Coolant Capacity Discrepancy

[FullMonte]

I changed the Tiger's coolant today as per the shop manual.  The weird part is it only took approximately 1.5 litres to fill up.  However, the manual lists the capacity as 2.8 litres.  I even started the bike and let it idle for a couple of minutes to let any air bubbles out of the system as specified in the manual, then removed the tank again to check the level.  That didn't make a difference.  Anybody else notice this?  Suggestions?

[Mustang]

Probably because you never really drained all of the old coolant .......?  
Not sure on the girlies , but on the steamers there are two drain plugs one at the base of the cylinders and the other is one of the three water pump bolts at the bottom of the engine , and even then there will still be some coolant left that you can't really get out

#9 in the below drawing is the bolt you need to remove when refilling the coolant on the girlies , it let's the air escape as the coolant is put in the system .

[FullMonte]

Probably because you never really drained all of the old coolant .......?  
Not sure on the girlies , but on the steamers there are two drain plugs one at the base of the cylinders and the other is one of the three water pump bolts at the bottom of the engine , and even then there will still be some coolant left that you can't really get out

#9 in the below drawing is the bolt you need to remove when refilling the coolant on the girlies , it let's the air escape as the coolant is put in the system .

Nothing was mentioned about removing water pump bolts in the shop manual.  I had the #9 bleed screw all the way unscrewed and completely out of its hole when refilling.  The drain plug is on the left side of the engine just below one of the coolant hoses.  That's the only plug the manual says to remove, so that's what I did.  Should I ride it around the block a couple of miles to burp the system?

[walker]

there will still be a good amount of coolant in the hose going to the water pump - the haynes shows disconnecting that from the radiator and draining the radiator / water pump / main coolant hose.

Did you do that too? or just the bolt in the block? That would explain the amount of coolant it took  :)

[FullMonte]

there will still be a good amount of coolant in the hose going to the water pump - the haynes shows disconnecting that from the radiator and draining the radiator / water pump / main coolant hose.

Did you do that too? or just the bolt in the block? That would explain the amount of coolant it took  :)

OK thanks, I'll try that.  Nope, I didn't disconnect those, just the bolt in the block.  There goes a $20 bottle of Engine Ice down the drain. :roll:   I'd like to throttle the writer who effed this procedure up in the Triumph shop manual. :twisted:  I appreciate the advice.

[walker]

it says to disconnect the hose at the radiator, and then point it downwards to drain. I do see what you're talking about in the triumph manual - doesn't say anything about it.

dunno why you couldn't do it at the pump though.... maybe because you can sort of control where the coolant goes at that point?

Anyway - you'll find more coolant there than you expect to find! I just did mine about 4 weeks ago (along with a bunch of other stuff that probably was never done, but is done now!).

[FullMonte]

That makes sense.  Thanks for the peace of mind Walker.  Now I have to wait until the shop opens up on Tuesday to get another bottle of coolant. :x   I need a drink or three...

[TigerTrax]

I think you need to warm the bike B-4 you change the coolant. Warm enough to open the thermostat so coolant will drain thru the system.
85°F+ us when the thermostst should open and coolant begins to flow. If that does not open.... change the thermostat.

I am about to do the same on my '06... first time..

In the manual:
Chapter 10: COOLANT SYSTEM
Page 10-5: It shows the coolant bleed screw and Coolant Drain Plug.
                Use coolant BLEED SCREW to get rid of air bubbles WHILE THE
                ENGINE IS RUNNING and coolant is warm.
PS: I don't know if it is an issue any more... but your engine  
      and radiator tubes are made of aluminum.... make certain you are
      using an antifreeze that is compatible with aluminum.

[2004Tiger]

I used Toyota red coolant. Good stuff. I also was only able to refill with 1.5 qts of coolant, using the procedure you describe. I did not remove the bottom hose. If you have an incompatability issue you will want to drain again and flush with water more than once, because even with the hose removed all of the old will not drain. If your new coolant is compatible with the old, just ride it. I was fearful I did not fill completely, but after more than a year of normal operation, I am confident it is full.

[FullMonte]

Well folks, I did the deed again yesterday using the procedure suggested above (draining the coolant from the radiator in addition to the block).  The motor would only take 1.8 litres of coolant this time.  So I started the bike and let it idle for 5 minutes to let it get hot, which it did.  After shutting her off, removing the tank (another facking time :roll: ) and letting her cool, I popped the cap and filled it up.  It only took a few tablespoons before overflowing throught the open bleed screw.  I'm leaving Monday morning for a 3500+ mile trip and this is really starting to piss me off.  For this much aggravation, I could've had a KTM.  Love the bike, hate working on it.  I'm going to put the tank back on tomorrow, so if you have any really good not yet mentioned advice, post it up.

[flux]

Monte, I myself am dreading the day I have to take that tank off.  I have not done it yet... probably should just so I know the procedure.  From what I understand it's a major pain.

Personally, I'd just bring some coolant with me and check it often.  Or is the bike getting hotter than safe operating temps?

[walker]

it's probably got enough in it then! I had the head off of mine. so I had taken the radiator off the bike.... some still spilled out even though I had drained the radiator... amazing how that bike can hold water. The drain plut will drain the block good enough. The hose and radiator hold a good amount. Might still be some in the pump - but when I put everything back - INCLUDING refilling the overflow tank (which I had drained out and cleaned) - I still had at least a quart of coolant left - out of 1 gallon... maybe a bit more. So I think it took almost 2.5 liters (maybe a bit more).... but that did include the catch can. And some spillage from taking the cap off a second time.

did you refill the coolant reservoir too? It holds a good amount. Maybe that capacity is bone dry refill, including the catch can?

[Stretch]

Monte, don't get vexxed... on many engines it's simply not possible to remove every bit of coolant from the case / block with the engine sitting in the vehicle.  That's why folks flush out the old coolant with a pressurized water source (hose).  You got the majority of the old coolant out (twice), so you're good for a long, long time.

[EvilBetty]

Can you use those prestone back-flush kits on the Girly?  Is there room anywhere for the T-connector?

[Stretch]

I don't trust those cheap-ass connectors to not break or crack somewhere out on the trail.

After draining and collecting as much of the old coolant as possible, I just run the engine with a hose down inside the cap neck, letting the excess overflow back out the neck.  It's messy, but effective.  The water pump circulates the fresh water throughout the engine and dilutes the old coolant to the point that after a few minutes it is essentially gone.

Then I drain the system again and top it up with 100% gycol (since there is a significant amount of water remaining in the case, it comes out to about 50/50)