I'm at my wits end,
it would be great if anyone could shed some light on my Poor running problem,
Bike starts ok, key in ignition and turn on, pull clutch lever in and push start button, bike fires up, revs go up to about 1500rpm for about 3-4 seconds then drops to below 1000rpm for 3-4 seconds and then cuts out, to start the bike again I have to open the throttle and keep it open otherwise it will just cut out, and I have to keep it open for a good 5 mins before I can let go and the bike runs by its self and then its sounds like its not firing on all three properly, more like 2 1/2.
Because of the persistent problem I have changed
Loom
coils
spark plugs
air filter
and today the IACV
Because of this problem the fuel consumption is awful 100 miles = 20 litres , yes there is a sidecar to TIC, but when it runs right I can nearly double the mileage.
Plugging the Triumph diagnostic tool shows 1 DTC PO463 which is fuel sensor high input, I clear this and re-upload the aftermarket tune start the bike and it runs better.....until the next day when I try to start it and im back to square one.
Im really left scratching my head here and cannot fathom it out, does anyone else know of these symptoms or can point me in the right direction or has ideas what going on?
cheers
when you say u changed the coils and spark plugs did u also change the plug caps,most of my bike experience is dirt bikes and the plug caps are notorious for breaking down and running rough just a thought
Quote from: exchead on February 16, 2014, 03:23:57 PM
when you say u changed the coils and spark plugs did u also change the plug caps,most of my bike experience is dirt bikes and the plug caps are notorious for breaking down and running rough just a thought
Its all in one mate :icon_wink:
Going off what you have put the first thing I'd do is change the lamba,my interpretation of your post the diagnostic is telling you and you deleting and ignoring it or is my assumption wrong? or did you change the lamba with the loom :icon_scratch:
I haven't changed the lambda sensor, as for ignoring what the diagnostic tool is telling me I guess I am....but how can I address the fuel sensor high input, and what does it mean?
There's war and piece on the net about running a bike without a lamba full stop disconnect it and see what happens but alternatively it's the first thing I'd be changing
And they are cheap on ebay if you're happy to cut and join the connector wires.
I'll have a look at that fault code in a minute, but - assuming the lambda is ok - I'd be checking the battery voltage. Because it runs ok at first after a tune reload, it sounds to me as though the the ECU isn't able to save the trim values to memory when you turn the ign off. I've written about this before and (from memory anyway) it needs at least 12.5 volts to be able to write, so the battery voltage with the engine off has to be 12.5v or better. Check the voltage across the battery with the ign on but the engine not running.
I had similar problems this summer, even with a new battery, which I never totally fixed until I fitted a new mosfet regulator. I found the same as Chris, the bike instantly ran heaps better without doing anything else too it.
Ok all noted,
throw into the mix that its running really rich, and especially on number 1(2 and 3 are fine), im going to look at the Oxygen sensor (if I can find it), change the battery and fuel pipe O rings.
Ok, the fuel sensor code isn't covered in the manual. I think it relates to the fuel sender in the tank but will have to do more reading. What it doesn't do is relate to the Lambada, it has it's own set of fault codes.
The manual points to the IACV for the symptoms you describe. Cycle it with TuneECU to check the new one is working ok and that the pipes don't have any cracks, leaks and are not blocked. You DID reset the closed throttle position when you reloaded the tune didn't you? Did you follow the procedure properly? (It matters. A lot.)
Just read your last post; are the throttle bodies balanced spot on?
Ah, if it's stupidly rich, enough to double your consumption, but only on one pot, I'd be checking for a stuck injector (although the running ok after a reload still points to trim storing). If it's rich on all three but worst on one then I think TB balance plus something telling the ECU it needs more fuel than it actually does which points to a baro sensor / air temp sensor / engine temp fault.
Take it a step at a time:
Battery first cos it's easy to do.
Re-check IACV, hoses etc to make sure.
Check TB balance.
If it's still doing it, swap injector 1 for 2 or 3 and see if the richness follows it. If it does, you have a bad injector.
Good luck, and don't forget the throttle position reset.
I've checked the pipes for cracks and splits
QuoteCycle it with TuneECU to check the new one is working ok
how do I do this?
QuoteYou DID reset the closed throttle position when you reloaded the tune didn't you? Did you follow the procedure properly? (It matters. A lot.)
I followed the procedure with the Actia, is this what you mean?
I'm not familiar with Actia mate. In TuneECU (free to download and I would guess your Actia cable will work with it if it's USB) there's a button to click which resets the throttle position. With the engine warmed up and off, Turn ign on, click the reset TPS button, start engine, allow to idle for at least 30 secs.
Also, it's worth doing an "adaptation". Here's how as taken from the TECU manual:
Bike in neutral
Engine temp 80-96 deg C
Min airbox temp 21 deg C
Pull in the clutch and blip the revs to 3000 revs and let it drop back to idle then letcit idle for at least 30 seconds still with the clutch pulled.
Check it's adapted by looking at the lambda reading, it should be toggling + / - 4
IACV steps should be 20-35.
Bugger, I just noticed it's an 03. You have a MC1000 ECU? (Two plugs....)
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 07:24:27 PM
And they are cheap on ebay if you're happy to cut and join the connector wires.
Mine is like all the others I've got unscrew out the pipe and unplug out of the loom or are we getting our lamba's crossed!!
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 11:22:31 PM
Bugger, I just noticed it's an 03. You have a MC1000 ECU? (Two plugs....)
Yeah,
two plugs, Ive looked at the Tune ECU site but am a bit unsure as to what to download :icon_redface: :icon_scratch:, I have found the tune for my bike and saved it to my Downloads , but is there anything else I should download ?.
I also just bought one of these http://www.lonelec.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=32
Valve clearances, followed by TPS reset(Tuneecu), followed by reset adaptions(Tuneecu), followed by check tickover speed setting(Tuneecu) (shouldn't have changed), followed by throttle body balance (you'll need vacuum gauges). With the airbox off look at the Idle Control Valve to see if it moves when you blip the throttle. And check the hoses going to and from the ICV for cracks and connection.
Basically give it a top end 12K service.
Quote from: Chris Canning on February 17, 2014, 11:54:05 AM
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 07:24:27 PM
And they are cheap on ebay if you're happy to cut and join the connector wires.
Mine is like all the others I've got unscrew out the pipe and unplug out of the loom or are we getting our lamba's crossed!!
I think you might be :augie you can run without a Lambda, you just need to tell the ECU your running in open loop. I do this on my Thruxton.
Back OT, if it's going through fuel like that it has to be absolutely stinking at the back end and the only way it can get in there is through the injectors. Was this sudden or gradual?
I think BB is on the right track though, no sense in trying to second guess, methodical is the way.
Quote from: blacktiger on February 17, 2014, 07:37:10 PM
Valve clearances, followed by TPS reset(Tuneecu), followed by reset adaptions(Tuneecu), followed by check tickover speed setting(Tuneecu) (shouldn't have changed), followed by throttle body balance (you'll need vacuum gauges). With the airbox off look at the Idle Control Valve to see if it moves when you blip the throttle. And check the hoses going to and from the ICV for cracks and connection.
Basically give it a top end 12K service.
Valve clearances have been checked, indeed it was the first thing I did, the Tune ECU stuff I will do once I get my head around what I need to download, I have vacuum gauges but need the extra long hoses and fuel pump connector to actually balance the bodies, IACV has been checked for cracks etc.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 17, 2014, 08:11:33 PM
I think you might be :augie you can run without a Lambda, you just need to tell the ECU your running in open loop. I do this on my Thruxton.
Back OT, if it's going through fuel like that it has to be absolutely stinking at the back end and the only way it can get in there is through the injectors. Was this sudden or gradual?
I think BB is on the right track though, no sense in trying to second guess, methodical is the way.
It is stinking at the back and happened all of a sudden :icon_scratch:
Going out on a limb here but my guess is it's electrical rather than the injectors themselves, they rarely go off suddenly.
Quote from: chairhead on February 17, 2014, 05:52:28 PM
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 11:22:31 PM
Bugger, I just noticed it's an 03. You have a MC1000 ECU? (Two plugs....)
Yeah,
two plugs, Ive looked at the Tune ECU site but am a bit unsure as to what to download :icon_redface: :icon_scratch:, I have found the tune for my bike and saved it to my Downloads , but is there anything else I should download ?.
I also just bought one of these http://www.lonelec.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=32
Just download the latest version of TuneECU here: http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/links.html
Install it, plug into the bike with the lead you just bought (a good spare battery jumped to the bike battery will ensure you have enough volts to proceed successfully. 12.5vminimum remember) and establish the connection.
Do the IACV check. (Listen for it moving up and down).
Save your map to your laptop, then blow in the fresh map. Start it up and let it warm up, do the adaptation I described earlier, then do the TPS reset. At this point it should at least be ticking over even if a bit lumpy. Now you can balance the throttle bodies.
If you can't get this far, my money is still on a sticky injector. I agree with Sin that they rarely go wrong and even then only gradually, but if it's sticking open for some reason that would give you the horribly rich problem. I have come across one instance of this in the past but I think it was on the RAT site. Swapping them round is fairly straight forward and will instantly give you a result, one way or another.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 17, 2014, 08:42:42 PM
Going out on a limb here but my guess is it's electrical rather than the injectors themselves, they rarely go off suddenly.
That's why I changed the loom, but to my frustration the problem persists, but with help from you guys we shall overcome :icon_lol:
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 17, 2014, 09:25:36 PM
Quote from: chairhead on February 17, 2014, 05:52:28 PM
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 11:22:31 PM
Bugger, I just noticed it's an 03. You have a MC1000 ECU? (Two plugs....)
Yeah,
two plugs, Ive looked at the Tune ECU site but am a bit unsure as to what to download :icon_redface: :icon_scratch:, I have found the tune for my bike and saved it to my Downloads , but is there anything else I should download ?.
I also just bought one of these http://www.lonelec.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=32
Just download the latest version of TuneECU here: http://www.tuneecu.com/TuneECU_En/links.html
Install it, plug into the bike with the lead you just bought (a good spare battery jumped to the bike battery will ensure you have enough volts to proceed successfully. 12.5vminimum remember) and establish the connection.
Do the IACV check. (Listen for it moving up and down).
Save your map to your laptop, then blow in the fresh map. Start it up and let it warm up, do the adaptation I described earlier, then do the TPS reset. At this point it should at least be ticking over even if a bit lumpy. Now you can balance the throttle bodies.
If you can't get this far, my money is still on a sticky injector. I agree with Sin that they rarely go wrong and even then only gradually, but if it's sticking open for some reason that would give you the horribly rich problem. I have come across one instance of this in the past but I think it was on the RAT site. Swapping them round is fairly straight forward and will instantly give you a result, one way or another.
Thanks Mate, I will swap them round and see what happens, thinking about it im sure they were running all the same whilst I had the Actia plugged in, but it wont hurt to change them.
Hmm, if they were all running ok when you used the Activia, it's unlikely that they are the problem then. They don't generally show as intermittent faults.
I did a bit more reading tonight, and it seems that some types of FI will run horribly rich if the engine temp sensor is knackered. Without it the ECU can't tell the engine is up to temp and so sticks to the warm up map (equivalent to running with the choke out all the time). I think I mentioned this earlier, however, you'd expect to get fault code P0119. Do you have a copy of the Triumph manual? If so you need to do the checks on page 9.60.
Quote from: Sin_Tiger on February 17, 2014, 08:42:42 PM
Going out on a limb here but my guess is it's electrical rather than the injectors themselves, they rarely go off suddenly.
Me too the fact it runs on start up,and hence why I'd want to disconnect the lamba I know guys who have run bikes with the lamba out for years,it's just a process of elimination I'd be looking at mapping when all else fails,because the way start up is described is normal and how mine is,so there's a lot that's right!!!
Something is either pissing fuel into the motor like an injector or it's(ecu)is being told to piss fuel into the motor,I've known maps change but not go belly up like that.
Also if you go through the process of start up ie high revs then it settles,turn it off before it stops switch it off and try again to see if it'll start Ok like the first time,even though mine has been pretty good over the years an exact science it ain't and even now sometimes it'll start up like a bag of spanners and I'll switch it off and start again,I realise yours is more than that but you need a starting point.
I'm not suggesting it's mapping Chris, except if the battery voltage is low and buggering up the trims. But that's an easy first check.
If you look again, you'll see I'm on about checking the engine temp sensor. The bike always starts by add the values from the enrichment map to the fuel map which is the same as having the choke out on carbs. In a few seconds the revs settle down as the ECU works out where it is having read all the sensors. It then monitors the engine temp as that comes up. As it rises the values in the enrichment map get smaller until at full temp the added value is zero.
If the engine temp sensor is knackered it'll start ok but will overfuel as it gets warm because the ECU thinks the engine is still cold. However, that woukd make all three pots rich but this scenario it's only one pot so there could be two faults. As you rightly say, process of elimination and easy stuff first.
Another thread and at the risk of everyone rushing out and buying a R/R certainly worth a thought sadly the day after fitting to the bike it has been short of a shock so I'll comment more if I ever get to ride it again but it certainly pepped the bike up.
Agreed, that's why I thought reg rec at the top of this post, it pepped up yours and fixed mine when I had issues similar to CH last summer (would fire up but wouldn't tick over and ran really rough - eventually blamed low volts and inability to store trims when turning off) but he's got the added issue of one really rich pot which ordinarily would point to a stuck injector. Thinking about it, even if the reg rec is borderline, a really good car battery jumped across the bike battery woukd give enough volts long enough to prove this one way or another. If it starts and runs, even lumpy, as soon as it's warm do an adaptation to sort the trims then switch off. Let it store the trims (you'll hear a click from the relay when it's done, about 5 secs after turning off). If it runs better when next started we're on the right path.
With it being as rough as it is, the adaptation might need several cycles. After warm up and pulling the clutch, blip to 3000 revs, let drop to tickover, wait 30 secs, blip throttle to 3000 revs, let it drop and so on..... keeping the clutch pulled the whole time.
I appreciate all your comments and advice guys,
I went to the bike yesterday and checked the Battery voltage, it is low and its now on charge, Im waiting for the new to arrive.
Before id finished for the day I noticed fluid under the bike, it was petrol, with all that's been going on the tank has been off and on numerous occasions,
I thought I'd damaged the O ring on the top fuel pipe so I changed it with one on the 04 I bought, but even after that its not sealing properly, as soon as I switch the ignition on it pisses out, so I think im going to have to change the female fuel coupling too...........Im slowly losing the will to live :icon_frown: :icon_wink:
Looked for the plus's do you still have the original females :icon_eek:,I don't do health and safety if I did I wouldn't ride a bike but HTF Triumph have got away with the plastic females on the early Tigers I've no idea or more to the point no recall and how no one has ever been killed!!!
They are plastic with metal securing clips, I've taken what I believe to be the faulty one out and just ordered new, the male counter parts are Aluminium.
:kboom :BangHead hang in there pal, you're getting somewhere. It might not be as bad as you first thought, fix the leak, whack a big battery on and follow BB's advice, I see a light at the end of the tunnel and most of the trains are on frozen points or flooded lines so it's less likely to be a train :icon_lol:
Quote from: chairhead on February 18, 2014, 04:55:14 PM
They are plastic with metal securing clips, I've taken what I believe to be the faulty one out and just ordered new, the male counter parts are Aluminium.
STOPPPPPP cancel the order I did the same the originals cost me more than the stainless,in the end bit the bullet bought the stainless and sold the original new one's for a tenner a piece their a bloody death trap and for heaven sake change both,apart from falling off a bike the only other thing that has put the fear of god into me is having one of the females shear off 5 miles outside Dover and going from thinking the fluid on my boots was from the rad to F me it's petrol and I've got a full tank and thinking this could go boom at any second.
The alu male will be fine you don't need the poncy stainless version.
Oh and what I forgot I've a spare R/R that I know is good and an 02 plug that may or may not help,I'm happy to post if you send e'm when your finished.
I know I sound all mother hen but their F*****g liability and Triumph should have done a recall years ago.
:icon_lol: Too late,
im quite happy to use them Chris, they've been on the bike for 14 years now without a problem and for all I know it could be me being hand fisted with the O rings.
I think its sucks that the bike without these is next to useless,( what's wrong with a hose and clips?) and that they are so expensive :bug_eye
Very rare I'm lost for words :icon_eek:
Meanwhile, back on topic, the new battery will make a difference but you'll probably still have to do an adaptation, we'll see. I'm not so sure it'll fix your rich running number one pot but you never know till you try eh? Fingers crossed :nod
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 18, 2014, 11:50:54 PM
Meanwhile, back on topic, the new battery will make a difference but you'll probably still have to do an adaptation, we'll see. I'm not so sure it'll fix your rich running number one pot but you never know till you try eh? Fingers crossed :nod
Fingers crossed mate :icon_lol: and everything else! :icon_lol: :icon_salut:
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 16, 2014, 08:21:04 PM
Ah, if it's stupidly rich, enough to double your consumption, but only on one pot, I'd be checking for a stuck injector
If it does, you have a bad injector.
:nod
Any update mate?? Have you sorted it yet????
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on February 25, 2014, 02:30:48 PM
Any update mate?? Have you sorted it yet????
The new battery is on, as is the new fuel coupling and O rings with no leakage im happy to report, I tried running the bike with the Lambda sensor unplugged and it was really rough, it runs so much better with it plugged in, it is however still the same and runs with the same DTC as before.
I have a second ECU which I've used recently in the past and thought id give it a whirl with tuneECU plugged in, it too ran the same but showed a couple more DTC's than the Triumph Actia ever did, and those where both injector number one related :icon_rolleyes: , so im waiting for a set of injectors to arrive £25 posted, I should get those tomorrow.
Weather permitting I can get down to the garage and crack on, I would have taken them from the 04 Tiger I have(like the fuel O rings and the fuel relay and the tilt switch) but I just haven't got the room to have both bikes in bits in an unpowered crammed garage, I need a bigger man cave :icon_mrgreen:
Oh and I need to read up on TuneECU, after using the Actia for so many years im not too sure what im really doing ATM :icon_study:
Standing by :new_popcornsmiley
Oh well.........
its not the injectors, after replacing all of them the bike still runs the same :icon_confused: ,
I shall have another fondle tomorrow and see what happens :icon_rolleyes:
I'd have a go at BB suggestion of the temp sender being up the swanney
Plug in the Activa or TUNEECU and find the engine temp value. It should be whatever the air temp in your shed is. Now start the bike. The temp should rise as the engine warms up. If it doesn't the sensor needs changing.
If the sensor is good, and assuming you now have the new battery fitted, what is Activa showing the voltage across the battery with the engine running to be? You should have around 14.5v but anything over 13v is ok (Ish).
If it's low you need to consider a mosfet reg/rec. I still need to understand that fault code though. Can you list all the codes you found please?
Ok,
in the garage as I type, the temp is going up as I started the bike, the battery voltage is bang on.
Edit; I've just reset the TPS, this is the first time im able to, (strange I know) it was and has been on 4 all the times I've used T/ecu, turned the bike on after doing the 12 min tune thing and it runs fine :icon_eek: , the only DTC being the fuel sender which isn't plugged in so im not worried about that, im going to let it get cold and come and start it again just to see what happens, so back in a few hours :icon_scratch:
All seems to fine :augie ,im not gunna hold my breath though :icon_lol: , again thanks one and all for your input, Bixxer a special thanks to you :bowdown
Glad it's sorted mate. And regarding the 12 min tune; that process is for the pre- lambda bikes. The bikes with lambda can do the Adaptation which is quicker to do.
Just out of curiosity how does the TPS go out of sync?, and should it be on zero at all times?
Only guessing, but there's a couple of ways I think. Setting the TPS calibrates the voltage from the sensor at the closed position and calls that zero. If the voltage it sees later differs, then the ECU will think that zero is in a different position. Voltage variation can be bad connections, bad battery or bad reg rec.
Once set it should read zero on closed throttle and about 70% on fully open.
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on March 04, 2014, 10:29:28 AM
Only guessing, but there's a couple of ways I think. Setting the TPS calibrates the voltage from the sensor at the closed position and calls that zero. If the voltage it sees later differs, then the ECU will think that zero is in a different position. Voltage variation can be bad connections, bad battery or bad reg rec.
Once set it should read zero on closed throttle and about 70% on fully open.
Ok,
It may be that my old loom was the possible cause, thinking back to the problems I've had and the parte I've replaced im just glad its sorted now fingers crossed :icon_biggrin:
I think it'll still be worthwhile going over all the connectors when you get the opportunity. If it's a similar aged loom to your original it will probably be only marginally better.
I got a few minutes to have a look at mine today. Its had a tendency to die while ticking over at junctions for its last few outings. I first tried the 12 min tune only to find the engine wouldn't warm up enough to get the fan going, so binned that idea. Rest the trims with the Tuneboy button. That worked. The went on to reset the TPS despite it already reading zero and 0.59volts. BIG MISTAKE :bug_eye
It started doing exactly as Chairhead described. Bugger I thought, and needed a jumper battery to get it to fire up at all. It did catch, but wouldn't tick over so couldn't register the new throttle position. :BangHead :BangHead :BangHead
Eventually, after starting it and holding the throttle at about 3000 rpm for 20 seconds or so it reluctantly settled to a very lumpy idle. A second reset of the TPS eventually sorted it. I then did the Adaptation three or four times but noticed the O2 voltage wasn't swinging, it was a steady 0.46v. A quick look at the fault codes revealed that the Lambda sensor heater voltage is suspect so next job is to fix that.
In the mean time, used it for a 60 mile round trip to a road safety meeting in Norwich tonight and it ran well, including idling at traffic lights so I'll now leave the TPS well alone. It might be that I shouldn't fix the Lambda :icon_scratch:
Quote from: Bixxer Bob on March 06, 2014, 11:31:44 PM
I got a few minutes to have a look at mine today. Its had a tendency to die while ticking over at junctions for its last few outings. I first tried the 12 min tune only to find the engine wouldn't warm up enough to get the fan going, so binned that idea. Rest the trims with the Tuneboy button. That worked. The went on to reset the TPS despite it already reading zero and 0.59volts. BIG MISTAKE :bug_eye
It started doing exactly as Chairhead described. Bugger I thought, and needed a jumper battery to get it to fire up at all. It did catch, but wouldn't tick over so couldn't register the new throttle position. :BangHead :BangHead :BangHead
Eventually, after starting it and holding the throttle at about 3000 rpm for 20 seconds or so it reluctantly settled to a very lumpy idle. A second reset of the TPS eventually sorted it. I then did the Adaptation three or four times but noticed the O2 voltage wasn't swinging, it was a steady 0.46v. A quick look at the fault codes revealed that the Lambda sensor heater voltage is suspect so next job is to fix that.
In the mean time, used it for a 60 mile round trip to a road safety meeting in Norwich tonight and it ran well, including idling at traffic lights so I'll now leave the TPS well alone. It might be that I shouldn't fix the Lambda :icon_scratch:
Oh Man!!!,
welcome to my world :icon_lol: , I hope what we've had isn't catching :icon_eek: :icon_wink:
BB
If you can't get the fan on then there's something amiss,I fired mine up for the first time the other day,I did what I've done for the last 13 years during the winter started it,revved it a couple of times and then it just settles into a steady tickover(and always has done) and takes around 10 minutes or less for the fan to kick in,another couple of revs and turn it off,although this latest map has a tendency to pop just a tad as the revs drop before it goes to tick over and that has decreased a lot from when I had it blown in last year.
We've had this conversation before,but these Tigers do not hold a map(tune) well something I have never come across on any other bike,but for me that's a plus!!,the last map I had blown in before I went to Spain was fine for riding around the block and I regretted having it done,but 2/3000 miles it's settled down and has gone a lot flatter which is better for long distance travel all of which you can only put down to the Sagem system :icon_scratch: and no wonder Triumph turned to the Japs for a solution.
Yours settling down Chris, means it's trimming itself properly and everything is working as it should. My Lambda isn't working so it's not trimming itself. I have a spare though so an easy fix.
Yes but what I'm getting at,that's not as it was in the first place,ie the map you have blown in doesn't exist 12 months down the line because the bike is doing it's own thing,I've 3 other fuel injected bikes and they certainly don't do that you have a map and it stays that way.
It much depends on the makers settings within the ECU, most modern bikes running with Lambda sensors are running in closed loop and as such will adjust the trim tables dynamically. So either that feature is disabled or the conditions haven't varied outwith the parameter limits for the tables to be adjusted.
Triumph dumped the Sagem and went with Keihin on the 1050 says it all really.
:nod