Help. High tickover.

[Bixxer Bob]

I can't remember using the IACV  test in TECU as I use Tuneboy, but I'm pretty sure MG uses it.  So if your IACVdoesn't respond, perhaps you already have the answer.  Why not PM MG  and ask him?

[metalguru]

On the right track there with the IACV.
First have full confidence there are no airleaks or after doing this it will run like poo. IACV pipes, (6mm silicon vac pipe)
Open TECU on the test page.
In Tests and Adjustments, double click on Idle Speed Control, it will now run through a few cycles up and down the bore of the IACV. Repeat test about 3 times or as many as you like.
BTW headlamps off, main switch on, kill switch on, battery on optimate or equivilent, pc on mains. (It matters).
Reset TPS.
Start engine and get to operating temp, if idle is still high, then double click on adjust IACV. As an average this is a minus number usually between -8 to -20 depends on engine preferences. This needs to be set so when the throttle is 'blipped' the revs will drop not severely but smoothly to idle. If the revs drop sharply to below idle and creap up then raise value of IACV. If revs drop slowly and hover about 1500 then lower value to a greater minus value.
Allow about 45 mins to complete, it sounds complicated but its not really.
Failing that pop round for a cuppa.
There is more but that will do for now.

[blacktiger]

On the right track there with the IACV.
First have full confidence there are no airleaks or after doing this it will run like poo. IACV pipes, (6mm silicon vac pipe)
Open TECU on the test page.
In Tests and Adjustments, double click on Idle Speed Control, it will now run through a few cycles up and down the bore of the IACV. Repeat test about 3 times or as many as you like.
BTW headlamps off, main switch on, kill switch on, battery on optimate or equivilent, pc on mains. (It matters).
Reset TPS.
Start engine and get to operating temp, if idle is still high, then double click on adjust IACV. As an average this is a minus number usually between -8 to -20 depends on engine preferences. This needs to be set so when the throttle is 'blipped' the revs will drop not severely but smoothly to idle. If the revs drop sharply to below idle and creap up then raise value of IACV. If revs drop slowly and hover about 1500 then lower value to a greater minus value.
Allow about 45 mins to complete, it sounds complicated but its not really.
Failing that pop round for a cuppa.
There is more but that will do for now.

Cheers Nigel. I did some of that already like the TPS reset and IACV test but I didn't know what numbers are right or wrong. I'll give it a go when the temps rise a bit.

[blacktiger]

Well when I striped it down again today, I found that the throttles weren't closing fully. Although I got/get a snap when I let go of the twist grip I could push them a little further and hey presto the tickover went to the 1100 it should be at.
So I did a big clean up inside the inlets (there was black deposits in there) I also loosened the butterflies on the cross bar and centralized them. Sprayed Teflon lube down the throttle cable and all the pivots across the bodies. The snap back got better and once the bodies were balanced it all seems OK now.
So I guess the upshot of all this is lack of maintenance, cleaning and lubrication over its 10 years of life.

In addition, Nigel, I did connect up the Tuneecu cable but couldn't get a connection????? Can't understand as it connected before OK. Could it be to do with the tank still being off?

[Bixxer Bob]

H, did you oil the cable in the past? I ask really for the benefit of others as I don't think you would. It doesn't need it because the cable is PTFE lined and could cause it to stick - not completely, but slowing it down, just like you described.

[blacktiger]

H, did you oil the cable in the past? I ask really for the benefit of others as I don't think you would. It doesn't need it because the cable is PTFE lined and could cause it to stick - not completely, but slowing it down, just like you described.

No I hadn't. There's a design fault really because the end of the cable is pointing vertical with the open end open to dirt falling into it. I squirted Teflon lube down there and it did free up the movement of the cable quite a bitwhich, as I said, improved the snap back.

So it's sitting at idle for a 12 minute adaption reset as I type this. Ticking over nicely at 1100rpm.

[metalguru]

For the benefit of others, it is unwise to use oil on PTFE lined cables as the oil will create too much friction and deteriorate the PTFE lining. The Teflon spray however will help as BT found out. The difference when the cables are lubed with this stuff is very noticeable. I use a very cheap clamp on type of lubricator that all bike shops sell or on line and use the spray with this untill the cable is flushed out.

The Black deposits as far as I can work out are reflected hydrocarbons from the top of the inlet valve which over time will congeal in the bodies preventingfull closure and do need to be cleaned at service time. Can be even worse when air filters don't work as well as they should.

BT. TECU should connect up weather the tank is on or off. Make sure the main switch is on, headlamps off, charger connected and laptop on mains.
It may be a corrupt program as there were some bugs in the older ones, try downloading the updated program from TECU site and reload it, don't forget to save your tunes first although they shouldn't be affected.

[blacktiger]

BT. TECU should connect up weather the tank is on or off. Make sure the main switch is on, headlamps off, charger connected and laptop on mains.
It may be a corrupt program as there were some bugs in the older ones, try downloading the updated program from TECU site and reload it, don't forget to save your tunes first although they shouldn't be affected.

I'm sure it was 2.4.2.0 version. Although I could have mistakenly clicked 2.2. Anyway, it's all back together now and seems to work as it should. Unfortuntely I can't get out for a test ride because the kitchen is being rebuilt and the front of the garage is full of that stuff.

[Bixxer Bob]

The Black deposits as far as I can work out are reflected hydrocarbons from the top of the inlet valve which over time will congeal in the bodies preventing full closure and do need to be cleaned at service time. Can be even worse when air filters don't work as well as they should.

Another of the1001 uses for spray on brake cleaner.......

[blacktiger]

Finally managed to get out for a ride this morning to test the bike. At first it seemed to misbehaving still but after an hour or so the tickover was settling at normal rpms. Still takes a couple of seconds to drop to 1100rpm but it does go there whereas before it didn't at all.
Now, this might sound daft having owned the 955 for 10 years, but........as I do most of my riding on the 800 these days, I can't remember how quickly the 955 should settle down to tickover. Is it normal to take a couple of seconds?

[Bixxer Bob]

Who can say what's normal where Tiggers are concerned 

Mine doesn't though, it's drops normally.

[metalguru]

Sounds like you are very close, if the engine braking is not as sharp as you like and the revs are taking a time to drop (a couple of seconds is very close) then the IACV value can be changed to make this better.
If for example your IACV value is -8, then try dropping to -10 to -12 which will bring the revs down quicker.
If they drop too quick and below 1100 (BTW it should be 1200) and then creep up to idle then the value should be for example -9.

The higher the minus number (-12) the quicker it will drop the revs, the lower the number (-5) the slower the revs will drop with the 'blip' test.

Adjust the idle fuel trim (IFT) to give a smoother not smelly exhaust. A gas tester is required but with caution a sniff will tell you if it is rich, must stress only a sniff.

If you can the next time you connect up, make a note of the IACV number, the IFT and the LTFT.

[blacktiger]

Sounds like you are very close, if the engine braking is not as sharp as you like and the revs are taking a time to drop (a couple of seconds is very close) then the IACV value can be changed to make this better.
If for example your IACV value is -8, then try dropping to -10 to -12 which will bring the revs down quicker.
If they drop too quick and below 1100 (BTW it should be 1200) and then creep up to idle then the value should be for example -9.

The higher the minus number (-12) the quicker it will drop the revs, the lower the number (-5) the slower the revs will drop with the 'blip' test.

Adjust the idle fuel trim (IFT) to give a smoother not smelly exhaust. A gas tester is required but with caution a sniff will tell you if it is rich, must stress only a sniff.

If you can the next time you connect up, make a note of the IACV number, the IFT and the LTFT.

Cheers Nigel. I might get a chance to connect up on Thursday...................if it actually connects this time.

Even with this slight problem, it's still a lovely engine. Really enjoyed getting out this morning. Pulls better as well now that the throttles are balanced again. Roads were quite shitty so couldn't really let it loose. Roll on summer.

[blacktiger]

Had a fiddle today. TuneEcu connected up OK this time. Couldn't do much except I set the IACV value to -12 from -8 just in case. I did discover that just touching the throttle cable under the tank altered the tickover/raised the revs quite a bit.  All this could well be a simple matter of the throttle cable pissing about. Thinking I'll get a new one anyway as this original is still a bit stiff.

[iansoady]

I did discover that just touching the throttle cable under the tank altered the tickover/raised the revs quite a bit.

That sounds as though there's no slack in the cable - I like about 2-3 mm in mine.