Question time

[kenny junior]

So having owned my Steamer for a whole month now and done some jobs on her, mainly all new fluids (including some brake fluid that was fitted from factory i feel) but the list of jobs still to do seems to be growing.

I come to the masses for advice on 3 points if you would be so kind.

1. I have a serious case of handlebar wobble at almost any speed if i let go, generally the bike pulls slightly right anyway. I am on a set of contitrail attacks which have only done 3k but have been having this issue since i bought the bike so doubt it is them, however, i checked wheel alignment yesterday and found it to be off with the real wheel running to the right. Downside is i don't have, nor can i seem to find in a local shop, any 12mm allen keys to make adjustments. I guess the angle explains the pulling but do you think this could be causing the handlebar wobble?

2. It is spluttering in any gear under 3k revs even when warm, from reading on here it appears to be the ignition coil system, Can i buy one and switch it in till it works or do i have to bite the bullet and buy the lot?

3. Has anyone painted the tank with success cos mine looks like it is constantly sat in a shower there is that much bubbling?

Thanks

[threepot]

Probably is tyre? Mine needs replacing..and I have the 'wobble'!
You could buy 1 coil and swap? Or ..I have just bought 3 New from Sprint on eBay. They are Lucas,made in India Some on here will scoff?    But they were only £30 EA. Spoke to Sprint ,and they have sold a lot without any problems? Worth a shot at that price? I fitted them last week,and the bike definitely runs stronger,more noticeably higher up in the revs. A while back I fitted Denso stick coils. No issues really,except I felt I'd lost some top speed? Well,the bike seems to have regained it with these coils?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Ignition-Coil-Triumph-Trophy-900-Tiger-900-Carburettor-Model-/301724642775?hash=item464030add7:g:pFcAAOSwG-1WvJgz

[JayDub]

Most of the time the cause of the wobble is at the opposite end, I would say the wheel alignment is most likely the culprit, also check the wheel bearings, and the steering head bearings for play or notchiness.
12mm allens are widely available either as a socket bit or a lever type, and if you can't get one in a local motorfactors they are easy to locate on ebay, order yourself a T55 Torx bit too as you'll need it at some point, get a decent make though as it will twist or even shear otherwise.
As for the Allen tool - At 12mm the quality isn't too critical if its just for chain maintenance:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CK-T4411-12-12mm-HEXAGON-ALLEN-TYPE-HEX-KEY-/401019352088?hash=item5d5e9db418:m:m2DqdsNLm9ovNgAZsoJOHcA

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3mm-to-12mm-ALL-SIZES-HEX-KEY-ALLEN-BIT-3-8-Drive-Socket-Top-Quality-Guaranteed-/160779452602?var=&hash=item256f33c0ba:m:mqMsxnVRcV0LocO0uwLmW-w

Is the fuel/air/exhaust system all standard? - steamers don't usually like being messed about with.

As its a Nylon tank I think its a specialist job (someone will correct me if I'm wrong  )so it may be that the cost of a repaint would be prohibitive... see if you can get a decent second-hand tank?

[Sin_Tiger]

Before you do anything that's going to cost you money, take the front calipers off one at a time. Push the pistons out another 5mm (leave the pads in place if you're worried about popping them) give the pistons a good scrub, a light smear of red rubber grease and then push them all the way in (careful not to overflow the master cylinder) before pushing them back to normal.

You shouldn't have less than 2.3 bar in the front and 2.5 bar in the rear tyres.

Try adding a bit more preload one turn at a time.

[kenny junior]

I will give those lucas coils a try then unless anyone knows of any scare stories about them.

Completely standard fuel air and exhaust system. It is popping on overrun higher up which further suggests coils doesn't it?

I replaced the pads for new sintered ones at the same time as changing the fluid so the pistons were pushed right back then and seemed to move ok but I didn't use rubber grease so will try that and wheel alignment before I shell out for a new set of boots.

May go down the route of a leather tank cover if painting isn't really a feasible option

Thanks

[Sin_Tiger]

Popping on the overrun is most often an air leak on the intake side.

[JayDub]

Popping on the overrun is most often an air leak on the intake side.

... or a leak or hole in the exhaust

[threepot]

... or a leak or hole in the exhaust
[/quote
I've got a couple of small holes in my silencers,and mine 'pop's a bit on overrun :icon_wink:

[BruKen]

What is this "rubber grease" you speak of you wiley old Jock. Never heard of it and I want some for my overstocked but never used man cave g'raj. I mean what bloke, or for that point, saucy wench, wouldn't be impressed with a causual throw away comment of "In that draw I keep my rubber grease and iron filings"

[threepot]

Think ST means this..

[BruKen]

Huh! Well I'll be a monkey's. Whatever next? 

[Sin_Tiger]

I know where you've been going wrong, don't look in the Adult & SM section of Ebay 

Also handy for assembling O rings, hyd piston and lip seals.

[JayDub]

I know where you've been going wrong, don't look in the Adult & SM section of Ebay 

I didn't even know they had an S&M section?  - how did you find out about it then? 

[Sin_Tiger]

I have a feeling this is not helping Kenny unless he's either  or 

So back OT, any more ideas?

If just buy a couple of 12mm long handle keys, they're not very expensive and you'll need them again at some time in the future. Try UK Tool Centre.

[kenny junior]

Not helpful but definately interesting. Do you reckon the s & m section will have a swing which could be adapted to support the front of the bike in strip downs?

I received a couple of keys yesterday so will be on that tonight and let you know the results.