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Recent posts
#11
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Lee337 - August 18, 2025, 10:45:32 AMA flurry of activity in the garage over the past few weeks. I know Daysie wasn't toucged for 8 - 10 months, but now I've got my head back in the game, a lot of stuff has been done.
Yesterday was spent with the battery on charge and me tidying up the shelves where all my bike parts are stored. What I was actually doing was looking for the bolt that fixes the rear of the tank to the frame, I know it was there when I started, but I have no clue where it is now.
But the upshot of all this searching is that I've now thrown a lot of rubbish, reorganised the 'parts' shelf, found the box of fairing bolts etc (which I haddn't realised I'd lost) and now also have a fully recharged battery.
I also attached a battery optimiser connector direct to the battery, so I don't have to keep removing the seat & rear hump every time tbe battery needs a top up.
I'm at the point now where I can't really delay things any longer - I need to throw a few litres of fuel in the tank & see if she'll start.
Except there's a slight issue with the temperature gauge. When I turned the engine over on the starter yesterday, I happened to be looking at the dash and noticed the temp gauge needle jumping up to H. As soon as I stopped turning the engine over, the needle returned to rest. I had a look at the wiring diagram this morning to see if there was any obvious connection between the temp gauge/sender and the rev counter/ignition coil, but there's none I can see., not even a common earth. I suspect the sender but don't really understand why the temp gauge is behaving as it is.
Over the next few days I'll remive the temp sender & check it to see if I get the readings expected at cold/hot. If it is a fualty sender, I'll have to buy a new one. Thankfully Triumph still sell these.
The last pic shows the missing nut holding the rear of the tank in place, the other two are from this weekend. I know they look veryy similar to a couple of photos I took nearly 10 months ago, but honestly, a lot has been done in between
Yesterday was spent with the battery on charge and me tidying up the shelves where all my bike parts are stored. What I was actually doing was looking for the bolt that fixes the rear of the tank to the frame, I know it was there when I started, but I have no clue where it is now.
But the upshot of all this searching is that I've now thrown a lot of rubbish, reorganised the 'parts' shelf, found the box of fairing bolts etc (which I haddn't realised I'd lost) and now also have a fully recharged battery.
I also attached a battery optimiser connector direct to the battery, so I don't have to keep removing the seat & rear hump every time tbe battery needs a top up.
I'm at the point now where I can't really delay things any longer - I need to throw a few litres of fuel in the tank & see if she'll start.
Except there's a slight issue with the temperature gauge. When I turned the engine over on the starter yesterday, I happened to be looking at the dash and noticed the temp gauge needle jumping up to H. As soon as I stopped turning the engine over, the needle returned to rest. I had a look at the wiring diagram this morning to see if there was any obvious connection between the temp gauge/sender and the rev counter/ignition coil, but there's none I can see., not even a common earth. I suspect the sender but don't really understand why the temp gauge is behaving as it is.
Over the next few days I'll remive the temp sender & check it to see if I get the readings expected at cold/hot. If it is a fualty sender, I'll have to buy a new one. Thankfully Triumph still sell these.
The last pic shows the missing nut holding the rear of the tank in place, the other two are from this weekend. I know they look veryy similar to a couple of photos I took nearly 10 months ago, but honestly, a lot has been done in between
#12
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Lee337 - August 17, 2025, 09:57:59 AMMore news:
A few more hours fettling in the garage and I'm at the point where I think she's ready for a start up.
All the electrics are sorted, most of the bodywork is now on. I replaced the bulb for the temp gauge so that now works & bought a cheap horn from the local motor parts shop. That works too. Oddly, with the ignition on for a couple of minutes the low fuel light is also now working.
In theory all she needs is fuel in the tank and I can give the starter button the thumb.
Looking back on some of my notes, there's a few more jobs I need to do though. While the tank is on the bike, I still need to find 3 bolts, missing in the garage somwewhere. I also have to adjust the oil in the forks. I purposely left this as to adjust it properly, needs the weight of the bike copmpressing them (according to the book). I put the reccomended amount of oil in each fork, but just need to check them for piece of mind.
I also need to check all the coolant hoses & thermostat housing for leaks. I'm a bit concerned about the thermostat housing for 2 reasons.
I think if anything fails, it's going to be the seals in the thermostat housing. I could buy a pressure tester for around £25 which may be an option, at least I'll know before I start her & throw coolant everywhere. Maybe I'll do that.
I also have to fit the fairings with some shiny new Dzus fasteners I've had on the shelf for around 2 years, and free up a seized bolt on the belly pan. I've then got to find a replacement as Triumph no longer sell them. Sure I'll find something though.
Another day closer to finishing my 3 year Daysie project. I'm sure Tabitha Trophy didn't take this long.
P.S. I was right Tabitha took 1 year 5 months.
A few more hours fettling in the garage and I'm at the point where I think she's ready for a start up.
All the electrics are sorted, most of the bodywork is now on. I replaced the bulb for the temp gauge so that now works & bought a cheap horn from the local motor parts shop. That works too. Oddly, with the ignition on for a couple of minutes the low fuel light is also now working.
In theory all she needs is fuel in the tank and I can give the starter button the thumb.
Looking back on some of my notes, there's a few more jobs I need to do though. While the tank is on the bike, I still need to find 3 bolts, missing in the garage somwewhere. I also have to adjust the oil in the forks. I purposely left this as to adjust it properly, needs the weight of the bike copmpressing them (according to the book). I put the reccomended amount of oil in each fork, but just need to check them for piece of mind.
I also need to check all the coolant hoses & thermostat housing for leaks. I'm a bit concerned about the thermostat housing for 2 reasons.
- while I checked the thermostat and gave it a good clean, I'm not convinced it was working correctly.
- when I put everythign back together, including fitting the temp sensor, I couldn't source any seals, so cleaned up the ones I had as best I could and reused them.
I think if anything fails, it's going to be the seals in the thermostat housing. I could buy a pressure tester for around £25 which may be an option, at least I'll know before I start her & throw coolant everywhere. Maybe I'll do that.
I also have to fit the fairings with some shiny new Dzus fasteners I've had on the shelf for around 2 years, and free up a seized bolt on the belly pan. I've then got to find a replacement as Triumph no longer sell them. Sure I'll find something though.
Another day closer to finishing my 3 year Daysie project. I'm sure Tabitha Trophy didn't take this long.
P.S. I was right Tabitha took 1 year 5 months.
#13
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Lee337 - August 16, 2025, 10:30:33 AMI've been doing some research, asking a few contacts (no not the electrical contacts 
) advice on my current issues and think I've resolved my wiring problems.
Just to update you where I am. Everything works as it should except the headlights. There's even power going to the horn, so it's a duff horn, which I'll replace probably later today.
But the headlights? Both work on dipped beam (still) but only the right as you sit on the bike works on full beam. I've traced the wire from the headlight socket back to the relay & have continuity, so there's no break in the wire. I also stripped back some of the loom tape from the front of the loom as while trying to get the headlights working, I broke one of the earth wires to the right indicator too close to where it disappears into the loom (new loom tape is ordered & on it's way).
With everything seeming to be OK, I returned to the relays. There are 7 of them.
I checked each one after labling them with my multi-meter and confirmed they all worked, but one of my contacts (no not the electrical kind) as well as myself, was convinced that the relays was the issue.
A little research showed there are 4 different types of relay 4 pin type A, 5 pin type A, 4 pin type B and 5 pin type B. There are other types, but for my purposes, these are the main 4 types. Most of the Daytona relays are 4 pin type B, with the exception of the Headlamp cut-out, which is 5 pin type B and the headlamp main and dip beam relays. These are 4 pin type A.
The difference being the location of the pins, Type A has the '30' labeled pin on the left as you look at it (with '87' at the top) and type B has the '30' pin at the bottom (see below).
I had a type A in the dip beam socket - so the dip beam worked as it should, but a type B in the main beam socket. So no matter what I did, because the right headlamp is fed power directly, but the left through a relay, the left headlight was never going to work proprely. Even if I swapped the relays over, so there was a type B in the main and Type A in the dip, all what would happen is the main would work in the left, but the dip beam wouldn't, which oddly enough was an issue I had some 8 - 10 months ago.
I hope you're keeping up
I found a second type A relay & thought that would fix the issue, so plugged it in. I now had 2 type A relays in the headlight circuit. still didn't work. A bit of head scratching as I reached to pull the relay again & I noticed it was hot. Pulled the relay & checked it with a multi-metre & it seemed fine. Just to be sure, I plugged it into the dip beam socket (it was in the main beam one) and it immediately began to heat up again.
It seems I've cracked it then.
Both dip & main beam relays should be type A and only one was, the 2nd type A relay I had is faulty. with everything else working as it should, I'm now hopeful that a new type A relay should resolve things.
Time will tell...
UPDATE:
Found a type A relay in the garage still attached to the heated grip loom I removed from my old Tiger. Plugged it in to Daysie & turned the ignition on.
The fuel pump primed, the indicator started ticking away, so I turned it off dash tell tales were on, at least the neutral & iol pressure light was (no EML). Switched the lights on to dip beam and both headlights lit up. Flicked the main beam switch and both mainb beams came on.
Oddly, I didn't hear the fuel pump prime, so I switched out the relay for a spare type B & was rewarded with the noise of the pump. Also switched the ECU relay & the EML lit up too. Think I'll still go out & buy a few spares thoughof both type A and B.
Not much left to do on the electrics now, I need to replace the horn (confirmed power is going to it, so it's a duff horn), the temp gauge light doesn't work, so I'll need to replace that and the fuel warning light doesn't work. this could be either the sender or the bulb. My money's on the sender as it was sitting in stale fuel for 10 years.
Start up day is a little closer.
) advice on my current issues and think I've resolved my wiring problems.Just to update you where I am. Everything works as it should except the headlights. There's even power going to the horn, so it's a duff horn, which I'll replace probably later today.
But the headlights? Both work on dipped beam (still) but only the right as you sit on the bike works on full beam. I've traced the wire from the headlight socket back to the relay & have continuity, so there's no break in the wire. I also stripped back some of the loom tape from the front of the loom as while trying to get the headlights working, I broke one of the earth wires to the right indicator too close to where it disappears into the loom (new loom tape is ordered & on it's way).
With everything seeming to be OK, I returned to the relays. There are 7 of them.
- Indicator unit
- Headlamp dip beam
- Headlamp main beam
- Headlamp cut-out
- cooling fan
- Fuel pump
- ECU main power
I checked each one after labling them with my multi-meter and confirmed they all worked, but one of my contacts (no not the electrical kind) as well as myself, was convinced that the relays was the issue.
A little research showed there are 4 different types of relay 4 pin type A, 5 pin type A, 4 pin type B and 5 pin type B. There are other types, but for my purposes, these are the main 4 types. Most of the Daytona relays are 4 pin type B, with the exception of the Headlamp cut-out, which is 5 pin type B and the headlamp main and dip beam relays. These are 4 pin type A.
The difference being the location of the pins, Type A has the '30' labeled pin on the left as you look at it (with '87' at the top) and type B has the '30' pin at the bottom (see below).
I had a type A in the dip beam socket - so the dip beam worked as it should, but a type B in the main beam socket. So no matter what I did, because the right headlamp is fed power directly, but the left through a relay, the left headlight was never going to work proprely. Even if I swapped the relays over, so there was a type B in the main and Type A in the dip, all what would happen is the main would work in the left, but the dip beam wouldn't, which oddly enough was an issue I had some 8 - 10 months ago.
I hope you're keeping up
I found a second type A relay & thought that would fix the issue, so plugged it in. I now had 2 type A relays in the headlight circuit. still didn't work. A bit of head scratching as I reached to pull the relay again & I noticed it was hot. Pulled the relay & checked it with a multi-metre & it seemed fine. Just to be sure, I plugged it into the dip beam socket (it was in the main beam one) and it immediately began to heat up again.
It seems I've cracked it then.
Both dip & main beam relays should be type A and only one was, the 2nd type A relay I had is faulty. with everything else working as it should, I'm now hopeful that a new type A relay should resolve things.
Time will tell...
UPDATE:
Found a type A relay in the garage still attached to the heated grip loom I removed from my old Tiger. Plugged it in to Daysie & turned the ignition on.
The fuel pump primed, the indicator started ticking away, so I turned it off dash tell tales were on, at least the neutral & iol pressure light was (no EML). Switched the lights on to dip beam and both headlights lit up. Flicked the main beam switch and both mainb beams came on.
Oddly, I didn't hear the fuel pump prime, so I switched out the relay for a spare type B & was rewarded with the noise of the pump. Also switched the ECU relay & the EML lit up too. Think I'll still go out & buy a few spares thoughof both type A and B.
Not much left to do on the electrics now, I need to replace the horn (confirmed power is going to it, so it's a duff horn), the temp gauge light doesn't work, so I'll need to replace that and the fuel warning light doesn't work. this could be either the sender or the bulb. My money's on the sender as it was sitting in stale fuel for 10 years.
Start up day is a little closer.
#14
Engine and Transmission / Re: Cylinder head gasket
Last post by Lee337 - August 15, 2025, 03:58:23 PMThese bikes are getting on a bit and it's unlikely you'll find a NOS gasket, but you could try Sprint Manufacturing or SquaredealsUK.
#15
Engine and Transmission / Cylinder head gasket
Last post by GingerDog - August 15, 2025, 10:32:27 AMHi, I've just got hold of an 885i, it's dog rough and been used as a field bike. It was a non-runner when I got it and I've stripped the engine as the was metal in the sump. I'm in the process of finding gaskets and seal etc. but I cannot for the life of me find a cylinder head gasket in stock. Would anyone know if there is any alternatives such as the carb version or the 955i?
TIA
TIA
#16
Other Triples / Re: Daysie's Diary
Last post by Lee337 - August 12, 2025, 04:13:04 PMMore time in the garage today. Managed to loosen the alternator enough to pull the earth cable out from behind it without having to cut anything. Started to connect everything back up again. Having identified and labled which wires were which from the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, I reconnected the earths first, followied by all the relays, then all the wires going to the rear of the bike. There was around 11v in the battery, enough to test the lights etc, so \I connected it up, turned the ignition and was rewarded by the engine light and neutral light coming on on the dash.
Then I turned the lights on to side lights. The small side light on the front lit up but not the rear light.
Next up, the left indicator (bearing in mind I haven't conected the front ones), left first & a nice steady 'tick tick' as it flashed away. then the right, the left indicator went 'tick tick'. still no number plate light or rear light.
I disconnect the indicators, number plate light & rear/stop light. The rear/stop light is a multi pin plug which should be ok. but as I ooked at the wiring for the indicators & number plate and the carefully written labels I'd attached to them, based on the wire colours, I realised that they didn't match up with the colour wirtes coming out of the indicators.
Forgetting the labels, I connected according to colour, red/white to red/white etc. and not the wiring diagram colours.
Turned the ignition back on, left indicator works on the left, right indicator works on the right. turning the side lights on shows the number plate light works, as does the rear light and squeezing the front brake shows the brake light also works.
Now we're getting somewhere. I cannot explain why the colour of the wires coming out of the loom don't match, I can only assume someone in the distant pastmessed around with the wiring at some point.
So, now to the front. A multimeter shows both front indicators work, at least there's power going to them anyway. The side light works, the starter works, I now have the oil pressure light working, as well as the neutral light, the indicator tell tale and the engine light.
The horn doesn't work. I'll check this later to see if it's the horn or wiring.
I've purposely left the headlights to last. on dipped beam, the right headlight works. Switch to main beam and it works, as does the main beam light on the dash.
The left one though, that's a different story. On dipped beam, it's showing on high beam, on high beam, it's off.
So, I have the horn to sort out and the left headlight & that looks like all there is for the electrics. I'm assuming at this point the charging circuit is working, but I won't know for certain until I fire her up.
It would seem that a lot of my issues was down to that earth I forgot to connect & pinched behind the alternator.
Daysie I not alive yet, but I think I can say she's out of the woods & on her way to recovery.
Then I turned the lights on to side lights. The small side light on the front lit up but not the rear light.
Next up, the left indicator (bearing in mind I haven't conected the front ones), left first & a nice steady 'tick tick' as it flashed away. then the right, the left indicator went 'tick tick'. still no number plate light or rear light.
I disconnect the indicators, number plate light & rear/stop light. The rear/stop light is a multi pin plug which should be ok. but as I ooked at the wiring for the indicators & number plate and the carefully written labels I'd attached to them, based on the wire colours, I realised that they didn't match up with the colour wirtes coming out of the indicators.
Forgetting the labels, I connected according to colour, red/white to red/white etc. and not the wiring diagram colours.
Turned the ignition back on, left indicator works on the left, right indicator works on the right. turning the side lights on shows the number plate light works, as does the rear light and squeezing the front brake shows the brake light also works.
Now we're getting somewhere. I cannot explain why the colour of the wires coming out of the loom don't match, I can only assume someone in the distant pastmessed around with the wiring at some point.
So, now to the front. A multimeter shows both front indicators work, at least there's power going to them anyway. The side light works, the starter works, I now have the oil pressure light working, as well as the neutral light, the indicator tell tale and the engine light.
The horn doesn't work. I'll check this later to see if it's the horn or wiring.
I've purposely left the headlights to last. on dipped beam, the right headlight works. Switch to main beam and it works, as does the main beam light on the dash.
The left one though, that's a different story. On dipped beam, it's showing on high beam, on high beam, it's off.
So, I have the horn to sort out and the left headlight & that looks like all there is for the electrics. I'm assuming at this point the charging circuit is working, but I won't know for certain until I fire her up.
It would seem that a lot of my issues was down to that earth I forgot to connect & pinched behind the alternator.
Daysie I not alive yet, but I think I can say she's out of the woods & on her way to recovery.
#17
Other Triples / Daysie returns
Last post by Lee337 - August 10, 2025, 03:41:50 PMIt's been almost a year since my last confession... 
Sorry, wrong forum 
Daysie saw the light of day today, not that she's going anywhere, but I think she's been sitting untouched for too long & while I'd rather be out riding somewhere, I want to get Daysie finished while I'm still breathing.
A quick reminder, she has electrical gremlins with a sense of humpur. Every time I resolve one electrical issue, another one pops up. I won't bore you with the list.
I'm convinced there's a bad earth somewhere - I've checked all the ones I can find & all seem to be making good contact. I've had the relays out, checked, replaced some & put them back in again. Every time I think I've cracked it I'm proved wrong.
I've been kind of lead down the garden path, convinced it was something to do with the main beam circuit as whenever I remove the fuse, things work. Not properly as there's always something else.
So yesterday I went out & bought some masking tape to write on & this morning I began the painstaking task of disconnecting & labling every bit of wire I could find. Starting with the back,. brake lights, number plate light & indicators and working my way forward. I labeled & reloved the relays (again), the ECU, fuse board, then set about disconnecting and labeling the front, lights, horn, indisctors etc. until all that was left unlabeled & still connected was the alternator, rear brake light switch, starter solenoid & fuel injectors.
And that's where I think I may have found the problem.
I found an earth cable trapped between the alternator and engine casing. I could wiggle it, I could see the ring connector when I shined a light to the side of the alternator casing, confirming it's not attached to anything.
Equally, it's not coming out as the cable is pinched, can't pull it. the easy option would be to just cut the cable & attach another ring connector, but then I don't know whether it'll be long enough to connect to anything. Besides, I think it should have attached to the bolt holding the alternator in place. (I'll take a look at my old photos later to try to confirm this.
To do the job properly, I need to remove the alternator, 3 bolts, except one of those bolts is tucked neatly behind one of the coolant hoses, meaning I have to drain the coolant before removing the offending hose, to gain access to the alternator, to free the earth cable, to reattach it to one of the alternator bolts.
This is a job for anotehr day though, as I've already spent 4 hours in the garage and Tabitha Trophy is calling.
I would have taken Talyn J, but the smart little box that cuts power to the sat nav, dash cam & spot lights, didn't switch off. Talyn J is currently having her battery recharged.
Tabitha it is then
Sorry, wrong forum Daysie saw the light of day today, not that she's going anywhere, but I think she's been sitting untouched for too long & while I'd rather be out riding somewhere, I want to get Daysie finished while I'm still breathing.
A quick reminder, she has electrical gremlins with a sense of humpur. Every time I resolve one electrical issue, another one pops up. I won't bore you with the list.
I'm convinced there's a bad earth somewhere - I've checked all the ones I can find & all seem to be making good contact. I've had the relays out, checked, replaced some & put them back in again. Every time I think I've cracked it I'm proved wrong.
I've been kind of lead down the garden path, convinced it was something to do with the main beam circuit as whenever I remove the fuse, things work. Not properly as there's always something else.
So yesterday I went out & bought some masking tape to write on & this morning I began the painstaking task of disconnecting & labling every bit of wire I could find. Starting with the back,. brake lights, number plate light & indicators and working my way forward. I labeled & reloved the relays (again), the ECU, fuse board, then set about disconnecting and labeling the front, lights, horn, indisctors etc. until all that was left unlabeled & still connected was the alternator, rear brake light switch, starter solenoid & fuel injectors.
And that's where I think I may have found the problem.
I found an earth cable trapped between the alternator and engine casing. I could wiggle it, I could see the ring connector when I shined a light to the side of the alternator casing, confirming it's not attached to anything.
Equally, it's not coming out as the cable is pinched, can't pull it. the easy option would be to just cut the cable & attach another ring connector, but then I don't know whether it'll be long enough to connect to anything. Besides, I think it should have attached to the bolt holding the alternator in place. (I'll take a look at my old photos later to try to confirm this.
To do the job properly, I need to remove the alternator, 3 bolts, except one of those bolts is tucked neatly behind one of the coolant hoses, meaning I have to drain the coolant before removing the offending hose, to gain access to the alternator, to free the earth cable, to reattach it to one of the alternator bolts.
This is a job for anotehr day though, as I've already spent 4 hours in the garage and Tabitha Trophy is calling.
I would have taken Talyn J, but the smart little box that cuts power to the sat nav, dash cam & spot lights, didn't switch off. Talyn J is currently having her battery recharged.
Tabitha it is then
#18
Speaking Of Bikes... / Re: Comfort seats
Last post by 93TigerBill-2016 - August 10, 2025, 12:36:58 AMLee, I feel your pain.....
Had only a sheepskin on the Steamer for most of my L-D riding, and (two) Kawasaki Versys 650's. When I switched up to an 800XC, I needed a bit more: I swapped to an "Airhawk", not only used for 'bikes, but for others who are forced to sit for extended periods of time (wheelchairs etc.).
The 'trick' is to only have the minimum amount of air, just enough to not 'touch' the seat - and the Airhawk is blown up by mouth pressure only, the less the better.
There are other similar items now available, but the Airhawks seem to last well.
Had only a sheepskin on the Steamer for most of my L-D riding, and (two) Kawasaki Versys 650's. When I switched up to an 800XC, I needed a bit more: I swapped to an "Airhawk", not only used for 'bikes, but for others who are forced to sit for extended periods of time (wheelchairs etc.).
The 'trick' is to only have the minimum amount of air, just enough to not 'touch' the seat - and the Airhawk is blown up by mouth pressure only, the less the better.
There are other similar items now available, but the Airhawks seem to last well.
#19
Speaking Of Bikes... / Comfort seats
Last post by Lee337 - August 09, 2025, 02:52:58 PMSome of you may have read about my bony a$$ and how uncomfortable it's getting riding recently.
It's not because I'm losing weight, far from it - let's call it a 'redistribution' Anyway, having taken the XC out for a long(ish) ride a couple of weeks ago and what wasn't aching, was numb
I already have a sheepskin cover on the seat which has worked well in the past, but I've obviously moved or adjusted something & 150 miles & I'm walking like John Wayne. (for those of you who don't know who John Wayne is, ask your parents!).
I took the sheepskin off, still uncomfortable, adjusted the seat, first dropped it to its lowest level, then up at the front, then up at the rear & down at the front, still had numb nadgers after around an hour in the saddle.
Proper Triumph comfort seats are rarer than hens teeth, so I decided to go down the comfort seat pad route.
I set off with Talyn J's seat in its highest position & headed for teh bike shop around 20 miles away. Now this may be important - I was wearing some bamboo boxers, nice & airy (it's a warm day) and I find them quite comfortable on the bike, together with a pair of armoured cargo trousers, rather than my Alpinestars trousers.
During my 20 mile ride, a little uncomfortable but no numbness anywhere but the fingers of my left hand. I doubt my seating position was the culpret, more keeping the revs up & having fun in the twisties.
Anyway I digress. I forked out £63 of my hard earned dosh for an Oxford air seat with air pump included. I'd read the reviews which were pretty good. I'd read one that says pump it up about 80%, others saying only put a little in or you feel dsconnected from the bike.
I didn't fit it straight away, but headed home for coffee & cake, well coffee and a biscuit anyway, fitted the comfort seat which was a doddle having filled it with air to around 80%.
Within around half a mile I stopped & let some air out. It was like trying to balance on a Space Hopper (perents will know
), got around 2 miles & stopped again. Let some more air out.
Within the space of a 20 mile ride, I'd stopped & adjusted the air either up or down 5 times & I'm still not convinced I've got it right and was more uncomfortable than the 40 mile round trip to the bike shop.
Yet almost all of the on-line reviews (all 9 of them) say it's very comfortable once you've played with the air pressure.
So, I'll give it another try when I go out next to see if I can crack this comfort thing. Otherwise it's back to bamboo boxers & sheepskin.
It's not because I'm losing weight, far from it - let's call it a 'redistribution' Anyway, having taken the XC out for a long(ish) ride a couple of weeks ago and what wasn't aching, was numb
I already have a sheepskin cover on the seat which has worked well in the past, but I've obviously moved or adjusted something & 150 miles & I'm walking like John Wayne. (for those of you who don't know who John Wayne is, ask your parents!).
I took the sheepskin off, still uncomfortable, adjusted the seat, first dropped it to its lowest level, then up at the front, then up at the rear & down at the front, still had numb nadgers after around an hour in the saddle.
Proper Triumph comfort seats are rarer than hens teeth, so I decided to go down the comfort seat pad route.
I set off with Talyn J's seat in its highest position & headed for teh bike shop around 20 miles away. Now this may be important - I was wearing some bamboo boxers, nice & airy (it's a warm day) and I find them quite comfortable on the bike, together with a pair of armoured cargo trousers, rather than my Alpinestars trousers.
During my 20 mile ride, a little uncomfortable but no numbness anywhere but the fingers of my left hand. I doubt my seating position was the culpret, more keeping the revs up & having fun in the twisties.
Anyway I digress. I forked out £63 of my hard earned dosh for an Oxford air seat with air pump included. I'd read the reviews which were pretty good. I'd read one that says pump it up about 80%, others saying only put a little in or you feel dsconnected from the bike.
I didn't fit it straight away, but headed home for coffee & cake, well coffee and a biscuit anyway, fitted the comfort seat which was a doddle having filled it with air to around 80%.
Within around half a mile I stopped & let some air out. It was like trying to balance on a Space Hopper (perents will know
), got around 2 miles & stopped again. Let some more air out.Within the space of a 20 mile ride, I'd stopped & adjusted the air either up or down 5 times & I'm still not convinced I've got it right and was more uncomfortable than the 40 mile round trip to the bike shop.
Yet almost all of the on-line reviews (all 9 of them) say it's very comfortable once you've played with the air pressure.
So, I'll give it another try when I go out next to see if I can crack this comfort thing. Otherwise it's back to bamboo boxers & sheepskin.
#20
Tiger 900 and Tiger 850 (2020 - Now Tigers) / Re: Tiger Considerations
Last post by Aeschere - August 07, 2025, 07:33:00 PMNice to read the stories, thanks for sharing! The more I am looking into to Rally Pro, the more I start to fancy them. It seems to be quite a complete package and doesn't require a lot of upgrades to "finish" it. Even though the T120 is still a lovely bike, it might be something for the (distant) future as a complimentary bike.
The power of the 900 is enough, the lower torque might be something to keep in mind, and the vibrations complaints only seem to come from people who are riding a 800 triple version. Luggage options will be expensive no matter the bike but some bikes on the second hand market come with cases (although I would prefer soft panniers).
I am looking at some reviews of both the older and the newer versions, but the upgrades are starting to feel less important. The extra HP might be nice but 93.9 HP should be plenty and a top speed of 230 km/h is something I will never reach (the legal limit is 130 km/h here during the evening, 100 km/h during the day). It also saves quite a bit in the price. With some looking around and a good deal on the steamer trade in, a 2000-2023 Rally Pro with sub 10k kilometers can be purchased for around €10.000
The power of the 900 is enough, the lower torque might be something to keep in mind, and the vibrations complaints only seem to come from people who are riding a 800 triple version. Luggage options will be expensive no matter the bike but some bikes on the second hand market come with cases (although I would prefer soft panniers).
I am looking at some reviews of both the older and the newer versions, but the upgrades are starting to feel less important. The extra HP might be nice but 93.9 HP should be plenty and a top speed of 230 km/h is something I will never reach (the legal limit is 130 km/h here during the evening, 100 km/h during the day). It also saves quite a bit in the price. With some looking around and a good deal on the steamer trade in, a 2000-2023 Rally Pro with sub 10k kilometers can be purchased for around €10.000
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