Voltage Fix - 955 Tigers .......better known as the SASQUATCH MOD

[Nimrod11]

it's secured with 4 stainless steel zip ties (OMFG I never even knew these existed...I don't think I'll ever buy tinsel again at Xmas)

Congrats on your fix! Post pictures, would love to see what you did with the RR.

Enjoy the ride!

[Sabre]

So what's the bottom line on a good replacement (non OEM) R/R for our girlies? Stretch has written about an SCR unit from a Honda 600RR, then later about one from the 1,000RR.

Do we have a consensus on a good, reliable replacement? I know it won't be plug-and-play, but don't want to be in experimental mode with the beast. We're looking to increase reliability, after all!  :D

[Stretch]

I did away with the stock SCR unit and went with a more efficient, cooler-running MOSFET unit from a 2008 CBR1000RR.  The manufacturer's model number of the R/R itself is FH008EB.

[german]

Now, some one has checked or has had any issue with the ROTOR alternator (magnets)?
In my case I replaced the batt, RR and the stator, I performed the wiring mod  and still the same low voltage.

[oxnsox]

Have you had it off the bike???  If it's not seated right, or the stator is not seated right the fields would have less effect resulting in lower output... but it does sound odd.....  Guess you've checked all your connections for the mod, you could also be missing a winding, and that will lead to the system failing (again).

[RT]

I did it! With the weather being so friggin cold even in Florida (and I don't have gear for ridin at 30 deg) I decided to have at it. Was a bit of a PITA with the position of the connector but got er done w/o pulling the tank.
Fired her up cold and was reading on the datel up around 14.4 to 14.5. Never been that high before, best at cold start was around 13.8.

In the morning going to hook back up the 55w driving lights along with some "trash can" LED Amber marker lights I built this week to see what she does around town. Will post update once I give her a try. And if I can find my camera will post some pic's of my home made led lights.

[Bob Tosi]

OK gents I've got a 98 Steamer and am trying to find the point of connection for the regulator/rectifier to do this mod but cant find it?????????   Where is it????? Anyone....please!!!!!! I am trying not to start taking stuff apart, but.........

[Mustang]

the steamers regulator /rectifier is built into the alternator like a car .
I for one have not seen the need to modify anything on the steamer as all three of mine show 12.9 to 13.2 volts at  the battery when idling at 1200 rpm .........with bone stock wiring configuration ........just sayin
bring the rpm up to 1700 or so and I show 14.1 volts at the battery

[Bob Tosi]

Well I was testing and got 13.0 volts at a warm idle of 1000rpms.  At 3000rpms I got over 14.0 volts.  With the mod couldnt I get better at idle?  If the R/R is built in how would you do this mod on a Steamer?  Anyone?

[John Stenhouse]

You wouldn't there isn't any point. Thirteen at idle is fine, don't need any more than that.

[Bob Tosi]

well that settles that!  What if I add extra lights?

[Mustang]

well that settles that!  What if I add extra lights?

the steamer alternator puts out at idle speed approx. 400 watts of power at a running sped of 3000 rpm you would be seeing approx 500 watts

so start adding up your wattage draw ......

both headlights on low beam will draw 110 watts by themselves
switch to high beam and you consume even more wattage depending on what you have foer H4 bulbs ie. if you have 80 watt high beams you have consumed 160 watts already on high beam

now add in the amount of wattage a cooling fan willrun and any additional lights on the bike
instrument panel bulbs
brake and tail bulbs
if you have heated grips
you will find that you are fast approaching your limit for wattage

if you add in some 55 watt driving lights well there goes another 110 watts whenever they are turned on .

[tett]

If you are near your wattage limit you can always go for the new 10 watt LED driving lights.  Durable and blindingly bright.  I don't have these (yet) but have seen them in use.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/denali-led-lights/

tett

well that settles that!  What if I add extra lights?

[Bob Tosi]

the slide show on the end of that page says it all. those lights are worth it.

[hkousoulos]

I am sooooooooo happy!!!  :D  :D  :D  :D

Just did the fix last night and it is fantastic. I think I got almost 2V increase with this. This is where my problem was. Thank you all so much for this tip. I would have been a frustrated Tiger owner otherwise.

I also wanted to leave my little contribution for others to go ahead and do this fix. It is so easy to do. The first time I read it, I thought I would have to take the bike down to my mechanic to do it but it is very simple indeed.

I made the two wires, according to the instructions, using a Maxi Fuse (I discovered that here in Brazil they call it a "Big Foot") of 40A. You can actually do them quite short as you can bring the plug near the battery. Actually, if it weren't for the two plugs on the positive, you could just use the wire that comes with the fuse holder.

Here are the wires I made:


You will note further down that they could be much shorter.

The bike wire you have to disconnect is on the left side, near the accessory power outlet. You will notice it comes from the Regulator/Rectifier that is just to the left of the battery, hidden away. The bike's harness goes over to the right side of the bike. This wire you don't want anymore. This is the connector:


Once disconnected, isolate the bike harness part and pull the connector you want up near the battery. Then just connect the harness you made to the connector and to the battery. here is my final setup:


Note that the original connector sits right beside the battery terminal. This gives you an idea of how short you man make your wires.

I also installed my little voltmeter. This of course took much longer as you have to take all the front of the bike off:


The reading is 13V but this is after the aux lights switch. At the battery terminals, it was 13.5V, up from about 11.7V before the fix at idle.  :lol:

And, since I am posting, here are the lights I put on:



Very cheap lights, bought at Walmart, but very effective when driving and very easy to install. I just used the same screw that holds the side panel of the bike on, just near the flickers.

Go ahead, do this fix. It is great! With all this power, I'll now install a 42"TV and a microwave for the popcorn...

Thanks to all of the Forum for this great tip!

Regards,
John

Hi John...do you know here i can find one of this meters???