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I did a bad, bad thing....

Started by bemusedinsojo, April 24, 2017, 04:12:50 AM

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bemusedinsojo

 :BangHead
I wanted to change my shifter fork oring today and after I removed the bolt and clamp I was cleaning out a lot of gunk and in my absent minded haste I pushed the shifter fork in. I read pulling it out too far can be bad. But too far in? And how do I get it back to where I can change the oring? I tried a magnet but no go.

Also, the output shaft sleeve needs to be removed so I can change the seal but I can't get it off (insert naughty joke here). Any ideas?

ssevy

Maybe clean the end of the shaft with some contact cleaner, and then use some JB Weld to glue a small flat headed machine screw to the end, with the head against the shaft end? You'll have to rig up something to hold it in place until it dries, but then you can use a short piece of hollow pipe, a fender washer, and a nut on the threads of that machine screw to slowly pull the shaft out.

As for scenario 2, I don't have a clue, unless perhaps a puller of some kind and a hot air gun to try and expand the sleeve without heating the shaft as well?

Good luck! I feel your pain, as cobbling on something that I had screwed up used to be my main pastime when I was younger!
I may not be big, but I'm slow.

JayDub

I used a strong 'Neodymium' or 'rare earth magnet' on a similar problem on a different bike, You'll find one in an old hard drive.

Timbox2

Dont know about shifter fork, but regards the output shaft seal, when I did the seal on the Girly last year I also couldnt remove the sleeve but still replaced the seal ok, I just carefully screwed a self tapper into the old seal (Not too far), and pulled it out. That sleeve is tapered which I took to help installing the new seal, it pushed in fine with thumb pressure
2016 Tiger Sport

bemusedinsojo

Quote from: Timbox2 on April 24, 2017, 05:34:03 PM
Dont know about shifter fork, but regards the output shaft seal, when I did the seal on the Girly last year I also couldnt remove the sleeve but still replaced the seal ok, I just carefully screwed a self tapper into the old seal (Not too far), and pulled it out. That sleeve is tapered which I took to help installing the new seal, it pushed in fine with thumb pressure
Thanks for that suggestion, Timbox2. I screwed it in, the pulled it out by the screw head. A very simple, yet very effective solution. However, when I pull out the seal there was another behind it, which I wasn't expecting and so didn't order one. Should I remove the back one also? And same way, with a screw? (did I mention I loved this method?)

bemusedinsojo

Does anyone know if the rod is solid? I'm thinking of drilling just enough to screw in an easy out or a self tapping screw to pull it out. The glue trick didn't work. I didn't use jb weld because in afraid of it dripping and glueing the entire rod to the case. Man that was dumb of me. 

Timbox2

Quote from: bemusedinsojo on April 24, 2017, 11:31:19 PM
Thanks for that suggestion, Timbox2. I screwed it in, the pulled it out by the screw head. A very simple, yet very effective solution. However, when I pull out the seal there was another behind it, which I wasn't expecting and so didn't order one. Should I remove the back one also? And same way, with a screw? (did I mention I loved this method?)

STOP, STOP, DO NOT TOUCH THAT OTHER SEAL, ITS PART OF THE BEARING!!!!! Hence why you have to be careful not going to far with the screw :icon_wink:
2016 Tiger Sport

bemusedinsojo

Quote from: Timbox2 on April 25, 2017, 09:10:50 PM
STOP, STOP, DO NOT TOUCH THAT OTHER SEAL, ITS PART OF THE BEARING!!!!! Hence why you have to be careful not going to far with the screw :icon_wink:
Ok, no touchy.  :^_^

Tomcat61

Just a thought, if you have a MIG welding machine, it's possible to stick the wire to the end of the rod and then pull it out.  Remember to disconnect bike's battery before welding.  As I haven't tried this in similar situation, I don't take any responsibility of any damage.   :wave

Steamer 1998 British Racing Green

London_Phil

Possibly disconnect the ECU as well, if yo go down the welding route, which may be the best option anyway.

Spares are hard to come by at a good price  :icon_wink: :icon_wink:

bemusedinsojo

All attempts to pull my rod from casing didn't work so I'm going to pull the engine. Any hints? :icon_frown:

London_Phil

Can it not be accessed by just dropping sump?

bemusedinsojo

Quote from: London_Phil on April 29, 2017, 05:47:43 PM
Can it not be accessed by just dropping sump?
I'm show my stupidity here but what is dropping sump?

London_Phil

The plate covering the bottom of the engine, into which the oil filter fits.
"Dropping" is slang for taking off in a professional and controlled manner......
It may be you can remove it and reach the shaft from there, without "dropping" the  engine.
It's removable, but it may be 90% of removing the  engine to access it, so I'm honestly not sure its a great gain.
I've never done it on a Steamer, but I suspect there are some opinions out there.
You've got the pdf of the workshop manual yes?

bemusedinsojo

Sorry Phil I searched the manual and realized what it was (we call it something different). The I don't know if I can access the shifter fork from below. Does anyone know if I can access the shift fork from underneath?