Proper 3 spoke conversion

[rybes]

just stick with it and get used to it gav. once ya used to it youll be able to throw it about almost like a sports bike. i regularly get the center stand scrapin or me toes. what tyre pressure have ya got in it ? im on 42 rear 36 front. dont foget the tyres ya on now aint as flat as what used to be on there so thatllmake a differnce in the way it corners.
my forks are 930mm too but im afraid i lied to ya. mine aint flush at the top, they have 25mm stickin up through the top yoke not includin the fork cap. springs are hyper pro with i think the standard spacer in them

[GavD]

I was thinking of sticking my forks up through the yokes, but I'd have to chop some arcs into the plastic clock surround to be able to move the steering through to the locks. If yours are sticking up through by 25mm and are 930mm long, that effectively makes them roughly the same length as mine then at 900mm.

Gotta get the carbs sorted first anyway. Then think about the front end.

[GavD]

Just had another look, will have to cut an arc approx 3mm into the clock surround, so not too much. Might try dropping the yokes 20mm and give it a test run first before I actually cut the arcs out.

[Bixxer Bob]

Just to add a comment on twitchiness.  I fitted road orientated tyres instead of block tread to my 05 Girly and the change was shocking.  That was without doing anything else to it.  It felt like a knife-edge, dropping into turns and steering really quickly. However, a few miles and a few days getting used to it and it became awesome. Most noticeable once I thought about what was going on was the lack of weight on the inside bar when cornering.  It needed a sustained counter steering push before the change. Afterwards, the bar weight was neutral meaning much sharper steering. Rybes is right, it'll grow on you. 

[rf9rider]

I wouldn`t mess around with it too much before you get the 17 inch rear wheel fitted.

Mines not "twitchy" at all, although it took some getting used to compared with the original set up.

What measurement of air gap did you use in the forks?

As Rybes said, once you get used to it, it should handle like a sports bike!

[rybes]

Just to add a comment on twitchiness.  I fitted road orientated tyres instead of block tread to my 05 Girly and the change was shocking.  That was without doing anything else to it.  It felt like a knife-edge, dropping into turns and steering really quickly. However, a few miles and a few days getting used to it and it became awesome. Most noticeable once I thought about what was going on was the lack of weight on the inside bar when cornering.  It needed a sustained counter steering push before the change. Afterwards, the bar weight was neutral meaning much sharper steering.

nail on the head there mate

[GavD]

Cheers for the thoughts fellas, got a carb to sort out first which is doing my head in - I'll post about this later.

Fork air gap was 130mm as per haynes manual for steamer kayaba's. I've put 15w oil in, instead of 10w, i've got the Hagon progressive springs in with no spacers at the moment.

Tyres are 36psi front & 40 psi rear.

[GavD]

First of all, I've got keihins not the usual mikuni's.

Got into the carbs last night and found the LH one was filling up, but not stopping and fuel was coming out the back and into the airbox. Thinking back, when I was on my test run, I was getting some popping and banging on little or no throttle which was unusual and points to unburnt fuel in the exhaust. Anyway, got em out, rigged up the fuel tank on my bench and set about having a look.

1st strip, removed float and needle valve, nothing obvious visibly so gave it all a good clean including the hole the fuel fills through (used a tooth pick and a gentle twist with a phillips screwdriver to dislodge any gunk. Stuck it all back together - same.

2nd strip swapped over float and needle valve between centre and LH carb - same, LH carb not shutting off fuel. Put all the bits back to their original carbs.

3rd strip, left float bowl off and operated the float with fuel switched on, I could stop the fuel flow with finger pressure on the float.  Bent the tab up slightly that applies the pressure to the valve stuck it all back together and although it still leaks a little, it's reduced it quite alot.

4th strip, bent tab again and this time it shuts off the fuel and when I crack open the float bowl, fuel comes out of the gap. Manual says fuel level should be 1.5mm above the mating surface of the float bowl.

Waiting on some clear tube to be delivered so I can check the height.

Checked the plugs, RH and centre are a nice brown colour, LH one is black, but not sooted up.

The only thing that worries me is that it was ok before, it's just been stood for 6 weeks so what would make it need to be adjusted?

Anyway, once I've set the fuel levels (might as well do them all while they're out) I'll get it back together then concentrate on the final touches for the 3 spokes.

Thanks again for everyone's input on my issues, i do appreciate it. Before the onset of the interweb thingy, there is NOOO WAY I would have tackled something like this.

[Sin_Tiger]

Tramlining is your tyres, nothing else.

[rf9rider]

I`ve got the Mikuni`s on mine, if i leave it for 6 weeks the fuel goes off and clogs the carbs, meaning a strip down and clean.

[GavD]

Ok chaps, need some thoughts on the carbs now.

I've been tinkering and have got the float level sorted out just about on my iffy carb.
The haynes manual says the fuel level should be 1.5mm above the float bowl mating face.
I've checked all three using the clear tube method and the LH and centre carb line up approx level with the float bowl mating surface. The RH carb (which has been running ok and has caused me no problems) is approx 5mm below the line.
How critical is this level?
As long as the jets (or the tubes the jets screw into) are submerged in fuel surely it will work OK.
I've been watching alot of youtube about it and they mention a lot about the fuel level affecting the richness, I though the richness was purely down to the jet size and airflow.

Do I get into the RH carb and start adjusting too or should I leave well alone seeing as how that one has been causing me no problems?

[chrisw]

I had 1 leaky carb on my bike recently which I cured by replacing the float to carb o rings ..... Im not sure if that was the actual problem but it worked .
In the tips section you will find  the o ring sizes and I got all of them from work in bags of 50 for less than a tenner ........... If you struggle I can post you a handful

[Mustang]

I had 1 leaky carb on my bike recently which I cured by replacing the float to carb o rings ..... Im not sure if that was the actual problem but it worked .
In the tips section you will find  the o ring sizes and I got all of them from work in bags of 50 for less than a tenner ........... If you struggle I can post you a handful

his keihins are totally different than the mikunis you have ............won't be of any use to him

[Sin_Tiger]

It does make a difference from my experience with older singles. I think the triple masks the effects but if you did a plug cut (stop the engine immediately on an on load run) you would notice it in the plug colours. That's not very practical doing it on the road side I know but it does work.

[GavD]

As I'm still waiting for my new carb rubber securing bands to turn up, I think I'll get into the RH carb this morning and try and get the level better.