Bleeding front brakes on a 98 Steamer

[Bob Tosi]

I had to replace the right front brake line.  I have a vacuum assist pump to help.  Basically all I need to do is keep the vacuum up and the new brake fluid coming until all the air is out and the lever has a good firm squeeze right?

[JetdocX]

I've never relied on my mighty vac to make brake bleeding happen.  I prefer the old way of pump it up and hold, loosen bleeder screw and tighten.  Repeat as required.

[Mustang]

I've never relied on my mighty vac to make brake bleeding happen.  I prefer the old way of pump it up and hold, loosen bleeder screw and tighten.  Repeat as required.

do you also like "fingernails on a blackboard"

[Colonel Nikolai]

I've never relied on my mighty vac to make brake bleeding happen.  I prefer the old way of pump it up and hold, loosen bleeder screw and tighten.  Repeat as required.

That's the way I've always done it. Are we lame old fogeys, Mustang?

[rybes]

I've never relied on my mighty vac to make brake bleeding happen.  I prefer the old way of pump it up and hold, loosen bleeder screw and tighten.  Repeat as required.

same way i bleed me brkes. a lot easier. i found if ya bleed the master cylinder first, makes things a lot quicker

[nightrunner]

I have never bled brakes on the Tiger so don't know if this is a problem.   But on some other models, the air bubbles in the front lines will rise faster than you can force the fluid down to the calipers.   The trick they use is to reverse bleed.  You need a big syringe or similar device to force the fluid in at the calipers and then an eye dropper or turkey baster to remove it from the master as it accumulates.   FWIW

[Bob Tosi]

i found if ya bleed the master cylinder first, makes things a lot quicker

How do you bleed the master cylinder?

But on some other models, the air bubbles in the front lines will rise faster than you can force the fluid down to the calipers. The trick they use is to reverse bleed. You need a big syringe or similar device to force the fluid in at the calipers and then an eye dropper or turkey baster to remove it from the master as it accumulates. FWIW

This sounds a little tricky to do,  where would one get a large capacity syringe?

[Timbox2]

I have never bled brakes on the Tiger so don't know if this is a problem.   But on some other models, the air bubbles in the front lines will rise faster than you can force the fluid down to the calipers.   The trick they use is to reverse bleed.  You need a big syringe or similar device to force the fluid in at the calipers and then an eye dropper or turkey baster to remove it from the master as it accumulates.   FWIW

I believe the reverse method is daveb's prefered method, also funnily enough it was the recommended way to bleed Magura Hydraulic brakes on Mountain Bikes.

[rybes]

i found if ya bleed the master cylinder first, makes things a lot quicker

How do you bleed the master cylinder?

pump the lever a few times i usually go for 20. then hold the lever in and undo the banjo bolt that holds the brake lines too it. youll see lots of lil air bubbles cme out. do that till all ya air bubbles have gone. dont forget to put a rag underneath to catch brake fluid n change it when it every so often. then bleed the brakes startin with the caliper furthest away from the cylinder as normal.

[BruKen]

Vacuum pump?! You lazy git. I suck pumping the lever with one hand and spanner twirling with the other. Brake fluid is an aquired taste. Sure gives you cotton mouth tho
 :twisted:

I dont neccessairly advise this method, just stating how dumb I am. The vacuum pump was feeble and you can pump all you like, but you'll be there a month of Sundays and not see any benefit if the slaves were near dry.

[Mustang]

Vacuum pump?! You lazy git. I suck pumping the lever with one hand and spanner twirling with the other. Brake fluid is an aquired taste. Sure gives you cotton mouth tho
 :twisted:

I dont neccessairly advise this method, just stating how dumb I am. The vacuum pump was feeble and you can pump all you like, but you'll be there a month of Sundays and not see any benefit if the slaves were near dry.

ya must not have read the bloody directions ............
dry calipers after rebuild ,both sides ,two new dry brake lines , and empty master , 1 bottle of brake fluid , 1 mighty vac and 10 minutes brakes full and bled easy peasy and I don't have to drink it  :shock:

I got better things to do then spend all day fussing about with someone elses brakes

[BruKen]

It's always easy in theory :roll: So why does it never work that way for me huh?! Just once I'd like to be able to apply easy theory to spanner twirling but the gods of Dumbass are always watchin. :x

[Bob Tosi]

so here was the culprit. A broken right front banjo fitting after a low speed tip over in mud and ice.




The solution, fittings and hose from the local hot rod shop, $50.




installation complete:




Ready to start the bleeding process:


What was left in the MC after the broken line, looks like crap doesnt it?


About 12 ounzes of fluid later and about an hour, I've got good brakes again in the front.  The feel is good but I would like it to be firmer than it is.  The Mighty Vac worked well along with the conventional method. I flushed the left side also, so now both sides have fresh fluid.

[Bob Tosi]

Well after a few miles I could stand the lever being spongey anymore.  I bleed the master cylinder and that helped a little I guess.  Then I bleed both calipers again and it is a little better but not what it was before I replaced the broken line.

The part I dont get is that the lever felt rock hard before.  Even after the broken line and the field repair.  Now I've got brakes but the lever feels spongey but works. Just not the hard lever I had before which allowed 1 finger braking in the dirt or on downhills.

Anyone got any ideas on how to proceed ?

[Mustang]

start over you still got air in the brake lines , new lines hold a lot of brake fluid  :shock: