'93 Steamer running really badly, now won't start. Please help!

[AlienFing]

I recently got my '93 steamer so don't know very much about it!

Problem now, it's been running fine, used every few days and doing between 10 and 50 miles at a time. I arrived early to get my seals done so parked up and after 15 to 20 minutes I noticed fuel coming from the air box (fuel tap was still on) so I started her up to ride the half mile to the mechanics. All the way it sounded like it was only running on 2 cylinders and running really rough, he heard me turn up and asked what was wrong, me being a bit useless when it comes to mechanics told him I didn't have a clue. He sorted the fork seals and when I started her up she sounded fine again. My mechanic did point out that he thought the reg/rec might be on it's way out as the lights were flickering and brighter with higher revs. I parked her out on the road and went back to get all my gear on etc. 10 minutes later went to set off, started her up and sounding really rough again, got me home the 17 miles but really lumpy at low revs. Pulled up at my house and she just cut out and wouldn't start again. Tried about 10 minutes later and still nothing and then battery started getting weak. I've pulled the battery to give it a charge on my battery management type charger.

If anyone is still reading  are there any common problems that I could check myself or replace anything etc. I really am feeling a bit disheartened as well as useless that I haven't got a clue! Bike is pretty much original as far as I know, with 57000 miles on her.

Thanks for any help or pointers.

[John Stenhouse]

The real gurus will show up soon but a couple of things to note, good to pull the battery and get it charged Steamers can break the sprag clutch on the starter if you try and start them with a weak battery and it sounds from the description as iof one of the float needle valves is stuck and its allowing the carb to flood the engine.

Solution is to take the carbs off and clean them out and get the float heights and needle valve working. This is the bugbear of all steamers if it's broke look at the carbs first.

[AlienFing]

Ok thanks John. I was told that the sprag clutch has recently been upgraded, but due to other things being said I can't be 100% sure!

[nickjtc]

Re: fork seal(s). Two comments.

If the 'mechanic' replaced a seal and it is leaking again after only a short while then there is a possibility that the fork stanchion has a nick or burr in it which tore into the new seal. If the second guy did not deal with this then you could have the same issue happening again.

For future reference, if you get leakage from your seals (with no other issues) try this first:

http://www.tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/topic,14028.0.html  reply number 35.

I make it #34.....  Bixxer

[threepot]

You'll really 'bond' with the bike working on the carbs and airbox :icon_wink: While their off,check the condition of the manifold rubbers,and airfilter. If you remove sprocket casing,fit new gskt,and gearshaft seal,and check clutch pushrod seal.Plenty of info under search,or ask

[P3aK]

Even if the sprag clutch had been upgraded it can still break if cranked with a low battery. They basically changed the size of the gears so you get a new ratio, but what's breaking is a tiny spring that's inside the assembly of bits.

Stupidest thing I've ever seen. Mine went 2nd day after I bought my Tiger. Talk about having to learn to hit the ground running.

Carbs if definitely the first thing I'd check too. Second is leaks in/around the airbox, third is to make sure your cables are properly connected to your sparkplugs. Press them down and feel a slight "click" that they bite the top of the plugs (mine has deceived me more then once that they have contact, when they don't. It's a difference of 1mm if working or not for me).

Gas, air, spark = what makes the thing run. Alway the 3 first things to check.

Haha, yeah start 'the bonding' with your Tiger, you need to know your pet to make it play nice. 

[Sin_Tiger]

On the electrical side.

Do you know the age of the battery?

If you can, disconnect the +ve and put an amp meter in series between the battery and the lead. There should be less than 0.1A for the clock. If it's anymore than that, pull the main 30A fuse and see if that drops the discharge.

Green we'll take it from there.

[AlienFing]

Found the running issue. Carb number 1 has had a fire in it at some point and melted away the slide and damaged slide runner/guide.

No idea when or why this has happened but I guess I'll now have to sell my soul to afford some new carbs :-(

[Sin_Tiger]

You need to establish the cause of the damage first, it would be a shame to fit a good cab set fir it to happen again.

For this to occur it would need a persistent hot gas flow rather than just one back fire.

Since you have the tank off I'd suggest checking the valves and clearances.

[AlienFing]

Valves and clearances being done in next week or so, as soon as I get paid. Hopefully won't need too many shims, could get quite expensive!

[aeronca]

brother aliefing, if you still have the original coils in it, throw them away and order yourself up a set of Nology coils. the Gills and Lucas are crap. I rebuilt my carbs twice before I realized it was the coils failing under power, they even checked good on the bench but were bad on the bike. it will make it feel like it's running on two cylenders. as far as fuel spilling out the air box, check your float height. these are great bikes and will teach you lots about maintenance, but once sorted, they are pretty bullet proof. I just rolled over 80,000 on my 95'  and ride it every day to work 100 miles round trip. good luck brother

[AlienFing]

Thanks for all the help so far.

I've sourced another set of carbs so can rebuild to make a good set. Front half of air box I purchased was wrong one and noticed that mine has got damage throughout so will have to replace it :-(