High idle then dies with throttle...plus other questions

[Bixxer Bob]

The codes are a result of powering the ECU with stuff disconnected.The only reliable way of reading codes is to read before you strip anything down.  Also clear after re assembly then run her. Then check again.

Check the throttle percentage is changing when you open and close the throttle  using TuneECU, then reset the TPS. TPS won't show 100% on full throttle, this is nornal, don't worry about it.   If that doesn't work, check the TPS plug for crap connections.  If you do decide to change the TPS the throttle bodies have to come off.  I did a how-to on this.  Be aware that air leaks between the TBs and the head are not uncommon so taking them off and replacing the gasket might help too.

[mhaserodt]

I didn't see where to reset the TPS, but I'll check it again.  There's a lot of info in there, so I probably just missed it.

Interesting that you mention the TB gasket.  A new one was included with the bike.  The previous owner said the dealer sold it to him as a way to stop a slight backfire that would occasionally happen.  I never had any backfire, so I never bothered with it.  It sounds like it might be a good idea to replace it since I have the gasket handy anyhow.

[Bixxer Bob]

It's straight forward as I said, I wrote a 'how to' when I did mine. Take care with the torx screws holding the manifold  in place, they're  made of cheese :lol:

Found it,  http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,44959 (http://tigertriple.com/forum/index.php/msg,44959)

[mhaserodt]

I just wanted to post an update, even though I haven't done much.  I checked the TPS and it constantly showed 0% even after resetting it.  The connection looked clean.  So right now I'm waiting on a new TPS to come in.

In the meantime I've removed the throttle body assembly to get ready for the new TPS and the gasket was in terrible shape.  It was very brittle and I could see that there were several spots were it was definitely leaking air.  So I've cleaned all that up and put the new gasket on.

I could have sworn I had seen a post on here somewhere about re-adjusting the throttle cable when messing with the throttle bodies, but I can't seem to find it.  I assume I shouldn't have to mess with that since I haven't actually removed the throttle cable, right?  I've just pulled the throttle bodies back far enough to replace the gasket.

[Bixxer Bob]

Cable should be fine, stop worrying.  The poor state of the gasket is good news from the fix point of view. Just be sure to put the IACV hoses back with no leaks when you reassemble.

And if you have TuneECU don't be tempted to cycle the IACV to check it works ok while you have it off the bike. You'll end up with bits all over the garage and £67 for a new one.

[mhaserodt]

I think it's fixed.  I got it back together this afternoon and it steadily idled about 1100 rpm for ~5 minutes.  I haven't taken it for a ride yet, but at least it stays idling.

In the end I cleaned the inside of the throttle bodies (they were coated in some crusty brownish-white flaky gunk), replaced the TB gasket, replaced the TPS, and replaced the vacuum lines running from the TB to the stepper motor.

Thanks everyone for all of your help.  I really appreciate it.  8)

[blacktiger]

I think it's fixed.  I got it back together this afternoon and it steadily idled about 1100 rpm for ~5 minutes.  I haven't taken it for a ride yet, but at least it stays idling.

In the end I cleaned the inside of the throttle bodies (they were coated in some crusty brownish-white flaky gunk), replaced the TB gasket, replaced the TPS, and replaced the vacuum lines running from the TB to the stepper motor.

Thanks everyone for all of your help.  I really appreciate it.  8)

I like a good outcome. Hopefully now you can enjoy a great bike.

I do wonder, after reading through this, how all your plastic/rubber bits got so brittle.

[Bixxer Bob]

I guess the flakey brown stuff in the TBs is a clue. Whatever the PO was putting through it probably rotted the tubes too.  I've been looking around for possible causes but can't find anything so far. Being in the trade, maybe Metalguru will have an idea

[metalguru]

If there is a chemist out there with a masters they could give the breakdown of what it is. Generally its what is known as heavy ends. (evaporated fuel).
It is usually generated by petrol vapour being reflected off the top of the inlet valve. The deposit can get heavy to the point of causing malfunction usually on cars when the breather is routed close by and oil coats the surfaces, along with carbon from misfires/blowby/leaky valves, etc.

In this instance the coating on the surfaces was increased by wrong mixture caused by the IACV pipes leaking, increasing the reflected charge.

Don't worry a light deposit in 20k is quite normal, just clean when servicing the air filter and balancing the TBs.

The rotted tubes are just down to sub-standard plastic supplied originally. Some one probably left out an ingredient in the original extrusion mix.

[mhaserodt]

I'm really not sure what the previous owner did to the bike.  I assumed that the brittle bits had to do with the fact that it was rarely ridden and spent its first 11 years in the salty air and sun of Florida.  I believe that all of the U.S. requires a 10% mix of Ethanol in our fuels.  From what I've heard this can cause issues with fuel lines and such.  It's all anecdotal though.  I've personally never had a problem with it in other cars/bikes.  

As far as I can tell I'm the 3rd owner.  The previous owner had the bike for about 2 years (if I recall correctly).  He kept it stored under a cover in an open carport.  He sold it because he bought another bike and didn't need 2 of them.  I don't know how the original owner kept the bike.  My understanding was he bought it mostly as a toy, and really never rode it.  

Currently the bike only has 7600 miles on it.  I had expected a little gunk in the TBs but it did seem a little excessive...I should have taken some pics. Looking down into the valves showed a little bit of what appeared to be carbon deposits, but they looked pretty clean.  I suppose it's possible that the odometer was replaced or something at some point, but the title history doesn't suggest any kind of problems.

With all that being said, I'm sort of back to square 1.  Like I said it was running the other day.  After that I replaced all the trim, bolted the fuel tank back on and whatnot.  This evening I tried to take it for a ride, and it would wouldn't start.  It cranks but never catches, acting like it's not getting fuel.  So I'll check it out with my laptop tomorrow and see if I've knocked something loose, or pinched something while putting the trim back on.

[mhaserodt]

Went out this evening with laptop in hand, ready to check everything out.  I decided to try to start it again before hooking up the laptop and removing side covers, and it started right up.  I'm convinced this bike hates me.

Since I was already there I checked everything out on TuneECU and everything looks fine.

[Bixxer Bob]

Took mine for MOT last week, tester couldn't get it started only 5mins after I parked. it cranked but wouln't fire. I went out, fired first time.  Never done  that before but I guess its time to do some checking.  I do know my side stand switch is starting to play up though... :roll:

[mhaserodt]

So far I haven't had any more problems with it starting.  I ended up replacing the IAC stepper motor because it was still dying when I came to a stop.  That was the original issue that got me tearing into the bike and apparantly messing everything else up. :lol:  That seems to have corrected that issue, and I've had no other problems after putting about 200 miles on it this past week.

In all I feel better a lot better about the bike.  I've replaced all those parts, cleaned things up, flushed the coolant, changed the oil, air filter, and fuel filter, and switched over to the metal fuel fittings...so it should be about like new.  Now I know when some of the maintenance was last done at least.