You're working around gasoline here, so extinguish open-flame heaters, pilot lights, etc. Don't smoke, and keep smokers out of the work area until your done, lest they breeze in and absentmindedly light up. Just a single gasoline vapor explosion will ruin your whole day.
This is a heck of a lot easier when the tank is empty, and you're not fighting against the weight of six gallons (about 24 liters) of fuel (about 40 pounds / 18.2 kilos).
If you have pullback handlebar risers, remove the handlebars (leave the cables, etc. connected and swing it up out of the way) and risers to make room for lifting the tank. You won't have room otherwise, and you'll scratch the tank to hell and gone trying to get it off. Don't ask me how I know. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/bluduh.gif)
First, remove the seats.
Then disconnect and remove the battery.
Remove the black plastic side panels on either side of the tank (5mm hex).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1814.jpg)
Once loose, gently pull the panels rearward to unhook them from under the tank. Don't pull them outward, or you'll break off the hooks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1820.jpg)
In addition to two T-30 Torx bolts, the left one is also held in place with a rubber grommet. Be gentle, pulling straight outward (just a bit, right at the grommet) to unplug the panel from the grommet, then rearward to unhook the front edge from under the tank.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1816.jpg)
Remove the battery box by removing the T-30 Torx bolts shown, and the 10mm bolt at the bottom...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1809.jpg)
When the battery box is loose, unclip the main fuse from the left side of the battery box.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1812.jpg)
Remove the front turn signal panels...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1538.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1539.jpg)
And using a special home-grown tool, a T-30 bit (5mm hex will work also) in a 1/4-inch combination wrench...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1540.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1541.jpg)
Remove the upper tank-mount bolt (4mm hex). NOTE: If you have Up-and-Back bar risers (like I do), remove them completely (like I didn't), or you won't have enought room between the tank and the risers to get the tank off without scratching the hell out of it (like I did).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1821.jpg)
Remove the lower tank-mount bolt (T-30 and extensions).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1813.jpg)
Unplug the vent hoses from the left side of the tank. Note that the vent hose with the black plastic one-way valve is on the inboard tank connection...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1822.jpg)
Unplug the fuel pump electric connection. This photo is of my later 2005, engine numbers 207447 and up...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1823.jpg)
Very early 2005 and older models look like this (up to engine number 207446)...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/tigershit.jpg)
Unplug the fuel gauge electrical connection...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1825.jpg)
Squeeze the sides of the fuel fitting to unlock it, and gently pull down to unplug it. (Previous year models have two fittings, one for pressure and one for return. Mark them to avoid confusion during reassembly)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1824.jpg)
G-e-n-t-l-y slide the tank forward and lift upward from the rear. Have a large open area to lay the tank on, as it's quite a bit larger than it initially seems. Lay a couple old towels or similar padding down first, as the front lobes of the tank will contact whatever you lay it on.
During reassembly, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a dab of dielectric grease into all the electrical connectors, to keep power-robbing corrosion at bay.
I had the front off mine the other day, but I noticed on my tank at the bottom front of the fairing where it comes near the turnsignals and nose pices there is a set of grommets, but nothing attached?
Mine too. It's just padding, I think, to keep things from rattling against each other.
Stretch,
These how to guides are great, especially for us not too competent mechanics, they definitely need a sticky.
Thanks a bunch for the pictures, Stretch. I have been afraid to pull the tank....now it is no longer an unknown.
Quote from: "HockleyBoy"These how to guides are great, especially for us not too competent mechanics, they definitely need a sticky.
Links to all these threads are posted in the stickied Girly Wisdom thread.
Quote from: "Stretch"[Links to all these threads are posted in the stickied Girly Wisdom thread.
Sorry, missed that
A bolt in the 9th picture (5mm Hex) is stripped out.
Any suggestions on how to get it out?
And the bolt at the bottom of my battery tray appears to be Torx. Is it T-30 as well?
The bolt at the bottom of my battery tray is not original. I should have said so, sorry. Just about all the Torx bolts on a Girly are T-30 (with the exception of the engine mount bolts, which are T-55), so it's most likely that your original battery box bolt is T-30 as well.
The bolt threads are stripped, or the inside of the hex socket? If it's just the inside of the hex socket, small vise-grips may be able to grasp the head of the bolt.
Yeah the Allen head is stripped.
I'll try vise grips, but there is a rubber washer or something that makes the bolt head sort of inset.
Next I guess will be to try to Dremel a slot in it and use a stubby flat head screw driver.
That'd work. A bit labor-intensive, but vise-grips always slip and pinch the crap out of my fingers.
I got it out but not how I would have liked.
Vise grips would not get a hold of it, so I broke out the dremel. The head was so soft and the chewed out 5mm area so large, that once I got the stubby flat head on it, it too stripped out.
I decided to cut off the sides of the head to improve the vise grip's hold, but that too didn't help. I popped in a grinder bit and attempted to grind the head off, but I wore out the grinding bit before the head was completely free. So again with the vise grips I tried to twist was was left of the head of. Suddenly the bolt started to turn so I turned and turned the head but it wasn't backing out. I realized the the insert in the signal assembly must be turning from the heat, and when I grabbed it, it feel free.
Better that than the tank I guess. Maybe I'll be able to get the screw free with vise grips on both sides and epoxy the insert back in...
I have just removed and refitted my tank due to a water leak from a loose hose clip, the guide saved me a lot of time and effort. :D
Cheers Ade.
Well, good! Happy to be of service. :thumbsup
Ok, what am I doing wrong. I can't get it in the hole! :shock:
(http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r143/Jaredcm1/Tiger/DSCN0763.jpg)
Everything else is lined up. I've pulled the tank off and sat it back on three times but it always lines up the same.
The threads are goofed up as well. I've never "cleaned" up threads before. what's the process? Or is that thread replaceable from underneath?
The tanks are actually quite flexible and what you show has happened to me. It all pulled back into place when I slackened off the back mouting a bit.
To "clean up" the thread you use a tap - you only need a cheap carbon steel set for that sort of job which are available here in the UK for about £15 or so. It looks like a 6mm diameter, and the pitch is probably 1mm. Measure these on the bolt that holds it in.
Cleaning up threads with a tap is easy but you need to make sure the tap enters the thread dead sqare.
Well I currently don't have the back bolt in at all... So I'm still not sure what to try.
As for the thread, it looks like a trip to the surplus tool store is in order... It's horrible to have to go shop for tools :lol:
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Well I currently don't have the back bolt in at all... So I'm still not sure what to try.
As for the thread, it ooks like a trip to the surplus tool store is in order... It's horrible to have to go shop for tools :lol:
looking at the photo , here's what I would try :
start the back bolt but don't tighten more than a turn or two , then raise the front of tank up in the air just a little until you can get the front bolt to start then you should be able to get the bolts to tighten up
These problems are what usually occur when the body work and tank have been sitting not attached to the bike for any length of time , they are plastic and temperature affects them greatly , they can and do expand and contract and makes reassembly tricky sometimes .
you should see what happens to 14 year old plastics that have been off the bike all winter in an un heated garage !
Never replied back, but that worked fantastically Mustang :)
I have an 2004 model with the two hoses. Took the top one off. Had some fuel leak but it stopped. Took the bottom one off. It wouldn't stop leaking. I let it drain into a gas container for a good bit but it never stopped. I had a little more the half a tank but it was coming out slow and steady. I tried plugging it back but it still dripped. I put the bike on the center stand and plugged the hose fitting and this seemed to stop the leaking.
According to the service manual these are supposed to be self-closing. Could the fitting be broke?
If the fuel was coming from the inside of the fitting, it sounds as if the o-ring has degradated, and unfortunately they are not serviceable like the ones on the male fittings.
The fittings from QuickCouplings have BUNA o-rings, which are not quite as good as the Viton rings that are fitted to the factory and TeamTriumph fittings.
With the increase in Ethanol in the fuel we buy it may be that even the Viton rings may even degrade faster over time that before. Most stations that I fuel up from are using 10%. But if you are fueling up from places using 15% or more your going to have more frequent problems.
Stretch (or anyone) I got a couple things for you.
#1- I nearly have my tank off, but came across something... these 2 hoses in your pic here are opposite of what you have here. The hose with the one way valve is on the outside and the other hose was on the inside. What are these hoses, exactly? I had someone else do my valves last (not a Triumph dealer) and I'm wondering what he's bunged up, if anything.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1822.jpg)
#2- Here is a pic you might consider adding under yours which shows the earlier bikes with 2 fuel lines. This looks a lot different than what is on your bike. What is that round connection with the hose on it? Does this need to be removed to finish taking the tank off? Also, when I took the top hose off a lot of fuel is coming out of the hose... I haven't gotten to the bottom one yet... I had to plug the top one back in to come up here and type.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/tigershit.jpg)
Quote from: "flux"these 2 hoses in your pic here are opposite of what you have here. The hose with the one way valve is on the outside and the other hose was on the inside. What are these hoses, exactly?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1822.jpg)
Too funny. Well, some dealer or previous owner got one of ours mixed up. Seriously, my manual says that the inboard hose fitting is the Rollover Valve Connection. The one-way valve is to prevent the tank from emptying in the event of an extended tipover. My manual states that not all bikes were fitted with them. The other hose is for the filler neck vent.
As for the fuel hoses and connectors, I understand that they don't have internal valves to stop the fuel flow when unplugged, only the fittings in the tank. The round thing with the vacuum hose is something to do with the fuel pressure regulator. Others have posted that theirs don't even have the hose connected, or it is missing. And I'll add your photo to my post to show the layout for pre-'05 models. Thanks.
Eric..
Thanks to your pics...
I have completed my 24,000 mile maintenance.
Parts cost me about $145: Mobil Oil, Oil Filter, BMW Fuel Filter, Air filter, and new Peak coolant.
In addition I bought a metric/SAE feeler guage w 32 gauges that have everything I needed. Harbor Freight: $3
My valves checked 'spot-on' ... on the tight side.
The key: Using colored vinyl tape and mark your elctrical and hose connections.
My Triumph dealer told me $550-$580 to do this service. Go Figure!
Priceless!
I'll buy you a Newcastle why I am in the area. ( Going to Montgomery, AL in June and some other date )
Okay, cool. That answers that. So I guess we don't know which way the hoses are meant to be run as far as the one way valve... am I reading you correct on that? I bet it doesn't even really matter.
For anyone doing this with earlier bikes like mine, when you take that top hose off be prepared for gas to come out of there. Luckily I learned a long time ago to keep a container around when I wrench. 8) I did screw up and put my thumb over the line for a second and the pressure shot gas into my eye... owie. That top line wants to continue pouring gas until you wise up and lift the hose just high enough that gravity stops the flow. The bottom hose dribbles a little gas but stops pretty quick.
The "Fuel pressure regulator thingie" (that IS what it is) just has a hose that routes to nowhere, so no worry there.
I did notice that on the frame where the gas tank rests on the sides of the bike I have one rubber fitting over a nipple on the frame but only on one side. I reckon I am meant to have one on each side, eh? The rubbers are meant to cover the part of the frame I highlighted here:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/flux_capacitor/frame.gif)
1. You need both rubber supports....!!!
Look around ... it may have come off when you removed the tank.
If not... the last person to do so did it!
Well Chillun. . .
Here are some tips for replacing the tank.
1. The back TORQUE bolt; Replace it with a hex head... make life easy!
The threads are 6 x 1.0. You can get an exact length replacement at
Westlake hardware. It will have a 10mm hex head.
2. Many have had a difficult time getting it bolted down....
things don't line up:
- Start the rear bolt with only 3/4 - 1 turn ( enough to catch )
- The top is often the 'sum-a-gun'. Hold the rubber bushing to the light
and you will see where the hole is closer to one area of the edge than
any other... place that nearest the tank. CArefully slip the bolt in and
start with your fingers. You may have to straddle the seat frame and
lift up about 1/2" and try to start the bolt... that usually works.
It goes at a steeper angle than you may think.
You'll have to play with it a bit but it will 'catch' ... when it does turn it
in a few good turns ( make certain you have allen wrench at 90° for
leverage).
Now get the rear started.... tighten both... alternating.
PS: Good Way to Lift the Battery: Short rubber bungie strap with 2
metal hooks. Just slip each end under the terminal post and lift.
Shazbah!
Quote from: "TigerTrax"Well Chillun. . .
PS: Good Way to Lift the Battery: Short rubber bungie strap with 2
metal hooks. Just slip each end under the terminal post and lift.
Shazbah!
Good tips. I find the best trick with the battery is to put a webbing strap around it so I can use it as a handle when taking it out.
Thanks TigerTrax. I figured I needed both of them but thought I would double check. I can't seem to find the other one so I guess the last bunghole to do it lost it. Between this and my mixed up hoses I will be doing my own valves next time.
Oh, "Shazbah"? Is that like a Jewish "Shazam"? 8)
PS: I know of 2 different dealers that have lost or left those things off during service work.
No... I believe it became popular when Mork from Mork & Mindy would say it..... I know I have used it many years.
Not familiar with Shazam 'jewish connotation'...
probably not the same as when Gomer would say it on
Mayberry RFD!
I think that if your valves check out good at 12,000 miles.... they will be good at 24,000. These Triumphs 3 cyl are great engines. The valves will stay in tolerance for a long time if you treat the bike well.
Quote from: "Stretch"Very early 2005 and older models look like this..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/tigershit.jpg)
Stretch,
getting set to check my valve adjustment on my 05. when I pulled off my side cover I have no vacuum line attached to the pressure regulator as in your pic.
Where doe's this line go ? I have a shop manual but couldn't find a vacuum diagram.
Flux reported that the other end of his vacuum line wasn't connected to anything, and other members have stated that their hose was missing altogether. And I can't find the other end mentioned in my manual either.
My '05 doesn't have that doo-dad at all, so I can't say from my own experience.
What say ye, 2004 and earlier kitty-whippers?
Quote from: "Stretch"Flux reported that the other end of his vacuum line wasn't connected to anything, and other members have stated that their hose was missing altogether. And I can't find the other end mentioned in my manual either.
My '05 doesn't have that doo-dad at all, so I can't say from my own experience.
What say ye, 2004 and earlier kitty-whippers?
Thanks for the reply ! My tiger runs great, so most likely no vacuum line needed. Maybe it is for the California emission or something.
Stretch is right, that line goes nowhere. It is ziptied somewhere on the right side of the bike close to where the gas tank sits. When I pulled the tank that line pulled off by itself. I wouldn't doubt it if your line (and others') is actually still on the bike, connected to nothing at all. 8)
What amazes me most about Triumph is the amount of bolts they use. WTF? I bet the weight of these things could be reduced by 90% if you took out some bolts. :lol:
MAN. Putting that tank on SUCKS. I too bad the "top hole line up problem". I tried everything including going for a ride on a 950... sadly, when I got back no magic gremlin had come along to do it for me. How irritating.
But I did take advantage while that joker was off and cleaned up my crappy wiring on my aux lights... redid it all since before I basically routed wires around the tank and it was just sloppy looking.
By the way, the rubber O Rings from a garden hose trick worked just fine for a KLR-fix for the fuel tank rubbers. 8)
I had the top bolt line up problem and I think it's because of taking the tank off with too much gas in caused it to stretch out a little bit , so I dremelled out a bit from the tank where the bolt goes thru as there is a lot of meat on there to do it and hey ho problem solved.
Maybe put a bungee or ratchet strap through the two holes? I'd measure the distance first, then check it every once in a while till it's come back some.
I was going to do this but Mustang's trick of leaving the back loose and threading the front bolt with the tank raised seems to have done the trick.
I've learned not to pull the tank if I can unless it's near empty.
Anyone have a good picture of the screw location by the forks that holds the black panel holding the blinker on from the inside?
A picture of the screw itself would be awesome too.
I have a guy parting out his bike that is offering to send me the screw, but he doesn't know what I'm referring to, and this picture didn't help him.
Quote from: "Stretch"Flux reported that the other end of his vacuum line wasn't connected to anything, and other members have stated that their hose was missing altogether. And I can't find the other end mentioned in my manual either.
What say ye, 2004 and earlier kitty-whippers?
I say that my fuel pressure regulator is not connected, and I have no creaking flue where the vacuum line would connect to on the motor. :5huh
My bike is a very very early 2005, with a tank build date of 3/30/04 (Shift 3 / 30-3-04 is listed on the inventory sticker)
(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk104/j_weg_sell/Fulmer%20Helmet/Under%20Pressure/FuelPressureRegulator003.jpg)
Now, my question is I have metal fittings on the lines going into plastic fittings on the side of the tank. Are people finding the majority of their issues with the plastic fittings are with the tank side or line side? I can only guess that the recall must have been done since there is *some* metal fittings used.
Quote from: "Hatepylons"Now, my question is I have metal fittings on the lines going into plastic fittings on the side of the tank. Are people finding the majority of their issues with the plastic fittings are with the tank side or line side? I can only guess that the recall must have been done since there is *some* metal fittings used.
Plastic fittings were used on both ends until 2004. The recall was done in 2003. For 2004 models, the production line was changed to include the new parts. The male fittings (on the hoses) were changed to metal, while the plastic female fittings (on the tank) were deemed adequate and remained unchanged.
Your early '05 has a 2004 fuel system... not uncommon for Triumph to use up old parts on new model years (for example, some early 2001's have the 885i engine).
Quote from: "Stretch"The male fittings (on the hoses) were changed to metal, while the plastic female fittings (on the tank) were deemed adequate and remained unchanged.
Deemed adequate or are adequate, in your opinion? I'm taking a 2K trip in a couple of weeks to the Dragon from Pennsylvania....... now I'm a bit nervous.......
Quote from: "Stretch"Your early '05 has a 2004 fuel system... not uncommon for Triumph to use up old parts on new model years (for example, some early 2001's have the 885i engine).
Makes perfect sense - the lack of vacuum going to the FPR has me confuzed though. Makes me wonder if the pump is overkill........
[/b]
The vacuum line is not connected to anything on most bikes from 2004-2005.
The majority of the plastic fuel fittings have failed on the male side, but there have been several that have had the female fitting on the tank fail. Mostly when removing them, but not all.
Quote from: "Hatepylons"(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk104/j_weg_sell/Fulmer%20Helmet/Under%20Pressure/FuelPressureRegulator003.jpg)
:shock:
--Re: this photo: mine has the same setup--but in about ten tank on-and-offs in the past few weeks, I've gotten confused...my red coupling is on top and silver on the bottom. I think.
Um, I
think...
...Anyone else with this setup can say for sure?
Please...? Then I can do what I should've in the first place and label 'em. :oops:
Don't know about color, but the line mounted on the fuel rail closest tothose connections goes on the top connection. As pictured.
Adding this link for making your own Fuel Hose extensions, handy for running the bike with the tank off in order to sync throttle bodies and also to bleed the cooling system.
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6321 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,6321)
Quote from: "Mustang"Quote from: "EvilBetty"Well I currently don't have the back bolt in at all... So I'm still not sure what to try.
As for the thread, it ooks like a trip to the surplus tool store is in order... It's horrible to have to go shop for tools :lol:
looking at the photo , here's what I would try :
start the back bolt but don't tighten more than a turn or two , then raise the front of tank up in the air just a little until you can get the front bolt to start then you should be able to get the bolts to tighten up
These problems are what usually occur when the body work and tank have been sitting not attached to the bike for any length of time , they are plastic and temperature affects them greatly , they can and do expand and contract and makes reassembly tricky sometimes .
Man that is totally what happened to me. The tank was off the bike for about a month. It would go back on for a few minutes to test something, but I never bolted it in at those times. Now it's all jacked up. Doesn't sit square, won't bolt back in, holds the battery tray at a weird angle. Sigh. Patience will get it right I hope!
It doesn't help that off road "adventures" have bashed up the turn signal parts pretty good too. Lesson learned: get the engine guards first thing, not a couple years in. :roll:
Thankfully mine came with them :)
If it hadn't I would have been not just replacing a pannier lid and a fairing.
Quote from: "ridin gaijin"Quote from: "Hatepylons"(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk104/j_weg_sell/Fulmer%20Helmet/Under%20Pressure/FuelPressureRegulator003.jpg)
:shock:
--Re: this photo: mine has the same setup--but in about ten tank on-and-offs in the past few weeks, I've gotten confused...my red coupling is on top and silver on the bottom. I think.
Um, I think...
...Anyone else with this setup can say for sure? Please...? Then I can do what I should've in the first place and label 'em. :oops:
Ay up from Yorkshire... i have just renewed my female connectors as the top one has decided to crack and leak fuel ( and i hav'nt had the tank of in a couple of years) which is down to fatigue, any way i replace then with the cpc units which i may add also fit direct onto the oem anodised triumph ones.
Anyway you have your lines the wrong way round, ie the red to the bottom (pump out) which is directly connected to the left hand side fuel rail, and the silver to the top as this is the return to the tank from the right hand side of the fuel rail.. i hope the helps as i have used this to get my couplings and it just cost me £34 including postage to the uk, and i did not use the male connectors as the originals fitted.
http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5670 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,5670) :D
Quote from: "EvilBetty"Don't know about color, but the line mounted on the fuel rail closest tothose connections goes on the top connection. As pictured.
Quote from: "GARYSTIGER955i"Anyway you have your lines the wrong way round, ie the red to the bottom (pump out) which is directly connected to the left hand side fuel rail, and the silver to the top as this is the return to the tank from the right hand side of the fuel rail.
Damn...I should've made this a poll! :D "Do you like your red on the top or on the bottom?" or something similar... :o
Anyone have the definitive Answer...? (And please, no one write "42"!)
Quote from: "ridin gaijin"Anyone have the definitive Answer...? (And please, no one write "42"!)
It takes a geek to know a geek. :mrgreen:
Quote from: "ridin gaijin"Quote from: "EvilBetty"Don't know about color, but the line mounted on the fuel rail closest tothose connections goes on the top connection. As pictured.
Quote from: "GARYSTIGER955i"Anyway you have your lines the wrong way round, ie the red to the bottom (pump out) which is directly connected to the left hand side fuel rail, and the silver to the top as this is the return to the tank from the right hand side of the fuel rail.
Damn...I should've made this a poll! :D "Do you like your red on the top or on the bottom?" or something similar... :o
Anyone have the definitive Answer...? (And please, no one write "42"!)
Ok update.... i have started my bike up tonight to find my engine management light was on.. so i got my code reader out.. read the codes and tried to erase all 3 but 1 would not go out and it was a air intake sensor reading high.. so i stripped it all back down to find that i had forgot to plug into the sensor on the airbox at the front, so i have put it back together with the red fuel connector to the top and after switching the ignition on and checking for leaks i erased said code and started her up with no problems and no management light on so after various stops and starts and rechecks with the code reader there are no faults found.. So the story is about the fuel lines :lol: and it dont matter which way they go as it still runs, all i can say is both lines attach to the fuel rail but its the direction in which it flows, as the lines are in and out.. OUT being the lower connector and IN(return) upper.. so there we go PS the code reader is a MAC tools CAN OBD11/EOBD ET80 unit for about £50 quid ($75?) hope this helps :D
Just finished taking off the tank (thanks to this "how-to") and have a few recommendations that helped me.
When I loosened the handlebars, I used a bungee to hold them out of the way while I removed and installed the tank.
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4640.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4641.jpg)
I used a 3/8" drive Torx T-30 socket to remove the inside bolts holding the turn signals instead of the "special tool". Cost me less than $5 at the auto parts store and used it a lot during this process (keeps you from rounding out bolts). You have to turn the forks away from the bolt, but worked great.
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h184/lmdavis57/Bar%20End%20Saver%202000%20Tiger/IMG_4642.jpg)
Lastly, apply a little ArmorAll to the rubber bumpers (horns) before putting the tank back on. I have used this trick a lot for grippy rubber pieces on my old cars. It provides just enough friction relief to slide the tank on with little to no resistance (also helps preserve the part). I had no alignment problems as the tank moved freely enough for me to get a line up first try.
Quote from: "flux"What amazes me most about Triumph is the amount of bolts they use. WTF? I bet the weight of these things could be reduced by 90% if you took out some bolts. :lol:
haha, how true, and it wouldn't help to have consitently used the same types of connectors all around...
That said I'm no mechanic/engineer... Is there a reason that one bolt is hex, the next is torx? Or is it just to support the booming tool economy? :lol: :lol:
Unplug the fuel gauge electrical connection...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v638/Stretch67/IMGP1825.jpg)
Great old post! But I still need a little help. I have a 2006. I rode it a lot back in 2006-2008 and also did most of the maintenance, the tank came off and went back on tens of times.. I did it again this week. Putting it back on I just don't seem to find where to plug the fuel gage wires into. They are tangling from the tank and I cant find the "opposite" plug. Took the tank off again, evel pulled tha airbox to see if I left the wire hidden there. Nothing. If anyone has pictures, or can take pictures; specifically of where does the wire originate from on the bike. Then I could narrow down my search and hopefully find it.. Many thanks! Cheers!
Quote from: TigerTrax on April 12, 2009, 01:56:20 AM
Well Chillun. . .
Here are some tips for replacing the tank.
1. The back TORQUE bolt; Replace it with a hex head... make life easy!
The threads are 6 x 1.0. You can get an exact length replacement at
Westlake hardware. It will have a 10mm hex head.
2. Many have had a difficult time getting it bolted down....
things don't line up:
- Start the rear bolt with only 3/4 - 1 turn ( enough to catch )
- The top is often the 'sum-a-gun'. Hold the rubber bushing to the light
and you will see where the hole is closer to one area of the edge than
any other... place that nearest the tank. CArefully slip the bolt in and
start with your fingers. You may have to straddle the seat frame and
lift up about 1/2" and try to start the bolt... that usually works.
It goes at a steeper angle than you may think.
You'll have to play with it a bit but it will 'catch' ... when it does turn it
in a few good turns ( make certain you have allen wrench at 90° for
leverage).
Now get the rear started.... tighten both... alternating.
PS: Good Way to Lift the Battery: Short rubber bungie strap with 2
metal hooks. Just slip each end under the terminal post and lift.
Shazbah!
I used Stainless Steel allen head bolts for the tank mounts with a stainless washer under each.
also I use tie wraps for lifting the battery, a bigg'un threaded BELOW the square nuts will also hold that nut up high enough to get the bolt started when you reattach the battery leads.