Givi box steel blanks

[97tiger885]

The local locksmith can no longer get steel blanks to make copies of my keys for my Givis.  The average lifespan for the steel copies was 10 months.  The average lifespan for nonsteel is about 3 weeks.  I am now using the original.  I dont want to tear this one.  (I think I have another stock key in my bank box. I hope I do.)  Anybody got suggestions where I might find steel blanks? On the plus side,  I am getting much faster at  removing and disassembling the cases, removing the lock and extracting the broken key from the lock. 

[Mustang]

something aint right if your breaking keys off , my givis don't have that problem .

but here are givi keys and locksets with matching keys for cheap money

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-product/luggage-racks?brand=Givi&cat=1405

[97tiger885]

something aint right if your breaking keys off , my givis don't have that problem .

but here are givi keys and locksets with matching keys for cheap money

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/shop-by-product/luggage-racks?brand=Givi&cat=1405

Thats what I ended up doing.  Two barrels, four keys for $25 from TT.

I just dont have your soft hands.

I will try doing a better job of lubrication.  Maybe that will help.

I am using the key  on average about 15 times a week (15 open + 15 close).   There are some weeks I use it 40 to 50 times.

[Bixxer Bob]

With normal use a key - even the "soft" Givi keys, should give years of use.  My top box has done 60,000 miles and the key is worn almost to the brass, but it never has given any problems.  The lock shouldn't offer any resistance to the key.  The key should enter the lock and turn smoothly without snagging anywhere.  There should be no load on the lock from the case latch that would make it stiff to turn. 

If your case(es) meet those criteria, you should not be breaking keys.

Then what would I know, oh yeh, I trained as a locksmith when I left the military....

[97tiger885]

The lock shouldn't offer any resistance to the key.  The key should enter the lock and turn smoothly without snagging anywhere.  There should be no load on the lock from the case latch that would make it stiff to turn. 

If your case(es) meet those criteria, you should not be breaking keys.

Then what would I know, oh yeh, I trained as a locksmith when I left the military....

How do I eliminate the load from the case latch?  Lube,..., file,...,bend,...,cut?  And what should I modify...the case latch that turns with the key or the piece the latch catches?

[Bixxer Bob]

I'm not sure which closure you have.  Both my Givi topboxes have a hook arrangement the pulls down on a lip on the lid.  When the closing lever is pushed home it engages a latch. The latch then locks in place with the key.  This design affords two advantages, the first being the hook prevents strain on the latch and the latch avoids strain on the lock.

If your box closes ok, the latch engages cleanly and then releases cleanly then all is well, although a little lubrication is never wrong but use a grease that is compatible with moving plastic parts or you'll end up weakening them.  If it snags at all you have to look for witness marks to find where the problem is.  Generally you will find bright or polished marks where parts are rubbing, which is ok, but any binding - which may show as rougher marks - needs to be addressed.  Once the latch is sorted apply the same logic to the lock.  Eventually you'll find where the problem is.  When you find it, go easy with the files and pliers,or you'll overdo it.  Locks need care to get thdm working right. 

It might be better to start with a new lockset though, at least that way you can see it works ok before you fit it to the box.

[97tiger885]

I'm not sure which closure you have.  Both my Givi topboxes have a hook arrangement the pulls down on a lip on the lid.  When the closing lever is pushed home it engages a latch. The latch then locks in place with the key.  This design affords two advantages, the first being the hook prevents strain on the latch and the latch avoids strain on the lock.

If your box closes ok, the latch engages cleanly and then releases cleanly then all is well, although a little lubrication is never wrong but use a grease that is compatible with moving plastic parts or you'll end up weakening them.  If it snags at all you have to look for witness marks to find where the problem is.  Generally you will find bright or polished marks where parts are rubbing, which is ok, but any binding - which may show as rougher marks - needs to be oaddressed.  Once the latch is sorted apply the same logic to the lock.  Eventually you'll find where the problem is.  When you find it, go easy with the files and pliers,or you'll overdo it.  Locks need care to get thdm working right. 

It might be better to start with a new lockset though, at least that way you can see it works ok before you fit it to the box.

Thanks for the info.