How To Remove Your Tank

[Stretch]

You're working around gasoline here, so extinguish open-flame heaters, pilot lights, etc. Don't smoke, and keep smokers out of the work area until your done, lest they breeze in and absentmindedly light up. Just a single gasoline vapor explosion will ruin your whole day.

This is a heck of a lot easier when the tank is empty, and you're not fighting against the weight of six gallons (about 24 liters) of fuel (about 40 pounds / 18.2 kilos).

If you have pullback handlebar risers, remove the handlebars (leave the cables, etc. connected and swing it up out of the way) and risers to make room for lifting the tank.  You won't have room otherwise, and you'll scratch the tank to hell and gone trying to get it off.  Don't ask me how I know.  

First, remove the seats.

Then disconnect and remove the battery.

Remove the black plastic side panels on either side of the tank (5mm hex).


Once loose, gently pull the panels rearward to unhook them from under the tank.  Don't pull them outward, or you'll break off the hooks.


In addition to two T-30 Torx bolts, the left one is also held in place with a rubber grommet.  Be gentle, pulling straight outward (just a bit, right at the grommet) to unplug the panel from the grommet, then rearward to unhook the front edge from under the tank.


Remove the battery box by removing the T-30 Torx bolts shown, and the 10mm bolt at the bottom...


When the battery box is loose, unclip the main fuse from the left side of the battery box.


Remove the front turn signal panels...



And using a special home-grown tool, a T-30 bit (5mm hex will work also) in a 1/4-inch combination wrench...



Remove the upper tank-mount bolt (4mm hex).  NOTE:  If you have Up-and-Back bar risers (like I do), remove them completely (like I didn't), or you won't have enought room between the tank and the risers to get the tank off without scratching the hell out of it (like I did).


Remove the lower tank-mount bolt (T-30 and extensions).


Unplug the vent hoses from the left side of the tank.  Note that the vent hose with the black plastic one-way valve is on the inboard tank connection...


Unplug the fuel pump electric connection.  This photo is of my later 2005,  engine numbers 207447 and up...


Very early 2005 and older models look like this (up to engine number 207446)...


Unplug the fuel gauge electrical connection...


Squeeze the sides of the fuel fitting to unlock it, and gently pull down to unplug it.  (Previous year models have two fittings, one for pressure and one for return.  Mark them to avoid confusion during reassembly)


G-e-n-t-l-y slide the tank forward and lift upward from the rear.  Have a large open area to lay the tank on, as it's quite a bit larger than it initially seems.  Lay a couple old towels or similar padding down first, as the front lobes of the tank will contact whatever you lay it on.

During reassembly, it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a dab of dielectric grease into all the electrical connectors, to keep power-robbing corrosion at bay.

[REGULATOR]

I had the front off mine the other day,  but I noticed on my tank at the bottom front of the fairing where it comes near the turnsignals and nose pices there is a set of grommets, but nothing attached?

[Stretch]

Mine too.  It's just padding, I think, to keep things from rattling against each other.

[HockleyBoy]

Stretch,

These how to guides are great, especially for us not too competent mechanics, they definitely need a sticky.

[swamper650]

Thanks a bunch for the pictures, Stretch. I have been afraid to pull the tank....now it is no longer an unknown.

[Stretch]

These how to guides are great, especially for us not too competent mechanics, they definitely need a sticky.

Links to all these threads are posted in the stickied Girly Wisdom thread.

[HockleyBoy]

[Links to all these threads are posted in the stickied Girly Wisdom thread.

Sorry, missed that

[EvilBetty]

A bolt in the 9th picture (5mm Hex) is stripped out.

Any suggestions on how to get it out?

And the bolt at the bottom of my battery tray appears to be Torx.  Is it T-30 as well?

[Stretch]

The bolt at the bottom of my battery tray is not original.  I should have said so, sorry.  Just about all the Torx bolts on a Girly are T-30 (with the exception of the engine mount bolts, which are T-55), so it's most likely that your original battery box bolt is T-30 as well.

The bolt threads are stripped, or the inside of the hex socket?  If it's just the inside of the hex socket, small vise-grips may be able to grasp the head of the bolt.

[EvilBetty]

Yeah the Allen head is stripped.

I'll try vise grips, but there is a rubber washer or something that makes the bolt head sort of inset.

Next I guess will be to try to Dremel a slot in it and use a stubby flat head screw driver.

[Stretch]

That'd work.  A bit labor-intensive, but vise-grips always slip and pinch the crap out of my fingers.

[EvilBetty]

I got it out but not how I would have liked.

Vise grips would not get a hold of it, so I broke out the dremel.  The head was so soft and the chewed out 5mm area so large, that once I got the stubby flat head on it, it too stripped out.

I decided to cut off the sides of the head to improve the vise grip's hold, but that too didn't help.  I popped in a grinder bit and attempted to grind the head off, but I wore out the grinding bit before the head was completely free.  So again with the vise grips I tried to twist was was left of the head of.  Suddenly the bolt started to turn so I turned and turned the head but it wasn't backing out.  I realized the the insert in the signal assembly must be turning from the heat, and when I grabbed it, it feel free.

Better that than the tank I guess.  Maybe I'll be able to get the screw free with vise grips on both sides and epoxy the insert back in...

[ourade]

I have just removed and refitted my tank due to a water leak from a loose hose clip, the guide saved me a lot of time and effort. :D
Cheers Ade.

[Stretch]

Well, good!  Happy to be of service.  

[EvilBetty]

Ok, what am I doing wrong.  I can't get it in the hole!  :shock:



Everything else is lined up.  I've pulled the tank off and sat it back on three times but it always lines up the same.

The threads are goofed up as well.  I've never "cleaned" up threads before.  what's the process?  Or is that thread replaceable from underneath?