Since it's in bits anyway....

[Bixxer Bob]

I decided to do some deep cleaning and remedial work.  Started with removing the crash bars; I'm going to weld brackets onto them for the driving lamps and the air horn then they are going off to the powder coaters.

while that's going on the carrier and rear cowl is coming off, everything properly cleaned and re-assembled.  THe power supply to the LED lamps in the Givi top box haven't worked for some time so fixing that is on the list, then the scrolling text display under the carrier also needs fixing. 

The rear brake will receive attention and a good clean, although it should be ok because I did it when I got back from France.   The rubber boot over the brake switch needs changing too.  Then it's on to the engine area - another good clean and tidy up and I think I'll replace all the rusty fasteners all over the bike with stainless steel allen screws. 

Then it'll be cowl off, good clean and fix anything that looks iffy including adjusting the lights which are all over the place at the moment.  Front forks seem ok but could probably do with an oil change.

Lots to do....

[chairhead]

Like you say mate, since its in bits then there's no time like the present, I always look forward to the sense of satisfaction I get when its all back to how it should be.............but with shiny bits added 

[Sin_Tiger]

Stainless Steel slider pins for the brake calipers are a good investment. Give Trevor a call because they aren't on the website catalogue. I like to use graphite based grease inside the boots, it's waterproof and doesn't harden up as quickly as other types. I use Land Rover Classic steering swivel grease if you can still get it.

[Chris Canning]

Now't wrong with looking after your tiger I've done more than most trying find a replacement we still have ours because we can't find anything better as opposed to not being able to afford a new bike I detest the Dora with a passion and the 800 is as much use as a hole in the head to us the Sport would be a doable if all else failed the current Multi was too cramped but the new 015 has had a lot of changes it looks the same but it ain't and I'll reserve judgement on that till I've ridden one and the BM XR!!! blimey it's like sitting on a chopper high bars low bum 

This years NEC show showed!!! Triumph are either behind the game or lost the plot

Look after your Tigers they may have to last a long time  :icon_wink:

[iansoady]

I like to use graphite based grease inside the boots, it's waterproof and doesn't harden up as quickly as other types.

I'd have thought, being mineral-based, it would rot the boot and certainly wouldn't do the seals any good if it got on them.......

[Chris Canning]

Last one I bought I got change out of 2 quid so not really important what you put on them  :icon_wink:

[Bixxer Bob]

Stainless Steel slider pins for the brake calipers are a good investment. Give Trevor a call because they aren't on the website catalogue. I like to use graphite based grease inside the boots, it's waterproof and doesn't harden up as quickly as other types. I use Land Rover Classic steering swivel grease if you can still get it.

I can't recall ever greasing inside the brake switch boot     And who's Trevor?

As for rotting the seals, are CV boots not rubber???

[PeteH]

All replacement bits and bobs are available at http://www.squaredeals-ltd.co.uk/index.asp espesh the caliper boots that you cant get from Triumph Brake switch cover is on the site somewhere 

[iansoady]

As for rotting the seals, are CV boots not rubber???

Nitrile I think....

[Sin_Tiger]

Trevor at Sprint Engineering. Been using it for years on the Landies, not had a problem with either seals or boots Ian, wish you hadn't said that,  I'll have to go and check the specs (OC).

[metalguru]

Tried an experiment a few years ago on the 955.
Where the rubber boots go through the rear caliper, the casting tends to corrode and tighten the boot to the sliding pin, thus binding the brake.
Tried various greases, lubes etc but still the problem persisted especially in the winter.
One cure would have been to measure the thickness of powdercoat and relieve the hole in the caliper by the same amount.
The next cure is by far the easiest to execute and the cheapest/quickest.
Remove all sliding pin rubbers and clean corrosion from housing.
Clean rubber/nitrile bushes and reinstall but first coat in ACF50.
I also experimented with keeping the brake piston in a moveable condition, again this was achieved by at the time replacing piston and seals but again coating in ACF50.
The results of this long term test have been very positive and I have included the use of ACF50 on all the service work on my own and others bikes with excellent results.
As for economy, a very small amount of the stuff goes a very long way, good job too as it's expensive, have used on electrical connections with no degradation.

[HockleyBoy]

Like the idea of using ACF50, havent tried it but as I suffer from sticking calipers, pistons etc every winter I am willing to give anything a go.

It will be interesting to see how much difference it makes for me as I spend a lot of time stripping, cleaning and rebuilding brakes. Anything that extends the interval would be great.

[Sin_Tiger]

  ACF50 is good stuff and a little does go a long way thankfully. Use it in my locks once a month and before lay up.

[aesdj]

Bixxer i hope your not trying to take my mantle as the biggest nerdie bike cleaner on here 

[Bixxer Bob]

No, and although you're good, Chris Canning takes top step.

Just going (eventually) to give it a bit of a cleanup.  Crash bars are now at the powder coaters so have made a start.....