YAPI - noobie

[rybes]

thats a tidy n clean lookin engine :D well done mate :D

[BruKen]

:oops: Well I am going to eat crow on the liners then .......I could have sworn that the center liner was different other than the bore being larger . but I have no open motors to look at and I don't have the liners anymore from a blown engine , so it will be as Jetdocx said the center one is a bigger diameter .

Open mouth......... insert foot  
sucks to get old ............suffering from CRS ........can't remember shit  

I am not saying you are wrong. That would take a brave fella to argue the toss with your expertise. The book of words says this year there is a green paint dot, that year there is a letter B, the next year some other lettering. Seems to me triumph used what ever was on the shelf. As for the middle liner being bigger, this may be true. I know the piston is smaller than the outer two. I presume there are cooling issues on the middle cylinder.

[BruKen]

thats a tidy n clean lookin engine :D well done mate :D

Thank you. I think I made a mistake using gloss though, but my consolation is whatever I have done, it is now better that what it was when I started, cleaner and tidier but not perfect by a long shot. If I had money I'd have sent it to be powder coated. But I am trying to keep the restore within the bike's value this time. Replacing the wheels is going to hurt.

[MIMbox]

How did you get on with removing the old exhaust studs?
They looked like mine on the before pictures!
Will you use stainless studs? or originals.
I need to replace mine, but they look like a nightmare to do without removing the engine.

[BruKen]

Hi MIMbox

Cut / grind the nuts down with a angle grinder untill there is only about 3mm left and then punch off the remainder of the nut and remove the header pipes. That will leave at least 20mm of stud still protruding.




Use a sturdy stud extractor. Mine can be used either in a pneumatic impact wrench or manually. Both methods work just as well. (never be tempted to drill them out or use easy out)
I replaced them with SS Studs and plenty of copper grease.

here : http://www.thetoolacademy.com/product_d ... uctId=1702

oh look found one here to : http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65469#dtab

[Geoff D]

Bruce that engine looks good mate, how the hell you get all that done so quick  :shock:


p.s. gloss paint looks good too

[Sin_Tiger]

That's a good piece of kit to have in the arsenal and readonably priced, as if I need excuses to buy more tools  :roll:

Lookin good, getting my parts soon I hope. Fortunately I checked the water pump O-ring and all the other gaskets with Jack Lilley before ordering, they were kind enough to advise where there would be duplication which saved me a few quid. The price of the water pump was a shocker though  :shock:

[BruKen]

Mmmm. Working with a TIG welder always makes me nauseus. Doesn't help that I am full of a cold too, so today was an incomplete day cut short by an urgent call for a pm snooze while moaning to the missus about man flu and funeral arrangements. If you moan long enough even the kids will leave you alone to sleep.
I started off wanting to clean up the exhaust system which had developed some unusual patterned rust spots like acne on the baffles and to get that patina off the headers. While cleaning the baffles the weld which joins the baffles to the exhaust literally fell off both units. Seems like a flaw. Problem is now the edges had rusted through too. :(
After searching the scrap metals bin fruitlessly for something to weld over the gaps I gave up and just went all out and welded the bloody lot together by incremental layers. It's a crap way to weld but I only want to stop it blowing.

Headers to be cleaned



Baffle 1



Baffle 2




Gap filling at its worst



Embarrassment 1 and 2





Ahhh bollox to it.  They're on the underside by the rear wheel. A bit of zorst paint and no one will need to know. They certainly won't blow or break. Must have used a dozen tig filler rods.

[rybes]

mines done exactly the same mate. im thinkin of weldin em shut like you have but i have a pair of silencers i could try n use. thing is, id rather not and keep it all standard lookin. speshally as the cans i got are slightly smaller than the pipe that would go into them. hmmmm decisions decisons.
the only other thing i can add is, i dont like you, you got a tig welder :P :lol:

[ArcticTiger]

I once did that kind of welding on my tractors exhaust system, and it lasted for YEARS! Its a British made MF tractor, and a 3 cylinder too :D !

Rybes: You dont need a TIG,  a MIG welder or ever an oxy/acetylene torch will do! This is what they call "farm-tech" welding.

[BruKen]

LoL. I paid twice for my TIG. Once in money and again in a whipping from the missus. Thing is, it has and continues to pay for itself. A wonderful tool to have. For once I can say god bless China. They managed to quarter the price of a reasonable machine bringing it within range of the hobbyist. Mine is AC and DC, has pre and post flow, step down and on AC it has pulse control. It also has a built in plasma cutter and seperate mma (arc) welder all for 600 quid and a lifetime of BOC fondling your goolies. Deal!

[BruKen]

Rybes: You dont need a TIG,  a MIG welder or ever an oxy/acetylene torch will do! This is what they call "farm-tech" welding.

PMSL yes, farm tech, I can live with that. But I can weld aluminium too, that was where my troubles started tbh. So top trumps TIG  :D

[Bixxer Bob]

I have a Halfords TIG which I bought when my daughter gave me an excuse by demolishing a road sign with her Metro.  It's better than stick welding but I still find it a bit of a blunt instrument.  I never realised that MIG was within cost range and of course the ability to do aluminium is tops.  Now I have to find a way to get from where I am to where I want to be without the Missus's radar twitching... :roll:

[Sin_Tiger]

Now I have to find a way to get from where I am to where I want to be without the Missus's radar twitching... :roll:

I don't suppose working with radar and stealth aircraft for years will help you much there  :lol:

My cans corrosion pattern was very different, holed and patched half way down the can  :icon_scratch  unfortunately I can't do anything myself out here or I'd be on it like velcro.

[BruKen]

After plucking up the courage and gumption I started on the chassis this weekend. Only got 5 hours in but two things worry me....will I ever get the wiring loom back together without starting a fire and one of the brake pad retaining bolts is stuck in the caliper with a rounded hex drive... Not bad considering the state of the engine.

The begin



The end



Got a dead cat to prove a theory?





Now comes the painstakingly slow clean up and paint operations. This for me is always heartbreak hill.