Now to put it all back together

[Madruss]

I had only ridden this steamer for a test ride & a 50klm lap around where I live a couple of months ago.
To start, I found a bent righthand footpeg. So deciding to remove it & straighten the offending item, I discover the broken lower rear engine mounts.
Once the strip down commenced to remove the engine on one of these beasts you can open a can of worms.
2. The forks showed an accumulation of dust around the gaiters, so there's a reseal job. Off to see Jim.
3. Removing the fairings, a screw/bolt attaching the fairing onto the fuel tank (Right Rear) failed to undo, hence slight "butcher job" to remove it, now the retaining plug turns, fuel tank leaks. So along with a couple of pieces of cracked fairing, off we go to a plastic welder in Toowoomba.
4. The instrument tube/bracket was broken. Found a handy young bloke who was good with TIG welder who repaired the item.
5. I was referred to a bloke who was just setting up his workshop 5klm from the regionally local (75klm away) bike shop (Jim) who specialised in Triumphs of all eras. 4 weeks later I had a message back the engine mounts were done. Thanks Marco
 

[ssevy]

I had my tank welded with a special machine at a body shop, and it did not hold, as they used the wrong material.
I had it done a second time, and I believe it was nylon that they used, and it is still going strong.
I think I have a thread on here somewhere with the details?


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[Madruss]

Don't know why my photo's came in sideways, the magnetic poles must  be shifting

[Sin_Tiger]

This is looking like an interesting thread that we might learn a few things from. The engine mounts I've not seen before and it looks like a pretty good job in your other photos. You're lucky to have people with the skills to get the job done so close to you.

Don't worry we'll just  have a lie down to look at the photos, EXIF is something of a mystery 

[Madruss]

The engine mount bolts-- do the washer fit between the frame mounts & engine lower rear? Cant find any exploded diagrams anywhere

[Sin_Tiger]

Flat washers go on the inside of the frame or engine plate as the fitted bolts are flanged Torx socket head. If memory serves me correctly the bolts are 10 12 x 1.25 thread (fine) so if they're badly rusted and you're replacing them or they're missing / chewed up, make sure you get a proper locking nut with the correct thread.

Correction above, my head is full of brake caliper sizes at the moment, that's what spending hours scraping salt out of caliper grooves does to your brain cells 

[Sin_Tiger]

Try the World of Triumph spares section.

This might help:- https://www.worldoftriumph.com/collections/100058905-0-2?type=tiger-885-carbs-upto-vin-71698

[Madruss]

I had a look at the image but just shows parts, not where they fit precisely. I've measured the frame mounts & the engine mounts. They're a tight fit so it looks like a pain to reinstall 

[Madruss]

Went to Total Tools today, purchased a 12mm hex head socket to loosen the swingarm bolts. Amazingly gave enough slop/movement to jiggle the engine back into place & throw a few bolts in. 
Next thing to do is fit the the spacer washers, withdrawing one bolt at a time 

[Sin_Tiger]

You're not going to like me  but given what you're doing and the bike history in addition to your local conditions. I'd strongly recommend removing the swing arm when you're at this stage.

Two reasons, it's a lot easier to replace the chain rubbing strip with the swing arm off but most importantly the swing arm pivot bearings are the only bearings you cannot grease in situ, it has to come off and there's a good chance therefore that the grease will be the original.

If you go for it, take the pillion foot pegs off to give yourself better working access. Most importantly, pay very close attention to refitting the steel cups with seals correctly to prevent folding the seals over, do not just push them straight on, fit them over the spigot end at a slight angle with pressure on one side and the other side will just fall over.

Hold everything in place with a cable tie through each side until you've got the cups engaged between the supports before removing them.

[Madruss]

I hear you but parts are 6-12 months or more wait down here. Bike has under 60k, not miles on the clock and the amount I'll get to ride it in these "Covid" restrictions, I'll take the risk & it'll go back together as is.
I ordered inlet rubbers ages ago, no sign of them. Backorder parts were 6 months behind delivery at the start of the "chinese pox" (Biological warfare) but that's another subject. So parts are another 12 months behind.

[Madruss]

The chain slider is fine

[Sin_Tiger]

I feel your pain but what I can't understand is why I can get stuff delivered in the UK from our "Communist Chums" in less than a week 

Worth having a look at Trevor's offerings https://www.triumphparts.co.uk/ if you haven't already, competitive price and posts out very promptly.

[Beernard]

Gday Madruss.
I'm down near Port Macquarie and don't have much helpful, accurate or useful advice. I just want to congratulate you on your solution to the question "How to swing a Steamer?". I have had some pretty wild versions myself!
You are in quite deep. Good on ya and all the best.
Regards, Bern.

[Bixxer Bob]

Glad you're taking your time with the washers.  It's important to shim the gap between the engine and the frame mounting lugs correctly otherwise tightening the bolts stresses the lugs and can lead to cracks and failure (which I've seen on a couple of race bikes recently).

As for there being room to jiggle it around - there's a need to support and align the engine correctly and tighten engine bolts with care on the later 955s or you get vibrations.  IT may apply to Steamers too because I've just read the crash bar installation instructions for my Explorer and it even goes into doing swing arm adjustment afterwards.  That may, of course, be because of the shaft drive, but it's worth bearing in mind.