Regarding Charging System Failures

[oxnsox]

Sounds like it's not charging properly...  Can you check the charge current and voltage

[cbxtc6]

After being 'bitten' by the weak charging system, I've done the following;
1. replaced stator and regulator with aftermarket (Rick's)
2. SOLDERED the connection between the two above
3. installed a nice digital voltmeter
4. keep an eye on the meter while turning on heated grips, vest, gps, etc.  If the voltage on the meter drops, I turn off an accessory or two.  
Kind of like in the Apollo 13 movie...
5. keep the battery fully charged when it's sitting via trickle charger


Finger's crossed - heading to Southern Mexico next month.

[nd4spd]

This thread is pretty old - and I hate to revive it...  However, my '05 Tiger w/ 32.5k on the clock gave me grief on a trip to Nova Scotia. Voltage output was 12.8 - 13.2.  I replaced the battery some where in New Brunswick and all seemed OK until I used heated gear and/or aux lights.  Made it home by managing the elect. demands on the bike. After reading this - I verified stator condition to be OK, I relocated the RR to under the front fairing and the Sasquatch rewire.  I realize the wires are longer, but not that much more compared to the OEM wiring harness and I used 12ga wire throughout...  All this being said - the bike won't start.  It cranks over sounds like it wants to, but does not fire.  It also seems to drain the battery pretty quick while cranking.  I can't see any connection to the relocation/rewire that would influence the starting/running of the engine other than charging.  I'm still using all the stock components - just wanted to relocate/rewire to see if that helped before going w/ new components since thay all worked just a few days ago.  Any thoughts out there....?

[nd4spd]

OK - somehow, the bike started...  I pulled the two leads from the RR that go directly to the battery just to simply isolate it from the bike - after doing so, it started.  I reinstalled the connections and the bike started - again...  WTF..??  Anyway - the initial voltage readings looked good - @ idle I have 13.5 and 14.3 @ 3500rpm.  I did let bike run until the cooling fan kicked on and checked voltage - dropped to 12.9 w/ fans and aux lights.  Funny thing is - the bike would not restart when it was hot.  I let it cool down and it's fine...  Always something...

[Fe Man]

So I'm installing my Rick's stator and never thought about getting a gasket and the original ripped when removing the cover. Will some sort or RTV sealer suffice or do I need to get the gasket.

Also, what is the sealer that seals the opening where the wires come out?

[Fe Man]

No burnt connectors, No blown fuses!

Well my GDMF regulator tests OK,
The stator appeared to be sending out less than required AC voltage so I ordered a stator from Rick's and installed it and I still have a GDMF'ing charging problem.

That was $150 I didn't have to spend and now I guess I have to order a GDMF'ng regulator/rectifier which is another $150.

Looks like it the bicycle for me until I can save up some money!

[oxnsox]

OK - somehow, the bike started...  I pulled the two leads from the RR that go directly to the battery just to simply isolate it from the bike - after doing so, it started.  I reinstalled the connections and the bike started - again...  WTF..??  Anyway - the initial voltage readings looked good - @ idle I have 13.5 and 14.3 @ 3500rpm.  I did let bike run until the cooling fan kicked on and checked voltage - dropped to 12.9 w/ fans and aux lights.  Funny thing is - the bike would not restart when it was hot.  I let it cool down and it's fine...  Always something...

Going with the theavier wire is good.  Maybe the issue you had/have is in pinching your new cables, or the earth connections.
Check em all (if you haven't already).

[TigerTrax]

My advice.
Use heavy ga wire; Solder your connections.

BTW:
After I did the Sasquatch re-wire my volmeter is consistently 14.3 -14.5v;
Drops to 13.5 at idle; Sets at 14.3 with heated grips on full; drops to 13.8 with aux lites on ( PS will eliminate them with new HID lights ); I have not tried Gerbings yet but I suspect it will be 13.8v).

The Sasquatch re-wire is a credible move..... PAY ATTENTION TO WHAT YOU ARE DOING !

[iansoady]

My advice.
Use heavy ga wire; Solder your connections.

You'll get the crimp police after you.....

[Mustang]

[Fe Man]

No burnt connectors, No blown fuses!

Well my GDMF regulator tests OK,
The stator appeared to be sending out less than required AC voltage so I ordered a stator from Rick's and installed it and I still have a GDMF'ing charging problem.

That was $150 I didn't have to spend and now I guess I have to order a GDMF'ng regulator/rectifier which is another $150.

Looks like it the bicycle for me until I can save up some money!

Apparently I incorrectly measured/diagnosed the stator and replaced a good part; so it must be the regulator/rectifier. Ordered and installed and I still have a charging system failure.

New stator, new rectifier/regulator, new battery and still no charging....
What do you do after everything has been replaced?

[walker]

you trace the circuit with an ohm meter.... pull the fuses and check for continuity...

[walker]

You'll get the crimp police after you.....

and the crimp police don't ride my bike.... I've had poorly crimped connections heat up and cause problems, but never my soldered connection.  :D

I have only owned one crimper that can crimp a connector well enough to not need solder.... the frame is $90, and the dies I have range from $45 up to $190 per die (WIHA brand). Every other "professional grade ratcheting crimper" left enough space in the crimp to allow solder through. The WIHA won't.

I use solder to fill in the small air spaces, sort of like using solder to "sweat" a copper pipe. It's just filler where less expensive crimpers are used. The crimp is the main part of the connection - and a GOOD quality heat shrink tube will provide strain relief. Use the proper flux as well.

If you're joining wires, or doing surface mount soldering, that's different.... here it's just a filler. And a good crimper can fix that.

Always check your work - a good idea (either crimped or crimped and soldered) - with the bike running - does the positive side get warm? hot? is the fuse holder hot? Try crimping down again. Still hot? then try a small amount of solder.

Anyone looked at those inline 12V circuit breakers yet? They use them in boating / marine applications. Uses a termina lug, not a crappy blade connector.... would probably help to reduce overall resistance, and you don't have a fuse holder over heating.

The new kit here comes with them now... no more fuse holders.

http://www.roadstercycle.com/Shindengen ... %20kit.htm

[oxnsox]

Whether you crimp or solder (or don't trust yourself and do both), the long term result depends upon using the right tools, the right parts, and doing it right.

As for in-line type breakers, I use items from these guys http://www.e-t-a.com/us_thermal+M55e7bca3d7c.html a lot. They have a great range, but these types I use most often. They're not cheap but they're compact and reliable enough to put into boats that race around the world

[Rapier]

Has anyone investigated using something like:
CB223 ATC Style Breakers
12 Volt, Type III (manual reset) in 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 amp ratings. Designed to fit the ATC fuse footprint, these circuit breakers comply with
SAE standard J553.

http://www1.cooperbussmann.com/6/BladeF ... ories.html