Fluctuating rev needle..

[ned37]

Worth a bottle of Star Tron or some Sea Foam, as it won't hurt anything.

i wonder what percentage of those companies' income is based on that?

[threepot]

Mmm,I'm running out of options/patience!! Still got that very slight 'miss'! I've tried new plugs,coils,ECU from my Daytona,and the 'little f@#$er'..crank pick up! Put the crank pick up on,and the bike ran faultlessly. But that 'miss' has come back,but not so often?? It runs great,but notice it now and again,more so under load,which points to a bad coil?? I'm thinking of a bad ign switch,sidestand switch,oil pressure switch?? Yes,the rev needle drops when it happens,which points to electronic?

[JayDub]

  I would say its unlikely to be ign/sidestand/oil pressure switches but it does sound like something failing under load.  Did you also change the plug leads with the coils? they could be breaking up internally... like mine did.

[threepot]

Hi JD,I'm sure I had the symptoms with the stick coils?

[JayDub]

Due to the Tacho needle, and what you've already done then this is looking to be most likely a low voltage primary circuit issue then Mark, Igniter, Pick-up coil or associated wiring/connectors - the manual also indicates that the igniter sub-harness is a major component - did you also try that? (the short wiring loom from the igniter to the main loom) The igniter is pre programmed with data for each model i.e. dwell angle and timing - do you want to borrow my spare? - PM me your address.

[Bixxer Bob]

I agree.  the tacho is a major clue.  If the tacho is driven by the igniter then it's either an igniter fault or the crank sensor.

If the crank sensor glitches the igniter doesn't know the crank is turning so doesn't make sparks and zeros the tacho.

If the igniter is u/s the only way to know is change it.  Coils and carbs won't affect the tacho. The sub loom is a maybe / maybe not. without the diagram it's hard to know.

[threepot]

Thanks for your replies guy's. Re the ECU,the bike seems to run exactly the same with the Super3's in? And the symptoms are the same! Even after swapping the pick-up. So,maybe a fault in the wiring from those components,? To be honest,it's more of an annoyance,something I could live with,as it doesn't detract from the bikes overall performance,which 99.9% of the timeis excellent. I'm just a little concerned it could get worse?
A while back,I phoned Gill,and was told most ECU problems are to do with the connecting block? So maybe start there? What to check though?

[Sin_Tiger]

  so many faults I've seen and still do are wiring and connector related. A poor connection can drop a trigger  voltage level below the switching level of a transistor easily, that's why most systems have gone digital, the down side is that those systems totally don't work when they fail and you're left at a bus stop    Analogue sensors still have their place, so they'll be around for a long while yet.

It's a hard one to find as they're usually not obvious, just a case of patience and working through them methodically.

I know I probably sound like a stick record on this subject but if you're not using dielectric grease when you do sort it, you might as well buy something red, Italian and only ride in the rain 

[Nick Calne]

How old / what condition is your battery in Mark? I am no expert in this sort of thing but quite often I have found a poor battery to be the source of gremlins you'd have thought were unrelated. Might just be a thing to check?

[JayDub]

...without the diagram it's hard to know.

Hope this link works, its for a Trophy but it says its basically the same:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9wfvizbmvw124qd/Screenshot%202016-09-19%2021.47.40.png?dl=0

[threepot]

How old / what condition is your battery in Mark? I am no expert in this sort of thing but quite often I have found a poor battery to be the source of gremlins you'd have thought were unrelated. Might just be a thing to check?

Battery is quite new Nick,and was fully charged last outing.


Think I'll buy a 'new' crank sensor. What do you think?

[Bixxer Bob]

Hope this link works, its for a Trophy but it says its basically the same:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9wfvizbmvw124qd/Screenshot%202016-09-19%2021.47.40.png?dl=0

Reading that I'd be looking at the contacts in the ign switch first. Any interruption there wll affect both the coils and the tacho.  I'd start with the voltage feed wire into the switch and then go from there. 

Cheaper than replacing the crank sensor if it works.....

[threepot]

Any tips on how to check switch ,and feed in Bob? Would it be worth just removing connecting block,and cleaning connections?

[Bixxer Bob]

Funnily enough I've just done a lock on a Superdream.  All I did was squirt contact cleaner into it then vigourously work the lock a few dozen times.  It worked for me.

I'd be looking at the back of the lock for iffy soldered connections and corrosion too.  And look at Fuse 5 contacts, the fusebox to loom connector and the ign lock connector block.

[threepot]

Bob ,took front fairing off to give me easier access to switch,then disconnected connection block. Some of the pins had some corrosion? So I cleaned them up a bit with some sandpaper, blasted them with electrical contact cleaner,wd40,re-connected then worked some acf50 grease into all the external holes to seal it. Apparently acf50(corrosive block grease) is dialectic(ST's suggestion). So I did all the blocks/connections that were visable. I also sprayed switch inside and out. Well,took bike for a good run today,and it ran fine. So hopefully that bit of corrosion in the block was creating a little resistance,like you and JD mentioned?? So thanks for the suggestions guy's