Engine misfire/surge

[RiderX]

Hello all, I need some advice. I just completed renewing my fork seals, brake and clutch fluids on my '98. I put everything back together and took her for a spin and she runs like crap. Ran fine before the repairs.

I left on a two week vacation trip with almost no gas left in the tank. I returned to find fork oil all over the garage floor so that started the repairs. This initially led me to believe that it was bad fuel or moisture in the fuel tank (in spite of the 100+ temps and low humidity conditions) so I filled the tank and added about 1/3 can of Sea Foam. I rode about 10 miles to work this a.m. and it still runs really bad. At low speeds it sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders. At 3-4k RPM it surges off and on and smooths out over 50mph. I am really leaning towards an electrical issue although I replaced the plug wires last winter. I am wondering if I could've mangled something under the front fairing during reassembly but I wouldn't know where to start looking. Any ideas would be appreciated.

[JetdocX]

Well, the short answer is....take all the plastic and tank off and start with the easy stuff.  Replace the plugs.  Inspect the old ones to maybe get a clue as to the misbehaving cylinder.

Drain the float bowls.  Install an inline filter on the fuel line.

Consider replacing the coils with aftermarket.

That's how I usually start when mine acts up.

Consider removing the screens on the fuel cock.

[RiderX]

Thanks man. My concern is in dealing with the carbs. I had some issues before that started with me thinking it was carbs and ended up being valve adjustments. In any case my memory was that the carbs are pretty inaccessible w/o pulling them all the way out of the bike. I'd rather not go there. Is there an easy way to do the "Drain the float bowls. Install an inline filter on the fuel line" step or does it require pulling them out?

[JetdocX]

I have the Kehhien carbs.  Draining the float bowl is easy with everything installed.  The fuel line will be a little harder.  I removed the tank to install mine, but I was already there changing the plugs.

I really doubt that valves are your problem this time.

[RiderX]

Sorry, nope, I didn't mean to imply that I was suspecting valves. Just that I almost came to pulling the carbs on the previous occasion and was somewhat daunted by the task. I'll pull out the Haynes when I get home and give it a go. My other concern is something blocking or clogging the filter and it sounds like the carbs need to be pulled to even access it. What a brilliant feat of English engineering that is!

[JetdocX]

It's the ugly side of the "Steamer Experience".  

Nine tools required to remove the rear wheel.  That is a feat of engineering right there. :roll:

[Mustang]

It aint the carbs it's the coils just bite the bullet  and buy 3 nology coils for 200 bucks ..............

[Sin_Tiger]

It aint the carbs it's the coils just bite the bullet  and buy 3 nology coils for 200 bucks ..............

I was talking to Trev at Sprint Manufacturing recently and he informed me that the coils he stocks are made by 'Nology' but have the LT and HT connections that match the existing Steamer fittings so are a straight swap, he told me that the coils 'Nology' normally supply have different fittings and you have to patch on the old leads, is that your experience?

I am just about to order a set myself.

[Mustang]

The one's on my tigger were plug and play ..........stock wires worked just fine

[JetdocX]

The one's on my tigger were plug and play ..........stock wires worked just fine

Mine, too.

[nightrunner]

The coils on my 98 started acting up when I brought out of winter storage.  Ran fine the previous fall.  It behaves the same way, sputtered at low RPM and ran OK at high RPM.  Wouldn't idle at all.  And I wasted a lot of time thinking it was fuel related.  If you cant afford the Nologys there is also the TT600 coil swap detailed in several threads here.  $30-40 for a set of 4 on ebay.

[RiderX]

Hmm, you all have got me real concerned now. I was one step away from pulling the carbs off and just checked in to see if I could find nightrunners or mustangs steps for removal of clutch and throttle cables. Is there any way to be sure it's coils before buying new ones on suspicion?

[RiderX]

Oh and it idles fine, more or less, but runs like crap at low rpm and surges at about 1/4 throttle turn.

[RiderX]

Ok, now I am thinking this happened for a reason. I managed to pull the carbs out and was very proud of myself following Mustang's suggestions for cable removal. While inspecting the carb parts I noticed the throttle cable is worn through about right in the middle of the cable. It is worn all the way through the insulation and part way through the metal shielding. I was planning on a solo 6-hour ride next weekend (Boise to Lewiston) and the thought of what might have happened along the way is still giving me the willies! :shock:

I also found crud in the fuel filter and the in-tank reserve filter. I am following the suggestion by Red Menace to reroute the filter and I will reassemble as soon as the dealer gets my new cable.

[Sin_Tiger]

I noticed the throttle cable is worn through about right in the middle of the cable. It is worn all the way through the insulation and part way through the metal shielding.

That's got me thinking too, added to my list to check, thanks  :icon_salut