
What do you think?
Forget about it and get on with it?
Have you continually tried to start your Tiger and found the motors has been fine for years after?
Cheers,
Dan
:notworthy
Also I emptied the coolant, removed that fat water pipe from the engine block and my God was the water deep green but in the engine block really rusty brown. :icon_scratch:
Surely the water should be the same colour through out if it's circling?
I'd like to flush the system out properly. Is there a way I can fill it, start it then see the coolant being pumped out of the bike to ensure the pump is working while flushing it all out?
How else can I check the pump is working please guys?
:ear
It would be worth checking the thermostat as that effectively isolates the block from the rest of the system when closed.
So you now seem to have an entirely new set of problems?
Quote from: Danwarb on May 12, 2015, 10:51:25 AM
I could lock the other end in to my Makita drill, spin it and file the commutators down smooth a bit but this then slightly widens the gap the brushes need to span across to brush the commutators.
What do you think?
Commutator should be smooth as you say; even using emery will leave it rough enough to spark then you get pitting and burning. I used to skim them on a lathe ( which you can't) but finish them with scotchbright (green pan scourer). Looking at yours, a spin in your drill and polish with scotchbright should suffice. When you're happy with it, clean the copper dust out from between the segments carefully. Don't dig grooves otherwise you'll just accelerate the wear on the new brushes.
:iagree good clean after polishing is important, beware some electrical "cleaners" leave a residue, if you're not sure use pure alcohol.
If you can feel a step between the copper segments with your fingernail that's enough. If not, you can lower the insulator slightly using a used hacksaw blade. Don't use a new blade, it's too severe. Draw the blade outward only, I.e. place the blade on the insulator with the teeth pionting towards the shaft end and pull towards the shaft end once only, stop and check with fingernail, repeat as required. Polish and clean when your done. If you're fitting new brushes, spin it up on the bench, then open it to check the brush contact is good and even, wash or blow out the new dust, the first 10 spins generate most of the dust over the life of a set of brushes .
Brilliant posts guys ! Thanks so much.
Ok I'll give the commutators a minimal file down as I really need to by spinning the Center pin my drill then I'll carefully clean the grooves in between them with an old hack saw blade then polish with a scouring pad before assembling it with new brushes. Brilliant !
:thumbsup
Quote from: Danwarb on May 12, 2015, 11:02:29 AM
Also I emptied the coolant, removed that fat water pipe from the engine block and my God was the water deep green but in the engine block really rusty brown. :icon_scratch:
Surely the water should be the same colour through out if it's circling?
I'd like to flush the system out properly. Is there a way I can fill it, start it then see the coolant being pumped out of the bike to ensure the pump is working while flushing it all out?
How else can I check the pump is working please guys?
:ear
Any tips for this please guys?
run it with the radiator cap off and when the thermostat opens you should be able to see the coolant in radiator moving .
you will need to have the fuel tank off the bike though so you can see in the rad.
Quote from: Mustang on May 12, 2015, 04:52:15 PM
run it with the radiator cap off and when the thermostat opens you should be able to see the coolant in radiator moving .
you will need to have the fuel tank off the bike though so you can see in the rad.
Brilliant Mustang ! Thank you.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on May 12, 2015, 11:16:30 AM
Commutator should be smooth as you say; even using emery will leave it rough enough to spark then you get pitting and burning. I used to skim them on a lathe ( which you can't) but finish them with scotchbright (green pan scourer). Looking at yours, a spin in your drill and polish with scotchbright should suffice. When you're happy with it, clean the copper dust out from between the segments carefully. Don't dig grooves otherwise you'll just accelerate the wear on the new brushes.
I've spun my motors commutators over a file then to finish actually spun the commutators over a clean steel plastering trowel in an attempt to buff the copper contacts. To some degree it's worked.
Maybe I'll keep going a bit more with this tomorrow !
That looks pretty good, doing any more will just remove a lot of copper unnecessarily.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on May 13, 2015, 08:35:02 AM
That looks pretty good, doing any more will just remove a lot of copper unnecessarily.
Hi Sin,
Yes absolutely I'm with you how ever I couldn't sleep last night thinking about how I might polish these commutators further. The thought of crunching down new brushes in no time drove me nuts !!
This was the process I applied to get to beautifully smooth and polished commutators with out removing much copper.
1) Attach the motor spindle on to a cordless drill.
2) Spin the commutators over a file as lightly as possible to just, just about get the commutators back in shape.
3) Then spin the commutators lightly again over a FINE pumis stone.
4) Then spin the commutators lightly over a flat steel plate such as a plasterers trowel.
5) Then run the back side of a Stanley blade along between the commutators to remove any built up filed away copper and dirt.
6) Finally the best bit ! (I got this idea from watching my barber sharpen razors) Get an old leather belt, lay it along the edge of chopping board, place with commutators flat on the leather then give it a good 3 to 5 minute spin and VOILA !!
Polished, shiny commutators !!! WOHOOOOOoooo !!!
:thumbsup
DARN IT !!
I've put the reconditioned motor in the bike and it turned ok.
Re-assembled the rest of the bike then went to start it.
First time it turned over 6 times then stopped, second time twice then third time once before the stater didn't turn over any more.
Could it be the battery drained flat over 2 days while connected?
Could it be the sprag clutch? Is that a symptom?
:icon_scratch:
did you check the windings on the motor armature ?
sprag problem usually makes a loud clunking noise like a hammer hitting the crankcase
I would tend to listen to Sin regarding the battery, (he knows a thing or two in that department :icon_wink:) a 20 min charge wouldn't help a great deal, charge it overnight - regardless of the claims of the manufacturer. :nod
I'd take the thermostat out to flush,it could be stuck closed as Ian says?? Its in the pipe that fits to the top of radiator. Did you crank engine over with plugs out? Is your other battery totally caput? Worth charging,and trying that?
On Mottobat batteries...I was told by someone who works for a well known retailer,that they have lot's of this brand returned!! Thats why I bought a Yuasa!
Quote from: threepot on May 13, 2015, 11:44:27 PM
I'd take the thermostat out to flush,it could be stuck closed as Ian says?? Its in the pipe that fits to the top of radiator. Did you crank engine over with plugs out? Is your other battery totally caput? Worth charging,and trying that?
On Mottobat batteries...I was told by someone who works for a well known retailer,that they have lot's of this brand returned!! Thats why I bought a Yuasa!
BANG ON Mr Threepot !!
It was a dud MOTOBATT !! I fitted my previous battery, it took a few turn to suck in petrol then she started YES YES YES !! I took her for a spin and the exeleration was SO much better than before ! PLENTY OF POWER !! Wohooooo !!
So my starter motor refurb worked out a treat AND not one drop of petrol from the carbs so I've sorted those out as well.
Thanks so much to all of you. I couldn't have done it with out you.
My next challenge was that when I'd power down the revs would drop so low the engine kept cutting out. I guess I need to adjust the throttle cable setting at the carb end right?
:notworthy
Good for you; SOOO nice when spending a few hours/days making love (aka fettling) to our machines produces positive results. :icon_wink:
Nice one :thumbsup No excuse for not joining us in July now eh?? :augie
Quote from: Danwarb on May 14, 2015, 02:16:31 AM
My next challenge was that when I'd power down the revs would drop so low the engine kept cutting out. I guess I need to adjust the throttle cable setting at the carb end right?
:notworthy
the throttle cable is not for setting the tickover and it should have a bit of free play (so you can turn bars without it reving up) the tickover is set with the knob o the side. if it ticks over ok when standing but drops when you close throttle when riding, make sure the carbs are balanced. if so then i would look adusting the mixture screws slightly
Quote from: ram33 on May 15, 2015, 10:57:16 AM
the throttle cable is not for setting the tickover and it should have a bit of free play (so you can turn bars without it reving up) the tickover is set with the knob o the side. if it ticks over ok when standing but drops when you close throttle when riding, make sure the carbs are balanced. if so then i would look adusting the mixture screws slightly
Hi Ram !
Thanks for this.
Ok . . . I've reading about carburettors and how they work. Air and petrol usually controlled by an air mixture screw and a petrol mixture screw.
The carbs them selves all close to exactly the same place so all open equally parallel.
Currently the tick over screw seems to have virtually no influence what so ever because the current air/petrol is so bad at low revs. The engine starts ok and begins ticking over ok but then the engine begins to splutter and conks out unless I begin opening the choke. It'll then only idle at say 2000 revs !!
Ram or any if you, where do I start with these settings?
Cheers so much guys,
Dan
:ear
:bug_eye I hope you're using "file down" as a generic rather than literal term - a file will render them f**ked.....
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on May 15, 2015, 12:10:52 PM
:bug_eye I hope you're using "file down" as a generic rather than literal term - a file will render them f**ked.....
Hi Bob,
To initially lightly file get the commutators back in shape it worked brilliantly.
It's the post about my carb settings above I'd love any insight on please?
:ear
The usual for Mikuni's fuel/air screws are 1.5-2 turns out - (start with 1.5), even though the butterfly valves are equal the carbs may still be out of balance, make sure that the carb to airbox rubbers are sealing properly and that you re-attached the breather pipe to the airbox, You did make sure the tiny o'rings under the carb tops were in place? and the vacuum blanking caps are on?
One of the first jobs when the carbs are off.........unscrew the idle adjuster,and apply copper grease or the like!! Can the bike idle with a 'little' throttle? If so,and stalls when you release,maybe your idle adjustment is seized? Assuming you have a little free play in the cable?
Quote from: JayDub on May 15, 2015, 02:43:22 PM
The usual for Mikuni's fuel/air screws are 1.5-2 turns out - (start with 1.5), even though the butterfly valves are equal the carbs may still be out of balance, make sure that the carb to airbox rubbers are sealing properly and that you re-attached the breather pipe to the airbox, You did make sure the tiny o'rings under the carb tops were in place? and the vacuum blanking caps are on?
Brilliant Jay !!
Ok . . .
The breather pipe to the air box is on fine (the snorkel has the cap on it too).
The tiny o'rings are in place too.
First I'll check all the rubbers either side of the carbs are done up well. I have a feeling that one rubber to the engine block I've not managed to tighten properly so may need new jubilee clips.
What are the 'vacuum blanking caps' please super Jay?
:icon_salut:
Quote from: threepot on May 15, 2015, 09:28:10 PM
One of the first jobs when the carbs are off.........unscrew the idle adjuster,and apply copper grease or the like!! Can the bike idle with a 'little' throttle? If so,and stalls when you release,maybe your idle adjustment is seized? Assuming you have a little free play in the cable?
BRILLIANT Mr Threepot,
Once I've checked all the rubbers are sealed properly I'll then check this idle knob.
Thanks loads.
I'm working on this tomorrow and I'll let you know !
I'm going to replace the jubilee clips either side of each carb.
What size am I looking for?
Any recommendations?
:notworthy
Quote from: Danwarb on May 16, 2015, 12:33:13 AM
BRILLIANT Mr Threepot,
Once I've checked all the rubbers are sealed properly I'll then check this idle knob.
Thanks loads.
I'm working on this tomorrow and I'll let you know !
Check it whilst carbs are off!! Also,make sure the inlet filters into the carbs..T piece..also known as 'witches hat' are clean?
the vacuum caps are the ruber cap that go onto the little tubes pointing up between the carbs and engine where you attach the the vacuum gauges for balancing.
for mikuni carbs, these are the settings i use. make sure carbs are clean including tiny airways, and no air leaks anywhere.
105 mains and #40 pilots
clip needle in middle position on all three
snorkel capped and stock exhaust
mixture 2-2 1/4 turns out
float height 14.5 mm
Item 14 is the small rubber cap that should be in place on all 3 carbs. It's also where you will connect the carb balancer. If you have a Scotoiler, or evidence that one has been fitted in the past, check that they are all in place and that a 3 into 1 tube arrangement has not been fitted, if so remove it, blank the holes with some tape or heatshrink, set the engine up first and worry about the oiler later.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on May 16, 2015, 12:30:49 PM
Item 14 is the small rubber cap that should be in place on all 3 carbs. It's also where you will connect the carb balancer. If you have a Scotoiler, or evidence that one has been fitted in the past, check that they are all in place and that a 3 into 1 tube arrangement has not been fitted, if so remove it, blank the holes with some tape or heatshrink, set the engine up first and worry about the oiler later.
Threeport, Sin and Ram THANKS SO much !!
I checked the rubber caps where in place. Thanks for teaching me this and what they cover.
I've checked the idle knob and it seems I'd inadvertently would it down to too low revs. It was good to inspect this and now also learn how this works. All it does is open the throttle slightly !
I then fitted new jubilee clips, started her and SHE RUNS GREAT !!!
I took her out for a spin and 1000 to 4000 revs she pulls constantly, no flat spots till around 5000 revs then at 5500 she fine again to the top !! Good enough for me for now. I've got HOT wheels !!! YES YES YES !!!
A new problem I've got is with these jubilee clips. See here in the picture as I tighten them they squeeze the rubber boots off the carb exits or air box. I notice the ones that where on the bike before only tightened so far then stop so I get this is why they where designed as so but when I had the original jubilee clips tightened right up as far as they'd go they where still loose around the engine inlets.
How do you guys get round this?
:notworthy
Quote from: Danwarb on May 16, 2015, 06:37:57 PM
A new problem I've got is with these jubilee clips. See here in the picture as I tighten them they squeeze the rubber boots off the carb exits or air box. I notice the ones that where on the bike before only tightened so far then stop so I get this is why they where designed as so but when I had the original jubilee clips tightened right up as far as they'd go they where still loose around the engine inlets.
How do you guys get round this?
:notworthy
try moving them a little closer to the carb side , as you have them in pic you are not really clamping down on the mouth of the carb :nod
Quote from: Mustang on May 16, 2015, 07:16:56 PM
new rubbers with oem clamps or find some narrower hose clamps , the ones in your pic will always always always do what you say
Hi Mustang,
It seemed like these new Jubilee clips where too slim already as they don't fully fill the width of the groove for them on the outside of the rubbers? Surely you mean wider so they don't slide along in to the remaining space of the groove in the rubber not slimmer?
In searching for OEM clamps they look good.
Do any of you have a link to buying them to suit our MIKUNI carbs in the UK please?
Cheers,
Dan
I edited ..................... :icon_redface: re read my post
you are clamping on nothing
your rubbers and clamps aint far enough onto the carbs
I'm with Mustang, they look wider than the stock bands and it's possible squeezing them tight is actually squeezing the rubbers off the edge of the carb stub, possibly even restricting the intake. Look for narrow width hose clips or you might even try using cable ties. If they are still soft and a good fit they won't need to be really tightly tensioned.
Quote from: Mustang on May 16, 2015, 07:50:06 PM
I edited ..................... :icon_redface: re read my post
you are clamping on nothing
your rubbers and clamps aint far enough onto the carbs
Hi Mustang,
Yes I get what you mean and these jubilee clips where over the carb spout as I began tightening them then they seemed to slide along and off the carb mounting ! SO annoying ! It's difficult to know how tight to get them before they do this.
The stock ones aren't for sale on the world of Triumph site so I'll look for a MIKUNI carb parts dealer in the UK to find the right ones.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on May 16, 2015, 07:52:32 PM
I'm with Mustang, they look wider than the stock bands and it's possible squeezing them tight is actually squeezing the rubbers off the edge of the carb stub, possibly even restricting the intake. Look for narrow width hose clips or you might even try using cable ties. If they are still soft and a good fit they won't need to be really tightly tensioned.
What do you think of these Sin?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-STAINLESS-clips-Triumph-Bonneville-America-Scrambler-Airbox-Carburettor-Inlet-/370628358678?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item564b2bf216
this lot are very helpful and may have some:
http://www.motocarb.com/
As Mustang points out, the stub on the head side of the carb is only 13mm (groove in the middle) so there isn't a lot to play with. You must get the rubber pushed on as far as possible, a little Fairy Liquid will help and it goes tacky quite quickly so don't worry about it slipping off.
Tridon, as good a make as you'll find and all 304 rather than just the band is good, what I can see in the photo looks right?
The stock clamps are a shade under 9mm wide so I don't see a problem with 8mm.
The Steamer rubber outer diameter is, as near as I can measure as I don't have a spare one, 64/5mm. The Bonnie engine rubbers are 60mm, thats an EFI mind you but I believe the carbs are the same. That's the only concern I have, the vendor does not state the model or size range, if they are HAS036 (46mm - 70mm) or even HAS040 (52mm - 76mm) you're good but the next size down HAS032 (40mm - 64mm) is not going to work. But hey, this is his business, drop him an email and explain, he'll probably have stock of what you need.
As BB says, for definitive information, even the stuff you'd rather not hear, Steve at Motocarb is the go to guy, what he doesn't know about carbs of that era is probably not worth knowing.
Found these:
http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triumph_motorcycle_parts_locator.php?block_01=&block_02=100058914-0-2&block_03=23773
Just a thought but, are the expansion rings (#3) in place.
Don't think you get them with 'new' manifold rubbers? But use old ones. Trident rubber manifolds are slightly shorter,which makes it a bit easier to replace carbs :icon_wink:
Quote from: threepot on May 17, 2015, 01:02:39 AM
Don't think you get them with 'new' manifold rubbers? But use old ones. Trident rubber manifolds are slightly shorter,which makes it a bit easier to replace carbs :icon_wink:
That is a useful bit of info.
It sounds as though you're on a steep learning curve but getting there.... Well done.
Did you sort out your coolant problem?
Quote from: threepot on May 17, 2015, 01:02:39 AM
Don't think you get them with 'new' manifold rubbers? But use old ones. Trident rubber manifolds are slightly shorter,which makes it a bit easier to replace carbs :icon_wink:
Are we talking about the airbox side? I thought if the expansion rings were missing/mis-aligned that it could cause the rubbers to slip off.
Rubber manifolds..carbs to engine.
My apologies, I thought it was the airbox rubbers... so how come the lip and groove aren't holding them in place on the carbs I wonder? they must be a sloppy fit.
Quote from: iansoady on May 17, 2015, 11:03:39 AM
It sounds as though you're on a steep learning curve but getting there.... Well done.
Did you sort out your coolant problem?
Hi guys,
In the end I spoke to Steve at Motocarb and he sent me some new jubilee clips. They where exactly the same as the ones I fitted !! :ImaPoser
In the end I learned to lever the far side of each jubilee clip with an old rounded chisel while I used a screwdriver to nudge the other side in to place as I tightened them. All six jubilee clips are now well placed. The next time I clean these carbs out I'm looking at that delightful riffle all over again !
THANKS SO MUCH TO ALL OF YOU. :notworthy
Your help has enabled me to really enjoy repairing this bike and now have her running really well.
The coolant system I'm still not confident is working properly but it may be. :icon_scratch:
With Mustangs advice I started the bike, had the coolant cap off and saw a bubble every so often rise out of the coolant but no other seeming movement as if the liquid is being pumped around it.
Also I took the coolant feed that I guess feeds the coolant back in to the reservoir under the seat.
Surely as the engine coolant is pumped around I should be able to see it being pumped back in to the reservoir?
Does the temp gauge show high after 5-10 mins or does the fan come in before that, if not it should be OK. Mine doesn't take very long to reach normal operating temp, and never fluctuates from that unless ticking over stationary - as it should do. As far as I know the system doesn't need bleeding, and the coolant only flows into the expansion reservoir when very hot, don't forget that the system works under pressure so any flow would be gentle with the cap off... do you have a manual?
Don't worry about expansion tank until the system is full. Get the bike level,pour in coolant mix into radiator until its Full whilst engine is running. Leave it run for a couple of mins should be enough.Replace cap. Check expansion level after engine is warm. Thats what I do anyhow.
Steamers take 2.8ltrs
Quote from: JayDub on May 20, 2015, 08:45:31 PM
Does the temp gauge show high after 5-10 mins or does the fan come in before that, if not it should be OK.
Hi Jay,
Which should I expect?
:ear
In normal use - i.e. riding, it should stay within the 'normal zone', if ticking over with little airflow then it will get quite hot, the gauge would read higher and the fan may kick in after about 10 mins.
As threepot says, but I wouldn't run it without coolant - fill it then start it, let it idle for about 5-10 mins (with the filler cap on) to make sure - ...Anything untoward would be evident by overheating.
If the fan does come on as suggested my first port of call would be the thermostat as I suggested earlier. You can test it easily by putting in a pan of cold water then heating up - you should see it open shortly before boiling point
you guys are aware that there is two temp sensors on a steamer , right ?
one in the head is for the gauge
second one is in the radiator and controls only the fan coming on
I've had both of them fail at one time or another on the four beasts of mine.
so if your gauge says you are overheating , there is a good possibility you're not
like Ian says you can test the thermostat in a pan of boiling water , drop it in , if good you will see it open immediately
and when you tke it out of the water it should close as soon as it cools down enough.
the thermostats very rarely fail BTW
and water pumps will leak when the seal go's bad but they usually will still pump water .
Great to learn. Thanks guys.
I reckon from what you say it's fine !
:thumbsup
Sort that clutch cover and go an ride the beast. you've earned it! :nod
Quote from: JayDub on May 21, 2015, 03:40:29 PM
Sort that clutch cover and go an ride the beast. you've earned it! :nod
Thanks Jay !
YES !!!
I'm actually riding out in to Sussex for a festival. The new clutch plate arrives tomorrow but even if I don't get time the hole is tiny so I'll be fine.
Also the bike as a new Mitcheling Anakee 2 front tire and she passed her not with out even one advisory !
It's all come together at last ! I can't wait !!!