Clocks going funny after a jump start

[Mr_J]

Hi,
I recently had a flat battery after an 80 mile ride, and ended up getting a jump from a recovery van. On the short ride before the bike died again, my speedo and rev counter were misbehaving, ie the speedo not reading anything below 30mph and the rev counter dead below ~2k. Has anyone seen this before?

I've had problems with the charging system before, and have had the stator re-wound and had 2 replacement reg/recs. Is this silliness with the battery and clocks likely to be related to this?

Cheers in advance.

[John Stenhouse]

Not seen it before as I have the 885i but when the battery went on that the clocks read all sorts of ftrange things, all fixed by new battery.

[Bixxer Bob]

All related.  The clocks all get their signal from the ECU.  If it's not getting enough volts then it can't do its job.

[Mr_J]

So that's another new battery and a trip to the local triumph dealer to find out why my bike's eating batteries. I had a new one in there with the last reg/rec replacement less than 6 months ago...

Cheers for the replies!

[Bixxer Bob]

the should get to the bottom of why you have so many charging problems.  It needs an end to end checkup.  One wonders.... have all three been changed at the same time???  If so then the problem is elsewhere such as dirty connectors or an earth leak that is constantly draining the battery.  If not, then one could be damaging the other.

Stators -  generally fail if they get too hot (constant and prolonged running in hot conditions at low speed) or if there's a dirty contact at the spade connector between the  yellow wires and the reg/rec wires which will take down a coil. If one or more of the three coils go down the charging voltage will drop too and if prolonged it'll kill the reg/rec.     

Reg/rec - fails either high or low.  If low the battery is constantly going flat. If high - typically around 17v, it'll boil the battery and kill it.  This is the most dangerous scenario as the battery can split or even explode.

Start with the simple stuff, check all the connectors are spotlessly clean and re-assemble with dialectric greas to keep them that way.  Then disconnect the battery -ve wire and connect a multimeter, with the meter scale set to AMPS or current, between the negative lead and the negative battery terminal.  With the ign off, if you get anything higher than zero you have a leak somewhere. 

Just doing these bits could restore your voltage to where it should be.

Try reading this:  http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/Troubleshooting-3P-PMG-&-RR.pdf

Oh, and replace the 30amp fuse on the side of the battery box with a GOOD new one, not a Walmart special....

[iansoady]

Then disconnect the battery -ve wire and connect a multimeter across it with the meter scale set to AMPS or current. 

He means between the disconnected lead and the negative terminal, not across the battery terminals!!!!

[Mustang]

He means between the disconnected lead and the negative terminal, not across the battery terminals!!!!

a good multi-meter has a fuse 

[Mr_J]

I've had the stator & reg/rec and the battery & rec/rec changed at the same time. I've never had all three changed at once.

I'll have to borrow a multimeter and I think I've got some dialectic grease in the shed.

Reckon it's worth taking the bike to a dealership for a plug in diagnostic anyway?

Thanks again for the replies and advice!

[Bixxer Bob]

Thanks for the helpful corrections; I knew what I meant!!   I amended the text and added a bit about the 30amp fuse.  Even though they check out for continuity, they sometimes seem to build up a resistance under load.  I don't understand why, they just do.

Plug in diagnostics are unlikely to reveal anything meaningful.  They are good for spotting sensors not working and, at a push, will tell you the battery voltage is high or low.  But you already knew that. 

[Mr_J]

Cool, I'll go through the checks you mentioned and pick up a fuse. When you say a good one, I take you mean avoid places like Halfords?

[Sin_Tiger]

I think what BB means ( everybody wants to put words in your mouth today  ) is that you should use a new one,  not one that's been lying around in a damp shed for a few years 

[Bixxer Bob]

Good point Sin, but what I meant was get one from a reputable dealer, not a box of assorted cheap Chinese rubbish from Aldi or whatever.  DAMHIK......

[Mr_J]

So I had a run through the checks BB recommended as best as I could. The battery is now duff, and I'm not getting the required output from the generator while it's charging. One of the three yellow wires from the reg/rec is looking a little crispy.

I called my local dealer for a quote to replace the stator and r/r and they want £632 including labour! I'm going to price the parts myself, as that's freaking horrendous, and I'm confident enough to change them over on my own.

Any recommendations for the parts?

Cheers!

[Sin_Tiger]

not a box of assorted cheap Chinese rubbish from Aldi or whatever.  DAMHIK......

That thought crossed my mind but I felt a bit  as I was viewing the page on a PC made in China by a Chinese company that bought out IBM 

Go for it, the support is here when you need it (says I pointing to the right  )

[exchead]

mr t that does sound alot for those two jobs,ive done both on my tiger im no bike mechanic the worst part of job for me was taking tank off only cos it was full of fuel,battery box out makes it easier to get to regulator bolts,i also did the sasquatch mod while it was all apart that was last year and bike has been good